Mungo2007 Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 Hi all I have a 2007 Q7 that has sprung up a P2011 fault code with from what i can find online is “Intake manifold air control actuator / solenoid, bank 2 – open circuit What does this mean and is it an easy fix? Car is running fine so not sure if it is one i can leave for a bit or need to address it now. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Q Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 Have a look at this thread on.hete, as it'll help 🙂 cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mungo2007 Posted June 4, 2020 Author Share Posted June 4, 2020 Thanks Steve Another question that i always get confused with it says bank 2, is this drivers side or passenger side so that i start looking at the correct side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Q Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 You're welcome, this should help 🙂 https://mechanicbase.com/troubleshooting/bank1-vs-bank2/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mungo2007 Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 Just thought i would update the thread, looks like problem is fixed for now. After looking at the thread link and some other forum threads i found that the link arms from the swirl flap motors can start to wear in the ball joints, so i thought i would try this fix first. Bought a repair kit on eBay for £26 but it is an upgraded kit with the full ball joint covered rather than the standard ones that have the back of the ball joint open i thought these may wear a bit more evenly. Popped the arms off of the swirl flap motors on both sides with long nose pliers and popped the new ones on took under 5 minutes, i kept fingers crossed that just doing this would fix it as there was a bit of play on the existing ones, engine management light out plugged into the diagnostic software and cleared the permanent codes coming up run for a few days and all fixed fingers crossed cheap fix, but time will tell if there are any other problems that flag up again on the diagnostics but you never know i am not normally this lucky! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Q Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 On 6/10/2020 at 4:21 PM, Mungo2007 said: Just thought i would update the thread, looks like problem is fixed for now. After looking at the thread link and some other forum threads i found that the link arms from the swirl flap motors can start to wear in the ball joints, so i thought i would try this fix first. Bought a repair kit on Ebay for £26 but it is an upgraded kit with the full ball joint covered rather than the standard ones that have the back of the ball joint open i thought these may wear a bit more evenly. Popped the arms off of the swirl flap motors on both sides with long nose pliers and popped the new ones on took under 5 minutes, i kept fingers crossed that just doing this would fix it as there was a bit of play on the existing ones, engine management light out plugged into the diagnostic software and cleared the permanent codes coming up run for a few days and all fixed fingers crossed cheap fix, but time will tell if there are any other problems that flag up again on the diagnostics but you never know i am not normally this lucky! So glad it's sorted 🙂 Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mungo2007 Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 Update - Bad news fault code has come back after a couple of weeks so i changed the swirl flap motor but still got the fault code. Is there a way to bypass this and leave the swirl flaps open and trick the system to think it is all ok? I maybe wrong but i am sure i read somewhere online this is possible and then the fault code goes away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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