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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

they are an absolute pain in the bum to change. but going in thru the wheel well is the quickest and "easiest" Make sure you have a axel stands and not working under there with the car held up by the jack. I use wheel blocks and axel stands every time now after a near miss some years ago that seen a shogun fall off a jack and narrowly miss taking a friends arm off at the shoulder.

Update: Just booked my car in for the service and cambelt replacement, to be told it has a chain belt so no need for replacement. Happy days!

End of story then Adam, and was to do with changes of number plates as was suggested. I’ll let you claim it was solved by yourself!

Instrument cluster problems happen from time to time on A3s of that era. A new cluster from Audi will cost you silly money, whereas the old cluster can be repaired by companies such as ECU Testing for less than £300. You will have to remove, post, and refit the cluster if you choose to have it repaired. Scan through this forum's history for examples of people in a similar position who have had their clusters repaired successfully.

My speculation from the phrase "running out of road" is that the braking is harsh enough to trigger the ABS system. The rapid sequence of brake & release pulses can cause vibration.

IV just bought my first ever Audi and classic. My Dad had one over 20 years ago and I thought I would follow in his footsteps. Drove 10 hours up north to sunny Scotland and gave me no problems on the way. Hope to get it running more smoothly for next summer. Does anyone have any advice on owning, driving and maintaining one? I'm a car guy but not overly confident when it comes to tinkering with cars mechanically. It's a Audi 80 16v 2.0. Thanks Chris

Thanks for letting me join. Traveled 10 hours to get this beauty to take it back up north to Scotland a week ago. Needs a few things fixed before next summer. My first classic car.

Hi some zoon of an engineer found out that a bag of silicate in the cooling system helped keep the antifreeze from deteriorating, they used to put the bags in the heater matrix but the problem is the plastic bags deteriorate and burst releasing the silicate granules in to the water which blocks the heater matrix, plan B later was to put a large bag in the expansion tank, the end result was the same the granules block the matrix but on my car you had to buy a new expansion tank and possibly a new matrix, the only reason I got away with mine was removing the bag from the expansion tank and flushing the matrix both ways with a jet wash then flush the block with the jet wash, it was just that my mechanic mentioned that some he had worked on had the bags in the matrix so they had to fit a new one. Steve.

This is how you change it: 2.5 Renewing bulb for dipped beam head‐ lights Removing – Switch off ignition and take out ignition key. – Turn light switch to position “0”. – Remove appropriate front wheel. – Remove relevant front wheel housing liner ⇒ Rep. gr. 66 . – Loosen locking bolt -1- a few turns. – Release retaining tabs -arrows- and detach housing cover for dipped beam headlights from headlight housing. Audi A8 2003 ➤ Electrical system - Edition 08.2014 132 Rep. gr.94 - Lights, bulbs, switches - exterior But you can take the bumper off and headlight out if you wish. Pictures for reference to show what it looks like behind the wig and bumper etc.

hi darragh i had the same issue on a 14 A5 and it was the pipe just under the egr valve,its shaped like a horseshoe and a pig of a pipe to change especially the 2 bolts at the back,it solved my problem tho,is this the same pipe you changed?Greg

Hi Everyone, a quick introduction here. In June I picked up a new A3 TFSI S Line Black Edition in Ascari blue. After a few minor quality issues I am now extremely happy with my purchase. Not going to bore everyone with the minute details but I had to deal with: 1. Loose number plate on the rear (Dealer fitted wrong clips) 2. Wrong puddle lights (no Audi rings) had to go back twice as they fitted exactly the same (incorrect lights) on the first visit 3. MMI software problems (settings not being saved) more on this in a separate post. We think we have solved the problem.

Fantastic news, glad you got it open without causing damage 😊

Hi folks, gareths method worked an absolute treat. Everyone's advice is much appreciated

It appears all I had to do was turn the spare wheel upside down then it accommodates the speaker cassette! 🙂

Car was in Dealer today. They say they cannot fix my problem and have ordered a new controller switch. I asked if this was an older version of the switch in order to bypass the temperature control but they were very deliberate in avoiding that situation only saying that a new switch is on order and that would fix the issue. The technician agreed with me at the start of the process that they were not working this morning in 12degrees and the rain droplets were visible even after a 20 min drive into the dealership.

Hi if you are selling the car how would you feel as a new owner when the belt goes bang a couple of months later, which it will, as Gareth pointed out this site is littered with stories of no milage cars that have thrown the belt at the five year marker, sold as seen with a recent cam belt change sounds far more alluring than just sold as seen, it might actually get you more money on the sale. Steve.

Hello Rob, Sorry to hear of your problem. ‘No valves etc. damaged….’. The best way to confirm that is to get a compression test carried out on that bank to hopefully confirm your belief. That has to be your starting point for considering the car’s future. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Gareth. It’s reassuring to know that I haven’t missed any key angles on how to proceed. I shall post again when I get the outcome decision.

My concern here is why ha e you had to pay for the Audi software. Surely as an Audi specialist they should have this already, or make the investment voluntarily. Technically you've invested in the business as they can use that software on other cars too.

Hi from personal experience I would not go for any Audi with that kind of milage, Diesel/Petrol as you will be entering the land of excessive expense, I would really take as Gospel Steve Qs advice about the VW cars as I have recently discovered the Passat as my new cab and have covered 20k since this February with no problems other than servicing and tyres and new brakes all of which cost a third of what the Audi cost me, power wise its 150bhp and gets down the road quickly, economy is probably about 30% better than the Audi and the 1.9 Steve mentioned has just gone on to the list of engines that will do in excess of 400,000 miles if maintained correctly, I would also give you a little info from a friend who is a trader that most cars now are bought by Cinch or We Buy Any Car, they keep all the good ones to re sell and dump anything with real problems in to the auctions. Steve.

Hi the only thing I would personally change is the glow plugs, as for the loom just get it checked in other words if it isn't broken don't fix it, the glow plugs are probably well past their sell by date and well worth changing as they contribute a lot to engine function especially on start up on colder days as it stops unburnt fuel from killing the catalyst. Steve.

Exactly lots of owners in short succession is often a sign of a problem with the car. Definitely avoid

Hello Jamie, Thanks for coming back and filling in the detail. At a time where most part exchanges are usually traded out direct to local traders, I ask why is this car at an auction site. I know some large warehouses do trade only via. auction, but….so do WBAC. Remember, you buy at auction without any trial, and very very limited access to history chases etc, and you get it with all faults - whether disclosed or not. You simply buy on price. If it need work, can you afford to be without it while it gets repaired? Have you done a DVLA Vehicle check on the reg. no. to see when the last V5 was issued - can give useful information on length of previous ownership. Also MOT history check? Kind regards, Gareth.

I'm going to advise against this. The 2.0tfsi is known for piston ring failures and engine failures. Research it on here and on Google.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 looks a lovely car. And Scotland is beautiful. I did the nc500 4 years ago and loved it. Sorry to hear you've had problems.

Thanks Sam, Please keep us up to date on the outcome. Kind regards, Gareth.

So it turns out 90% of the faults were down to a front right wheel speed sensor and outside ambient air sensor, all DTS have now cleared apart from the handbrake malfunction, I get implausible signal terminal 15 , any ideas??

My guess is laminated glass that is delaminating as water seeps into the edges.

Hi my name is Stephen and I own an A6 S Line 45 Tfsi Quattro. In Firmament blue with rotor grey leather. We have had Florence, that’s her name, yes I know it’s daft, but all my cats and bikes have had a name, since new in March 2022. I have read your message to newbies and I’m not going to post and run. However my reason for coming here is that she has developed a fault. I’m not going into that here today as it’s not the time and place, and I am trying to introduce myself. I will post her fault once introductions are over. I'm a retired Accountant, I love cars, motorcycles , hiking and gardening. I have posted some pictures of Florence on your post a pic thread. For good measure, here is another of Florence the A6 and Vicky the R1M . have a great day , Stephen 😊

Hi use Vanish foam fabric cleaner to remove the stains, when dry give the seats a good coating of Scotchguard. Steve.

Hi Guys I've just received an email from Audi Customer Services in which they state :- We have been contacted by Audi UK who have advised a system fix will be released on 25 January 2025 which will repair the faults you are experiencing. Hope this helps with whatever decisions you make regarding keeping/ rejecting your cars.

Following are the Types of Car Exhaust Smoke: 1. Black Smoke Black smoke indicates that the engine is burning too much fuel, a condition known as running rich. This can be caused by several factors that disrupt the air-fuel mixture. 2. White Smoke It usually means that coolant is being burned in the engine, which means that something is drastically wrong. The most common cause of this is a blown head gasket, which can quickly lead to an overheating engine. 3. Blue Smoke Blue smoke is a clear sign that your engine is burning oil. The liquid can leak into the combustion chamber where it is burned along with fuel. You'll probably notice your car misfiring when you turn the keys in your ignition, or find your vehicle shakes more than usual when idle. 4. Grey Smoke If the smoke from the exhaust pipe is either grey or bluish-tinged, it generally means that your engine is burning oil inside the combustion chamber. Burning oil could be due to many causes, from leaky valve seals to bad piston rings.

part numberdescriptionremarkunitmodel 1 8E0 821 105 B Wingleft1 (1) 8E0 821 106 B Wingright1

Sort of. ABS prevents the wheels locking up which means the car can still be steered. (A tyre that is sliding on the road can not provide traction, braking or steering.) It does not make the brakes more effective. The penalty for ABS is the vibration, which can be quite violent, felt throughout the car as the brakes are rapidly applied and released. If you have a partly seized caliper be grateful for ABS for preventing the car going into a spin. ABS in those circumstances is not unneeded.

Well I decided to bite the bullet, and treat myself to a new car, I now have a brand new Q3 35 TFSI S Line i.5 petrol.

Hi peeps. Just picked up a stunning chocolate brown Q5. 3.0 V6 TDI S-Line. Absolutely in love with it and just on a mission to fix a couple of niggles lol Just turned 42, living on the Essex, Cambridge and Suffolk borders.

I changed a wheel on my A3 several years ago after hitting a pothole and damaging one. No issue with TPMS. As far as I am aware, VAG don't use sensors in the wheels. There are magnetic rings on the wheel hubs with pick up sensors positioned next to them. Rotational values are stored and any changes at one or more wheels indicates a possible pressure difference, ie a puncture. It's the same setup for the TPMS on my Skoda Octavia VRS.

If there's resistance I wonder if the car thinks there's something blocking the mechanism or boot latch (even if there isn't). Similar to an anti trap feature. Might be worth inspecting all parts of the system for any trapped foliage etc. I remember a member once having an issue struggling with their A3 convertible roof not working and it was because a shoe had got trapped.

I bet the key fob needs a new battery.

Hi, this is my third Audi, I've previously had two Cabriolets - very impressed with my A5 and I'm still trying to get used to all the electronic goodies!!

Does indeed look like water pump Donald - if belt driven pump. Kind regards, Gareth.

This has happened to me twice and covered by warranty- it’s a known fault.

If you're looking at retrofits members have used Audi retrofits and autologics and been happy with the results

Hi Sachs/LUK are the same company and are the only suppliers to most of the VAG group with the exception of Seat who use Valeo clutches on some models where the engines are SPA units. Steve.

Thanks for that, Words have never been my strong point, but yes that is what i meant

Hello Baillie, A Moderator’s view in case it helps. I think it’s understandable that the confusion has occurred due to the wording. Detail is so important, so perhaps it will help others if I rephrase this for you:- ‘Someone has previously removed the motor from my sunroof assembly. Would someone please be able to help with a part number for the motor which should be fitted?’ My suggestion:- have you tried the website of LLL Parts. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

For comparison, I have a 2021 2.0 40tsi petrol. Currently on a smidge over 30k miles. Besides one oil change at 20k I’ve never had to top up and it doesnt use oil according to the electonic oil level check.

Hi it does not make sense, if you have not already got a motor why do you want to buy one, it wont matter how many part sites we suggest you wont get a part number for it if it was not fitted in the first place as they all work on VIN numbers. Steve.

Dear Audi enthusiasts, I sent a photo back in May'24 of my newly purchased S7 (see below)which I'm really pleased with, but my other family members weren't happy that they hadn't been included in the picture and so here they are!