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Much appreciated, everyone!

Yes I had a lot of trouble trying to get the service history off them. They kept saying they couldn’t get hold of it as they were not the registered keeper Will follow your advice for future purchases. Thanks again.

Sounds like a longer term good move Fi. Could I reinforce the procedure I go through before viewing:- Check the on-line MOT history. Check the DVLA vehicle check to see when the latest V5 was issued. Can give you some idea of last change of owner. Ask the seller to e-mail copy of the Audi on-line service history and/or any servicing receipts. If you have opposition in any respect - start twitching! At the same time as requesting this off the seller, ask your local dealer if they would outline ( and ideally provide copy) the service record they have on the Audi system. All this can be done from the comfort of your arm chair, and will form the backbone of sound research before you decide to view. Good luck with your quest, and please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well after lots of research and worry, I decided against the purchase of that particular car! I noticed a couple of electrical warnings, and with the wet boot, I think it may have been an ongoing problem. So just waiting for my deposit back. Finding it very difficult to find a good used Q7! Thank you for your help and advice though.

Hi it is most likely the camera under the windscreen failing they are very sensitive to heat/cold and living with it verses the cost of replacement is a no brainer. Steve.

Hi could be the delete and remap are causing the problem all airflow and exhaust flows are monitored against each other if the exhaust gas is escaping to fast the the o2 sensor can't read it properly, thinking behind this is all DPF deletes involve physical removal of some or all of the DPF core. Steve.

Any updates for us Fi? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi which brand of brake fluid was used when it was changed I have found that you can't just use any DOT4 as this caused quite a few component failures on my car until I settled on Comma ESP4 this is as close as you get to OE without the price tag, even the garage I use has started using what they call the expensive stuff as 2ltres is about the same as what they would have paid for a gallon of the trade stuff, all brake fluid is hydroscopic, [absorbs water] but having done some research it seems the cheaper fluids absorb water faster and the majority of modern car breaking systems rely on fluid viscosity, worth a try?. PS you can't cause damage over filling a brake reservoir. Steve.

Can any Q7 members respond to Natasha’s request. How long have you owned yours Natasha, how many miles has it done, and how much oil does it consume in x miles? Kind regards, Gareth.

Glad you got sorted 🙂 If it's any consolation I get my wife to take her jaguar to have her xe adblue topped up, as jags are known for adblue system issues. This has saved us twice when the system has gone faulty and they've had to drain the tank, reset the sensor and top it back up FOC twice. My rationale is, if they do it then we can't be blamed for it being over filled or wrong adblue fluid added etc.

Thank You Much have anyone had any issues with the Q7 oil consumption

Correct it can only be done by main dealer. Expect to Psy £500

Thankyou , Steve ..

In theory the bumper should fit.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Since I had a cambelt snap my 16V Bosch KE-Motronic injection ACE engine has been down on power and is unable to idle correctly and start with a warm engine. When my mechanic rebuilt the top end of the engine and put on the cambelt he told me that he could not see a point in the intermediate shaft sprocket, as the Haynes book has a photo of it. The car cold starts on the button, idles nicely until it gets to about 60 degrees where the engine note changes from an advance spark to one that is knocked back and at this point is stops the ability to idle. I have taken apart and serviced the TPS and that drops down to 2 ohms resistance reliably now, and I resealed it by welding the plastic casing with a hot knife. So I can now discount the TPS as a problem and the diagnostics does not flag this any longer. Since the rebuild of the top end of the engine I am getting a Crank case sensor error, even tho this model does not have such a device. Before the belt, travelling at 65 I could put my foot down and receive an instant surge of power from the 140 horses, since the rebuild it no longer surges the horses. I know from my basic golf mk2 that when I do a cambelt change, I can do a static timing check with a gunson timing gun by having the ignition on and rotating the distributor, before fireing up, then proceed with the secondary tune up with the engine running and the vacuum hose detached from the distributor. This got me thinking "how can I do a static setup with the Bosch KE-Motronic?" My thinking is as follows: Unplug the battery from the car Clamp the top camshaft sproket in place, as it is correct Clamp the lower crankshaft in place take off the cambelt get hold of a golf coil I have lying around that is good and hot wire it to the battery Connect the main ht lead to the hot-wired coil Plug in the Gunson strobe attach the hall sender of the strobe on HT1 rotate the intermediate shaft clockwise until I get a strobe flash reconnect the cambelt The KE-Motronic should them self regulate. I look forward to anything anyone else could add to this, as it is a technical experiment that I have thought up.

I have been getting this error message recently and can't find anywhere anything about it. I have spoken to Audi and they say it's probably nothing to worry about but obviously had no idea what it actually means or what is causing it. It comes on approx two mins after driving. Any idea what this is and how to fix it?

Does anyone have a copy of the fitting instructions for front (81A.075.111) and rear (81A.075.101) mud flaps ? (bought a set online but no instructions were provided, and I contacted Audi customer services but they just directed me to Erwin)

There is no way to check for wear without dismantling the engine, by which point one might as well change the belt anyway. The labour cost of that work is why it so expensive, and also why it is prefeable to change the water pump at the same time. Whether you have a belt or a chain can only be determined by reference to the engine number or VIN as Magnet suggested.

Hi I have just bought a salvage Audi a6 2016 I need a key fob for it dose it have to go to the mail dealer or can it be done by a lock smith I have been told they have got a encrypted immobiliser so is it only the main dealer what can do this for me

Hey, i got an audi a6 c6 allroad half year ago. Recently it started to make clunking sound, which comes from the back. I asked some passenger to listen where does it come from, all of them said that it is coming from inside the car 😀 i think i found the fault part but i am not sure how to fix and did not find any info online. So i think the rear passenger side strut tower support went bad. Now how to change it? Do i need to depressurise the system? I will be taking out the shock to change the strut tower. How does it go? Thanks for info

Hi 👋 all Having trouble the last few weeks with an intermittent fault code 00814 Brake Pressure magnetic coil, recently changed the brake fluid and full brakes pads & discs ( dot 4) all fine until after 6-7 weeks whilst leaving the supermarket the brakes started locking on , the ABS & ESP light came on as well as "RHL speed sensor fault" so when I got home I ordered the speed sensor as it wasn't recognised on the OBDELEVEN, anyway I've changed this after 3 days and used the car locally In between and another fault ( 00814) has been logged ?? The ABS & new speed sensor are fine and codes cleared, I've heard horror stories regarding the brake servo being replaced however its not always solved the problem ?? Its not the bearing and reluctor ring inside as it records the vehicle speed on each wheel , I'm wondering if the brake fluid which was to the top of the cap 🤔 was overfilled at the garage on service and possibly caused damage , however the brake pressure sensor is working as it records 0.64 bar when normal then over 140.00 bar when I depressed the brake pedal ! Any help 🙏??? Please

Hello Christian, I’ve declined to comment until now, but I too find room for concerns with your overall maste (sic) plan. I may have got the wrong end of the stick here, but doesn’t this boil down to ‘ …. give me your details and I will then reveal my Master Plan! Being realistic about it, I think it’s highly unlikely that many members will have a contra view to that already expressed by Alpha Omega, and will feel - rightly or wrongly - that they are leaving themselves too wide open to the potential of being spammed. In an attempt to minimise that risk, perhaps you could let us have some detail of your background Christian, and successes you have had with other forums you have approached to date. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bill, You could be right about your engine running on a chain rather than a toothed belt. However, I had a feeling that when I checked some time ago, there was conflicting references to chains and belts. Definitive answer? Take a trip into your local main dealer ( armed with your V5 - with the VIN) and ask for the Parts Dept. -not Service Reception - and enquire about the cost of the belt and tensioner assembly. You will then be informed it has a chain, or a belt. I wouldn’t attempt to do this over the phone. If it does indeed have a chain, then I would still get the auxiliary belt renewed on your 12 year old car, unless you have evidence that it’s been changed in recent times. Back to cambelts (if fitted ) and scheduled changes. Choices:- Follow Audi’s current guidance and forget about changing it until 130K miles with no time limit - by which time the belt is likely to have snapped, and all you have to then worry about is scrapping the car. Renew it every 5 years or say 75K miles, with the all important caveat -‘Whichever comes first’. My choice is obviously the latter. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Bill. Kind regards, Gareth.

I went from a 5.5L V8 MB E500(which I owned for 12 years) to my 2017 petrol SQ5 and I love driving it.