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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.6 points
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Thanks for Everyone who’s posted on this topic, Same issue apart from my car is used every day. I ended up buying one from an Audi dealer £100. As I had a week of long journeys, poss could have risked it and waiting for the e-bay delivery but I’ll never know. Anyway in my head I’ve still saved £150 fitting it myself instead of thinking of the £80 difference of the same part. I still ordered one from eBay and now I’ve a cheap spare. Thanks again for the advise I can’t imagine there are too many sensors on a modern car you can get to so easily 😊😊👍4 points
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4 points
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Further to my above post 3 weeks ago, my A6 has reluctantly now been traded in with Audi and I have a replacement car. A shame because I really like the A6 (my 3rd) but could not tolerate the inherent unreliability and likely forthcoming big bills. I have spent time googling Audi + Vitesco, then making use of google translate and reading the various posts on the German websites and forums. (For those not aware, Vitesco appears to be the manufacturer of 48V equipment for these models including the notorious BSG or RSG in German - RiemenStarterGenerator). Clearly liability and fault for all these problems is a major discussion between the two companies which seems far from resolution according to the reports and will be hugely expensive however the legal process pans out. One piece of perhaps relevant information from the motor-talk.de forums suggests that the early "potentially faulty" BSGs had a serial number commencing in 4N0, whereas the SN of the more recent "good" BSGs commence with 4N1. So to possibly answer my own question, I reckon the more recent models with the 48V system may well have the issue fully sorted, which is a glimmer of good news for those such as me who like the concept of the system, despite the poor execution of it. Perhaps surprisingly, I remain a fan of Audi cars as a brand, though the company's poor handling and lack of ownership of the whole BSG issue is simply dreadful. Nonetheless, to anyone buying a new or used Audi with the 48V MHEV system, a long extended warranty would be a very good investment I reckon.3 points
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Quick update - Martin at Bolton Car Interiors did a fantastic job, communicated really well and was reasonably priced for what was a unique job which no other garage could do. So indirectly he saved me 000's of pounds. Great place if you ever need any work doing.3 points
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Had this message appear on Friday night. Thankfully having read this tale, I knew exactly what to do - ordered one off ebay £14.99 it arrived today and was fitted tonight in less than 5 mins - great forum.3 points
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Hi OE, Gates, Dayco, Continental, if you dont change the water pump you will live to regret that choice, most kits worth the money come with the lot, belt ,idler pulley, tensioner, water pump and new bolts. Steve.2 points
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Hello, Why on earth Autodoc and spurious brands?? Whatever you do, do not buy on price for this critical application - always buy quality parts at best prices. I’ve always stuck with Gates, who were one of the OE suppliers to VAG. I don’t have any connection with this company, but try entering your reg. no. into Parts in Motion ( Exeter ) website and see what their prices are. When you have done that, look on EBay for their listings for the chosen part - often a little cheaper via. this route. Unlike Autodoc, they do free delivery. Always renew the auxiliary belt at the same time. 135k miles an cambelt never? renewed? Glad you got away with that one! Please let us know what prices you come up with. As has been said, worth checking parts price at Audi for comparison. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Where is Rogers?2 points
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You’re asking a generic question. There are multiple engine variants on 1.4TFSI platform. If your mates are doing it, get OE, it’s probably less than you think. Failing that a recognised and respected timing belt manufacturer, such as Gates, Continental, etc. This is a critical component, don’t cut corners due to cost.2 points
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Just a quickie to introduce myself as a new member. My names Kev & I live in the Manchester area. Recently bought a 2020 Q7.2 points
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That it leaks more when the engine is running suggests it is the shaft seal. Speculating further, is it possible the crankcase ventilation is not working properly? I am wondering if excess pressure in the crankcase is actively blowing oil out.2 points
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Hello John, I do feel for you. In your situation, I think it would be a ‘good investment’ to spend an hour’s labour with a trusted local garage, with a view to better sourcing the site/s of the leak. Kind regards, Gareth.2 points
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The car was sold to someone else so my decision was made for me. Maybe it was meant to be. Still, I’m interested in a 2.0TFSI Quattro Avant so the search continues. I’ll have a look on here, see if there’s anything for sale. Thanks everyone for your advice2 points
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Dealer or private sale Will? If the latter, my angle on any private sale is don’t get interested in purchasing any vehicle from anyone, unless it has a V5 registered to the owner at the address you are viewing it at. Length of ownership would also be important to me. It could end in tears. Kind regards, Gareth.2 points
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Hi There, thank you for your reply , I took the car to the paint shop and the people have this device that scans the paint you are trying to match , and brings up the paint code , so if anyone is needing the paint code for Audi Matt Grey it’s LMi7, thanks again for the help much appreciated .2 points
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Hi All. New to this forum. Based in Cork, Ireland- just added another car to the family 2003 225bhp, has been is storage for 10 years. Putting it back to stock2 points
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2 points
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When steel rusts it expands, thereby pushing adjacent parts away from each other. That's why rusty bolts are a swine to remove and brake discs are pushed out of alignment.2 points
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Fuses don't just "go" for no reason. They fuse because the circuits they protect are being over loaded. Evidently the fitting of the dash cam has caused such an overload so my suggestion is that you have it removed, or re-fitted by somebody who knows what he is doing.2 points
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Hi Charles, Obviously I dont know how long you will be staying in the S/Wales area, but if that light is staying on and a cause of concern, it might be worth a conversation with, or better still a visit to R-Tec. Anyway, best of luck getting it sorted.2 points
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Did your parking sensors deactivate when you plugged in your caravan as they should if it was coded and wired correctly. No fogs on your car makes me think that someone has made a mess of wiring in the tow socket2 points
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I would suggest employing a trusted auto electrician before considering replacing the seat - which seems rather extreme. If the motor will move the seat in one direction then it points to it at least being electrically efficient. Kind regards, Gareth.2 points
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Edward. I have just noticed you are in the USA where the legal situation will be rather different to Britain. Neverthless I doubt that the onus is on you to diagnose defects in a new car. If the car is defective there must surely be a way for you to reject it.2 points
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The Ultimate Lake District Waterfall Road Trip 💦🚗 This road trip will take you to some of the most breathtaking waterfalls in the Lake District. From the stunning Aira Force to the hidden beauty of Scale Force, you'll experience the wild and scenic side of the Lakes on this unforgettable adventure! 📍 Aira Force – One of the most famous waterfalls in the Lakes, surrounded by woodlands. 📍 Stock Ghyll Force 📍 Moss Force 📍 Scale Force – The tallest single drop waterfall in the Lake District. 📍 Stanley Ghyll Perfect for hikers, photographers, and nature lovers – this road trip showcases some of the Lake District’s most scenic spots! 🌿✨2 points
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Hello Rob, The recommended way to check compression is to remove all plugs before carrying out this procedure so the engine spins freely. As Cliff says 110psi is too low. Well worth repeating with the above procedure and you may find you get higher readings. Kind regards, Gareth.2 points
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Hello Charles, I live in South Wales and take my Audi S7 to R-Tec of Swansea 01792 897575 They have just moved to a new workshop facility in Gorseinon, Swansea and its an impressive set up. They do all Germen cars and high performance vehicles, but they specialise in Audi's. They do get busy and so if you need to book your car in, dont delay too long Regards Chris2 points
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You’ve probably heard of the saying ‘be careful what you wish for’. Well, I was/am that person. After what can only be described as an extensive search, I may have found one. Like most things in life, you don’t always get to try before you buy, albeit if it doesn’t live up to the manufacture’s claims you can ultimately send it back. I am not totally sure on the law here but I think you get 30 days. So, here we go, I’ve waffled on enough. It’s called the ‘MORFIT’. Wait for it! It’s £129.00 There is a cheaper one though, the standard is a mere £99.00. So guess what, I’ve gone the whole hog and bought the all singing all dancing £129.00 version. Having just fitted it today, I cannot yet recommend it! To be honest I’m not sure that at £129.00 I could ever recommend it. Basically, it’s all about my perspective vs yours. The best I can say is, watch this space and I will give you some feedback. Initially, I would say it is well made and is not an ugly addition to my drivers seat, blends well with my cloth seats. I spent an hour driving around today with no negativity. I’m sure it can be improved upon but first impressions I am happy. As I say, I’ll give you more feedback over the coming days/weeks. Watch this space (if you dare)! Terry2 points
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I'd recommend you speak to a local company that can remove locking wheel nuts as they look pretty knackered.2 points
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You were right Steve, it was the electrics in the end. The wiring loom underneath the ECU had been worked on previously but unfortunately not to a great standard. As such the current was leaking and not sufficient to drive the motor under strain. Fortunately I managed to find an outstanding auto electrician 👍 Thanks for your help2 points
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Thanks Steve I should also point out that I traded a very nice BMW 520d M Sport Touring 18 plate with 60k miles - reason for trade was that I wanted to pay off the loan I had for it and be loan free. I have had company cars for many years and opted out 3x years ago nearly and took a car allowance - the company state that the car must be 4x doors and some other stats that the Audi meets. I love cars and sprint/hill climb a classic Scimitar GT Coupe and also have another for weekend use I wanted a retro ride BUT with enough modernity to cruise up and down the motorway for work and my lids University visits as well as something quick and frugal - it also had to be reliable with quality history and proven mechanics First car I looked at was an Audi 100 2.3e saloon - very nice great condition for year (1989) - a few things to put right so passed as I haven't got the time at present - £3,995 Next car was a Volvo V70R Estate 2wd and a manual - lovely car again and engine rebuilt professionally - drove beautifully and very fast (340 bhp) - a little too Moddy for my wife - £9,000 Next was a couple of Jag XJ's 3.0d - I love the shape and individuality BUT not the reputation - however some great bargains out there I looked at an Audi 100 Avant Turbo online at £11,995 - great iconic car BUT undersealed and didn't have the time to visit and inspect properly I always admired and loved the Audi A8 - the car in the film Ronin - a beautiful D2 S8 - and having driven 2x Audi's as company cars loved their individual style and design emanating from that ground breaking Audi 100 CD that I travelled in as a kid when my girlfriends Father drove us up the M6 - at that time my Dad had a Volvo 760 GLE which was great BUT the Audi was technologically and design wise light years ahead....in my view:) Like reading the leaflet in a prescribed set of drugs - reading online the horror stories of large expensive cars as a second-hand option for mere mortals with an exhaustive income is daunting reading BUT like anything doing your homework is essential - I have tried to do this with this car and think I have found a very nice well looked after example - when speaking with the Independent Garages who serviced the car they remembered the 2nd owner well who owned it for 12x years and confirmed that he only wanted Audi OEM Filters/Oil and barking parts - the check report showed no accidents or insurance claims - the colour was advertised as Phantom Black - its not its standard black and - it has had its rear nearside quarter pained and its not the greatest BUT will redo - lastly the only thing I found after washing the weekend was slight corrosion at the top 2x corners of the windscreen on the roof?? I will again get this done (anyone else seen this?) I will keep you updated of progress Heres some pics2 points
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If you have emptied the system you will need to do a pressure bleed and cycle the ABS pump with VCDS. that is the only way you can remove all theair. I purchased a pressure bkeader from Eba and it workes the charm bleeding brakes. Start the bleed with the cylender farthest away from the master ctlender., LR, RR, LF, RF and dont forhet your clutch slave cylender if it has a manual transmission.2 points
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Hi only Audi can code the new keys as they have exclusive rights to them and wont release them, I needed a spare key for my daughters Q3 so I propositioned the mobile locksmith my garage uses and he said he couldn't do it for love nor money as Audi only have the codes and even if you got the right key second hand the chip inside needs recoding and be accepted by the dealership mainframe computer. I did enquire how much for a new key from Audi, just over £400, BTW coding a battery is a much simpler process. Steve.2 points
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Bit of an update picked my car up from the dealer today, basically they’ve done a full inspection and while they did hear some rubbing while moving the car and while on the lift they’ve put it down to brake disc rust. The courtesy A1 they gave me with only 45 miles on it had a slight rubbing noise when braking at slow speed, which could be down to pad materials, but quieter than what I’m experiencing at the moment. Their conclusion is that the brakes are fine, and the noise should go away after more use. So, I suppose I need to play the game a bit longer and go back when it’s still a problem in a month or so. As a side note, definitely made the right choice with the A3, the A1 felt very basic in comparison with a similar spec level, but still a nice little car, if not a bit pricey.2 points
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It is cam chain. No reason to replace unless you have rattle at start up. Regular oil and filter changes will help keep the engine in good condition, ideally around 8k miles. Ignore long life service regimes, that’s what kills engines. If for arguments sake it needed replacement chains, guides, sprockets and tensioners, it’s an engine out job. Check out VAG Technic on YouTube. On performance Audi RS and S models, they are constantly stripping them down due to premature fault with rocker arms and needle bearings. In terms of maintenance then pretty sure this is 218 is S Tronic 7-speed box. Needs gear oil and filter change every 40k miles. Fuel filter every 20k miles. Once you get to 100k miles, treat rear diff to a fluid change. Worth investing in VCDS even if you’re not spanner handy, as will pinpoint fault codes, and useful for things like coding battery, etc. Gave up on main dealers years ago due to ludicrous costs. Find a trusted garage that knows these cars inside out. It’s got air suspension which is pretty robust.2 points
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Newbie to the forum here. Picked up my A3 Sportback 35 TSFI 8Y facelift just over a week ago, and I’m experiencing the same grinding noise coming from the rear passenger side. It was ex-demo, six months old, but still only low mileage (2,500), its with Bristol Audi at the moment, but they are blaming rust too, which we've all experienced before, but having done 200 miles with some heavy motorway braking yesterday and still hearing the noise when arriving home I’m not convinced. Interesting others are having the same issue from the same wheel, at first I wondered if it might be part of the mild hybrid recuperation or the parking brake biting a little.2 points
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There are good and bad independants, just as there are good and bad main dealers. You will have to research the reputations of those near you for yourself. As a generalisation I recommend independants because they give better service and are more approachable. Often they are also cheaper. Bear in mind that independants survive solely on their reputations; unlike main dealers there is no central organisation behind them to prop them up.2 points
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Hi, It`s behind the glove box towards the central console. If you remove the glove box you can see the pipes and the core, however, to remove it as someone said previously in this thread you will need to remove part of your heaterbox fan. Someone said it took around 2 hours to get it changed with lots of screws. I plan to change mine soon, maybe in a couple of weeks and I plan to take a few pictures of the steps and post them here.1 point
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Hi Terry, I've had imports befor eand they were the most reliable cars i have had. Perhaps the two seconds of rattling you heard was just before the oil got all the way round due to the excessive cold?1 point
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Do you really mean the tank can not be filled, or is the problem actually that the fuel guage does not show full?1 point
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Hello Harry, Pretty sure there have been posts on this subject in the past, so well worth a forum search.1 point
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The 1.4 litre petrol engine was notorious for a few years for its enormous oil consumption. I don't recall which years were affected so it would be worth researching to determine if yours is one of them. Whatever the result, take it back to the dealer.1 point
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How long have you had it and did you buy it from a dealer? If bought from a dealer in the last 30 days it's their responsibility to repair it free of charge as you can return the car for a full refund In that time.1 point
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Hi, in my Audi A4 2015 the apple carplay feature is rather inconsistent and sometimes it won't work at all. I have two ports for the apple carplay and both of them seem to be the same. It works most of the time but if it's not worked for the initial start up of the car it won't work until the next time it's started again. The phone always gets a connection as I can see it being on charge, however the apple carplay won't be working. I have tried using different cables or phones and that does not change anything. I am unaware if this could be an MMI software issue where I have to update the version of it. Anyone seen this issue before? Thank you in advance.1 point