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Showing results for tags 'sensor'.
Found 11 results
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Hi fellow audi'ers. Im currently experiencing power loss and alot of black smoke out the back of my audi (when I put my foot down). I have read it with VCDS and the following error is visible: 8187 - Exhaust Gas Temp Bank 1 Sensor 1 (G235) P2080 00 [101] implausible signal. Can anyone explain exactly where this sensor is as ive googled and they all give a location but im unsure where that location is on my car. One thing to note is my car is the 2.0tdi S Line 170 with the stupid CNHA engine. Any pics or advice would be greatly appreciated. Sorry if the pictures aren't clear enough.
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Turbocharger wastegate actuator( code 2565, Circuit high)
kassi posted a topic in Audi A3 (8V) Forum
Hello everyone. I got into some trouble after buying a used 50000 km Audi A3 8v. Just after a week i got this EPC and Engine check light when i was driving. EPC light goes off every night and when i go to work again next morning it shows up again. ON IDLE: Turbocharger actuator voltage : 3.68 -3.71V Turbocharger wastegate position: 0 -3% Turbocharger was changed recently by the previous owner. I dont know if they changed the actuator or not but it looks good in condition no rust. I recorded couple of Actuator parameters with OBD II Scanner. Driving on highway i let the throttle go (no throttle) around 90km/h suddenly the EPC and Engine Check Light came on(attaching video with it). And the actuator signal voltage went to 4.99v which actually stays at around 3.7v without epc and engine light. After EPC light (seems like actuator position sensor failure) the actuator stays at 0% and i get Poor acceleration. Help would be really appreciated. Screen_Recording_20230621_232903_1.mp4 -
Hi All, Has anyone had the following fault code before? 18112/P1704 (Relates to kickdown switch) Any further advise/experience to repair the fault would be appreciated. Car drives great as normal, however engine management light is on. A4 B9 3.0 V6 TDI Quattro (Auto)
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Hi all. My Audi A3 1.6 petrol engine has been hunting (over-revving when idling) for a few years now. Last year it was an issue in the MOT as the mechanics found it hard to get it to idle at low enough revs to pass the emissions test. The garage have looked into it and have suggested it could be an oxygen sensor fault. This is speculative though, so for now I haven't asked them to fit a new one (£180ish for the part before labour). Has anyone had a similar problem with a hunting engine that they've managed to fix? Thanks.
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Hi all, This is only my second post very new to this forum so hey all! Just wanted to find some guidance on a problem I have recently had come up and I don't know where to go with it. Car is Audi A5 Cabriolet 2012 1.8 tfsi milage 54,855. The code is P0068 (have attached photo stating the codes details). Basically it doesnt point my in any direction of it it's the MAP sensor or the MAF sensor. And if it did where are they? Might sound dumb but I'm no techy by any standard but was just hoping to find some guidance and this one. The photo I've attached is my engine and he area I believe the MAF sensor would be but after doing some research online I seem to not be able to see a MAF sensor?. Anyone please! Help 🤣😂🤣 Ash
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got ' gearbox malfunction can continue to drive' pop up on my dash, took my car for a diagnostics at audi they couldnt find anything wrong with the car, took it to an independant diagnostics and it came up with 3 codes... sensor for transmission speed 2.... pressure regulator valve clogged/dirty.... clutch activation implausible. spoke to numerous places and they dont seem to know what the problem is. My guess is that theres something wrong on the ECU? if so can i get it repaired or will it be a new ECU? Any help at all please!
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Alright guys, Hope someone on here can help me with this problem I’ve been trying to solve as I’m really stuck. So when it was snowing a few weeks back unfortunately I hit a mound of snow and it disconnected the oil level sensor plug…. Which was then dragged along the ground for about 20 miles before I had chance to look underneath properly. Immediately after the plug was cracked but we managed to reconnect it and the warning light went out, but a couple days later it managed to fall out and completely destroyed itself. I’ve so far bought another 3 pin Bosch plug from simtek and replaced it but this hasn’t rid the car of the warning light. The engine is: 2.0 TDI BKD The oil level sensor part number is: 6pr008079-003 - What is the colour correct colour wires for each pin? - Does this type of issue need you to have the bonnet close while you reconnect the plug? - Does anyone know the part number for the loom that connects to the oil level sensor as I suspect the wires might be damaged for being snagged around under the car To make matters worse, when I first managed to get the car on the ramp for inspection the picture I took focused on my glove and I cannot distinguish which way I’m holding it Any help would be appreciated! Thanks
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Just bought my A6 and discovered that the oil and engine temp gauges are under reading. (water temp might reach 70 rather than the 90 i'm expecting it to read when the engine is up to temp.) Its a Dec 2000 A6 avant 1.9 with 153,000 on the clock. As both gauges are affected I'm guessing that it might be something in the instrument cluster, rather than the individual senders. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Its a great car and I'm loving it :) Thanks in anticipation.
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I’m sure this has been asked before but...... I’ve been told there is ‘probably’ an issues with the rear parking sensor module. It gives a long beep when reverse is selected and then nothing...... So can anyone help me locating the parking sensor module, which was fitted as an option, on my 2009 A3 P8 and if it’s easy to replace the module. Thanks Andy -
So... I've had this problem since I bought my S4. The previous owner said he'd replaced the sensor with a genuine part just before selling it but if I'm honest I have my doubts. The sensor looks brand new but genuine is debatable, cheap eBay jobby looks more realistic. I only have a basic fault reader (not VCDS) and this shows an issue with the driver side pre-cat/upstream sensor. I'll scan the code again and add an update, as I can't remember exactly what it was. What I'm wondering is whether this issue could be caused by the Milltek sports cats? I know that sports cats can cause problems with lambda sensors, but I would have expected it to be post-cat/downstream sensors. If anyone has had a similar problem I'd appreciate some input. Audi want around £180 for a new sensor and I really don't know if this will solve the problem. The wiring all looks good so I don't think that's the issue. My next step is to swap the two pre-cat sensors, and see if the fault changes to the other bank. If so, faulty sensor. If not, it's a whole different problem. For anyone that's changed the pre-cat sensors on a B7 S4 I'm sure you'll appreciate that this isn't a 5 minute job. I should also note that I've had a few misfire codes on random cylinders. I've never felt a misfire but it is a little rough on idle sometimes. I thought the lambda code may have been related to the misfire initially so changed out the coils and plugs. The coil packs and spark plugs are now brand new (both NGK) so this shouldn't be the issue. I suspect it's linked to the lambda fault, but I could of course be wrong. Am I missing something obvious? Is it the sports cats? Is the misfire likely to be related? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi I've recently bought an A4 convertible (2.4 V6 petrol) which has reversing sensors. These worked just fine for a couple of weeks but now I get either a continuous tone or random beeps - a bit like morse code. And then just every now and then, they work OK. I asked the garage to plug the diagnostic in and they got no error code suggesting it was probably a loose connection. And now I can't find a single auto electrician in the area (I live in Warwickshire) so I guess I need to try and fix it myself - the (very good) garage won't touch it. Any ideas? I can't even work out how to get at the wiring as it looks like you have to remove the bumper and I don't want to get in to that....
