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  1. From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊
    4 points
  2. Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.
    3 points
  3. Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem
    3 points
  4. Hi where to begin, ask anyone on here and I am certain that I would be classed as an enthusiast I have owned multiple Fords, Alfa Romeos, and the Audi, through my connections and experience I have discovered many things, foremost that FSH from dealers is about as useful as a chocolate fireguard, you would be better off having a independent garage with the pile of receipts you mention in your video at least thats physical evidence of work done and the parts used, I wont bore you with the experiences I have had in the last thirty years with dealer warranties but suffice to say I have had to fight tooth and nail to get what I wanted and only failed once, the manufacturers of these cars sell their wares on the premise that they will do 18k between oil changes and air filters only need changing every 40k, its utter garbage I service my own vehicles and stand by the statement that sort of service schedule will terminate your engine, my qualification for that statement is that as a cab driver I have done over a million miles between five vehicles one in particular I sold with 360k on the clock, I have a good working knowledge of brakes and transmission as well as diagnostics, Audi parts are hyper expensive and always on back order, the best way to get round this is to get the part number then go fishing on line, thats when you find most of those parts come from Febi, Bosch, Hella and you pay about a third of the price because they are not in a badge engineered box with VAG on it, your idea is sound in principle but are you actually going to get anymore than Joe average out of the dealers?, the Bar stewards don't even want to honour the extended warranties, have a look on this forum there are loads of examples of this, you may well be better starting a spares scheme negotiating with parts suppliers in Europe, I have never had to ask anyone to get me a service history as I have always created my own. Steve.
    2 points
  5. Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf
    2 points
  6. Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.
    2 points
  7. Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.
    2 points
  8. Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.
    2 points
  9. Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.
    2 points
  10. Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?
    2 points
  11. Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module
    2 points
  12. https://www.google.com/search?q=audi+a6+gearbox+code+QLX.&oq=audi+a6+++gearbox+code+QLX.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg80gEJMTA3MGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
    2 points
  13. happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁
    2 points
  14. Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.
    2 points
  15. Dan. It would help if you gave some details of the engine such as its size and fuel.
    2 points
  16. Hello Asad, Looks to be deposited by some ‘outside influence’. Have you looked at the under- bonnet insulation? Kind regards, Gareth.
    2 points
  17. Thank you guys, once you told me what it was I needed !, I have found one on ebay, and should have by middle of next week. i very much appreciate your help Graham
    2 points
  18. Hello Joel, Can I say it as I see it? You are trying to convince yourself that all maybe (in caps) alright, without evidence that it is. In reality, everything you now say are assumptions, and we all know what that word can be broken down to. The car hasn’t really had the best of servicing with the last owner, but only to the bare minimum requirement. Extended warranty?? Yes of course you can pay c£1,500 over 3 years for a warranty - with you paying the first £250 of each and every claim - and locked in to paying Audi servicing charges?? A warranty maybe a handy backstop to have, but every claim comes with hassle and the inevitable ‘it’s wear and take and not covered’. Again, saying it as I see it, I wouldn’t be surprised if you convince yourself to buy it. Please bare in mind that you will hopefully get other opinions on here. Kind regards, Gareth. Gareth.
    2 points
  19. Correct it can only be done by main dealer. Expect to Psy £500
    1 point
  20. Hi Magnet, Thanks for commenting. I had to drive my car today 70 miles the noise was not apparent ongoing but just when turning on the engine and going slower. I know the belt is tighter because pre garage visit- I took off the casing to see the cam belt - I wiggled it and it was more loose. On hearing the change in sound - rechecked under the casing and the cam belt is definitely tighter. I asked the garage after changing the bolts if my cam belt was OK and they did not say they had done anything to it. The independent garage specialise in audi and use genuine parts. They seem to have a good rep. The water pump is on the opposite side on my 1.4 petrol engine I am told. I am thinking of going back tomorrow to ask them about it. (Noise).
    1 point
  21. Hi lot of common sense on that statement, that’s what I was planning to do myself ,Audi dealership what a letdown 1 st time buying from them my 1 Audi was back in 80 s Audi 80 cd thanks for thoughts regards AR
    1 point
  22. Had the same problem, Audi replaced lock system, A4K2 837 016 H …. Audi part
    1 point
  23. Hi Steve, I personally would not go anywhere near that one it looks like cheap trouble until you get the bill for the rebuild, go for a later engine thats got some history and runs, not some vague statement that it did and then spent an indeterminate time in storage, no milage, I think he wants to go to the pub on someones £80, I have made the same mistake in the past especially when driven by desperation, take your time send your cash wisely and make sure what goes in at least works. Steve
    1 point
  24. Let's not forget we also had a pandemic in 2020 which shut most of Europe.
    1 point
  25. Audi Coventry run the diagnostics and found no faults. So I went to Rugby services to try their 350kwh charger... and it charged perfectly. Then I realised that the charger cable was on the right and plugged easily into the DC charging port on the right (drivers) side of my etron as I had entered the bay nose first. I recall the chargers that had been problematic at Woolley Edge and Wetherby had cables on the left side and it was quite a stretch to drag them across the bonnet to plug in as they wanted to retract. So I surmise that was the issue i.e. the charging cable was not properly seated. Next time I will reverse in if I use these chargers.
    1 point
  26. i bought this car yesterday It’s back on the road and being used as intended
    1 point
  27. I have a fix. I also own a mk2 Golf and I spotted a detail on the gas peddle cable that is the same for adjustment, at the end there is a castellated section with a clip on it for tension, I added a couple of castellations to the tension and I now have 1k solid tickover. 😁 The clip sinks into the rubber grommet, lowering the tension over time. 😎
    1 point
  28. Yes agree re navigation software. I do know the Audi garage did update the software including MMI software but whether that is latest (unlikely) is anybody's guess and was just pleased I could use android auto wirelessly (plus fixing maps / navigation issues). The only OTA updates I have seen are for the navigation maps and each of those has been successful. If you are picking up from a dealer I would ask them to sort it out for you - I know mine have been great when I have asked them.
    1 point
  29. Hi have you tried eBay with that part number they have loads of them.
    1 point
  30. Lovely to meet everyone. Recently purchased an RS4 Carbon Black Avant (2020). Certainly more interesting than my wife's 1.2T Fiesta.. 👋
    1 point
  31. Sorry Full Service History and 2 Owners
    1 point
  32. The low oil consumption suggests the engine is in reasonable condition for its age, and in standard form would likely not have high CO emissions. Therefore I'd say your modifications are responsible for the problem, and the solution is to restore the engine to standard form.
    1 point
  33. Yea an Audi independent is an option or an auto electrican
    1 point
  34. Hi the best thing to do is ring an on line company Parts in motion they will be able to tell you exactly what size discs you have from your REG/VIN Number, they only sell on eBay but will be able to give you item number for discs that will fit your car, and are probably 40% cheaper than Euro car parts, I use them a lot and I have never had a bad experience. Steve.
    1 point
  35. Hi no such thing as a crank sensor without a wiring connector otherwise it wont work, you have to find the remains of the original wiring the sensor is normally by either the crank pulley or where the gearbox joins the engine. Steve.
    1 point
  36. Check to see if the Cambelt and water pump have been changed. Also if it's an auto make sure the gearbox has had services on time. This also goes for the quattro system if it has it. Make sure all electronic items work Especially the mmi and air conditioning etc. Major parts that can fail are dpf, egr or turbo all of which could be £1k bill each. Also check YouTube videos for buyers guides.
    1 point
  37. It'll definitely need to be coded.
    1 point
  38. It could be a back tyre issue, or any of a dozen different issues from the sparse information you have provided. Whatever the cause, if you bought the car recently take it back to the dealer you bought it from.
    1 point
  39. £7680 private, £8130 independent dealer, £8990 franchised dealer. That's true, he could've said! I did ask him to send me MoT & service history, but that won't be until Tuesday as he's away working, which is before we had arranged to view, if we do. Still mulling it over atm. I will let you know what we decide. Kind regards, Dawn
    1 point
  40. Just seen this thread! I had a similar issue on my A5 sportback. It's a motor/servo arm motor (can't remember the proper name). I believe there are 3 motors on the drivers side and the one that needs changing is the most difficult to get access to. You don't need to remove the whole dash as the Audi instructions say, you can remove the dash panel under the steering and the side below the centre console and get access. You need to remove one of the other motors to get access tot he one to be replaced. It's a tight fit but possible. There's a guide on youtube somewhere.
    1 point
  41. Welcome Isaac, and thanks for joining. Are the working and non working front and rear brakes diagonally opposite? If so, could be associated with ABS-? ‘…help a brother out….’ Masonic? Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  42. Thanks Gareth, No i havent but I will check I did it get washed not under the hood but just exterior thoroughly the other day wonder if its just soap residue I was worried it was something more sinister Thank you for getting back to me
    1 point
  43. Could be the ECU and the only way you'll know is sending it off for repair. You might be able to buy a second hand one from eBay but it must be the exact same part number. Then the imobiliser will need to be removed from it or recoded to work for your car.
    1 point
  44. Hello Andrew, Welcome, and thanks for joining. Boiling this down:- You aren’t now doing much mileage, yet you are considering putting considerable funds into buying more modern examples - which overall don’t seem to tick the boxes for you. Quite understandable. Advice for what it’s worth:- Stick with what you have - it will probably still be whining this time next year, but still proceeding along. Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  45. Hi its a rear bumper lower valence, loads on eBay second hand and aftermarket, easy job it clips on and I think it might have a couple of bolts on the centre section lower down. Steve.
    1 point
  46. On the AdBlue topic, you can get the no restart message flashed out of the ECU at a fraction of the cost of replacement parts. Give Andy at https://ecuflash.co a call. On the wider get rid or keep topic, I’ll never buy another Audi again. 16 plate B9 (actually B8.5 according to it’s car plate). Owned for 5ish years and I’ve put 50k on it. 80k in total. I’ve spent about 7k keeping it on the road, fixing issues that shouldn’t be there for a car this age and mileage. Not including “on-the-road costs” like tyres. -Had the brake servo/abs issue. -Had the AdBlue issue. -Odometer failed and had to be replaced. -2 broken rear coil springs. -Have the issue with low interior heat. -5 (yes five) new sets of front discs/pads due to excessive warping. -1 new calliper. I can go on, but suffice to say my experience of “Vorsprung durch Technik” is actually “our technology is crap”.
    1 point
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