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From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

Thanks Christian, I’m now at an age where I tend to say what I think, and there is a lot that could be said, but I’m not too fussed on spending the time to do that with you - on here or otherwise. Obviously if there are contra opinions, then the members will be keen to make contact with you - and let’s hope they do- but judging by your responses to date from other contact mediums, I wouldn’t put my (in caps) money on it - but fingers crossed for you. Cutting to the chase, and very much a personal view, I feel if you took this idea to ‘Dragon’s Den’ you would be shot down in flames with a barrage of ‘I’m out’ s. To bring you up to date, I’ve chosen to leave the future of this thread in the hands of the Forum Administrator. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Hope you have some luck in finding a replacement A6 at auction.

Hi where to begin, ask anyone on here and I am certain that I would be classed as an enthusiast I have owned multiple Fords, Alfa Romeos, and the Audi, through my connections and experience I have discovered many things, foremost that FSH from dealers is about as useful as a chocolate fireguard, you would be better off having a independent garage with the pile of receipts you mention in your video at least thats physical evidence of work done and the parts used, I wont bore you with the experiences I have had in the last thirty years with dealer warranties but suffice to say I have had to fight tooth and nail to get what I wanted and only failed once, the manufacturers of these cars sell their wares on the premise that they will do 18k between oil changes and air filters only need changing every 40k, its utter garbage I service my own vehicles and stand by the statement that sort of service schedule will terminate your engine, my qualification for that statement is that as a cab driver I have done over a million miles between five vehicles one in particular I sold with 360k on the clock, I have a good working knowledge of brakes and transmission as well as diagnostics, Audi parts are hyper expensive and always on back order, the best way to get round this is to get the part number then go fishing on line, thats when you find most of those parts come from Febi, Bosch, Hella and you pay about a third of the price because they are not in a badge engineered box with VAG on it, your idea is sound in principle but are you actually going to get anymore than Joe average out of the dealers?, the Bar stewards don't even want to honour the extended warranties, have a look on this forum there are loads of examples of this, you may well be better starting a spares scheme negotiating with parts suppliers in Europe, I have never had to ask anyone to get me a service history as I have always created my own. Steve.

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

https://www.google.com/search?q=audi+a6+gearbox+code+QLX.&oq=audi+a6+++gearbox+code+QLX.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg80gEJMTA3MGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁

Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.

Dan. It would help if you gave some details of the engine such as its size and fuel.

Hello Asad, Looks to be deposited by some ‘outside influence’. Have you looked at the under- bonnet insulation? Kind regards, Gareth.

Yes I had a lot of trouble trying to get the service history off them. They kept saying they couldn’t get hold of it as they were not the registered keeper Will follow your advice for future purchases. Thanks again.

Glad you got sorted 🙂

Bill. The Audi service schedule is more or less all you need do to keep it in decent condition, though I would add two caveats: 1/ Change the cambelt ahead of schedule if it has not been replaced for a few years. Even though the car may not have reached the recommended mileage, (you have not mentioned the actual distance covered since the belt was last changed,) belts can degrade even when not used. Given the consequences of belt failure abroad it makes sense to my mind to change it in advance. 2/ Take the car for a fast motorway journey of about half an hour well before your next continental holiday. That will reveal any faults that may need to be sorted out before you go abroad.

Hi Stephen (Alpha Omega), No worries, we need a few sinics dotted about! I don't understand how your email was on any page (what page specifically?) without you putting it in, I can't imagine the Google form pre-populates, maybe it does. No need to reply if this isn't for you, all good. Christian

Not a lot to go with there Matt. Oil level light? Oil pressure light?

Hi Andy unfortunately not, Audi have all the codes for every model from 2011 up and wont supply that information to any outside key suppliers, its not like the old days when you got a dummy key and just coded the new transducer in that key via the ignition. Steve.

Ok thanks for reply. Took it to main dealer and of course diagnostic test did not reveal malfunction so advised to monitor it. However, later I did notice that if I pull handle hard it seems to stop it from locking but I still do not think this should be necessary so will see how it goes.

Audi have replaced the drivers door latch under warranty part no. A4K2 837 016 H the car still at Audi checking hand brake .

Getting my lock system replaced at the local Audi garage on my A6 2021 .. had the same problem

Hi thats not the service position thats the motor knackered, they don't have a service position, this is a well known problem as its a bad design a percentage of water gets past the spindle seal and terminates the motor. Steve.

Hi guys, first time here, just seeing if anyone was interested in my FiL’s A4. He’s lovingly looked after it from new, first registered in September 2000, stacks of paperwork and only 94,000 miles. He’s only selling as has finally taken the plunge and bought a new Q2 (at age 83!) so this is no boy racer car. Rare-ish 2.4 petrol, runs well, tax to September, MOT until July. Bad points - slight scuff to front wing, little bit of bubbling on roof, but nothing you’d not expect for a 24-year-old car. Garaged every day, and Audi of course offered peanuts for it. Tbh he’d rather see it go to a good home. Currently located in Redcar. Please inbox with any questions, I’ve tried to be honest but I’m not a specialist so please let me know if I can help. Cheers.

Hi , 2017 a6 with the same leak on both sides of the car , running down A frame and into foot well . The water as I'm sure is the same for most gets in where the water flow / level becomes to much for the drain and builds up ( doesn't take much ) it overflows to the inside of the wind defector and the leak gets in where there is a steel spring finger . Water gets in where it locates towards the front .... BUT regardless of that , iv found at the rear of the spring finger , under hole is a 10mm × 10mm square hole in the frame on both sides which flows directly in onto the headliner. Joke of a design. I'm working on a fix at the minute 🤞

Hi everyone I'm new here and already had some great help from members, read loads of useful stuff, I've personally imported a 8p s3 in yellow for my wife from Japan it's not our first import I buy all our cars from Japan. I will try to add a couple of photos soon

Hello Charlie, Yes, the new battery has to be coded to the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi it took so long because the software to run electric power steering was not that well developed, if mechanical steering fails you can still steer, on the early electrical steering if it fails you are stuck, the main reason for the development of electric steering was emissions as it wont require the engine to drive the pump thus pushing up engine emissions and electric steering has been about on production cars since about 2008. Steve.

just to let you know i now have a reversing light!!! Was a bad connection at the bulb holder for the reversing bulb a little bending of the metal strips and all good Many thx again for your help much appreciated

Thanks Gareth

Yes agree re navigation software. I do know the Audi garage did update the software including MMI software but whether that is latest (unlikely) is anybody's guess and was just pleased I could use android auto wirelessly (plus fixing maps / navigation issues). The only OTA updates I have seen are for the navigation maps and each of those has been successful. If you are picking up from a dealer I would ask them to sort it out for you - I know mine have been great when I have asked them.

Well Steve, someone said I could be like a good wine, and will improve with age - I don’t believe it - but I am still blessing every day where I’m still able to do what I want to do. Some things are impossible, despite what my mind tells me! Take care and kind regards, Gareth.

Problem resolved. I replace the tailgate lock. My conclusion is that the lock did not "signal" door open and this causes the towbar to not release etc....

3% carbon monoxide is extraordinarily high. What was the CO level before you changed the induction system? The engine is getting on a bit at 175000 miles. What is the oil consumption? Does it smoke? Does it still have a functional EGR valve? Has the engine been modified in other ways?

It'll definitely need to be coded.

Hi Gareth, try TOYO PROXES my mate has just fitted those to his wife's golf and reckons its like driving on air compared to the Continentals he previously had and also reports back the wet grip is phenomenal. Steve.

No vat they are a very good garage use them alot " viking motors " in rotherham they have 5 star on google thanks gareth

Hi have they scanned the car for fault codes, if so what were they, confused by the list, high pressure and low pressure injectors not heard of them. Steve.

OK - mystery solved !!! Initial diagnostics pointed to a faulty stop/start generator (AKA Alternator). A replacement was ordered and required shipping from Germany as none in the UK. The part was delivered and then an instruction received by my Audi garage NOT TO FIT THE PART and run another check - per Audi instructions. This new check indeed revealed the root cause of the problem that I have been experiencing. The problem was due to a defective Auxiliary Belt Tensioner. Required parts were fitted and included a replacement belt - this was more a precaution than requirement as the defective belt tensioner may have contributed to premature excessive wear. I insisted that the car was taken for an extensive test drive before taking it back. All was well - and still is. I now have the car back (after 2-3 weeks off the road while awaiting parts). Will monitor the situation, but reasonably confident that this time Audi have got it right.

Hi folks, Ive still got a set of 4 OEM 17” Double spoke Alloys from my previous 2004 Allroad sat in my garage taking up space. they’re in almost perfect condition with only 1 wheel picking up a stone chip. (I’d had them refurbished a few months before I sold the car - timing chan started rattling, on the V8, that’s a £6k engine out job!) Can’t recall the offset but I think it’s different to the standard C5. FREE to collector- BS22 9QJ may be able to transport to various mid to southern England places or close as I get around a bit paddling.

Thanks Steve, I think they are probably cornering lights. I'll check later and let you know. Bryan.

If you wanted to keep the Audi’s reg and identity, it would be classified as *significant* changes to the suspension, running gear, powertrain etc which would mean an engineer’s report and IVA according to memory. However, it is perfectly legal to alter the body around as you wish so using the identity from the Isuzu would be less onerous. Not pain free, but less pain than the other way round. The rules about major components are what you need to read as well. Points for various bits and you need to score enough to avoid a Q plate. Finding a 2.8 diesel Trooper that hasn’t disintegrated into microscopic flakes of rust is also going to be a mission. I went through similar converting a Land Rover from a 2.25 petrol to 5.9 Cummins 6BT diesel. Having a friendly MOT guy to advise on various aspects was very helpful. And no, I wouldn’t do it again 😀 But good luck if you go for it.

Hi, I have tried many different ideas to stop water getting into the boot cavity. So, I recently covered all the joints between the boot liner and the boot with duct tape and left it for several weeks. Great, no water in the cavity. During the recent weeks I have started removing sections of the tape to see when the leak started again. This process took a while to do. I have now only tape on the side of the boot and around the rear of the light cluster, see photos. We’ve had no rain of late so will remove one of these and see what happens when it rains again. So far, no water in the cavity. Anybody who tries this, and it works, or doesn’t please let me know. Regards Ian IMG_0830.HEIC IMG_0958.HEIC

Hi can anyone help my car is throwing on the EML with the code for running lean on bank 1. Also it sometimes has a slight misfire. Do you how I can fix it?