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  1. New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.
    15 points
  2. Hi all, I had the same issue where the brake servo and stop start error appeared. After reading this helpful thread, I thought I would do my part to help out too. 🙂 Issue stared on the 5th June 2021 and it was fixed on the 9th June 2021. The car has been driven for approx. 100 miles during this time. I've called up Cardiff Audi and fortunately they have one sensor left in stock. Please note that 5Q 0906207, 5Q 0906207A, 5Q 0906207B are all cross compatible as confirmed by Audi parts department. But of course best to get the latest B version if available. Please note VW, Seat & Sokda all share the same part and I've checked with my local dealerships and they are all the same price £79.60. I've managed to get it down to £76 at Cardiff Audi. If unavailable, usually you can order it and it takes a day to arrive if ordered by mid-day. Installation will take less than 5 mins if you are unfamiliar with the car. I have enclosed a print screen of the Audi A4 Shop manual. Link are here: https://cardiagn.com/audi-a4-b9-8w-brake-system/ Page 146. I can do a simple video to demonstrate this if anyone wanted. One thing to be noted is when you unplugged the sensor, some pressure will be released from the hole. I've asked Cardiff Audi whether this falls part of the recall part and they said no. But they've done a few of these jobs and knew about the issue. I hope the above helps. Kind regards, Ambrose
    7 points
  3. We've found this that other manufacturer forums get more footfall. I'm not sure why the Audi one isn't as positive. Myself and fellow admin team do our best to respond to posts but please bare in mind we are all volunteers who do work full time jobs (I do 74 hours a week!).
    5 points
  4. Hi Mike don't take any of this personally, its not aimed at people like yourself who have observed the proprieties and answered and said thank you, I can see what Gareth is driving at along with the others that try to answer a problem, 90% of the information that is given is at best thin and devoid of any real substance, the information you have given is good and you even reply to the requests for further information, Gareth and co are trying to get around the one post wonders who can't be bothered to reply TO ANY SUGGESTIONS OR REQUESTS, they have no preconceptions of what the ideal member is and I think the previous posts just reflect what has changed in the world and not singling out anyone in particular who is already a proactive member, the bottom line is if you attract answers for your problem at least have the decency to reply, otherwise it becomes an exercise in futility and I can honestly see why a lot of first time problem posts remain unanswered, more often than not we are on a hiding to nothing, I personally get a great deal of satisfaction from trying to help solve problems and especially when it all goes the posters way, it has nothing to do with personalities its just plain old helping each other. Steve.
    5 points
  5. Hi All, As most don't follow up on posts & its been a few months since swapping my front discs, I thought I'd do the right thing & give an honest update. The relatively cheap Audura discs & pads from Europarts, that I fitted, are very performing very well with absolutely no issues, no brake judder & they stop the car exactly as they should. I would recommend this particular brand especially if one is on a budget.
    4 points
  6. Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. searching around I found prices to be all over the place. you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.
    4 points
  7. Hi All, In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others. All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives. The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content. I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO. I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane. I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can. If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)? Thanks, Joe
    4 points
  8. Since this section sees little activity,I thought I would wake it up and possibly raise a topic which might cause some controversy - so apologies in advance if it offends, but hopefully it will allow views to be aired. The forum appears to be experiencing an increasing number of ‘members’ joining the forum, to seek help via. their first post, and again simply saying it as it is, then some disappear without any acknowledgement or even feedback, never to return to contribute towards helping others at some point in the future. Steve Q generously welcomes new members who join simply to advise the forum of their interest in Audi, and without wishing to appear patronising, I think Steve’s welcoming attitude is to be applauded, as is the the time taken by some of the new members who don’t immediately want anything, other than joining a like minded community. I just ask- where does this welcoming attitude become taken for granted, and folks just join to seek a free - of charge, and future exchange - consultation? I believe some forums exercise a procedure, whereby new members must make a number of posts before say, advertising, and even requesting help, based on ensuring a participation, rather than a simple ‘I’m joining to pick your brains free of charge’. Just a thought - If new members wish to post a plea for help at a stage where they haven’t posted x number of earlier participating posts, then should they join and post a plea only as paid ‘Supporting members’? Apologies if any of this offends, or is considered non-welcoming, and indeed if any of the above is not shared by others. As usual - Kind regards, Gareth.
    4 points
  9. Update for whoever finds this thread in future. Apparently my expansion tank is a different revision and has no physical silica bag inside. So no burst silica bag. Also checked with VCDS for errors but aircon unit had no faults. I ordered an original Valeo heater matrix from Germany for less than 100€, disassembled the entire central tunnel and replaced it. No leaks around the AC site, but the old heater matrix was almost 100% blocked. After cleaning it I tried to blow inside but only very little air was coming out. Compared to the new it was day and night. Reassembled everything, refilled the lost coolant, reset all the errors. Aircon works again, even hotter than before. After another small trip of 1000 km coolant level seems to be stable. Will keep an eye on it in the next weeks.
    4 points
  10. I do fully appreciate where you're coming from Gareth, I've been speaking to Trevor about what we can do to retain members etc. My post can be found in our moderators section. I love helping others and setting up the shows but find it deflating when we get a low turn out for the shows. It's frustrating when you see fellow Audi clubs with large turnouts and we can only get a handful. This has got worse since COVID as we used to have good numbers prior. This includes loosing some regular members due to them joining other clubs or doing other activities. I think most people don't realise the level of investment the admin/moderators team make. You with your vast knowledge and in my case I research the topics once members ask a question which takes time. Plus updating the news section & Motorsport sections as well as the how to guides. I just wish we'd be able to increase our regular members base.
    4 points
  11. Many thanks to Stagn8 for posting the interview with JCB chairman, totally fascinated with the content and one which all politicians should watch. The total reliance on electricity is totally out of order in this country, the power generation strategy programme over the last 20 odd years has been woeful, we have the lowest power stand by we have ever had, and to think it can be solved by windmills, solar and tidal power stations is a misconception. One new nuclear station due to be commissioned in a few years time and closure of fossil fired stations and aging nuclear stations has been ill thought out. Our source of power importing from France I think is fragile with our relationship with them disappearing fast. Apologies for the rant, it's something I have a little knowledge about having worked in the industry for all my working life.
    4 points
  12. Hi guys, As promised, here is a short video of how to replace the Brake servo sensor of an Audi A4 B9. Not the best or clearest video, but I hope it helps. Let me know if you have any questions. Ambrose
    4 points
  13. i can see why it was 1100,it looks like a very professional repair in fairness.it wont happen him again hopefully! Greg
    3 points
  14. Hi Sean Wheel arrived and fits OK👍 It's a 19" but it has the same rolling radius as the 17" wheels My only slight concern is that it's resting on the battery cables, so as shown in the photos as a temporary fix I've cut up a few pieces of carpet which are now taking the weight. Will get some hard foam for a permanent fix (if the factory under wheel foam takes the weight I might source one of those) Note - you have to junk the tyre gunk and compressor container
    3 points
  15. Hi thank you, I remember about fifteen years ago going to my mates house for a Chinese takeaway, while we were waiting he took me down to his garage to show me the Ducati 998 he had bought, only just over a year old, when I remarked it stank of petrol he replied that he had noticed that but couldn't find the source, so me being fascinated started a small inspection, I soon found the cause due to the slight bubble in the paint on the tank around the stop !Removed! for the fuel which when piped released a small drop of fuel, he had drained the tank while the cold weather was here but the previous owner obviously hadn't and there was a patch of rot inside the tank around the stop !Removed! entry, new tank no paint or decals £1800 paint and decals +£500. so we drained the tank got rid of as much of the rust as possible and coated the area with an epoxy fuel tank repair, two months later he sold the Ducati and bought a BMW R80. Will be staying on the forum, STEVE.
    3 points
  16. Gareth, Westridge Garage is the main dealer for Skoda and Mitsubishi and they will be the same price as the others. The original Audi main dealer, where I bought my car brand new from, is Esplanade Garage. They dropped the Audi dealership a few years ago after an argument with Audi but they are still dealing with VW, Mercedes, and more, but I wouldn't go back there after the way they treated all of us loyal customers, apart from that, they will be 100% more expensive than anyone else. I'll make some enquiries and I'll post back if I get a positive result. Thanks Tony
    3 points
  17. I found the same issue under my 05 A4 avant quattro tfsi. Nearly fell over when I saw the extent of the rust above the rear spring supports (hidden under the felt wheel-arch cowling) and bad rust all along under sills from rear to front hidden above the plastic undertrays. NCT in Ireland is pretty thorough but none of this rust was spotted so the car flies through every year. The rust stops where the plastic undertray stops i.e. where the chassis is permanently exposed and can dry out properly. I'm getting the car welded. Plastic undertrays/felt cowlings free to take away - belly will remain naked from now on!
    3 points
  18. Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC
    3 points
  19. My wife has a VW Golf 1.4 TSI 2016 and has been loosing coolant similar to your experience, which was the water pump. It was easy to identify the pooling on top of gearbox. Cost at VAG specialist using OEM part was £466 My A5 B9 looses a small amount of coolant (max to min in a few K miles) and has been pressure tested, but I can now see dried water/coolant at the outlet pipe underneath the reservoir. If I were you I'd get a second opinion before spending £950
    3 points
  20. Go to the menu, select systems - Servicing & checks - tire pressure monitoring system - store tire pressures - yes store now & the light will go from the dash. Obviously, make sure you check all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure first... & Pump them up to the correct pressure. The cold often causes TPMS issues as the density of warm air is less in comparison to cold air. Around 1/2 PSI per 10 degrees in temperature. Or you could have a puncture or slow puncture. So best to keep an eye on the pressures after you reset, but almost every time it has happened to me it's just the car crying about nothing. It is not unusual for tires to naturally lose 1.3 PSI per month as air gets through the rubber via permeation. Pressures will be in Manual or can be found online... Air can leak from the Tyre, valve, and rim if it's cracked or corroded around the seal. But I would place my bets on a slight pressure drop or a slow puncture. Best to check the Tread condition and for any visible damage to each tyre while you're at it also.
    3 points
  21. Hi! Just purchased my 5th Audi a 21 plate A4 B9.5 Allroad!
    3 points
  22. After four years since posing his question I doubt Daniel is reading this forum any more.
    3 points
  23. Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK
    3 points
  24. So after multiple lights and it being scanned etc all showing different faults it turns out it was a sensor on the back left passenger abs sensor that was faulty hence setting start stop / passenger air bag /abs / audi auto lights and many more lights off so touch wood this has resolved the issue as of now no lights on and back to normal just £165 quid lighter
    3 points
  25. I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan
    3 points
  26. Just want to wish all you dads and soon to be dads a happy father's Day 🙂
    3 points
  27. Hi pictures, price, service history, milage, all the prior might raise some interest. Steve.
    3 points
  28. Hi stay clear of Audi/Quickfit any local independent should be more than capable. Steve.
    3 points
  29. Hi I love things like this as it denies the Audi Stealers their lives blood, overcharging they probably get the filters for about a fiver each, they never change the filter and if left it causes all sorts of other problems, by rights an air filter should be changed every year regardless of milage as no one has microscope eyeballs that can see how blocked the filter medium pores are, think about it, more cleaner air so the ECU is not constantly correcting the injector factors to allow for the lack of it. Steve.
    3 points
  30. Could be valve guide seals weeping a bit overnight. Try lifting your foot off the accelerator letting the wheels drive the car on over run, then accelerate fairly briskly if they is blue smoke it could be the valve guides.
    3 points
  31. Hello - whoever you are. Sorry to start off on a negative note , but you give us very little to go on - no name, no location, no year of the car, no info on service history, no MOT history, number of owners, and last change of owner, who (company?) has put this vehicle to the mileage covered? Whether you have requested a service history print out via. an Audi dealer-? High mileage vehicles can be better than ultra low mileage in some respects, but frequency of servicing become paramount. l Again with apologies, but do the homework and at least give us something to advise on! We do like to help on here, but you really do need to help yourself, to help us. Just in passing:- I’ll quote the outspoken Dewar ( of Dewar whisky) ‘ If we are put on this earth to help one another, what are the others doing to help themselves?’ Kind regards, Gareth.
    3 points
  32. Whatever the precise cause Joshua, there is no cheap or quick fix for that sort of problem. Take it back for a refund before it is too late, and don't be deterred by excuses, delaying tactics, or prevarication from the seller.
    3 points
  33. In line with other forums, may I be allowed to mark the passing of our Queen, and offer condolences, as we would with any other family who have just lost a loved one. Having experienced my childhood before the start of her reign, and lived and worked throughout it, I firmly believe that we have enjoyed the best decades so far. With all the bad news surrounding the immediate future, let’s hope that things will turn out to be not as bad as forecast, yet perhaps we should respect that we cannot continue to take tomorrow for granted. Kind regards, Gareth.
    3 points
  34. Years ago, after my warranty ran out on my A6 Avant I decided to do my own oil change, What a chor to have to remove the under tray just to change the oil. I decided to do something about it, so I cut an access hole in the under tray. Oil changes are now so easy.
    3 points
  35. Thanks to all those who have contributed to this forum. I have had the message servo restricted several times and message went off, me thinking all ok!! until message appeared again and and ABS was kicking in when driving. Found this forum and it was central to me sorting issue, changed (2 minute job) said sensor having got it sent from Phil at Cardiff Audi parts direct. All appears well now, no warning messages and stop start working and hopefully ABS saved!! Again a big thank you to this forum.
    3 points
  36. Hi all, just to add my own experience with this - i got the same warnings this morning (brake servo restricted + start/stop fault). At first i decided to ignore as it wasn't in yellow or red. But then i got on the internet spent couple of hours reading other peoples' experiences and i got scared (didn't want to pay £3k for new ABS system). I called my local workshop, who said they didn't do such things. Then i called Audi to book an appointment with them, but they don't work saturdays. I tried to book online, the first available slot was next saturday. Then i decided i'm going to replace it myself, looked quite easy on youtube, part available on ebay... And then (after reading the last posts here) i remembered i have audi roadside assistance cover🤦‍♀️ I called them straight away, they came in about 1h, the guy was an audi guy and he was amazing. He knew about this fault of course, he said a lot of cars have it and he was really glad i called them straight away on the first day the message appeared. He said he wouldn't recommend driving the car with this fault as it only take certain amount of presses on the brake till the ABS system breaks. Luckily he had exactly the same part with him (apparently there are two types - A and B but he had one of each with him) , he replaced it in no time and diagnostics came out clear, message disappeared...sorted. All covered i didn't pay anything extra. He also said that even if he had not had the part with him, he would be back here on Monday with it. So if you do have roadside assistance from Audi, just call them. Don't wait, it sounds like it can get really pricey. Also, if you call audi assistance, you're actually calling the yellow AA and they can dispatch any car - it can be the regular AA or Audi guys. Just insist that you want the Audi guys, even if you have to wait a bit longer. The regular AA won't have the parts and probably won't even know about this issue.
    3 points
  37. Admin, Is it possible to create a “sticky” including details of the correct part number, the excellent video showing how easy it is to replace the part, you don’t need to go to a dealer unless it’s a warranty claim, and finally, a warning not to drive the car further than necessary, regardless of the dashboard warning? Many thanks.
    3 points
  38. Sadly, I guess we won’t know for 3-4 years whether the B version or the eBay cheapies are any good, as it seemed to take the OEM ones that length of time to fail. I suspect Audi did a cost benefit analysis and decided that dealer labour prices to replace a £75 part probably wasn’t worth it, given that the dash warning alerts users to the fault. That warning may be misleading, but most of us have heeded it and swapped the sensor - thanks mainly to this kind of forum.
    3 points
  39. I used to be the chairman of the Ford Cortina mk2 owners club, still have a classic car no longer got mk2 Cortina's I have a 1964 Ford Consul Classic.
    3 points
  40. Well Steve, your mention of decency to respond, sums it up in a couple of words. It doesn’t add any on-cost to the already free! - and welcoming- service, yet some must think that attribute is an unnecessary skill to acquire these days. I find myself thinking ‘nice car, pity you didn’t order it with the optional manners pack!’ , but there again, I’m old fashioned - well old anyway! It’s interesting to hear that you too get a well deserved satisfaction from helping others, and that Steve Q does as well. That’s great, now we have at least three guaranteed, and I sure a few others too. Keep enjoying that Steve. There must be very few forums which can benefit from such experience gained from almost galaxial mileage usage, and the necessary problem solving which goes with it - and all to try to earn a living. Many thanks again and kind regards, Gareth.
    3 points
  41. Hi sorry mate its a full clutch four piece DMF, Driven plate, and slave cylinder best given attention soon as when the DMF starts really juddering eventually it locks over and you can't get at the bolts to release the DMF from the crank so you have to go at it with a diamond disc cutter to get it off, good news is your clutch kit will be a hell of a lot cheaper than the later models and don't be tempted by the solid flywheel conversion as that puts excess strain on the crank damper at the front end and ruins them in record time, worse case scenario the new solid flywheel is capable of breaking your crank through Harmonic Resonance at about 2800rpm thats why old diesels were limited to 2500rpm to stop this happening, with the advent of DMF and a rubber mounted crank pulley they are able to rev higher giving the manufacturers a wider rev range to tune the torque curve. Steve.
    3 points
  42. The message should stay on permanently. If the message has popped up briefly and disappeared, then my guess is that it won't be long before it fails. Get a replacement sensor now and keep it in the glove box ready to replace once it does go. You don't want to be in a position where you are too far from a dealer to get the part or you have to wait days for it to be delivered - driving too long with the error message will brick the ABS servo. Better to spend the £80-ish (assuming if you go for a OEM part) now or a few thousand £'s later!
    3 points
  43. Hi here are the pics of my box out, the driveshaft seal goes in hole in the gearbox diff housing I also included a picture of the reciprocating part of the diff, the exploded diagram shows the other possible contender marked in yellow that fits between radius shaft and the inner bore of the slave cylinder, the pressure plate and driven plate are industrial quality with regard too gripping there are only three things that cause slip, clutch master, contamination or just good old wear
    3 points
  44. Hi, yes all working now. The problem was stop start at stand still and I guess the same system puts the car into coast mode when driving. That was when driving is when the warning came up.
    3 points
  45. It looks like my power issues and no communication issue to CAN were all related to corroded wiring in the drivers side trunk area, we found the wiring to be literally crumbling once moved which was possibly as a result of a leak 18months ago. Once the wires were trimmed back and connected all power was restored. I still have my original elrctronic brake issue but that should be easily resolved now the car has power and is starting 😃 below is the link I found that lead me to the source of the issue and hopefully is will save someone else a lot of effort and time if they have the same or similar issues https://www.audiworld.com/forums/vag-com-discussion-51/b8-chasing-intermittent-codes-can-failures-no-crank-no-start-inspect-splice-2973994/
    3 points
  46. Hello Alex, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear of your (not too uncommon) issue. The Audi ‘recommended’ garage quote seems unacceptably high to me - excessively? - and must include the supply, fit and spray of a new wing. I would seriously question this need, and if it were mine, I would hawk this around a couple of local body shops and obtain estimates there. You could also try a couple of ‘smart repair’ specialists and see what becomes most attractive to you. Claiming on insurance would be my last resort, since I would anticipate a local repair is likely to cost little more than an average excess - we would hope. Of course, if you claim off your insurance, then bang goes your NCB, and even if this is protected, your next premium will be hiked - as it will be, even if you just notify your insurers you have been involved in this accident - even if you decide not to claim. All of this boils down to not informing your insurers, and simply getting quotes to get it done yourself. Very unfortunate, but….. Car is on lease? - I’m probably out of touch, but a little surprised that a 5 year old car is still under lease. Hope some of the above is of some help. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. For recommendations on good value Bodyshops in your area - call in at a couple of smaller volume used car sites and ask for recommendations there. These boys usually know where good jobs are done at reasonable prices.
    3 points
  47. Hi Nicholas, I had the same issue stared on the 5th June 2021 and it was fixed on the 9th June 2021. The car has been driven for approx. 100 miles during this time. Based on this thread, I would suggest to get it fixed as soon as possible. To get it fixed, you will need to replace the brake servo sensor 5Q 0906207B. Here is a video I made to how to replace it: For more information, please refer to Page 9 of this thread. I hope it helps. Ambrose
    3 points
  48. Taken to the dealer on Friday and their diagnostics confirmed the forum's conclusion. New brake pressure sensor fitted under used car warranty. When pushed the service advisor grudgingly admitted that they had changed two that week but it seems the party line is, "We don't know what you mean". This being the case have emailed Audi UK (Thanks to Peter above for details) to voice concerns that all Audi owners should be getting this part checked and replaced by Audi free of charge. Many thanks to all the contributing members for their shared info and advice 👍
    3 points
  49. Hope this helps. I’ve circled in red the area of the sensor. It’s under a plastic flap. You have to pull the rubber edge off to lift up. The sensor pulls vertically off. You then slide a plastic holding clamp off the other end. Just reverse the process to put the new one back in. It’s really simple and annoying that everyone seems to want to charge a couple of hundred pounds for this??!?
    3 points
  50. Hi all. Heres a wee pic of mine 👍
    3 points
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