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I have just changed the coolant flange on my B7 1.8t BFB. Now when starting very high idle speed and then misfiring. When switched off sounds as if catalyst has overheated. Loud clicking sounds as it cools. Can't find any loose or missed connections. Anyone got any ideas?

Welcome Adrian, Sounds very nice. If we can help you at any time, we will. Enjoy. Regards, Gareth.

Please do.

Re the Latvian hose order, it was confirmed as “Standard Delivery by post from outside UK, untracked”. I have thought all along that this was suspicious. I messaged the supplier via eBay yesterday, asking precisely when the hose was despatched and how much longer they think I should wait. I got a quick response (not the one I wanted!) as follows: “Thank you for contacting us! Please accept our apologies for the inconvenience caused. Since the item was sent without tracking options we may not file an official claim to post, unfortunately. The full amount will be refunded to your card. It may take a few business days for it to appear on your statement. If it takes longer than 5 business days, please contact your card issuer directly. Please feel free to contact us at any time in the future if you need our assistance, we will be happy to help you.” They didn’t answer my questions so I sent a further message, asking them to do so. However, in the meantime I received an email advising that a full refund was on the way and I should get it in 3/5 days. In fact 15 minutes later the money was refunded, via eBay, to my linked bank account. So I can now assume I will get no further reply from the supplier. Interestingly their relevant eBay page now states “ENDED” in red and no stock is shown; until recently it was showing 6. I suspect that, just like the London one which let me down, this is another trader showing stock that doesn’t exist and getting caught out by the recent Audi delisting of the part when they tried to order it. To save face, they probably advised it was despatched, knowing full well they would have to refund me in due course. I looked at "Viper Performance" but noted the following: “ONE OFF CUSTOM SILICONE HOSES - PRIVATE USE: One off silicone hoses and custom made silicone hoses are generally not cost effective for private clients, personal cars, classic period cars or re-making obsolete hoses. This is because stainless steel tooling is required for each hose. Tooling per hose can easily cost in excess of £350+.” I have posted a request on www.breakeryard.com to see if that produces anything. However, I suspect I have nearly reached the end of the road and the car will probably go to a charity (free collection, then auction) but perhaps not be scrapped. I’ll be glad to reach the end of this sorry saga!

Edward, I see the skill of rebuilding engines has not died then, used to do this when I first started driving. I presume your one of my generation or near. Keep up the good work. Did the engine come out the bonnet or drop through the bottom, plus it will be a big lump as well, being a 4.2. I saw a 4 litre Vauxhall the other day, straight 4 with decompression !Removed! for hand starting. Looked a very simple engine but another big lump. Open all !Removed!, swing her tound on the handle , then get an assistant to shut 2&3 !Removed! and it will fire , then shut the other two. 1920, chap was taking it down to Le Mans from Berkshire. No front brakes , just rear rod brakes or drive it in the ditch for plan B.

Watch this video from SPR autos in Manchester. They are Mercedes specialists, but I think this illustrates the issue with air con generally, regas being seen as a fix by some and Halfords which just don’t cut it, you name it. It’s a complicated bit of kit. A bubble test is just that, spray on and observe. Plus if you go for nitrogen test (they charge £40), then ideally it could be on for a couple of hours to see if pressure drops. Condenser is a good shout. It’s taking brunt of rain and wind and general debris. Any leak on the reverse you won’t see. And if garage just check for 20 mins, then it won’t reveal true cause. Pressure sensor, genuine is also a good shout. On Audi B8 it’s fairly accessible. SPR made tear mistake and had to strip it down again. Would be useful to pull codes on the car. Search out specialist with real world reviews. Unfortunately these things are never cheap. https://mercedescarservicing.co.uk/youtube/

There we are then!

Thanks Dan, So you will offer Agreed value cover ( with mileage restrictions?) for less than 20 year old ‘daily drivers’ -?

If you think EBay is a clown’s playground, try Gumtree! The best of them hide there.

Put it down to experience and move them on. Any work to make them fit is a compromise. On the positive side, if genuine and refurbished, that’s half the battle.

If the boot is open, then the car will not shut down, and so any readings you take will be meaningless. As I said, car can take in excess of 30 mins to go to sleep. Use light insulated cables to set up fly leads off the battery, then close the boot lid. Measure current draw once car has been locked and left for 30 mins. My view is that you would be wise to now engage the services of a local mobile auto electrician, before something goes wrong.

Hello Irvine I was wondering if you still have the Luggage Slide Bar for sale? Regards Andrew

Thank you!

The make of the battery may give a clue as to whether it is a replacement or not.

When you bought this car in June 2024 ( when it was 5 years old), did you obtain a copy of its service history ( should be available from your nearest dealer)? Did you buy it from an Audi dealership, and did you purchase an extended warranty from the seller - which would account for your reference to a 7 year warranty on the alternator? Who told you there was a 7 year warranty on the alternator?

Good afternoon all. Does anyone know where I can get a set of floor mat for my A3 S Line. I want to keep my car as original as I can. The floor mats have the S Line monogram on the side, with red piping,as in the picture. 2010 year. Thanks.

Blinking heck Colin, the detail is dribbling through like a dripping tap! As has been said, low profile (35) tyres will give you, and the car’s suspension, a hard ride/time. Are these 35 profile tyres XL or not? It’s now for the sake of asking again, but what was the profile on your 17 inch wheels, and were they XL or not?

Hi there guys i have a 2007 audi a4 b7 avant whith a very faded and nasty 4 spoke steering wheel. Im looking to retrofit a newer cleaner one. Im just wondering what my options are. I have seen people install roundbottom steering wheels from TTRS and RS4s. But they are very pricey. I like the steering wheels in audi a6 c7s. Im wondering if there is anyone out there who could walk me through what kind of wheels would be compatible with my a4. I'm looking to get something from a scrap yard, potentially. Any help greatly appreciated. Hugh

The sourcing of low quality parts by manufacturers, and subsequent rebranding as OEM, has been mentioned a couple of times on this forum. I forget specifically who it was.

Hi magnet & steve Thanks for your responses. So the car stopped starting thursday last week. No issues before hand, i got the car lifted to the garage that weekend. The did an inspection and a diagnostic and found the starter wasnt engaging and the brushes had worn out. On the diagnostic report it had the code B200047 show up. They changed the starter over and it starts up fine. However the fault code is still showing and the steering has become heavy. They recommend the module change. I haven't had the car since its been in the garage. But before that it was regularly used and i had no noticable steering issues. I agree i don't want to throw good money at it if it can be resolved by a software update. Or sending the module for repair and putting it back on the car. The garage say its just the module thats the issue. I can share the diagnostic report if that will help. Really do appreciate the replys and suggestions.

Any update?

Any answers Jon?

If the car is still under warranty it's probably worth having it in at Audi for a diagnostic check.

Are you talking about two different models here? The 50TDI is not the same as the 40TDI there has always been a software patch for the 50TDI in fact it was known to be worse until this patch for the auto boxes. The 40TDI is a manual dual clutch with automatic selector. This issue is still very much prevalent and has been no ECU/Drivetrain software updates specifically for hesitation on pull away (least I’m aware of?).