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Hi all just brought a 1999 Audi a3 8l with 50.000 on the clock runs beautiful sometimes but idles up to 15.000 rpm other times

Audi A4 Engine codes ProxyParts.com https://www.proxyparts.com › ... › Engine code finder Engine code AKE ; Audi A4. 2001. 2,496 cc, 2,500 cc. 2002. 2,496 cc, 2,500 cc. 2003. 2,496 cc, 2,500 cc. 2005. 2,500 cc. 2008. 2,500 cc ; Audi A6. 2000. 2,496 cc. ‎000000 · ‎AFN · ‎AHU · ‎AKE

Thanks for the links Kev. Annoyingly last week I discovered from my mechanic that if I buy any 2.5tdi engine and keep my current injection pump and ECU the car will think the replacement engine is the original and will run. Wish I'd known that a year ago instead of worrying about coding of injection pumps and imobilisers etc. So my simplest option is to find a bau version of the 2.5tdi as this was the last variation of that engine and most refined in theory. Trying to find one with low miles and proven service history, but naturally this is proving difficult.

Christian. I will not download or open links to unexplained software from total strangers, so would you care to put a precis of this business plan into words please, so that we can decide whether you are spamming the forum? In particular please specify whether money changes hands and who profits from such payments, and what personal data you require from participants.

Pic 1 for sure

Very good point on age Steve. Kind regards, Gareth.

I'd suspect it's a one piece. I'd recommend looking on eBay for A5 door trim.

From looking online this spec is very rare. I'd estimate it's worth between 2-3k.

Glad you’re sorted. I don’t think I can agree on the quality being better on the smaller cars in the range. I’ve had pretty much every size of car in the VAG group and it is pretty much pot luck as per other manufacturers. The current A6 seems to be pretty good quality wise. A split seal is just random poor luck and not really that serious, more annoying on a relatively new car.

hi, had my gearbox rebuilt on my quattro. its not driving right been told it is the emc module not sinking with the gearbox.is there any one know of any i t companies out there how can sort this out. thanks.🤪

Sounds good Pete, I guess you can moderate your asking price in relation to what you paid for it 3 1/2 years ago, unless you bought it with a view to making a profit on it - and that’s fine too. If you want your space back, I would suggest you list it on EBay with a starting price of what you paid for it, and see how it runs from there. Good luck with finding it a good home. Kind regards, Gareth.

Make a note of the code but clear it and see if it comes back over the next week. You have 30 days from the day of sake for a full refund or for the garage to fix it FOC if there's an issue.

I have bitten the bullet and ordered a spare starter/generator for £1100 which is going to sit on my shelf so at least when it goes again there is no delay. i just need to agree with Audi that they reimburse me when I need to have it fitted under the warranty extn.

Hello Jennifer, Pending finding a permanent solution, follow jdragon’s advice above. Kind regards, Gareth.

Just to say that I bought a space saver 19" wheel from The Wheel Shop along. As Stevey noted above, I then stuck several sections of polystyrene using gaffer tape (pic 1) to support the wheel and keep it off the battery cables to the left and right. Enough space underneath the wheel to store the compressor and tyre repair bottle (pic 2) (just in case). This raised the spare wheel but there was still just enough thread available on the centre to allow me to use the normal large plastic nut to hold the spare in place (pic 3). Although the spare was a little higher than normal due to the polystyrene, there's still enough space to allow the top cover to sit flat in the boot. Lastly the tools including jack fit in the plastic tray (pic 4) between the battery and the back of the rear seats (blue towel round them to stop rattling).

Turns out the Haynes book threw me a red herring on the ACE engine the mid shaft only runs the oil pump, therefore no need to have a timing point on the cog. I found this out after rotating it with my hot wire rig setup but nothing was happening and the wires to the coil from my golf were getting hot. I even took off the distributor cap and sure enough the arm was not moving. Even I found another string on the net that has a sketch of a hole by the bell housing that should show a timing mark, however that was not moving. Then I went back to Haynes and looked up distributor where I found, I quote “ACE and AAR engines, the distributor is located on the right hand of the engine and is driven off the rear of the camshaft. After finding out my cam belt was 2 teeth out, I put all back together again, indecently the distributor cap had a mount bolt loose, that would not help. I manually cranked the engine over, no issues. Started on the button idled fine up to 60 degrees where the engine started to search again, but not as bad as before. I just instinctively unplugged the isv and she purred like a cat at just over 1k and was rock solid, plugged isv back in and the searching came back, new one on order. I turned off the car, and waited 5 minutes but she would not fire up. Back to Haynes for inspiration and eventually I found a problem that I feel is the root cause,…. The connector on the loom to Part OEM 034919369C has been wired wrongly, not only that somebody tried to correct the fault by forcing the two parts upside down and the new connector is also broken. I have found a you tube person who prints new ones as the connector is no longer available. 3-pin connector 893971974. Has anyone got a wiring diagram for the correct wires to locations they could show to me so I can get this faux pas sorted out. I feel close to getting this car running the way she should again, what an interesting day I have had.

I thought about cambelt and water pump change as they need doing every 50000, I believe they have a cam chain rather than a rubber belt. Price has since been dropped by £500 as well. I've checked out mot history and its been clear each time with no advisory's.

Hi I would definitely get some body in that line of work to look at it and tell you realtime what's been done, never been a fan of mapping as half the clowns out there have no idea what they are doing or what the long term implications of their work is, are you still getting codes? Steve.

A. See my reply to your other query.

A(nonymous). Given that this thread is over seven years old it is unlikely you will get a response from the originator. Nevertheless there are some useful suggestions in it. Have you tried any of them?

Hi guys. I'm having very similar issues to you all. Only my fault codes do not go away, they cant be reset. I'm currently trickle charging the battery to full, but it sounds like mine too could be a wiring fault. Has anyone got a better description and maybe photos of where their damaged wires were? Cheers Jamie

Perhaps you could update us on the definitive answer from the Parts. Dept. of your local main dealer Bill. Kind regards, Gareth.

Did you find out how to remove the center console in the end?

Yes I had a lot of trouble trying to get the service history off them. They kept saying they couldn’t get hold of it as they were not the registered keeper Will follow your advice for future purchases. Thanks again.

Hi it is most likely the camera under the windscreen failing they are very sensitive to heat/cold and living with it verses the cost of replacement is a no brainer. Steve.