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NathanR

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Posts posted by NathanR

  1. Okay, through laziness I ended up in this situation...  last Friday my rear brakes started grating, Saturday <1 mile always making a noise and Sunday I moved off my drive and my rear right wheel locked up. I set about ordering new rear brake pads through Eurocarparts click and collect for Monday. Usually most cars I have had the sound was a warning but no... Driving the 4 miles home on Sunday night I saw sparks flying from the wheel and then smoke so I stopped and doused it in water. managed to get the car home. Monday, walked 4 miles to Eurocarparts for pads, found I only had three upon dismantling the system and the piston on the rear right was worn down. replaced pads but still spongy. Tuesday walked 3 miles to halfords for a bleed kit and brake fluid, !Removed! that all over the drive... caliper was blowing it out past the piston. Tried alot of online places, around £69 for a reconditioned unit with one to two days delivery, scrap yards taking the &#33;Removed&#33; with quotes of around £101. Euro car parts had one for £108  and GSF had one for £109 with online discount applied... GSF was the closest so I took them up on that and then noticed they offered a £41.40 surcharge for the old unit. (Euro car parts also do this) and took the old unit off and walked another 3 miles. GSF were brilliant, compared the old unit to new, removed the surcharge and I was back on my way home. Fitted and then bled the brakes (after (not tight enough brake hose) incident) Surprised, after all this it only took around 500ml to bleed the system and restore the full brake power. I never knew you could throw a brake pad and let the piston drive into the disk and cause a fire... but hey ho... Audi ownership...

  2. As nobody has replied I'm guessing nobody has any idea... For the future if anyone else come accross this. I found a fault code, or a few... p3007 - camshaft position sensor no signal short circuit and a two others related to it. At first I thought it was a broken wire and had a look in the engine bay for an obvious kink. I tied it up with a cable tie and tonight I took the dogs out and its started straight away. got home when it was hot, turned it off and tried to start it... no deal and that fault code. cleared it and left it for two hours. started perfect and no fault code. Pretty sure it is a camshaft sensor getting hot and faulting... bad side, brd engine on a quatro... no I am not paying anyone 300 + quid to replace it... its a &#33;Removed&#33; 15 year old car..going to get all medieval on it and old school fix of running the wires outside the cam cover. The only thing i agree with is using a audi spare part, my next mission.

  3. Hi Guys, I have been working through everything i can find to fix the hot start problem with my 2007 2.0 tdi but am a loss. work carried out so far.. starter motor changed, new battery, new clutch sensor.new fuel filter... to put a clanger in it i think i had two issues,,, when it was a starter motor issue it sounded very different to what i have now.  from cold starts every time... since starter replacement the rpm is above what a hot start would require rpm wise. unplugging the Coolant sensor does get it running but it still takes time. a bit more info... idle stabilization full temp = Cylinder 1 0.22 cylinder 2 - 0.33 cylinder 3 -0.14 cylinder 4 0.30. injection quantity = 4.9 mgh duration 3.8 kwh Maf = 460 mgh @ 1049mbr. so whilst running all seems well at idle at temp but to get it started. when hot it turns over... fires momentarily after around 5 seconds and stops. one other thing is that when it plays up cruise control wont engage... I'm lost, this is beyond me. the car runs amazing once started, idle is fine, mpg is great, doesnt like a hard acceleration and will judder until it gets past 3k rpm unless its wet... and then it is fine... Im wondering if this is wiring related and maybee a split in the loom due to crappy 130K old engine bushes... doesnt explain the hot start issues though. I love the car but its getting to the point Im scared to go fuel up in case I get stuck there...

     

  4. Hi Guys, car was picked up last night at cost of the old owner. i tried shipley and the best quote was £107 for the 26mile journey...(£4+ per mile I am changing profession) i didn't see why I should pay that so got a bit a bit aggro with the trader. he tried to get me to pay £60 for his guys to pick the car up which i didn't think was fair. It was all going downhill until I mentioned I own two security dogs that are worked each weekend on industrial estates. Suddenly things changed.. My van is out of action as I have a bit of welding to do and they have an a4 with lots of chew marks and hair which probably helped. outcome, they picked the car up FOC and fixing it FOC. I still dont trust them though so probably going to get a compression test done and if needs be do a bit of head work just to be safe. Am documenting everything just in case https://studio.youtube.com/video/Bp9xleFOUNU/edit

  5. On 9/1/2021 at 8:16 AM, johnbhoy said:

    fule cap sayin 95 and 98 octane cheaked tesco fuel pump today e10 saying its 95 so am guesding its ok can anyone else add any info 

    IMG_20210827_203350.jpg

    Octane rating has nothing to do with the E10 debate mate. Octane rating denotes an ability to resist Knock (detonation) Hi Power cars usually run a high octane rating to prevent detonation and its usually the last transition from road to race fuel. The big Issue with E10 is its corrosive properties. 95 RON E10 and non E10 95 RON have the same Octane rating.  Octane rating isn't the issue, from what I can see it will effect classic cars that sit for months on end rather than daily drivers.

     

    • Like 1
  6. Outside of the mainstream media I have found it is a particular problem to classics that are stored for months being that it is hydroponic, it may also be corrosive to old fuel lines and gaskets. I think the AA quoted it as being around 1% less economical than "regular" fuel. I guess time will tell. Many countries have adopted E10 years ago and with that I fail to believe Audi didn't see it coming and adapt to it prior to inception prior to many warranty claims had they ignored it.

  7. Also I love the car, I so want to keep her... when running right she is a dream to drive. Its like driving an armchair that instantly turns into a monster that handles Impeccably. I can drive it as a steady economic comfortable daily drive but also have an exhilarating fire breathing weakened warrior.

    Despite being a pain in the bottom to work on I have loved every minute of it lol. Determined to keep her running.

  8. Hi Steve,

    Thanks for the reply but unfortunately it was a private sale so little or no recourse. However things have moved on today.... for the worst I may add. i took the car out for a ride today with the aim of initiating a DPF cycle but half way around I noticed a weird noise and bizarrely the car was taking off like a rocket... to the point I was thinking that it would be a pain in the a** driving in town. 20 mins later I stopped at the shops and when I came out it wouldn't start! I sat for ten mins then turned it over pumping the accelerator and after about 5 seconds she fired up, Idled perfect and drove like a daemon but with this hideous scraping noise. I got home and lifted the bonnet and found the noise was coming from the cam belt inspection cover. Took it off and found the belt so loose it was scraping against the cover and skipping teeth on the exhaust side. The cam belt and water pump was changed in august and I suspect it was cowboy job, they have been contacted and agreed to change everything due to my evidence but we are now haggling transport costs being some 26 miles away... Have a look at the video... I consider myself very lucky... https://youtu.be/ij20sTbxd8g

    22 minutes ago, Steve Q said:

    Can't help with the specific problems but if you bought it from a dealer then you are entitled to a full refund up to 30 days from sale. 

     

  9. Hi All! New Audi owner here and so far loving the car. The quality feels amazing and just love the car... but have one issue that is puzzling me and would like to ask a bit of help with. when I brought the car 2 weeks ago it had a multitude of problems I have worked through with OBDeleven and sorted out reasonably easy but I have one which is eluding me. Normal driving is fine but if you floor it hard and the turbo boosts the car stumbles  (Mainly in second but does happen in third gear)if you feed the power in all is okay and I have replicated this many times. I get the following codes in OBDeleven 

    OBDeleven data log


    Date: 2021-09-11 15:26

    VIN: WAUZZZ8EX8A006246
    Car: Audi A4
    Year: 2008
    Body type: Saloon
    Mileage: 206460 KM

    ---------------------------------------------------------------
    01 Engine

    System description: R4 2.0l PPD1.3 G
    Software number: 03G906018AQ
    Software version: 9973
    Hardware number: 03G906018AQ
    Serial number: XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
    Coding: 0000172

    Trouble codes:
    P3007 - Camshaft Position Sensor No signal Short circuit to B+
    static

    OBDeleven data log


    Date: 2021-09-10 15:49

    VIN: WAUZZZ8EX8A006246
    Car: Audi A4
    Year: 2008
    Body type: Saloon
    Mileage: 206390 KM

    ---------------------------------------------------------------
    01 Engine

    System description: R4 2.0l PPD1.3 G
    Software number: 03G906018AQ
    Software version: 9973
    Hardware number: 03G906018AQ
    Serial number: XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
    Coding: 0000172

    Trouble codes:
    P3008 - Camshaft Position Sensor Signal outside tolerance Short circuit to ground
    Intermittent

    To be clear each code was generated and then cleared so it was a new iteration after each time the car was floored. I have this theory, It may be flawed but I suspect flooring it is enough for the engine to flex the mounts and travel enough break the loom temporarily and cut power. I have had a good as possible look at the loom from the camshaft sensor to the socket near the oil filter and then it disappears into god knows where... I suspect a point in the loom is either shorting or going open circuit with a sudden engine movement. however I cant find anything anywhere that leads to a weak point in the a4.... hence the "theory" It really is a lovely car to drive overall, I would just love to fix this last issue. any help gratefully appreciated.

    Best Regards

     

    Nathan

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