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I've bought a sensor from eBay to keep in the car 😀 I'm not going to tempt fate by messing around with something that isn't broken. It doesn't appear to be the 'A' version however for £15 it might prevent a bigger issue. Edit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334119302412?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=uI6ymBN1QH-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=BbKs5X6FTgi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Had the exact same issue with my 2010 Audi A4 Avant 2.0 tdi 143bhp a few years back. Ended up having to change both thermostats to sort issue out.

Hi Folks, Well last Friday I went and test drove the Audi A4 2.0 Sport 35. Although the car is a 2019 model it has done less than 6K miles and it looked brand new. Not only that, it has all the features of my 2012 S Line and more to boot. A4s came a long way over those seven years. The Audi dealer allowed me to go off with the car and I have to say it drove really well. It may only have 150 bhp but I personally could not tell the difference from my 1.8T with 170 bhp. No doubt my car may have lost a few horses over 11 years and possibly the new A4 is lighter etc. So @Stevey Y, you are right - no remap required (thank you). Anyway, to cut a long story short I bought the car. I would have preferred an S Line variant but this was simply too good a car to slip by. So sadly my faithful servant Max (1.8T) will no doubt heading off to a car auction. Good bye old friend and I just hope Max finds a kind owner. Many thanks Paddy UK

Hi Jon, having run just about every combination of discs and pads over the last million miles I can honestly say that Brembo are excellent, both discs and pads BUT the ATE discs will last longer as the carbon content is far higher, Bosch pads are very good used with the ATE/Brembo discs, most other brands Febi/Mintex/Delphi are good but tend to wear faster, if you re use the old bolts 20nm torque is about right as these are stretch bolts and ideally you would use new bolts but absent new bolts you wont want to put to much pressure on already stretched threads, most kits worth getting have new bolts and a wear sensor as if you don't replace the sensor yes the old one works but fails in a short space of time leaving you with a dash warning light, you can phone TPS but have a Defib unit handy, then do the sensible thing and go on parts in motion web site or eBay I have just bought genuine ATE front discs and a Bosch pad kit with sensor cable and new bolts for £170, its all there if you search and the rear discs and pads are always cheaper by about 40%. Steve.

Hi why bother with a remap when the new car will perform as well as your old car if not better, its all about how the torque curve is used on the existing map, I think you may find there is only a marginal difference in some aspects of the new cars performance especially when the newer engine has an extra 200cc which is a whole lot more to play with, go to the other end and in the early eighties Lancia did a Lancia Y10 three cylinder Turbo which at 1ltr was capable of over 105mph with a very respectable 0-60. Steve.

Hi all, thanks for your replies, I'm going to look at the wiring inside the bellows between the door and the body. Either way I'll post the results when I get the chance to investigate.

Hi I agree with Steve and Gareth on both options, can you specify what has failed as if its a pipe its either repairable or substituted with a different material with a similar bore, if you look at it I wouldn't mind betting your system is exactly the same as the A4/A5/A6 I think its a safe bet as VAGs love of globalisation means one part fits a load of other models, I to am a cabbie and I know exactly where you are coming from, I feel for you I really do, no car is like someone has cut your throat financially, I have come across this none in the country for your vehicle CR@P loads of times as with my engine mounts, ended up buying FEBI units which also fitted the A4 with a CNHA engine, oh no I was told by the main stealer they wont last, 70k later says no difference. If you get in a jam just get the adblue mapped out until you can get the parts its a lot cheaper than being off the road for six months. Steve.

Hello Graeme, Obviously the situation is intolerable, but to me, the emphasis should be on obtaining suitable substitutes rather than concentrating on how/why Audi has allowed this situation to deteriorate - that is not being progressive. If this were mine, I would concentrating my efforts on inspecting the faulty component (pipe?) and thinking about some better mode of repair than resin goo. Surely a reliable repair/modification would not be beyond the scope of a small engineering shop. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Matt, This concerns, since any oil which has been in the sump of a diesel engine - for even the shortest of time - will be black. So ‘clear’ will certainly ring alarm bells. Appreciating everyone has to start DIY mechanics somewhere, and I don’t want to make this too critical, but since you are asking if the sump plug is the same as the drain plug, it really does demonstrate that you are on A of the mechanic’s alphabet, and that’s fine, but I think you would be well advised to have someone by your side who has a bit more experience, and can guide you through. Now, clear oil might be expected from the gearbox ( if it has a drain plug) and one begins to wonder whether you have indeed removed a wrong plug. Having said that, 200/300mls would be a small quantity to run out of there, whatever angle the car is at, but to run out of the engine sump of a diesel engine just seems to ring alarm bells to me. Photos of what you’ve done Matt, so we can try to help? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith, Welcome and thanks for joining. Try entering your registration number into ‘Parts in Motion’ website, and they should come up with a variety of brands of parts. In terms of rear suspension bushes, just go for the complete arms - they are that expensive. Incase it helps, I’ve used Febi parts to good avail. I wouldn’t buy on cheapest will do. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I don’t have any connection with Parts in Motion, except having bought a variety of parts off them and had a good service and competitive prices.

Registered with Partsfinder etc. Jack? Also worth advertising in Classic Car Weekly, and other classic car publications. Can you take a photo of the part? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi you are better off replacing the entire unit not to difficult, not to expensive, but make sure you buy a new rubber grommet as that deteriorates with age and give it a liberal coating of silicone grease when refitting grommet they tend to last longer, thats probably where your leak is. Steve.

Fantastic work!

Many thanks for the suggestions chaps, turned out I had stuffed up the timing by a few teeth 😱 Stripped it all down again and retraced my steps, timed it all correctly and she started first time. Perhaps the cam sensors prevented her from firing to protect the engine (thank goodness) running sweeter than ever now. cheers Sam

Company car Jon.

Yes, I thought maybe the brake disc shields also but they are in tact and not at all needing attention. I was actually shocked at how well they looked and felt. The rubber hose thing is interesting, do you have pics of the part you're referring to?

Sure thing Gareth, if the buyer collects or accepts carriage cost £1000, otherwise £1100 to anywhere in the UK (abroad on a case by case basis) hope this helps. Andy

Hi Steve, thinking back to when I rebuild the callipers on my A4 I didn't replace the carrier bolts then, and as you say, they had the grip washer. I just cleaned them with a wire brush and added a few drops of blue loctite. I was also surprised about the pads not having the backing on. I've seen it multiple times on various brands I've fitted over the years. Unfortunately ECP didn't have another set in stock to compare. Perhaps QC missed that batch 😄 I'll be going ahead with the full Brembo setup, and will report back on progress in the coming weeks. Thanks guys.

Thanks Jaime, I think I recall a quite prolific issue with a pressure’ sensor a couple or so years back -? Worth a search on here. Models affected -? Kind regards, Gareth.

Err no You will need it scanned with odis. Your fault could be different to mine, There are many posts on here regarding your fault. Regards mark

Offers in the region of...... is always a good start to getting a buyer

Not heard of any other cases. As it's a new car I'd recommend for you to get it checked by Audi. As it could be a faulty seal or nis-aligned door.

Hi Paul, 2 litres in 3 weeks is a lot of coolant, and what do you mean burnt up? In the cylinders? That would not be possible (in my opinion). My trouble shooting suggestion (with extra care of course), is to top up the coolant when the engine is cold. Get the engine up to temperature (90degrees) with the bonnet open. Because the coolant system is under pressure and at temperature, you should be able to see 'leaks' or 'steam'. You may want a second person to rev the engine as the water pump If you have an undertray, possibly remove that, as that could be catching the coolant? Again, be careful. Thanks, Joe

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. This can be done at a normal garage or independent specialist rather than Audi.

Yes, have now, thanks .

Hello Graeme, Many thanks for the in-fill details, but it still points to Audi being to blame here - which of course they are - and little to do with how are we going to temporarily get out of this mess in a much more efficient manner than their initial attempt. Without meaning to be patronising, I feel for you and our Steve Y who are totally dependable on your vehicle to put bread on your table, and this boiled down to now having to help yourself. If this were mine, I would be spending my time trying to find someone who is capable of making a far more reliable temporary repair than your friendly local dealer are - end of, in my book - since I feel you cannot afford to do anything else. Kind regards, Gareth.

E-bay have now stepped in and will refund the cost of the injector but I am still £300 out of pocket. How they have a 99.9% positive responses on E bay considering they get 25% one star rating on TRUSTPILOT all these are for the same issues i had with there injector and the company.

Yep you'll need Avant doors as the tops of the doors are different. S line bumpers are different but think wings are the same.

Just ordered the A3 Black Edition 35 TFSI in Daytona Grey, Technology Pack and managed to convince the dealer to throw in the Audi UTR to seal the deal. This is my first venture to Audi and hoping I wont be disappointed. I have previously been a loyal Honda person (Currently have the Civic Sport) but the new style/trim just doesn't do it for me this round and after looking at the Audi I decided to jump ship. Hoping to take delivery of my new car mid October 🙂.

Kefalonia is lovely. I do love father Ted. Such a great TV series

Hi, Is that picture with the reservoir moved over? That looks like enough space. I'm wondering if you are using the oil filter tool? Example Thanks, Joe

That would be my next normally but all new, well less than 2000 miles. I’ve not noticed lumps or bumps in them when I did the other bearing and no jilting of the wheel…. hopefully it’s the drivers bearing and I just couldn’t spin it up on the drive quick enough. I should’ve jacked it and spun it with the engine although that wouldn’t eliminate the gearbox but at least I could isolate sides…

Welcome and enjoy

Just found this Peter....when this was published there was a backlog of 24,000 cars waiting for export, normal backlog is 6,000 Dealers complain new VW, Audi and Porsche cars stuck in huge German port backlog – Car Dealer Magazine

Have you tried Audi heritage? Only problem is that they won't ship to the UK. So only way to get parts is if you have a fridge living in Europe who can ship the part to you.

Wonder how many people are caught out by this, end up with the abs failure as they are unaware of the faulty sensor issue. If audi are not going to recall and rectify the least they could do is issue a warning letter to all the owners they have on record? I only found out as I googled it, I carry out maintenance myself so I looked to see the cause and fix. But not everyone lifts the bonnet on their cars so potentially audi are replacing these abs units needlessly, causing crippling costs to owners which could be easily avoided. Mine is 2016 so 7 years old, not expecting the older cars be recalled suppose, but this thread is a few years old now and new cars then were suffering from failure and still nothing was done by audi..... love the cars but why so expensive to fix so soon when cheaper car manufacturers carry longer warranties.... Edit.....as I work away and the q7 sits parked up for weeks at a time, I'm thinking, if the replacement of the sensor works, (when it arrives) I'm gonna buy another and keep it in the car so if in the future this happens again I can just changeout straight away. Don't have to drive anywhere and risk the costly abs issue resulting.....

I doubt that anybody can help unless you give a lot more detail, such as amplifier make & model, and which wires you connected to which terminals, and what radio you are connecting them to.

Thanks Drew, My suspicion - but it can only be that - is that this is something fairly simple, and may be affected by braking, rather than caused by braking. Flapping noise:- loose plastic undershield ?? Complete guess, but…. Kind regards, Gareth.

Should be already on a long life service schedule but I’d also get fuel filter (if TDi). So I assume that’s at least 2 oil changed a year. injectors are common for clogging up on high mileage cars simply because the frequency of fuel changes. I’ll be honest whilst it is possible to achieve 200k miles and beyond. On VAG group vehicles you tend to see them drop away between 200k-300k not because of reliability simply because cost of components that need changing due to wear and tear. depending on mileage older model turbos on diesels tend to start dropping away between 120k-200k miles. But this is based on how the car is driven and what sort of journeys your doing. I’d probably guess the engine is good for 200k+ but the gearbox not. High milers for engine and transmission tend to do better with medium to long journeys that are regular because of the sustained operating temperatures. If the car is doing short-medium journeys and plenty of them like a taxis. I’d hazard a guess your make it beyond 200k but that’s because your happy committing to £3000+ a year in maintenance costs. previous experience with high mile VAG cars… 2012 VW 2.0 Passat 178k miles sold on as average annual repair costs exceeded £2000. (Car value £9k) 2014 VW 2.0 golf 197k miles Scrapped, turbo and gearbox repair costs £3,400. (Car value £3.8k)

Hi Jack just been on eBay and they have loads of them, what you really need is a photograph of the item or the part number on the old unit, looks like these fail fairly regularly as most of the ones I looked at covered from 1990-1999, try parts in motion on the net and see if they can match one to your car using your VIN number. Steve.

Yep looks about right to me also.

At least you've got some sort of answer 🙂

Welcome to the Audi Owners Club ! Good to have you onboard

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

I wonder if the wiring was damaged by an over zealous mechanic when the tracking was adjusted.

Apologies, I'd misread being a diesel could it be a turbo, or cam sensor

It may be possible that this map if out the box and not a custom map which is entirely different is meant for the Quattro model. If it was a torque related issue this would be present from 3rd gear (top end). I'm not an expert, but I have worked in customer facing automotive fault finding with engineers previously for a couple of car manufacturers whom make performance/limited built road going production cars which had a reputation for such niggles. At high speed 1/3 of the front mass weight is distributed onto the rear axle promoting tyre hop or axel bumping on front wheel drive cars. Which higher torque you’re experiencing the tyres spinning with barely any weight to keep them stuck to the ground on uneven bumpy roads. The car will limit this by retarding the fuel and air to manage slip as the differential does not have torque vectoring. The car may not display the symbol for traction control as there is always a little give in rotational slip before it kicks in. You could try and turn off traction control and see if it makes a difference. So the issue may be feedback from the ground to tyre to track rod ends to differential. I don’t know much about the differentials in this model but I know they are basic (standard) for the 7-speed gearbox. Whereas the 8 speed auto boxes come with a trix’d out ‘real Quattro’ system with bias to rear axle. The other likely issue/ cause is fuelling issue, indicating the pump or injectors are maxed out and that vibration you are getting is a fuel starvation problem. Fuelling problems tend to be more prevalent at higher speeds or top end rpm because the air/fuel ratio tend to lean out, more so on diesel engines to promote good mpg figures. Only way to find out is to simply drive it absent remap and see if the problem persists. If it does this should indicate a purely mechanical problem (likely). If it doesn’t indicating the remap was faulty (most likely).

Hi OP, the ergonomics in the C8 are the worst and seating/pedal offset is bad. I have a 2021 S6 and 9 months later I am still struggling to get comfortable, it seems like everything they could get wrong they did. The footrest for your left leg feels at least 2" too far away compared to the gas pedal and as for the seats. I have sports seats in the car and these are awful, what seats do you have? Considering I drove a manual B7 S4 Avant for 120,000 miles I am aware of the pedal offset and seat issues but the C8 is horrendous. I currently have 2 blocks of 3/4" ply screwed to the footrest and a wedge cushion on the seat trying to get comfortable, it is a truly terrible car but I like the mpg. I would like to know how other owners get comfortable in this thing as I am struggling.

Hi if you read the post in depth it tells you and shows you the box that he replaced on the turbo and has the added bonus of the part number. Steve.

I had the same issue so I've removed the fuse to stop it randomly wiping the window and going to buy the wiper delete kit for £10 I always wipe rear window with a squigee anyway and put the rear window heater on any way and looks good with out the wiper