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Had the same issue. Just give the polystyrene holder a firm pull and it will come out.

@Magnet No Gareth. £695.00 for the two years cover - paid upfront OR a 24 monthly payments. No interest. You've added the upfront payment to the 24x monthly ones and so paying twice for everything! 🙂 Give me credit Gareth! My fairly 'local' garage that i know, deal mainly with 4x4s. They'd be wanting in excess of £695 to match the equivalent of what the Audi garage will do and give. The £695 also includes 2 MOTs I’m happy to put my trust in a garage with qualified Audi engineers.

I had a loose wheel speed sensor that was throwing up similar problems with warning lights, might be worth checking mate.

It appears you can, you are 100% right. Matrix LED headlights Upgrade your headlights with Audi Matrix LED technology. Individual diodes automatically switch between dipped and main beam and provide maximum illumination of the road, without dazzling other road users. Light function package Unlock an extra lighting function that adapts to surroundings to enhance visibility when on motorways, cornering and at junctions. The Light function package also includes lighting ‘animations’ that play when locking and unlocking your car. High beam assist Upgrade to High beam assist to enable the headlights to automatically detect oncoming traffic, the rear lights of other road users and light sources in built-up areas. The High beam is switched on or off automatically, depending on the traffic situation.

Front wheel arch liner needs to come off (usually Torx head screws), and depending on location, engine tray too. Parts made by Valeo. Good opportunity to clean out annyway. Easy enough to prep yourself as Audi will charge small fortune for colour coded one. Make a mask template with card, lightly key PDC sensor with 1500 grit sandpaper, wipe sensor with isopropyl alcohol. First coat of plastic primer, couple of top colour coats and followed by a couple of clear lacquer flash coats. Read you can cure paint by popping in oven for a few minutes (without the rubber ‘o’ ring, but think I’d miss that part out, and just don’t jet-wash directly for a few weeks.

Refurburbishing alloys is a thankless task, and to be honest it’s one of these things best left to the professionals and powder coating, rebalance, etc. That’s different if it was just a scuff, but this is a full strip-down. The time, cost of materials, including zinc etch primer, base coat primer, colour coat and a few coats of lacquer soon mounts up. If you’re determined to do it, then the alloys need to be spotless. Paint wise, then Würth silver metallic is as close to Audi OE as you’ll get.

Hi all. Thanks for the advice about the fault. Back from Audi garage. Fault found with replacement switch I bought. They’ve done a diagnostic check and fitted new one. All OK now.

Could be a heat shield rattling on the exhaust. Or an issue with the suspension arms when underload.

Thanks Gareth, You're spot on. The replacement window motor didn't solve the problem. However I decided to have a closer look and the wiring loom and found two wires with splits in the plastic coating. I repaired these with insulating tape and it's fixed!

Hey Guys, First time on this forum! I bought an A6 C8 in August 2024, everything seemed well until I noticed a huge puddle behind the drivers seat footwell a few weeks ago. It appears its the same/similar problem everyone is also experiencing, took it to Audi Manchester a few days ago for a check - £145 an hour! they said they needed another 8-10 hours to remove the seats and carpet to identify the leak!! Decided not to pay the £1400 minimum and took the car home. My issue is exactly the same as Mandeep. Will be taking it to an independant garage for a diagnosis (cheaper labour rate) In the meantime drafted a letter to send to Audi head office, I will paste it below in case anyone else needs to use the draft etc Going off all the posts above i'm sure Audi are aware of the issue, whether they will honour the repair remains to be seen, but not holding my breath. I will report back once I have had a response from head office. Dear Audi Customer Services, I hope this message finds you well. My name is ******* *****, and I am reaching out to formally raise an issue with my Audi A6 C8, which I believe stems from a known design flaw. I have been experiencing water pooling under the carpet in the rear footwell, specifically behind the driver’s seat. After conducting some research, I discovered that this is a common problem among Audi A6 C8 owners, and Audi has issued a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) outlining the issue as a design fault. You can view the TSB here: TSB - Audi A6 C8 Water Leak Additionally, I came across this thread on the Audi Owners Club, where other owners have reported the same issue: Discussion Thread - Audi Owners Club This issue is one that Audi is already aware of, and it has even led to a class action lawsuit against the company, specifically related to the water leaks in the Audi A6 C8. This highlights the extent of the problem and reinforces that it is not an isolated issue, but a design flaw that has affected many owners. Despite this being a known problem, I recently paid £152 for a diagnostic check at Manchester Audi, yet they were unable to identify the source of the leak. However, based on my online findings, the TSB issued by Audi, and the class action lawsuit, it is clear that this is not an isolated incident and is related to a design issue, rather than something I have caused or neglected. I am aware that Audi has previously honoured this issue and, on occasion, has fixed the problem free of charge for affected customers. Given that this is a design flaw and not an error on my part, I kindly request that Audi UK address the issue in a similar manner, as a goodwill gesture. I trust that Audi UK will stand by the quality of its vehicles and rectify this issue without further delay. I would appreciate a swift resolution and look forward to your prompt response. Thank you for your attention to this matter. I hope this letter helps someone who may need it.

There seem to be a lot of unknown factors in this conversion Steve, any one of which could bring the project to a dead stop. It is not something I would have taken on even 40 years ago when I was willing and able to get my hands dirty, unless there was certainty about the result.

Thank you.

Brilliant mate, glad you stuck with it and got it sorted. Well done.

SOLVED. I found an index for code in the Steering Column control unit, 3 of the values were incorrect, rewritten - warning symbols have disappeared and power steering is working again. Thank you for the advice.

From the 2018 broshure it looks like it is only in the City Assist pack. Front pre-sense is standard, but rear only with pack. This is the City Assist info and has 3 parts: Audi Side Assist When activated, the system aids the driver when changing lanes. Audi Side Assist monitors the area behind the vehicle, using radar sensors located discreetly in the rear bumper, informing the driver with a visual warning signal in the door mirror if there is a vehicle in their blind spot or approaching quickly from behind Pre-sense Rear Monitors vehicles following from behind, and if a potential collision is detected, the driver is first warned visually via a flashing light. Audi Pre-sense Basic measures (e.g. closing windows) are initiated and then if a collision is unavoidable, the system will tighten the front seat belts. The system is deactivated when towing Cross Traffic Assist Front Within system limits, warns the driver of traffic crossing in front or to the side of the vehicle, using vehicle sensors. The system first alerts the driver visually and then acoustically via the MMI. A brake jolt is applied if a potential collision is detected. The system can also assist the driver at crossings and exits with poor visibility, and warn against a possible collision with oncoming traffic detected from the side

Hi Frank, I agree with all the comments you've received so far, but cant emphasise enough the importance of the offset. I have gone through a wheel changing exercise myself on my Audi and it took me months and months to find wheels I liked and that would fit. The offset can determine where on the hub the wheel will sit and whether its likely to fowl any brake or suspension components. Fortunately there are easily accessible websites that can give you a guide indication of how your new wheel will fit, they will ask you for your existing wheel fitment and the new wheel fitment your proposing. They will ask you for the existing and new wheel radius and width, and also existing and new tyre sizes. They will also ask you for the offset of both existing and new wheels. The offset is often referred to as the 'ET' followed by 2 numbers and this is usually stamped in the wheels casting on the back of the rim. Just as an example my existing wheels had an offset of ET31 (stamped on the reverse of the rim) and the new wheels I was proposing had an offset of ET40. If you want a smooth and not so bumpy ride, try and and avoid tyres with a profile of less that 40. Hope this is helpful

I'll be watching this thread with interest as I have a Cobra alarm fitted to my 1988 Coupe GT. I want to remove/replace it but the car works at the moment........

Yes its resolved, they replaced the outer cv joint again , they think the 1st one was faulty out of the box . Regards

Right guys, I sent all 6 injectors off to be tested, low and behold, injector 3 has zero flow on idle. Got it rebuild, fitted it this evening, and I've got a smooth idle! Took it for a drive, no fault codes and no lights. Low rail pressure seems to have disappeared now too. Just want to say a massive thank you to everyone that gave advise. I can finally get back to work now 😂! Cheers once again!

Quick update on the gearbox issue. Mechanic told me to disconnect battery. Reconnected after half hour and to be fair the gearbox shifted seamlessly then went back into fault from 1-2. I’ve just got the stage 1 remap removed today and no issues at all so far. I’m wondering if the ecu map has caused this as I didn’t get the tcu done. It’s now booked in on the 7th to get looked at anyway. It’s so slow tho.

My bet would be the alarm too. The only way to find it would be to trave the wires from the fusebox. This should be obvious as they'll look different to the rest of the stock loom. Unfortunately these aftermarket alarms can be a problem. If you get a chance watch the old top gear challenge with the 3 series convertibles. Hamonds one had a similar problem.

If this is the engine you have the red box is the electronic EGR control valve, the green box is the vacuum operated EGR cooling flap solenoid.

You can buy sticker kits from ebay that go over the original switches. Very common issue on Audi's of that era. My A6 is the same. https://ebay.us/m/8AMJc7

Just to add if you're needing someone to fit it, then it's worth looking at autologics or Audi retrofits as members have used them and been pleased with the results.

Can’t hear the video, but to be honest between road noice and background noise, these sort of videos rarely identify culprit. If you had new outer CV joint, that may have contributed, especially if drive shaft boot was torn and and CV joint was open to the elements and contaminated. if you’ve got a worn wheel bearing then you’ll hear constant reverberating sound, around about 40-50mph. You might be able to pinpoint if you jack up car, and hold the coil spring and get someone to rotate the wheel. Any friction on the bearing will transfer to the spring which you should feel. Straight forward if your spanner handy, although I hate generation 2 bearings which are the press in hub variety on VW Polos for example. If generation 3 wheel bearing, then they are held in place with triple square bolts. Useful to have air hammer as the bearing is usually welded in with oxide corrosion if an alloy strut. You’ll need a breaker bar, torque wrench, etc. Fit quality F.A.G. Bearings given labour involved.

You can order the matrix lights on the myAudi app. I think one off £1 for a month initially on most the in app addons but thereafter user term choice and price dependant on pack.

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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones. p.s. Please avoid using non specific locations such as U.K., England etc. etc.

Is your fuel gauge working ok? Gauge needs to show at least 1/4 tank or DPF wont trigger. My gauge had an intermittant fault resulting in no DPF regen and car going into limp mode. I replaced the fuel gauge sensor and DPF immediately started.

Fingers crossed.

Hi all. Yes. It’s chain. Air filter was changed at my request when I bought it. Only done 15,000 since then. Brake fluid due to be changed at service in May 2026. I’m getting a freebe but cost is normally £90. Local garage quoted same.

Hope this link to online ETKA helps 😄 Online etka https://ifinterface.com/prog/car/cp2/inprog.php Welcome >> Free services >> Carprog2

Instrument cluster failure is well known on the 8p. If you've bought it from a dealer then get it back to them asap.

Tons of them on Fleabay & Amazon, all pretty cheap.

I've decided to postpone my appointment with Audi, I need the car. Also, the car is running ok, so I'll just keep monitoring it for the time being.

Any good 3rd party fully integrated CAN bus tow-bar electronics will deal with all of the advanced features, however when I researched this these were at least twice the cost of a dumb system. In the end I opted for a genuine Audi tow-bar retrofit for a stupid amount of money but it just works and does lots of smart tweaks to the suspension, gearbox and engine that make towing 1.6 tonnes effortlessly.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 yep it can be changed. You're probably best going for an aftermarket apple car play/android auto set up. You can buy these online.

And no more AC, which is not what you want in this weather. Will you get it fixed?

I have just downloaded via the SD drive in my car a software 'patch' created by https://www.vagcarcoding.com This solved the software fault. DAB now fully operational.

To be honest Tony, I misread it as you suggesting TFSI not Steve. Apologies to you both. It's time I closed the computer and opened the wine.

Never mind what the seller told you, can he provide written evidence of the car's service history? If he can not, walk away from the deal unless you fancy some expensive repair bills. Relying on a video and the vendor's patter to inform a purchase decision is something you will regret for ever. Go see the car, drive it, and examine the paperwork. If you don't feel confident enough in your own judgement take a knowledgeable friend or get the car independently examined. I believe the RAC or AA can provide that service. Above all don't rush into a decision. If you miss out on this one there will always be another.

It's the DIS Efficiency Programme light, nothing to worry about. It just relates to things the effect your MPG, stuff like using your AC etc.

I have a complete set of front and rear seats with all door cards. All in excellent condition. Dark gray. Does anybody want these,free? rgds

The likely culprit is the EGR cooler which can leak coolant into the engine causing the white smoke. It's expensive to replace.

Thanks steve q for your time Take care.

Hi Rachel, touch wood it has not happened since I did this. Give it a go 😀

Thank you mate ,after a bit more digging and a bit of a disagreement with a guy on VCDS it appears I dont have this module in the car so this I why I could not access it , STG 13 > Coding > Byte 3 > Bit 3 Activate refers too (auto distance regulation) =adaptive cruise control ,as I dont have this on the car I dont need this section so all sorted Cheers Jim

Hi everyone Ive just retro fitted cruise control & DIS (driver information system) stalk to my 2006 B7 also did another lads from work last week. Its was fairly easy to do and for the £40 I paid for a second hand squib / levers , well worth the money! Ive put this video together on how to fit the stalks and run through the coding using a snap on scanner (in expert mode) Ive not gone into great detail explaining how I found the exact codes I needed to input but have put links to the rosstech site where the codes are explained a lot better , its fairly easy to get your head round once you have a quick read.. ive also put a link in the video description to a google drive file which again explains the procedures quite well. along as you can work out your correct codes you can follow my coding procedure but just entering the codes which suit your vehicle 🙂

Picked up a good compatible battery, however no place can code it for me until Wednesday. Still stuttering upon start up getting the low fuel pressure performance bank 2 code and mechanical fuel pump failure code, but on the plus side my fuel pressure pump arrives today in the mail along with my cam follower, so I’ll be replacing that today after I pick up a torque wrench, and goodies from ECS too are due to arrive. If the fuel pump doesn’t solve the issue with the misfires and rough starting then I’m going to break down and have the shop that codes the battery to the car go ahead and just go through everything.