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Since I had a cambelt snap my 16V Bosch KE-Motronic injection ACE engine has been down on power and is unable to idle correctly and start with a warm engine. When my mechanic rebuilt the top end of the engine and put on the cambelt he told me that he could not see a point in the intermediate shaft sprocket, as the Haynes book has a photo of it. The car cold starts on the button, idles nicely until it gets to about 60 degrees where the engine note changes from an advance spark to one that is knocked back and at this point is stops the ability to idle. I have taken apart and serviced the TPS and that drops down to 2 ohms resistance reliably now, and I resealed it by welding the plastic casing with a hot knife. So I can now discount the TPS as a problem and the diagnostics does not flag this any longer. Since the rebuild of the top end of the engine I am getting a Crank case sensor error, even tho this model does not have such a device. Before the belt, travelling at 65 I could put my foot down and receive an instant surge of power from the 140 horses, since the rebuild it no longer surges the horses. I know from my basic golf mk2 that when I do a cambelt change, I can do a static timing check with a gunson timing gun by having the ignition on and rotating the distributor, before fireing up, then proceed with the secondary tune up with the engine running and the vacuum hose detached from the distributor. This got me thinking "how can I do a static setup with the Bosch KE-Motronic?" My thinking is as follows: Unplug the battery from the car Clamp the top camshaft sproket in place, as it is correct Clamp the lower crankshaft in place take off the cambelt get hold of a golf coil I have lying around that is good and hot wire it to the battery Connect the main ht lead to the hot-wired coil Plug in the Gunson strobe attach the hall sender of the strobe on HT1 rotate the intermediate shaft clockwise until I get a strobe flash reconnect the cambelt The KE-Motronic should them self regulate. I look forward to anything anyone else could add to this, as it is a technical experiment that I have thought up.

I have been getting this error message recently and can't find anywhere anything about it. I have spoken to Audi and they say it's probably nothing to worry about but obviously had no idea what it actually means or what is causing it. It comes on approx two mins after driving. Any idea what this is and how to fix it?

Does anyone have a copy of the fitting instructions for front (81A.075.111) and rear (81A.075.101) mud flaps ? (bought a set online but no instructions were provided, and I contacted Audi customer services but they just directed me to Erwin)

There is no way to check for wear without dismantling the engine, by which point one might as well change the belt anyway. The labour cost of that work is why it so expensive, and also why it is prefeable to change the water pump at the same time. Whether you have a belt or a chain can only be determined by reference to the engine number or VIN as Magnet suggested.

Hi I have just bought a salvage Audi a6 2016 I need a key fob for it dose it have to go to the mail dealer or can it be done by a lock smith I have been told they have got a encrypted immobiliser so is it only the main dealer what can do this for me

Hey, i got an audi a6 c6 allroad half year ago. Recently it started to make clunking sound, which comes from the back. I asked some passenger to listen where does it come from, all of them said that it is coming from inside the car 😀 i think i found the fault part but i am not sure how to fix and did not find any info online. So i think the rear passenger side strut tower support went bad. Now how to change it? Do i need to depressurise the system? I will be taking out the shock to change the strut tower. How does it go? Thanks for info

Hi 👋 all Having trouble the last few weeks with an intermittent fault code 00814 Brake Pressure magnetic coil, recently changed the brake fluid and full brakes pads & discs ( dot 4) all fine until after 6-7 weeks whilst leaving the supermarket the brakes started locking on , the ABS & ESP light came on as well as "RHL speed sensor fault" so when I got home I ordered the speed sensor as it wasn't recognised on the OBDELEVEN, anyway I've changed this after 3 days and used the car locally In between and another fault ( 00814) has been logged ?? The ABS & new speed sensor are fine and codes cleared, I've heard horror stories regarding the brake servo being replaced however its not always solved the problem ?? Its not the bearing and reluctor ring inside as it records the vehicle speed on each wheel , I'm wondering if the brake fluid which was to the top of the cap 🤔 was overfilled at the garage on service and possibly caused damage , however the brake pressure sensor is working as it records 0.64 bar when normal then over 140.00 bar when I depressed the brake pedal ! Any help 🙏??? Please

Hello Christian, I’ve declined to comment until now, but I too find room for concerns with your overall maste (sic) plan. I may have got the wrong end of the stick here, but doesn’t this boil down to ‘ …. give me your details and I will then reveal my Master Plan! Being realistic about it, I think it’s highly unlikely that many members will have a contra view to that already expressed by Alpha Omega, and will feel - rightly or wrongly - that they are leaving themselves too wide open to the potential of being spammed. In an attempt to minimise that risk, perhaps you could let us have some detail of your background Christian, and successes you have had with other forums you have approached to date. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

I went from a 5.5L V8 MB E500(which I owned for 12 years) to my 2017 petrol SQ5 and I love driving it.

Hey, Im wondering if someone could help / give me some advice and guidance on my issue I seem to be having. Long story cut short; I’ve picked up a A5 2008 2.7tdi; 145k miles. It was fine and one morning there was a hesitation when setting off. I’ve plugged my code reader in and it’s given me the following code: P219500 - O2 signal sensor stuck lean bank 1 sensor 1. I’ve done the following to try and resolve this issue: - Replaced O2 sensor and done adaptation - Replaced MAF and done adaption - Smoke test - Checked fuel injectors Its all coming back fine. The car has had a DPF Delete (before my ownership) and feels like it’s been remapped. Does anyone have any ideas on what could be causing this problem?

Hi Natasha and welcome, this forum has a lot of info on Q7 ownership and its pitfalls as well as solutions to those pitfalls. Steve.

Hi Rob, yes its the cover thats behind the mirror if you pull it off its under there its attached to the screen by some sort of metal spring holder it also acts as a humidity sensor for the climate control the other problem sensor is the fresh air one which hangs inside the air intake box under the front scuttle where the window wiper is front left as you sit in car, I just used to clean that in alcohol and it would start working again. Steve.

Sorry to hear this yet again but not surprising. Starter / generators are now on back order so that shows Audi have a world wide problem and do not have the spares, so looks like you could be off the road for a few months. In my case I made enough fuss , although my car was out of warranty, to get Audi to pay the roadside recovery charges and provide a courtesy car until the car was repaired. My current situation is that although Audi acknowledge this failure puts driver and passengers into a dangerous situation they will not commit to a recall or software upgrade. In their view these cars are ‘old’ and the tech dept is working on stuff for 5-10 years time not messing about with old stuff so we are on our own. I am still negotiating compensation but they will not warranty this part for parts, labour, recovery and courtesy car for 10 years as a special deal. They may be able to offer extended warranty free. So I am thinking I will order a spare alternator and have it sitting in my garage, take the extended warranty and get breakdown cover so then I can be sure of getting assistance and repair.

Thanks for input guys - just to follow up - GF took car to garage and the guy there managed to glug in another 2 litres or so (same container, same spout) - he thinks it's now full and the warning msg has cleared itself. She even took a video which showed him doing the same as me ?! So I'm left almost as confused as when I started - although around 4/5 litres for 4,000 miles sounds about right. Maybe it was an airlock in the tank that needs a bit of driving to clear it ? So far the worst of it is a slightly bruised ego - which is a lot cheaper than a sensor replacement I guess ! cheers

Hi We have just bought a 2007 a4 convertable but no user manual Can anyone help how to set up the nav and telephone system or know where I can get a manual. They only do online manuals from 2008 Thanks

This is very odd.

Glad you got sorted 🙂

Please do 🙂

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 air suspension problems are well documented and can be costly to repair

Hello everyone, if I could welcome myself, my name is Patrick & I am new to the forums, but have owned my 1989 B3 model 2.2 E (2226 cc) coupe for around 4 years now, which I love I am needing now to do some work on the car & was hoping to pick your brains & use your knowledge & experience along the way as I restore my car, according to my owners book it says it is a 8B3 014 100kw engine no beginning with the letters KV, can anyone tell me what would be the injection system used on this car I.e. Jetronic, KE ketronic etc. My first drama is I may have to replace the fuse board as it’s looking like there is corrosion inside between the fuel pump relay & fuse as a result of water in the fuse box due to a faulty screen rubber, the car starts then dies, then doesn’t start for a while then starts, fuel pump is new & I was told it’s possibly the relay, I am currently trying to source a new relay, but the part I’m told I need is 443907385F which seems to be hard to find, but failing that I have a spare fuse board, which has a relay no 208 & I am led to believe that is the relay for the fuel pump on this board, but the boards have very different serial numbers underneath, am I correct in thinking the sore board is from a B4 coupe where as mine is a B3 coupe. The numbers on the board in the car which is a B3 model are as follows 896113 SHO 443941822A the replacement board I believe is from a 2.3E & possibly a B4 model & the numbers are as follows 996051 SHO 443941822B would this be a straight swap or are they very different, apologies for my ignorance & thank you in advance patrick

I have owned this for about 3-4 years, bought it from my elderly neighbour who couldn’t drive anymore and garaged it for about 8 years, previously owned by his son.

Hi Magnet, Thanks for commenting. I had to drive my car today 70 miles the noise was not apparent ongoing but just when turning on the engine and going slower. I know the belt is tighter because pre garage visit- I took off the casing to see the cam belt - I wiggled it and it was more loose. On hearing the change in sound - rechecked under the casing and the cam belt is definitely tighter. I asked the garage after changing the bolts if my cam belt was OK and they did not say they had done anything to it. The independent garage specialise in audi and use genuine parts. They seem to have a good rep. The water pump is on the opposite side on my 1.4 petrol engine I am told. I am thinking of going back tomorrow to ask them about it. (Noise).

Hi all, Unfortunately, I'm adding to this post as my 2018 1.4 TFSi Q3 has suffered the same issue as you've all mentioned with fuel rail. I spoke to the Audi dealer which is fixing the car at present and they have quoted me £140 for diagnostic and a further £220 labor to remove the manifold to get to the leak so in total £360 before anything has been fixed! Has anyone come up against similar costs with Audi? Goodness knows how much more they're going to charge for the fixing and parts! I will be approaching Audi UK tomorrow with this thread to hand as evidence of recurring issue to try and get them involved while my car is in their workshop. If anyone has had the issue diagnosed and repaired with Audi please let me know because that will bolster the whole argument that this issue is not a one off and they cannot keep ignoring it. Many thanks all,

Hi I have replaced valeo heater matrix radiator under but I still have coolant leak and it dripping in the front in the middle between cooling fans and engine but I have no clue where from even if I checked with lamp ..

It's not as tragic as you think, and this is said by someone who grew up on an Audi 80 :) As for the sensor, I've recently put over 160 Euros into it, but I'm satisfied. Lately some plastic components small literally, it's my colleague on the 3D printer embrace and they work. I've heard that they are slowly making ones in metal and steel too, you just need to have a good schematic, so old books and manuals come in handy.