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Had the same issue. Just give the polystyrene holder a firm pull and it will come out.

I had a loose wheel speed sensor that was throwing up similar problems with warning lights, might be worth checking mate.

It appears you can, you are 100% right. Matrix LED headlights Upgrade your headlights with Audi Matrix LED technology. Individual diodes automatically switch between dipped and main beam and provide maximum illumination of the road, without dazzling other road users. Light function package Unlock an extra lighting function that adapts to surroundings to enhance visibility when on motorways, cornering and at junctions. The Light function package also includes lighting ‘animations’ that play when locking and unlocking your car. High beam assist Upgrade to High beam assist to enable the headlights to automatically detect oncoming traffic, the rear lights of other road users and light sources in built-up areas. The High beam is switched on or off automatically, depending on the traffic situation.

I replaced the CCM in my '03 A6 C5 1.9TDI with one that had the identical part number a couple of months ago and it was completely plug and play. Your key fobs will need to be reprogrammed however, but it's a really quick and straightforward job if you have two. I posted a guide in the C5 forum that explains it step by step. Hope that helps you mate. Edit I've just noticed the CCM in your avant ends in an N and the saloon in a K, weirdly the one in my saloon is an N, go figure.

First of all I must thank you all for the imput into my Insurance woes. I have now received my new renewal quote from Admiral. It has come in a few pence short of £2k. Which I am more than happy about. So I go on another year driving my fabulous E-Tron GT. Tony

You can order the matrix lights on the myAudi app. I think one off £1 for a month initially on most the in app addons but thereafter user term choice and price dependant on pack.

Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones. p.s. Please avoid using non specific locations such as U.K., England etc. etc.

From the 2018 broshure it looks like it is only in the City Assist pack. Front pre-sense is standard, but rear only with pack. This is the City Assist info and has 3 parts: Audi Side Assist When activated, the system aids the driver when changing lanes. Audi Side Assist monitors the area behind the vehicle, using radar sensors located discreetly in the rear bumper, informing the driver with a visual warning signal in the door mirror if there is a vehicle in their blind spot or approaching quickly from behind Pre-sense Rear Monitors vehicles following from behind, and if a potential collision is detected, the driver is first warned visually via a flashing light. Audi Pre-sense Basic measures (e.g. closing windows) are initiated and then if a collision is unavoidable, the system will tighten the front seat belts. The system is deactivated when towing Cross Traffic Assist Front Within system limits, warns the driver of traffic crossing in front or to the side of the vehicle, using vehicle sensors. The system first alerts the driver visually and then acoustically via the MMI. A brake jolt is applied if a potential collision is detected. The system can also assist the driver at crossings and exits with poor visibility, and warn against a possible collision with oncoming traffic detected from the side

Hi Frank, I agree with all the comments you've received so far, but cant emphasise enough the importance of the offset. I have gone through a wheel changing exercise myself on my Audi and it took me months and months to find wheels I liked and that would fit. The offset can determine where on the hub the wheel will sit and whether its likely to fowl any brake or suspension components. Fortunately there are easily accessible websites that can give you a guide indication of how your new wheel will fit, they will ask you for your existing wheel fitment and the new wheel fitment your proposing. They will ask you for the existing and new wheel radius and width, and also existing and new tyre sizes. They will also ask you for the offset of both existing and new wheels. The offset is often referred to as the 'ET' followed by 2 numbers and this is usually stamped in the wheels casting on the back of the rim. Just as an example my existing wheels had an offset of ET31 (stamped on the reverse of the rim) and the new wheels I was proposing had an offset of ET40. If you want a smooth and not so bumpy ride, try and and avoid tyres with a profile of less that 40. Hope this is helpful

I'll be watching this thread with interest as I have a Cobra alarm fitted to my 1988 Coupe GT. I want to remove/replace it but the car works at the moment........

Yes its resolved, they replaced the outer cv joint again , they think the 1st one was faulty out of the box . Regards

Right guys, I sent all 6 injectors off to be tested, low and behold, injector 3 has zero flow on idle. Got it rebuild, fitted it this evening, and I've got a smooth idle! Took it for a drive, no fault codes and no lights. Low rail pressure seems to have disappeared now too. Just want to say a massive thank you to everyone that gave advise. I can finally get back to work now 😂! Cheers once again!

My bet would be the alarm too. The only way to find it would be to trave the wires from the fusebox. This should be obvious as they'll look different to the rest of the stock loom. Unfortunately these aftermarket alarms can be a problem. If you get a chance watch the old top gear challenge with the 3 series convertibles. Hamonds one had a similar problem.

If this is the engine you have the red box is the electronic EGR control valve, the green box is the vacuum operated EGR cooling flap solenoid.

You can buy sticker kits from ebay that go over the original switches. Very common issue on Audi's of that era. My A6 is the same. https://ebay.us/m/8AMJc7

Just to add if you're needing someone to fit it, then it's worth looking at autologics or Audi retrofits as members have used them and been pleased with the results.

Can’t hear the video, but to be honest between road noice and background noise, these sort of videos rarely identify culprit. If you had new outer CV joint, that may have contributed, especially if drive shaft boot was torn and and CV joint was open to the elements and contaminated. if you’ve got a worn wheel bearing then you’ll hear constant reverberating sound, around about 40-50mph. You might be able to pinpoint if you jack up car, and hold the coil spring and get someone to rotate the wheel. Any friction on the bearing will transfer to the spring which you should feel. Straight forward if your spanner handy, although I hate generation 2 bearings which are the press in hub variety on VW Polos for example. If generation 3 wheel bearing, then they are held in place with triple square bolts. Useful to have air hammer as the bearing is usually welded in with oxide corrosion if an alloy strut. You’ll need a breaker bar, torque wrench, etc. Fit quality F.A.G. Bearings given labour involved.

Thanks Robert, But you are assuming it was correctly serviced before you bought it at 2 years old and at 21k miles. In terms of seeking any contribution from Audi, then assumptions are simply meaningless. You will need to wander into an Audi dealer and request a print out copy of the on-line service history - and hope it was ‘serviced strictly to the book’. Now on to its servicing under your ownership, as was asked - could you now tell us about that, so we can better advise you?

Welcome to the forum Ricky you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Nice you've got a two car Audi family 🙂

Thank you. One day somebody will bless you for that information.

Hi I got a bit muddled, main failure is EPC. If you just have ESP it's a fault with the traction control and ABS. If it ESP then it could be a sensor at the wheels but you have both lights on the dash, it could be a faulty brake light switch on the pedal.

Hi all. Really sorry I forgot to post. This is how it went with Audi, Oldham. The technician told me that the diagnostic found no faults and that the issue was that I had deselected intelligent coasting in the MMI. He told me that he activated it again, drove up and down the motorway, and all is well. So…when I went to collect the car, and although I told him that the intelligent coasting mode had been switched off since new, he was adamant that this is what the issue was. Anyway, since being plugged in the diagnostic, and intelligent coasting off again, it’s back to normal !? I think a reset of the ‘brain’ of the car must have been done, but I wasn’t told that. in conclusion, when the electric charge is depleted, it shuts off the petrol engine into regen electric just as it should. The complete opposite to the issue I had, which was that the car never shut off the petrol engine, and instead decided to charge the battery, which resulted in sub 20 mpg for two weeks of driving. Again, sorry for this very late post and that I can’t be more helpful. Andrew

Thanks Gareth i am going to buy the full section this is how they are usually sold on eBay it also seems to be the cheapest option, the part number i am using for a comparison is from the driveshaft difficult to use part number from hub, no barcode or sticker part number. So I am buying the same part number driveshaft with the hub attached, I have now sourced and purchased one I’m hoping this will be the one. Fingers crossed. Thanks again for your response I appreciate it. Yes you would think that but no I am doing the hunting for the parts. Mine have been removed now so I am comparing parts via images and numbers but none seem to be exact.

I’m about 90% complete with this job now I’m just waiting on a replacement spring as one of the ones I was sent was incorrect. Ordered on Monday but still not here frustratingly. It’s went a lot better than I was expecting a few tricky bolts etc and don’t get me started on the electric connector for the headlight levelling sensor! Here are some pics of the progress: I was able to keep the callipers connected by firstly removing the shock and passing it under the upper control arm which saved a bit of time. it’s been quite satisfying renewing the rear end with new components, bolts etc. Here is a better picture of why I replaced my subframe in the first place: It was actually the same both sides. Word of warning treat your subframe now before it’s too late! Also I couldn’t figure out how to remove the bushes and the ones on the replacement subframe were far better than mine were so I will be sending those back. I will update here if I run into any alignment issues. At the moment the subframe is only partially fitted to allow the spring replacement.

Got the same engine in a 2017 A4 Allroad. The 3.0 TDI and Tiptronic 8-speed is wonderful to drive. Loads of low end torque. On A6, then you have air suspension as standard. Normally pretty bullet proof, but these cars are getting on a bit, so due diligence and all that. If you have access to VCDS, then worth scanning the car for any historic faults. This will be Euro 6, so have AdBlue, DPF and EGR. Use premium diesel and don't do short start stop journeys. Make sure nothing has been deleted. Suspension wise, if over 100k miles check advisories on previous MOTs. Upper arm and front lower trailing arms (hydra bushes). Check all the toys work. Sat Nav will likely need update, and potentially need air con regas. History is critical, so that's oil changes every 5-8k miles, 10k miles at a push. Rear diff gear oil change by 100k miles and ZF make service kit for transmission. Personally I'd do by 8 years or 80k miles. Check bodywork, but normally age well with very little rust. Rear subframes known to get crusty, so wash down and coat with Lanoguard. Not aware of issues with panoramic sunroof if fitted. B8 A4 platform was different and plagued with issues. Clean out drain channels. Specific grease from VW to lube guides, although expensive.

febi bilstein 48801 Pressure Reservoir for vaccum system

New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

While I am sceptical of these fuel additives, I am open to persuasion by long term results. The treatment may solve a sticking pressure switch in the short term but I question if it can solve the more fundamental problem of the exhaust system being blocked by soot, which is what the DPF switch is telling you. If the treatment fails to work I understand it is possible to induce an exhaust regeneration with VCDS or similar equipment. Others here may be able to confirm this point.

I understand now. If the car has a rear facing camera or radar linked to the brakes than it makes sense to disable that system when towing. I assume, perhaps wrongly, that Audi would have planned for that possibility and that the electrical connections at the tow ball would automatically disable that function.

You need a good auto electrician for this not a workshop, from your description I would think your steering lock module is not powering up on request and this module is part of the security handshake required to enable engine crank,

Please note, the reason given for warning this poster is not ‘ Not responding to posts’ (apologies - system error) but for unacceptably disrespectful comments. Incidentally, ‘Your’ should be written as ‘you are’. There we go, you’ve learned something new today!

HI!!! thought i'd report on the outcome in case it can help others.......I checked the speed sensors with a obd and after i sussed how to do it they all came out OK,so that was off the list,i bought a new after market steering angle sensor and fitted it ....while doing so i noticed that the Module thing had dropped a little and had obviously disconnected a few things slightly,this occured as when i first got the car after a few weeks the key could not be removed and i had to drill the steering lock out, when i put the lot together i for some reason didnt put the little screw back that holds the module in place (mustve lost it???) i held it in place with really good tape (this was at least 2 years ago),i'm assuming that with the weather lately the tape got sticky and melted a bit and with the amount of road humps round my way the Module dropped down????....it is possible that the angle sensor was ok but just disconnected?? ....all the faults are gone now and the car seems to be working ok with no warning lights on the dash.....i guess i will never know as i aint gonna check as it was a bit of a pain in the ar5e to do. it all makes sense now with te wipers/indicaters not working which was a bit wierd .....anyway cheers to those who gave advice......by the way.....my obd skills need to get better as i removed the tool and left the key in the ignition ON overnight and fried the battery☹️....it was really swollen once i sussed ...£50 down the drain....lucky i didnt fry the electrics and lucky the battery didnt explode....i noticed the previous owner didnt remove the 2 plugs from the battery that you are supposed to do when you recieve it??? maybe ive been driving a ticking timebomb??? i didnt even know batteries had these plugs??? ....cheers again all

Hello Tony, Further to the PM you sent me. Your video doesn’t work on my system. If all the entries in the service book are supported by invoices rather than card payment receipts then I would be less suspicious of lack of a business stamp for each of the service book entries. You tell me - in effect- you aren’t experienced enough to form a decision yourself. If I was in your position I wouldn’t entertain proceeding with any deal without having an independent examination of the car. Regards, Gareth.

This is what it should look like

I really like the Irish sense of humour!

No problem Gareth , im sure your probably right , as I tell people I consider myself " an optimistic pessimist " Im optimistic that it will always go wrong ! 😀

Hi all finally solved my steering wheel button and paddle issue, car ended up going to audi and after 3.9k spent all is good( not by me by the way) so I have treated her to a roof deep clean in and out detail and ceramic coating, she will be the bell of the ball, not that I'm overly attached to my car or anything!

Why, oh why ECP? Not competitive any more?

Hello Tristian, The videos don’t work for me, but judging from the photos, the lip looks sufficient to renew the discs. You have to consider the on going wear situation at the end of the life of the pads you are going to replace. Noise? If you are intending to buy discs and pads, then I’m currently ‘experimenting’ with Brembo - to good effect. You could try Parts in Motion for competitive prices and good service - no personal connection. Regards, Gareth.

Off to garage in morning!

It is worth trying to negotiate with the owner directly, rather than through the middle man, if that is possible and legal in Singapore. You may not get any where, but if other possible buyers have looked at, and rejected, the car on the basis of the repair cost, he may be tempted to compromise.

You're welcome. If it is the ballast then this can be changed but might need to be coded in.

You'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. Could be an issue with the ballast

To add to Gareth's advice, on older audi models if the hazard switch fails or starts to fail it can cause the I dictators to play up. If that's the case the cure is a new hazard switch

Would it make sense to try and start it with jump leads? If it starts then you know starter is ok, and maybe the issue lies with the battery. In any case you will probably need to do this if you are planning to take it to a garage to get the battery tested.

Thank you mate ,after a bit more digging and a bit of a disagreement with a guy on VCDS it appears I dont have this module in the car so this I why I could not access it , STG 13 > Coding > Byte 3 > Bit 3 Activate refers too (auto distance regulation) =adaptive cruise control ,as I dont have this on the car I dont need this section so all sorted Cheers Jim

Great Tony -very pleased for you. Back to your SP30, didn’t they offer you the option of attending a speed awareness course for around £90, rather than 3 points? Regards, Gareth.

Is it old fashioned enough to have points? If so, check the gap and ensure the contact faces are unburnt. The condensers in such systems were also prone to failure.

Hello there! Just to keep you informed about my, in fact, "mechanical restoration" of my 2.5 BDH. Two weeks ago I left my car to my mechanic's shop to do some things, like: Timing kit with water pump Front control arm kit Automatic transmission service kit Draining of all fluids and refilling with new ones Injector sealing rings In the end, the situation turned out like this: Having then replaced: Timing system Water pump Thermostat All pulleys and vibration dampers Crankshaft pulley Coolant reservoir Automatic transmission oil pan, filter, and oil Valve cover gaskets and sealing rings Alternator (only because the old one was FULL of engine oil) Glow plugs Complete front control arm kit including tie rod ends Air conditioning gas recharge Now I hope to be able to drive it again next week, as they will finally return it to me! In the meantime, some new parts came to my home, ready to be changed! Cheers! Federico