codrock Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 The fuel cap is not opening with the central locking on my Audi A3 2009, after reading a lot of threads I seem to think it is the Actuator that will be faulty, has anyone changed an actuator on an A3 of the same year?.......will I need to replace all the plastic cover etc around the fuel cap as I see others have on other models......any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnet Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Might be worth trying a couple of squirts of WD40 before renewing anything Adam. Kind regards, Gareth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codrock Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Will try that.....but cant get it open....where is the manual toggle located? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnet Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Isn’t it in the boot on the side panel - on the same side as the filler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codrock Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Ive looked but can't see anything....there no small panel that just clips off or anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Envy Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 Inside boot behind line on side of filler cap - usually a loop and cord effect. Wd 40 may recover it but normally its a new solenoid requirement Clues on the following clip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codrock Posted December 2, 2019 Author Share Posted December 2, 2019 Sorted it now everyone......had to take the side panel off.....the cable was just behind there so happy days.....going to try a squirt of wd40 and see how it goes. Thanks for all that read and replied, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffcoggin Posted December 2, 2019 Share Posted December 2, 2019 WD40 may be fine for a temporary fix, but it isn't a good long term solution as the oils in it will dry up leaving a sticky residue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codrock Posted December 4, 2019 Author Share Posted December 4, 2019 so do you recommend a new solenoid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnet Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 Hello Adam, You can of course simply renew the solenoid in the hope that it may solve the issue. To me, the more sensible approach would be to check the voltage supply etc. to the unit first. If you don’t have the necessary meter or experience, then it would be worth investing in the half an hour of the services of a trusted local auto electrician to ensure you spend wisely from that point on. If you don’t like the idea of a squirt of WD40 then there are other such ‘lubricants’ some containing PTFE which you could try. A squirt of something is cheap and always worth a try! Kind regards, Gareth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Envy Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 Having known an Audi owner experience this issue and seeing how many threads there are online regarding it I personally would replace the solenoid. Lube spraying may work for an unknown duration but will remain a temporary fix. Until the next time you go to fill up and have to resort to the "emergency" cord or as some would do - use the cord instead permanently. It is down to preference and convenience. It may be a voltage supply issue to the device and is an easy check but I would be surprised if Audi do not have the item in stock seeing so many failures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffcoggin Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 Personally I would fit a new solenoid for no other reason than I dislike the sticky staining of WD40, but then I have a particular hatred of the stuff. It would be worth first testing the fuse and electrical supply if you can. You may already be aware that WD40 is not, and was never designed to be, a lubricant. It was the result of many tests of various mixtures whose purpose was to drive water from the surface of wet steel in order to prevent rusting. The winning mixture was the fortieth mix tried, hence WD (water displacement) 40. It's true that it contains a mineral oil, but the MSDS reveals it also contains an organic solvent similar to paraffin and a perfume to cover the stink of that paraffin. As the solvent evaporates it leaves the oil and the perfume residue which, as I mentioned earlier, leaves a nasty sticky mess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnet Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 Hello Cliff and Adam. Thanks Cliff. I can understand your dislike (hatred, perhaps not) of WD40, but whatever is said, it ( and it’s superior? counterparts) do assist in assessing whether plastic components are suffering from undue resistance to electrical forces which should operate them. If it offers a cheap temporary resolution to an issue, then in my book, it’s done what you wanted it to do, and can easily be removed with a couple of squirts of brake cleaner. Simply renewing the solenoid? Yes, of course, that principle can be applied on the basis of changing any component which may be thought to be at fault, or has been shown by others to be at fault at some time. But, it will always be a guess that it is faulty, hence my and Cliff’s advice to first test the supply to it - if you have the meter and the experience. Kind regards, Gareth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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