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I would always advise against a remap on a car that's got an eml on. Any good remapper should have advised this too. As you could just compound the cars issues. You'll need another diagnostic check or take it to another garage if your usual garage is struggling to diagnose it and repair it.

Relay issue?

Hello Bernard, I’m very much with Steve, and the repair road would be my preferred option - since all else seems hassle. You obviously know the shape and end fittings etc. of this pipe, but we don’t, so a photo would be useful. Since you can’t buy a pipe then getting a replacement made up should be an option, but even if this isn’t practical ( and I can’t see why not), then can’t your cut the pipe at the damaged area, and use a piece of rubber fuel hose suitably jubilee clipped on, as a bridging piece - at least as a temporary repair? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi for all the people who value stop start, had a rather interesting Volvo/Ford engineer as a passenger this week and rather than a lecture on electric vehicles he had my attention talking about stop/start, mine as usual was zoned out and he enquired why, I explained that my theory was it put added wear on the starter and ring gear he laughed and said it was highly unlikely as both components were beefed up to accommodate the extra loads but in fact my theory wasn't as far off as I thought, he then went on to tell me he was working with the oil companies to produce new nano tech oils because the existing engine technology is suffering with stop/start as when the engine is running the pressured oil forms a hydro barrier between the crank journals and the bearings, when the engine is stopped the journal/bearing come into contact and when the engine starts again there is a lapse between the oil pressure arriving to reinstate the hydro barrier, I.E. extra wear, he then explained that a normal engine is rated to start 50,000 times during its life and a stop/start engine will perform the same function over 500,000 times, so you can see where this is going and apparently the race is on to produce a coating for crank bearings that is self lubricating Teflon and Iron Oxide, Yes, Rust, which in fine particles reduces friction co efficient by 50%, also he explained that the engine conditions for stop/start have to be ideal as it won't work when the engine is too hot/cold or if you have the aircon working flat out, I have never experienced this as my stop/start is never on. Steve.

So update on this one now the car has been to the garage: 1) White smoke: Did your test, no smoke so I assume it was nothing abnormal and is instead me being a bit paranoid. 2) I got them to check out the wheel issue. The challenge was tire feathering (abnormal wear) which was causing the road noise on front right. They've moved it onto the back to try and reduce the noise, but a new tire will be needed at some point. My MOT is in May so I plan to get new ones before then; as you say, they're reaching the end of their life soon in any case. Thanks for your help on this!

Just recently bought an upgrade pack for the audi mmi, couple of sd cards with new sat nav maps, software update, android auto, apple carplay etc. Good for a few different audi models with full install instructions, just installed today on mine if anyones interested in an upgrade to software and 2022 maps seems a waste as I hopefully won't need and have to install all the updates again.....

I've had my 2018 C7 1.8t Avant in for it's service recently (mid Oct) and 2 weeks ago it developed an engine fault which has been diagnosed as a faulty water pump in the coolant system. This seems strange for a premium car which is just over 4 years old and only has 33k miles on the clock. Does anyone have any experiences of this? I found the following class suit has been lodged in the US for exactly the issue I'm seeing: https://mycarvoice.com/news/volkswagen-water-pump-settlement-announced/

In addition to Stevey's comments, check the fuse. As far as I recall there are separate fuses for left and right headlights.

Limerick Audi Dealer true to their word... Car back with new upgraded ad blue tank and ECU, pressure quality sensor also including re-new injector pipes into engine bay,injector working well so only thing not replaced. All done for around 950 plus VAT... Happy, very happy! 2 years warranty now on system as replaced. Big thank you to Joe Duffy Audi Limerick, especially Michelle (service manager), who calmed me down and made everything right with the world...

Hello James, I would certainly not assume that any wiring should be there. Those days seem to have gone, where vehicles are now built to order specification, and ‘options’ wiring is unlikely to be built in. It would be plan for the worse and hope for the best. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Leigh, Don’t knock yourself about -you are not on your own! I don’t think it’s uncommon for owners to change their vehicles just before some large expenditure is due, but they too get ‘caught out’ with massive outlays on the ‘cost to change’ economics. I too would have thought c£750 sounds nearer to it, but as I say, just shop around until you have a reasonable figure from a source you have confidence in. You might find out-of-city dealers will offer you lower prices due to lower overheads. Perhaps you could let us know where you get to with this. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. There have been Cambelt ‘deals’ where they offer you free MOTs for life! Personally, I’d avoid these like the plague, since they can do serious damage to your wallet in the longer run.

Hi Gareth. Yes roof bars across roof. Linking existing front to rear roof rails.

Hi Gareth It's chain driven. 2.0 Tfsi quattro 252 Yep seen Audi service records. Dsg and Haldex serviced. Been part of Audi service plan. Still got 2 x Audi services left. I was looking for a younger car initially but I'm only doing about 4k miles per year now so decided an older car with low mileage and full service record should be fine.

A simple voltage test will not always reveal internal battery faults, nor will such faults necessarily interfere when used in another vehicle. If the problem occurs again I recommend you fit a new battery before spending a lot of time and money on sensors.

What's the service history on the car? When was the Cambelt and water pump last changed? Has the autobox been serviced? Has the quattro system been serviced? Do all electrical items work including ac and lights.

That's the summary of Bosch. And no response to-date. The new MANN pollen filter however is performing as you'd expect.

It's not been driven far enough to overheat much over normal (90° on the thermostat). Only really been driving it to take it to the garage and back since the warning light came on... 🙄 Thanks for your advice and will keep you posted with the outcome

Hi Rob I hope you don't mind me joining in with this discussion and it does look as though you are getting alot very supportive and useful help from Gareth. Also I'm not sure of how you feel about this particular Q8 but looking through the list of faults with this car isn't there now an argument to reject it completely, be fully reimbursed by the supplying Dealership and go for an alternate Q8 ? I do realise that this car was a Vorsprung spec with every conceivable bell and whistle and they are quite rare but I have just a basic spec S line with the sound and camera package and the spec is pretty good. Just my 2 penneth and I do hope you get sorted. Frank

Hello Roger, Many thanks for joining. I sounds as if you car is set against a Longlife schedule, and if so, it will usually indicate servicing intervals of around 18K miles or c18 months - whichever comes first. What annual mileage are you covering? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi, thanks. Yes it’s booked in for check with Audi it’s only done about 800 miles. I am not using it at the moment as I don’t want to cause any additional damage. Audi dealer said safe to drive though

Hi, Definitely report it to your local dealer and Audi UK customer services. The more reports, the more likely they are to help customers out! Unfortunately at the time for me, Audi stood firm and denied it was a build problem/faulty part. The best admission I got was from the lead mechanic for my local Audi dealership, he said that this issue shouldn't occur especially at the mileage my car had done (40k). The dealership said there was no recall out for the vehicle so it's the customers problem, Audi UK said the same thing. I do believe this is the start of a bigger problem that Volkswagen will have so I got Audi to repair it and will push for a refund if it becomes a recall in the future. I got Audi to send details of the parts used and how it's repaired, touque tension used etc just as evidence in the future. I have spoken about this to a few people and someone mentioned about the change of fuel type (E10) potentially adding pressure to the fuel rail. I haven't looked into this though so just a thought. Is there anyone that has knowledge on this? Alex

Afternoon Rob I have just read your post and I'm sorry to hear about your numerous problems regarding your Q8. However, it seems from the replies that you have received numerous helpful threads in helping resolve your issues. For my part, I think you have been unfortunate. I bought a Q8 55 TFSI Sport new in September 2020 and have just completed 28,000 miles just returning from a 3 week driving tour of Deutschland. In the past 26 months I have had a few minor glitches with the car but nothing approaching the stuff that you have endured. I have had the Audi pre-sense and auto headlight system drop out of service, only for it to come back to life again at the first start up of the car. Several months ago I had the bottom screen.....the one with the HVAC stuff......just blank out......and then after the next start up, come back on again. I presume that we owners have to accept that this is a pretty complicated car with alot of electrical gizmos. So, to sum up , I am very happy with the car and I hope....eventually.....you will be too. We did over 2000 miles in the 3 weeks in Germany, many on unrestricted Autobahns and the car was quite sublime at speeds exceeding 100 mph. I did note that you reside in Hampshire as do I. Although I used the Audi main dealership that supplied the car ( Swansway Group in Crewe ) for the first 2 services and a decent job they did too. For the cars third service before leaving for Germany I used a Hampshire based VW / Audi independent garage . I am now an old guy in my 70's and retired. I have been fortunate enough to have an understanding missus who allowed me to indulge in my only true vice.....nice cars. Like you I have owned a fair number of Porches/ VW's and Audis over the years and I have always used this garage to service and maintain them. The owner is a guy called Matt who truly is a car nut and treats ever car there as his own. I have never been anything other than completely satisfied with the work on my car. Then add in the added bonus that Matts rates are a fraction of the ones demanded by Audi dealers. So, once you are sorted and you fancy having your car looked at by Matt, please just message me and I will only be too happy to give you details of this garage. Best wishes. Frank

man, why would you want to, it will be the oldset phone know to man I had the same thing when I bought my car , could see it would leave a mess if removed so bought a 3D printed cradle that was designed especially for that car and holes. Turned up and fitted so badly I sold it and instead ordered a second hand centre section and just replaced it . So you go from this to this

Thanks Steve Q. Audi dealer checked it out. They couldn't fix it. So an Audi Approved Upholsterer will be arranged to visit me at home, so they can look at it and try to carry out the repair. If they cant fix it, Audi will provide a new seat cover. Audi guy i was dealing with, says technicians reckon the leather may have stretched, for some reason. Will update in due course. Regards John.

Hi just thought I would put this out there, I have been trialing some Adblue out of Halfords its called YARA and comes in a 3.5 litre pouch with a really good pouring spout built on to it so no wastage leaking from the joint of the screw on spouts, its about £6.50 a go but two pouches are enough to put the light out and it seems to last much longer than the rest of the brands I have used to the point where I had put some in in August and the light came on yesterday so considering I do around 160 miles a day is not bad, so in my considered opinion its worth a go. Steve.

Sorry to hear of your issue. Let's hope Audi can get to the bottom of it soon. However with the ongoing mmi issues I wouldn't hold my breath.

Hi both - thanks for your help; really appreciate it. 1) Will wait for a dry day to do the coolant test you reference. Is the logic if the smoke gets worse; then its likely a coolant leak? 2) On the wheel - it steers true, a little pull to the left but nothing I'd view as abnormal and no vibration or friction when steering. I'm thinking it's likely tire wear too given the mileage; did the 20p test though and seems they've got a bit of life in them yet but will get get them checked out. I'll come back as I get the testing done - cheers again

Hello David, Sorry if this comes over as unhelpful, but to be constructive, the shortest route to freedom from worry about this, is to phone the garage and arrange to return the car for inspection at the earliest opportunity. This will result in a much quicker resolution than us guessing on here. I’m sure you will appreciate that it’s virtually impossible to diagnose such noises without access to the vehicle. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Yes I think its best to get it to a specialist and let them tell me what is wrong, it could be even worse than first feared which I think it is. Thank you for all the help and I will keep you informed of the outcome Regards Anthony

Thanks Jon, that’s great. Could you come back to us with the outcome. To Steve Y. Apologies Steve, but did you refer to Mann possibly not now being what they were, or was it Bosch - or indeed both? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi they all do it not just Audis, when I was running Mondeos that was there favourite trick as well as spreading foam crumbs all over the carpet I used to go down the breakers and find a car that was picked clean and buy the passenger seat foam and use that as it had less wear, I think the new foam is probably your best bet and is easily fitted so that will be it for another 168k by which time I think you will be past caring LOL. Steve.

Hi Gareth, sorry for the delayed reply. When I got new tyres fitted by Kwik fit, I had noticed that the steering wheel was slightly off centre afterwards, no idea why but I managed to get the 4 wheel alignment done by an independent Audi specialist and it's now all okay :). I was looking for the Audi settings just as a reference point as my mate has basic wheel alignment equipment. Cheers James

The car is located in Cork City approximately 20 mins from Cork Airport and I can collect any potential buyers and return them to the airport. Make: Audi Model: RS2 Year: 1994 Mileage: 119500 miles Registration: A15 RFA (NI registered since 2018, 3 former keepers) This car has been through a very thorough and detailed restoration with an inordinate amount of Genuine New Old Stock Audi parts. It has been fully resprayed with a windows out job completed to a concours standard, there was no filler used only paintless dent removal and numerous new panels. Over €30,000 spent on the restoration process. The alloys were refurbished and new centre caps were fitted along with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tyres. I can send photos of the receipts from the S/H and restoration of the car, there are over 130 photos on the paperwork alone. The fact that this car is originally a UK Right hand drive car makes it rarer, along with it being in the most desired colour and the desired interior and carbon fiber trim. It would be ideal for a collector or to be driven and enjoyed. V5 present and it's SORN. This is cheap to VRT. For information on the car please get in touch and I can furnish you with more photos of the car and the service history and receipts. This is a private sale by the owner. Price: €64950 Any questions feel free to give me a call: +353868271541

Hi if the pipe is metal it will be possible to weld it but it must be removed from the car to make that possible, you might get a better response if you can post a picture of it, as for who can do it, anyone with a bit of savvy and a MIG welder, as for acceptable if it aint leaking they can't fail it. Steve.

Hi Gareth there must be someone in your area who has VCDS/Snap on they would definitely run the culprit to ground, try a local independent as most of them have something that will read it for a modest cash donation. Steve.

Hello Barry and Steve, €16K for a 125K ( low, but not low, mileage if you see what I mean) model? Since it’s being sold by a specialist then I would expect a premium price, but wondered if this was indeed near the going rate. Take it you have checked the MOT history etc. Barry. Kind regards, Gareth.

ah yes I quickly canned the op's post and mis-read what he said. I thought he was getting in and out 20 times a day, and totally missed out the 'unless'

Sorry to bump this old thread, but I thought it was still worth replying. The car may have been of relatively low mileage for the leather to be cracking/scuffing, but I think the main issue that's causing this that is ignored! If you are getting in and out of the car 20 times a day, that will have a far greater effect on the wear than the number of miles driven. The bolster take a lot of wear when getting in and out of a car whether it's cloth or leather. My dad's car's bolster is ripped to shreds (it's only a clio with cloth seats) as he delivered fast food so is constantly in and out of his car. For the OP, the bolster car be re-dyed and then get a tough special coating that protects this area. Alternatively, depending on the car, just get a car cover for the drivers seat for day to day use, and when you are going to special functions, take off the cover.

Thanks Duncan, ‘…not totally correct…’ Um! Let’s try and boil this down:- Is stoping and restarting an engine (with zero oil pressure) unlikely to have any negative effect on the engine - particularly over many years of repeating that procedure numerous times/day? If your answer is ‘No it doesn’t have an adverse affect’ ,then it would be great to hear your reasoning to support that. As I see it we have two camps here who are not stop/start averse:- Environment supportive motorists who are happy to accept the engineering averse system, based on the ‘temporarily on stop’ emissions reduction. I certainly don’t have any any argument with that, since I guess they know that they are paying the cost. Other group - my car has stop/start, and that’s posh and somewhat impressive, and I want it to work for that reason, and it won’t be impressive if I switch it off. Different, and they too obviously know about the increased wear element. Back to your ‘… not totally correct….’ Interesting third group? Many thanks Duncan. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi thanks for getting in touch. I did manage to find a set in Hungary through the FB groups, while they aren't the best they get the job done quite well :)

Did you ever manage to source these parts? I just bought my B2 model over here and the guy had 3 donor cars sitting in the driveway so im sure i can source them if you need and are happy to pay for the shipping.

Thanks for the points Gareth. Was bought from Audi in February 2019 from their Approved Used Car section. It currently has 3 Former Keepers showing on the V5. Recent work carried out Timing Belt and Water Pump by Audi.

Most grateful for the reply. With brass inserts for the covers I'm baffled to why the motors didn't also deserve them. I suspected they were self-tapping but didn't want to go ramming screws in and risk the manifolds cracking where there are no flutes in the screws. To ensure straight entry, I'll do this on the bench with a motor as the guide before fitting the manifolds and making the job awkward. I assume that once tapped they can be removed and replaced without issue. Thanks. Forums do work!

Oh dear like what? Have to say it's always the way lol

Hi bulbs are like track rod ends, tyres, brake pads, discs you always change them in pairs because they wear as a set the new single light bulb will be much brighter than the other side, you don't have to buy the expensive bulbs from Euros, go on eBay I have used many different brands and Limastar from valley lighting are about the best Lumex are good, you are supposed to change the bulbs every three years as they do go off. Steve.

Hi if you have the remap you will definitely have to use the 97/99 premium or use a proprietary quality octane booster as an additive to 95 otherwise you start burning valves etc, but the thing that baffles me is why, with all that power as standard or do we have a track day planned, cars with a standard state of tune like that have come from the factory in a high state of tune and the bonus with that is there is also a high reliability factor built in, mapping eats into the reliability factor but aim sure the mapping boys will say not, the manufacturer makes sure the clutch and gearbox will live with this power as standard if you start throwing different torque curves and more BHP invairiably major components will fail faster, I cite the case of the VW Golf GTI owner who at 36k had his car remapped, happy days 60bhp more and another 40nm of torque until the clutch retired 4k later and another two grand bill for an uprated clutch, not so happy. Steve.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 have you got a picture? Ive be er heard of this before.

Hi Derek. I am concerned for you and your car. As the car is more than 5 years old and has done 100k miles the cam belt is well over due. If it did break or shred it can cause catastrophic damage to the engine. The £600 to £1000 pounds to replace it is much cheaper than the £6000 to replace the engine.

SOLVED!! Was the thermostat in the end, which some reffer to as coolant actuator. Latter is probably more accurate since it's an electronic motor driven device which performs the same function as a thermostat. It looks as though the thermostat housing had failed, and not at the classic location of where the unit attaches to the block either, but somewhere right in the middle. The garage has let me keep the defective part so i'll be ken to investigate the cause more closely. Not just ouf of curiosity but also to provide feedback to audi themselves. A £300 pound part, in my view should not fail on a 6 year old car. Especially when any typical thermostat would cost less than £40 and probably be easily fitted by the owner and certainly not a multiple hour job for garage like this was. I also believe that it's this leak which must have cause some kind of oxidation of the coolant which then also cause a secondary water pump motor to go - which shut off the stop/start function, and the level sensor in the coolant reservoir. All in all a very expensive, time consuming and frustrating few months. I'll post some pictures up soon of the faulty part. Be interesting to see what anyone else thinks