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Ed, Talking to a chap in our street with an M registered Stag and he said he lifted the Rad header tank higher to give the water pump a head of water. I will see if I can blag a picture of what he did. They were known for overheating and warped heads, perhaps for that reason. Some whipped the engine out and put the SD1 3.5 in it, without the Stag problems. Interesting to see how you get on. I assume its a retirement hobby? Brother has a 1934 Daimler 15, 2ltr straight 6 he is restoring, engine sounds lovely , especially when he opens the straight through flap on the exhaust. Starts first time as well. Spares are like hens teeth and cost a fortune if you find anything , but with a bit of African Ingenuity you can use something else. Found a wiper motor off something more modern and replaced original that fell apart when opened up, wire and comm segments everywhere. Its handy if you have a lathe, metal bending machine, sewing machine, and Mig, Tig and Stick welding machines and can use them all. Rewired, changed the trembler regulator to a solid state one that fits in the same box, if your interested I can find info on the one man band that does them, he had a 1930's Austin big 7 converted that way as well. He also found a place that stick& bakes on linings to brake shoes, that's up in Malton Yorkshire. His problem is trying to get it registered with DVLA, they keep asking for a Vin number, muppets! One headlight was for dipping by using a complicated solenoid to move the reflector down, the other headlight went dark, he's changing them to two lamps in the reflectors, luckily the reflectors are chromed brass not plastic like today, glass lens as well. Look forward to hearing your progress and problems.

Could it be a loose backing plate?

Sorry to hear this John. eBay are very good at supporting buyers. Hope you persevere. How are you finding the A3?

Fantastic news, thanks for updating us 🙂 glad fitment was straightforward

Thanks Steve 👍

Have you tried eBay?

The S-Line variants (in all models) tend to be a harder ride so allowing for sharper driving and cornering. Other variants including Sport are softer. The other main differences are in the looks, trim, wheels and seats, where the S-Line (in my opinion) look far better and upmarket. The seats are also much better and supportive. That said, all models come with driver modes where you can chose, Sport, Comfort etc settings so the differences in driving experiences may be minimal. I'd recommend checking option packs etc included in any used cars you view as these may prove more relevant to your needs. FYI - I bought a 2020 Q5 S-Line Competition last year and it's a brilliant smooth, quiet and comfortable drive with option to switch to Sport mode for more 'exciting' driving when needed. Hope this helps. M.

Need one of the above urgently if anyone can help please Thanks

Don't think wobble bolts would work as I think you have too much of a change (5x100 to 5x112), thought they're only good for about 2mm variance so a 5x98 to 5x100 for example.

how is it entering the cars interior though?

How would your car be out of your sight?

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Yup, did that a few months ago. Much better.

Bought myself one of these, 2.0 (150ps) a few months ago, and I think they're quite nice. It's not a real electric motor like on an hybrid, it's inside the starter motor/alternator and does indeed gives a nice boost. It's at its best during traffic jams. They've improved on that for 2025+ onwards. It becomes MHEV plus.

Wise words. Too many scum staging crashes for fraudulent insurance claims.

I have just changed the coolant flange on my B7 1.8t BFB. Now when starting very high idle speed and then misfiring. When switched off sounds as if catalyst has overheated. Loud clicking sounds as it cools. Can't find any loose or missed connections. Anyone got any ideas?

Please do.

Watch this video from SPR autos in Manchester. They are Mercedes specialists, but I think this illustrates the issue with air con generally, regas being seen as a fix by some and Halfords which just don’t cut it, you name it. It’s a complicated bit of kit. A bubble test is just that, spray on and observe. Plus if you go for nitrogen test (they charge £40), then ideally it could be on for a couple of hours to see if pressure drops. Condenser is a good shout. It’s taking brunt of rain and wind and general debris. Any leak on the reverse you won’t see. And if garage just check for 20 mins, then it won’t reveal true cause. Pressure sensor, genuine is also a good shout. On Audi B8 it’s fairly accessible. SPR made tear mistake and had to strip it down again. Would be useful to pull codes on the car. Search out specialist with real world reviews. Unfortunately these things are never cheap. https://mercedescarservicing.co.uk/youtube/

There we are then!

Thanks Dan, So you will offer Agreed value cover ( with mileage restrictions?) for less than 20 year old ‘daily drivers’ -?

If the boot is open, then the car will not shut down, and so any readings you take will be meaningless. As I said, car can take in excess of 30 mins to go to sleep. Use light insulated cables to set up fly leads off the battery, then close the boot lid. Measure current draw once car has been locked and left for 30 mins. My view is that you would be wise to now engage the services of a local mobile auto electrician, before something goes wrong.

Hello Irvine I was wondering if you still have the Luggage Slide Bar for sale? Regards Andrew

Thank you!

The make of the battery may give a clue as to whether it is a replacement or not.

When you bought this car in June 2024 ( when it was 5 years old), did you obtain a copy of its service history ( should be available from your nearest dealer)? Did you buy it from an Audi dealership, and did you purchase an extended warranty from the seller - which would account for your reference to a 7 year warranty on the alternator? Who told you there was a 7 year warranty on the alternator?