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Hi everyone, I'm new on here and just finding my way around the site. I recently bought a 2016 A5 S-Line plus coupe Black Edition 2.0 Auto in Dakota Grey. Before that I had a 2006 A4 2.0 SE Quattro (170). I love my new car, but due to the ongoing lockdown and travel restrictions, I've not been able to take it for a proper drive. I'm into my football and I've had a season ticket at Celtic Park for 10 years. I skydive as a hobby, but like the football and driving the new car, I'm unable to participate in any of the above at the moment.

Thanks for your advice Gareth, looks like a long wait till he's back to normal..

Good morning all, I've just joined the Club and am not very familiar with Forums so if I have posted in the wrong place or broken any unwritten rules then apologies. I've just bought the attached 2004 Audi S4 4.2L V8 Quattro and am looking for a subtle bumper enhancement to give it a bit more presence. I stumbled across a bumper addition to a similar car (see the lip circled in the attached) which I think looks great. I don't know for sure if this is after market or an Audi option and cannot find it anywhere (after ages looping around Google). I would really appreciate any help tracking it down or suggestions for other bodykits which might work well with my car. All suggestions welcome! Thanks Steve

Some nice cars on those lists. Mine would be Bentley Continental GT Range Rover Autobiography (full fat RR) Maserati Quattroporte Jaguar XJS convertible Land Rover series 2 Hmmm, did the lottery numbers come right?

Looking forward to some nice weather at the weekend so I can get the polish out!

Thanks for the tips, I will look at getting the tar remover and clay as the paint is definitely feeling a little 'bitty. in places.

This is my pair 😂.

Hello everyone, I'm Matt and thought I would briefly introduce myself and my 2005 (55) S4 B7 4.2V8 Quattro. I bought my S4 in March 2018 as a treat to myself following some tough times. Two years on and I still can't drive it, but I'm determined that's going to change this year. If anyone can recommend a good place to get engine parts at OEM or uprated standard without paying stealer prices, I'm all ears! 😊

Hi everyone, hope everybody is keeping safe from this terrible virus. Here's some photos of my A1 s line 30 tfsi 2019 model

Thanks Gareth... No, you're right, it certainly is interesting, and frustrating, and annoying, and stressful, etc. Lol I'm happy to change the CTS as I'm now not convinced it's the relay. Since changing the CSS it appears to start well from cold, but still demonstrates some starting Issues when hot/warm, but not quite as severe, and I'm not sure engine heat would affect the relay, unless of course the relay is overheating because of its fault... 😳 I've got plenty of time to think now, so I'll keep researching. 😊 Thanks, Paul.

Just thought I'd give it a quick go after it'd cooled a little; 1) fail but tried 2) fail 3) fail 4) fail 5) normal start, like it just decided to be normal... The above is a new pattern... After some thought & more research I don't think it's the coolant sensor, but I am leaning very much towards the fuel relay, as originally suggested by Gareth above...! From what I've read & learned, the fuel relay is triggard by the Camshaft Sensor, only after the engine starts cranking. Once the engine fires the Camshaft Sensor passes over control to the Crankshaft sensor. Now, I have a brand new OEM Crankshaft Sensor, so that is not (should not be) at fault. It's not the Crankshaft Sensor, otherwise I'd have problems after it started running, surely. This leaves the fuel relay; I say this because when running there are no issues whatsoever, no miss-fires, no stalls, power delivery is normal. The relay is what trigars the fuel pump to start pumping. Now, if the pump was faulty then surely I would have issues while running too, would I not...? This leaves the fuel relay (IMHO)... Any thoughts, anyone...? 😁 Thanks, Paul.

ok jon, thanks for that. when he changes the indicator i'm having the old one, so i can play with it 😄 cheers, dd.

Talk

Just for the benefit of others I am posting details of the location of the airbag control unit on a manual A6 C6 (2006) UK saloon and also the solution to my problem. The unit is bolted onto the transmission tunnel behind the gear lever and between the seats. You cannot see it even when the centre console has been partially dismantled because it is under both the rubber car soundproofing and the plastic ventilation/heater tunnel that runs down the length of the centre console. It's a pain in the **** to get to but for those that need to test or replace this unit my advice follows but first some info on how I solved my issue. It started with a parking brake and airbag warning message and lights on the dash coming up. I could operate the electronic parking brake on and off manually but it would not auto release. This quickly escalated to a full Christmas tree of lights on the dash warning of ABS, ESP and parking brake/brake faults. The car would still drive but none of the systems were active. The car had been analysed by an independent Audi specialist and showed a fault code 01321 that meant there was no signal/communication with the airbag control unit J234. There was also fault code 01316 showing a parking brake issue. Turns out both were related. The garage advice was "Further investigation needed to check voltages to and from the airbag control module". The independent was happy for me to dismantle the car and expose the airbag control unit for them to test it. All the advice on the internet is not to try and test it yourself as you could inadvertently trigger any number of airbags. After I'd spent hours finding/exposing the airbag control unit I thought I'd study all the fuses and any related relays to see if there was possibly an issue. I'd previously discounted a fuse because the problem had, on a couple of occasions, self righted so if a fuse had blown how could that happen? How wrong I was - I could have saved myself hours of research and dismantling had I done the fuse check earlier. There are three related fuses - number 10 (airbag) on the brown fuse strip on the passenger (UK) side of the dashboard, fuse F7 (parking brake) in the boot jack compartment and finally fuse 23 (parking brake) on the drivers side of the dashboard. Here is a really useful link to all A6 C6 relays and fuses. https://fusesdiagram.com/audi/fuses-and-relay-audi-a6-c6.html My issue was with fuse 23 and almost certainly a 'one off' but it does send out a message to check the bl**dy obvious first before assuming that something more serious is amiss. I'd had a dash cam professionally fitted over a year ago and the correct ‘piggy back' fuse holder had been used to tap into an 'ignition live' source. The fitter had chosen fuse 23 and for some reason over a period of time the new fuse holder had worked loose. My theory is that the spades on the new fuse holder aren't quite long enough so it wasn't in that tightly to start with. Bumps/potholes etc must have gradually dislodged it but only on one side so the dash cam was still picking up a live feed but the parking brake was only getting an intermittent contact originally and then none at all. I know the fitter and he was amazed because that to his knowledge it was the first ever instance of it happening. From my point of view hindsight is a wonderful thing but happy to know it was a no cost fix rather than having to potentially replace a very expensive airbag control unit. If you are still with me here's how to access the airbag control unit J234. First dismantle the front part of the centre console following the advice in this YouTube video. https://youtu.be/SH1PrInREi4 Very good but you don’t need special tools to remove the rear centre console vent - two bent wire coat hangers did it for me. You then need to remove the light coloured plastic console 'skeleton' starting by taking off the three press on carpet clips each side. There are two torx screws at the back of the 'skeleton' two at each side and two at the top front. You also have to undo the four 10mm nuts that attach the metal frame to the transmission tunnel at the rear of the 'skeleton'. You then have access to the plastic heating/ventilation tube that runs from front to back of the console. This however won't come out until you take out the four bolts around the gear lever and the two bolts front and back of the gear lever to drop the black metal plate out of the way. Some tugging and persuading will then enable you to remove the tube. Peel back the soundproofing and there is the airbag control unit! Apologies for the length of this post but hope it will help at least one person in some way!

Hello? ( why are we having a spate of anonymous posters?) - Sorry! Anyway, I feel for your plight in selling your car in these very troubled times. They always say there is always a buyer for anything, but if what I read is correct, the used car market is already on its knees - and that is before any official lockdown on movements which may be enforced. What I understand is that you should be sitting down before entering your registration number on the We Buy any Car website. Such is the dramatic drop in prices since these worrying times have been announced. Yes, I know their prices are low at the best of times, but they do have a significant influence on the used car market. Of course, whatever price decrease affects your car, will also affect your proposed purchase so it’s back to the old important but often ignored ‘ cost to change’ . So it may not be all bad news. As much as we may worry about the values of our cars - if we have to sell them - it’s worth bearing in mind the concerns that used vehicle retailers must have about this year’s rapid growth and stock levels of used vans. Now there’s a worry if you are stuck with these. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Gareth, Thanks for the advice. I'll look at that. The thing that's confusing me, is that it doesn't appear to be permeant, just 95% of the time. I'd prefer it if it stayed broken so I could fix it... Lol Thanks, Paul.

My garage charged me 2 hrs and said it looked an awkward job but turned out to not be that bad, you could diy The switch is on the master cylinder and is not available as a seperate item even though it is removable from the assembly. Audi wanted £170 for cylinder, I got this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233428279963

Could be the handbrake module,Get someone local to plug VCDS in and check any codes, car won't start unless pressing clutch is normal.

Thanks Trevor We have been messaging in facebook and it looks like a number of us are still going

Just to answer myself, replaced the clutch master cylinder, car now starts ok, handbrake releases ok, gearchange recommendation has returned and strangely the radiator fan which was starting when the engine was switched off is also now normal, strange.

Thanks Trevor, it is quite swift,,,, more so than I thought.

Hi all just dropping by to say hi , new member but life long Audi owner .. I’m lucky enough to to have owned GT’s , 80’s , 90’s & B5’s ... current car is ‘92 manual 100 S4 avant .. she’s been in the family since early 2000 , little tired in places but still one of the best drives ..

Hi Stuart.....welcome to you and your fine Audi Good to have you onboard

Hi all. Previously owned a c5 rs6, stage 2 remapped and running around 520bhp. Stupidly sold it tho about 6 years ago and have had an itch ever since. Itch has been scratched now tho with the arrival of a stage 2 c6 rs6, 2008 with 60k miles. Over 20k worth of recipts and the dreaded oil seal and coolant pipe already done. What a machine lol. Currently running around 745bhp, but is very usable and smooth when just pottering about. Stand on the loud peddle tho and warp 10 engages fairly quickly lol. Will do some decent pics etc once i have finished playing and given her a full detail

Speaking as an occasional poster. I appreciate all the advice I get. As soon as I buy a car, I join the appropriate forum. My mechanic does most of my work, but he is old school, so I often go in to collect the car, and he will tell me what he has done, and what he didn't have time for. Basically, if it is fitted with a nut and bolt, he is THE MAN, other than that, it depends. But, yes, please don't stop posting you petrol/diesel heads are great. THANKS 🙂

Hi Gareth, The Sensor was marketed as 'Bilstein', so not sure tbh. I'm still going to buy VAG Camshaft & Coolant Sensors, just to make sure. I'm also going to get a new fuel filter, just to make sure; maybe even a Cranshaft Sensor too, but will buy that if all alse fails. :0) Thanks again, Paul.

Hi Gareth, Thank you very much for your in depth reply; there is certainly food for thought. I hadn't even considered the coolant temperature sensor, but will look in to this. I will also look at your other suggestions... I actually reinstalled the original Camshaft Sensor, which did eliminate the affects of the aftermarket sensor (Bilstein I think). Update: I went out today and although the cold start was as expected, my engine started first time on both warm starts, one at Tesco and the other at the petrol station, which was the major issue I was having. I will post further updates as the week goes on... I still haven't noted the engine codes, which I will do tomorrow. :0) Thanks again, Paul.

If the ECU is over-fuelling the engine you'll get a lot of black smoke out of the exhaust every time you put your foot down. You really need to find a diesel specialist who will be able to diagnose and cure this Don't rely on the consumption figures displayed on the dash, especially if the fuel gauge isn't working properly - they're woefully optimistic at best. If you want an accurate picture of your fuel consumption, do it long hand - knowing how to use Excel can help here! Next time you fill up, reset the trip meter to zero; at the following fill up, fill the tank to capacity. Note what mileage is displayed, and make a note of the number of litres purchased (or the total cost and cost per litre). Reset the trip to zero again. To work out your actual fuel consumption in mpg, proceed as follows - 1. Work out how many gallons you've bought - divide the total price you paid by the price per litre, to obtain the number of litres purchased. Divide the result by 4.546 - this will give the number of gallons that you have bought. (Example - £50 total divided by £1.249 = 40.03 litres; 40.03 divided by 4.546 = 8.81 gallons). 2. Divide the number of miles covered since the last fill up, by the number of gallons you've just purchased - this will give you your actual mpg. (Example - 300 miles divided by 8.81 gallons = 34.1mpg) You'll find that this figure will vary quite a lot from what's displayed on your dash. Also, pay attention to your tyre pressures. An under-inflated tyre can really drag your consumption figures down

I know what you mean Gareth, it does seem that there's very little meaningful interaction on this forum - it's much the same on the A5 Owner's Club forum. There seem to be a lot of people viewing posts but very few actually contributing to the forum. I think that the issue is that there are fewer petrol/diesel heads about, and many more people who have a passing interest in cars - I suspect that the latter are in the greater majority here. I also think the fact that an Audi is now much more a lifestyle statement than ever before ("Look at me, I've got an Audi!! I don't know or much care what makes it tick, but I've got one!!!) and you've got a recipe for little if any interaction. Shame - the VW scene is much more vibrant. Luckily I have both so I can get my fix one way or the other!!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-Cross-Pro-Mavic-rare-full-suspension-retro-vintage-bike-mtb-xc-or-gravel/163959925106?hash=item262cc5e972:g:eUQAAOSwR-9d2xXf

Thanks for the replies, I think I;m considering buying a replacement car instead of repairing the DSG box as I probably need a change after 10 years of ownership. For info the DSG (direct Shift Gearbox) system comprises of a 6 speed gearbox with a twin clutch arrangement and electronic control system. The system automatically uses the twin clutch to seamlessly change gears based on throttle input and other factors. A DMF flywheel is used to smooth out imbalances in the drivetrain much like a manual car but the clutch is a multi plate arrangement a bit like a motorbike. Its a good system and works well but the DMF flywheel wears out the same as on manual cars. I guess I'm lucky to have done over 170k miles without issue. On the other hand I guess that £1300 isnt too bad if it keeps running for a while longer, decisions, decisions 🙂

This bike cost 3490 euros in 2003 believe it or not.

I have only had the car 3months now and had just over 3mm on the fronts and over 4mm on the rears, i know that the fronts are continental but don't know version, and the rears have a mix of continental and Dunlop again not sure on the models. I fully understand that the info I provided wasn't the best as I haven't really listed what is currently in use

LOL - What a difference one word makes. sorry meant to say. However, I was really looking for a response from an Audi owner who has the same engine and is actually using such a dipstick, with those measurements.

I wonder if we should all join forces on this, we are all being treated incredibly badly and we're all being told the same thing about the issues with this model. I feel that all in Audi are well versed in what they are telling people in order that they don't have to shell out thousands.... the reality is we've all shelled out thousands and we're left with a product that is not fit for purpose. Surely they are breaking the law? could we all use the same legal representative? something has to be done as my frustration is turning to anger...

Just to update. Cars been into the garage today for full service and to sort out the problem. It was sticky/ ceased callipers In the end. So a full new front set of brakes yay. Fingers crossed all sorted now.

hi i am having same trouble with my audi same doors like your only thing to do is take locks out get the number of it then go on ebay type number in they are about £26/30 each it is a easy job to do if not sure go on you tube hope this help you

Problem solved!!! It turns out that the alarm horn has an internal battery - which is prone to leaking all over the PCB inside. Took me ages to find it - It was tucked up by the nearside A pillar - behind the ECU plastic box. The only bit you can see is a bolt, the horn itself is completely hidden. Had to remove the scuttle panel, both wiper arms, the windscreen deflector panel and finally remove the lid of the ECU container! Replacement off ebay was £16!! Mark

Car Finally arrived, it will take a while to work out how everything works on this vehicle. So many different functions and switches.

Even when they have the software update how confident do you feel driving. So far its cut out on me twice Audi uk are a joke and so are the dealerships to be honest. If this doesn't get dealt with soon someone is going to have an accident and it will be on their heads. I have now issued the finance with a letter for to take the matter further and if need be court action. Def speak to your finance (mines is vw) but dont hold your hopes up I wasted 3 months of my time and I was always calling them. Once you go through the process with them its then onto the financial ombusman to take it further. Feel free to message me if you want

Contact Mark Brodie (Brotek) on the Audi S4 Owners Group on Facebook, he can supply pretty much anything Audi. I bought a dipstick for my 15 plate S4 from him.

Hi, As of yet no I still have the car. Apparently there is a software update available in May. I’m don’t hold much hope that it will fix all the issues. I am still requesting a rejection on the car but getting myself a solicitor. Regards

Ok found out what is wrong. The cam that lifts the hinge had popped out but with my continued attempts to resolve the problem with the button I ended up shearing the bracket that anchors the motor to the body. Looks like £3.25 for a new bracket so hopefully soon mended. I’ll get the guys to also set my desired height using VCDS. Thanks for all the suggestions.

No issues for my Q7, (had it for 10 months now). I would say that there is something inside the mechanism but as it is so newly purchased from Audi used, it will get fixed. Annoying though.