ucb

Magnet

Thanks. Yes it is working at the moment.

Thanks for the quick feedback

Done the wd40, see how it goes for few weeks.

Cheers

ucb

A1 tdi 2014.

The fuel tank filler flap will only open if I click the key fob to open the car even when the car is already unlocked?

I am sure that previously it was open when the car doors were unlocked?

Any light on this?

Thanks

Hi

on tdi versions (maybe others) it sits above the air filter box, engine compartment passenger side.

Could be an expensive electric driven pump up behind the wheel arch passenger side. Its possible to see the cap for the fluid topup way down the engine compartment passenger side behind the headlight unit.

Hope thats helpful.

Hi

I think S lines had that as standard but maybe thats not the case.

Otherwise, the "mirror switch" on the drivers door just to front of the window switches has  - left to adjust the passenger door mirror - right for the drivers side  - and all the way round to point the switch indent to the rear of the car. The mirrors should then fold in.

You may have details in the car documents giving "codes"  as to the original fit. There are on-line chats to work the codes out to see in your car was fitted for /with.

Hope that  helps

Thanks Steve

Hi All

Bit of a late one on this subject, wish I hadn't had it done but I think toooo late now.

However, I seem to remember for Audi A1 tdi, there was a letter that said, apart from other related things, there was an addition to the air inlet somewhere of a "wire mesh" to "improve" the air flow.

Can anyone confirm that and/or other, and where this "mesh" would have been fitted?

Also, has anyone looked into "reversing" the process to get back to the performance/economy that we had before the event?

Maybe, someone tried some of the "black box" tuneup devices to improve performance?

I would be interested to hear any of these.

My car has just past 105,000

Many thanks

Gareth

Rule of thumb ish. The vehicle supply is a nominal 12v, if all is well a resting battery should be 12.8v. The charging system should quickly go to 14.5 ish to maybe 15v and then be controlled by a volts regulator. And so I expect that the steering pump will be cable of 15v at least and if it will handle (by specification) a plus 3v increment it would also handle a 3v down below the nominal 12v to 9v. I havent been able to get a full manufacturers spec on the pump, its all based on "general" practices.  

On 6/12/2023 at 7:49 PM, Magnet said:

Keeping it simple Bri, it sounds as if the battery has done its time. It’s voltage under load is the important parameter. 
Note - down to less than 10v at cranking. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Gareth

Many thanks for your reply. Yes, battery may well turn out to be the issue but If the rated voltage for this unit is 12v and it must be capable of 15v to cover for a "charging" cycle" is it possible that its lower end spec would be 9v  ie operating voltage spec 12v+/- 3v. And so it should not "fault" out at 9v ?  Also if the battery is low why do other components not fault out?

 Battery may be cheaper than the pump?

Bri

A1 dci 2014 power steering fault light on at start-up.

Typically, when the car has been stood for a few days at start up the power steering light comes on. After maybe 1 or 2 mins at idle the light goes out and power steering is restored.

Typical voltage readings that apply are Battery voltage                              
                                
at switch on there was no fault                                
                                
Battery charges to                     14.7            
                                
Switch off - battery drops to  after  a rest period                    12.7            
                                
engine off and full lights                     12.2            
                                
recovers after a period to                     12.4            
                                
A few days later:-                                
                                
at 12 degrees                    12.4            
                                
Cranking                    9.9            
                                
Then charging quickly to to                    14+        still no fault    
                                
After 7 days                                
                                
11/6/22023                                
                                
Temp                    18.5            
                                
ignition off voltage                    12.32            
                                
ignition on                    12.05        warning light  on    
                                
Cranking                    10 ish            
                                
seconds after start                     14.6            
                                
warning light out after about a minute steering ok                                
                                
idle voltage after 2 mins                     14.7            
                                
switch off and after 5 mins battery volts at                    12.86         

I ready some say it is due to a poor battery which may be but if the pump's specification for operating voltage is a nominal 12volts then I would expect the operation parameters be up to 15volts (  ie maximum charge from the alternator) and so taking the lower operational voltage to be a similar figure down to 9/10volts.

Any help with this one please and maybe some one has a wiring diagram to also indicate the cable terminal point?

Many thanks