Latest Posts

That's a catch 22, I'd say a keeper but I sead that about the s5 hahaha, think once iv done all I need to her I will keep her and possibly ger a stag engine and box and rebuild that and put that in I'm not sure at the moment, also thinking of another audi but q7 4.2 but it's time to work on them as work nights so sat basically rest day and Sunday is catch up day

Could it be an issue with a seizing brake caliper or issue with a driveshaft?

Great stuff 👍 🙂

Glad you got sorted 🙂

Strange question to ask, but I got a strange answer at the dealer. Do these models have a sump dipstick for oil level and do they have a sump drain plug for when you change your oil? I asked the question about the drain plug, and the answer that came back was, ' If you vacuum it out, you know how much to put back'. No you get the engine hot, put the car on ramps on a slope, release the sump plug and with the rush of oil it scours any sludge or metals out. leaving a relatively clean sump. Using a suction pump, you leave sludge , metal and residue in there. As far as how much you refill it with, it should be in the handbook in the glove box and you refil to a litre short then move it onto level ground, add the remaining, checking the dipstick. Then run the engine and check for leaks, then check the following day before starting when cold. Check weekly or monthly along with other levels and tyre pressures. Do you have to fit an Audi oil filter and pay their mark up? Can you use Castrol EDGE 0W-20 LL IV or Shell equivalent ? Not some badged up marked up Audi oil, that they have made for them in some back street of Hamburg. What is the oil change /Service interval 12k as usual? Thank you in advance.

I guess it's a case of keep searching eBay to be honest

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

So I recently got the p261A code with an engine light aswell, I changed the b coolant pump and when I clear the codes the engine light comes back after 3 or so turn offs. Any solutions?

Thanks for your comments, Steve. The A3 is great and seems just as fast as my old 3.0 TDI A4 despite having only 148 bhp. It's automatic and S-Line, so sharper, flatter handling but still a pleasant ride (at least with the Comfort setting). Very quiet, relaxed and economical: it did 67 mpg on a 200 mile trip last week. Nice to have SatNav at last and also good to have my 2231 MP3 tracks on a tiny flash drive which sticks out only an inch from the USB-C socket. Not missing the Quattro so far but probably a different story when we get snow. ___________________________________________ Magnet, please keep the thread open until I advise sale or disposal of the car. Thanks, John

Fantastic news, thanks for updating us 🙂 glad fitment was straightforward

Thanks Steve 👍

The S-Line variants (in all models) tend to be a harder ride so allowing for sharper driving and cornering. Other variants including Sport are softer. The other main differences are in the looks, trim, wheels and seats, where the S-Line (in my opinion) look far better and upmarket. The seats are also much better and supportive. That said, all models come with driver modes where you can chose, Sport, Comfort etc settings so the differences in driving experiences may be minimal. I'd recommend checking option packs etc included in any used cars you view as these may prove more relevant to your needs. FYI - I bought a 2020 Q5 S-Line Competition last year and it's a brilliant smooth, quiet and comfortable drive with option to switch to Sport mode for more 'exciting' driving when needed. Hope this helps. M.

Need one of the above urgently if anyone can help please Thanks

Don't think wobble bolts would work as I think you have too much of a change (5x100 to 5x112), thought they're only good for about 2mm variance so a 5x98 to 5x100 for example.

how is it entering the cars interior though?

How would your car be out of your sight?

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Yup, did that a few months ago. Much better.

Bought myself one of these, 2.0 (150ps) a few months ago, and I think they're quite nice. It's not a real electric motor like on an hybrid, it's inside the starter motor/alternator and does indeed gives a nice boost. It's at its best during traffic jams. They've improved on that for 2025+ onwards. It becomes MHEV plus.

Wise words. Too many scum staging crashes for fraudulent insurance claims.

I have just changed the coolant flange on my B7 1.8t BFB. Now when starting very high idle speed and then misfiring. When switched off sounds as if catalyst has overheated. Loud clicking sounds as it cools. Can't find any loose or missed connections. Anyone got any ideas?

Please do.

Watch this video from SPR autos in Manchester. They are Mercedes specialists, but I think this illustrates the issue with air con generally, regas being seen as a fix by some and Halfords which just don’t cut it, you name it. It’s a complicated bit of kit. A bubble test is just that, spray on and observe. Plus if you go for nitrogen test (they charge £40), then ideally it could be on for a couple of hours to see if pressure drops. Condenser is a good shout. It’s taking brunt of rain and wind and general debris. Any leak on the reverse you won’t see. And if garage just check for 20 mins, then it won’t reveal true cause. Pressure sensor, genuine is also a good shout. On Audi B8 it’s fairly accessible. SPR made tear mistake and had to strip it down again. Would be useful to pull codes on the car. Search out specialist with real world reviews. Unfortunately these things are never cheap. https://mercedescarservicing.co.uk/youtube/

There we are then!

Thanks Dan, So you will offer Agreed value cover ( with mileage restrictions?) for less than 20 year old ‘daily drivers’ -?