Leaderboard

Jack. That belt is far too loose and is clearly jumping sprocket teeth. Since the belt also drives the camshaft there is a real risk of damaging the valves or the piston crowns, which would entail a horrendously expensive repair bill. Do not attempt to run the engine, or even turn it over on the starter, until it has been put right. If that means towing it to a garage or workshop, so be it, but the engine must not be run.

ive got the standard bose speakers and the front drivers side speaker rattles like made, ive tried tightening the screws on the speaker but nothing so thinking the speaker has gone. anyone else had thw same issue?

Sounds mint!

Hi everyone, I have bought myself an A6 C6 2.4 V6. I am a mechanic and am looking to get this car singing and firing on all cylinders. She is roadworthy, but with a few minor issues. Any help, on my first steps, would be very much, appreciated. Many thanks all, for reading this thread...

Got it up and ramps, for me no easier, cant even see to get close. Above impossible to see without taking those stupid hose clips off. So nipped out, new can of elec clean and the hose clip pliers. In the time i drove back and got up on ramps, i though best leave it incase any clip or pipe gives. Then i am stuck. The best i could i aimed copious amounts of elec clean. The gauge actually worked 90% of the time i was out........ So next week it is, not worth being totally stranded. Ordered the sensor as a back up, just in case(as they do order on the day) they cant get one straight away. Bought a febi bilstein OE one for £12. Audi OE 059919501A

Hello Mark, Access?? Sometimes/often attacked from below - if you are blessed with/have access to a pit or hoist - but who has normally! Even taking the undershield off on your back on the floor takes some doing, leave alone then getting underneath to get up to components from under. I guess that’s why investing in an hour’s labour at a trusted local garage becomes worthwhile. Having said that Mark, it could well be worth changing the sensor at the same time if resorting to this. If so, I would suggest only using Bosch if not a genuine VAG one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, From your description of the symptoms, it sounds more like a connection issue rather than a sensor fault. Generally sensors fail and don’t revive. I would be first be armed with a can of contact cleaner and starting there. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi, There are 518 2014-onwards Avants for sale on Autotrader, of which 443 are Automatics. The A6 is an "executive car" and there mostly chosen as autos, as most "executives" want the gears changed for them! Now you know why manuals are well priced. A manual A6 will be easier to shift then a manual Mercedes E-class however.

Hey Manish, I've just booked my 2010 car into a small garage in Hampton Court on Monday to look at the air-con. I'll let you know how i get on. FYI it's "JP Garage" - 39 Hampton Ct Rd, Molesey, East Molesey KT8 9BY - German Car Specialists for cars over 3 years old. The have a website also if you want to check it out. These are the things they cover below. I cannot recommend them yet until i see how they deal with mine. Air Con Batteries Clutches Exhausts Timeing Belts Brakes Tyers Power Steering Suspension and Catalytic Converters ART

It's always good when the other half approves! 🙂

System was pressure tested and all fine. Decided to change the heater matrix as a last resort. Seems to have done the trick despite being able to run water through the old matrix. Decide to cut open the old matrix and found it to be full of a murky sludge which definately would have reduced flow. Fingers crossed its solved this problem for good.

You're welcome 😊 it's definitely great when you can be buzzing about the car you drive 👍 hope the timing chain issue gets sorted easily enough.

This is a great thread ☺️ thanks for keeping us updated 👍

Hello Alex, Since you have done the job many times and got away with simply pushing the pistons back and displacing the fluid ‘in reverse’ then chances are you might continue to get way with no ill effects. However, the proper way would be as Mr. Haynes states, and disperse the ‘rejected’ fluid out through the bleed nipple, thereby taking away any chance of ill-doings by reversing fluid back into the system. You know it makes sense as Del used to say! Kind regards, Gareth. (aka Anyone in your capitals)

Friend or not, I'm sorry to say that he has not fitted the belt correctly, and my advice stands. You have not answered Gareth's questions about whether the belt and tensioner were also renewed. The curious thing is that the water pump is normally changed as a pre-emptive measure when the cam belt is changed because of the difficulty, and hence cost, of access to the belt.

Thanks Daryl, Valeo as opposed to LUK - why?. Price? Spend once, spend wisely, particularly since you enjoy ‘spirited’ driving. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Daryl, Of course Cliff is right - you must claim against the seller. If they don’t respond, say by the end of the week, then I’d be tempted to issue them with a Small Claims court claim. Clutches and costs? Main dealer clutch components are expensive/uneconomical, so resorting to an aftermarket one makes sense in this case. Personally, I would only go for a LUK make. You could then ask for a labour cost from a trusted local garage. ‘Just switched from a Scooby’. Would you describe your driving style as being ‘enthusiastic’ by any chance? Kind regards, Gareth.

Look further down the list and you will see a recent thread on the cost of clutches. They are expensive enough to make pursuing your vendor worthwhile.

Apparently they can't tell it doesn't have a DPF unless they pull it apart?

Hi Gareth, Thank you very much for the reply and the suggestion - so I went Friday noon to one of the two local dealerships, guys were very helpful but also facing this for the first time. They searched all databases they can access, but the VIN turned out nowhere - seems like they have access to list of cars that were either manufactured for the UK market or already being registered in UK. At the end they advised me to email Audi UK - which I did and received a quick reply that the document needed is a Certificate of Conformity (CoC) and to email VIN number and full address (seems they mail it) to: type.approval@vwg.co.uk I did that too and am now waiting for the reply - will keep you posted. Best regards, Ilia.

I had the same problem as others (‘brake servo restricted’ warning followed by a ‘stop/start not working’ message) with my 66 Reg A4 Avant TFSI which had only done 24,000 miles and was used only very occasionally during lockdown. Because the brakes still worked and the display message said I could continue driving I did so but only for a few very short journeys (and after the first time the ‘thud’ of the ABS kicked in I then made sure I applied the brakes even more gently) and intended to get it booked into an independent Audi garage (cheaper than main dealer) when convenient. However, after reading in the forum about the ABS issue (which clearly added urgency) and Simon Ryder’s report on how to change the pressure sensor I decided to give it a go without any further delay. My A4’s pressure sensor 5Q0906207(A) can be bought online for about £50 but as my Audi wasn’t on the website’s list of models that the part fitted(!) I decided not to take a chance and instead bought it direct from a main Audi dealer for £75 incl. VAT (as this meant a 40 mile round trip I paid £4.99 + VAT for it to be posted to me although the postage only cost the dealer 65p). I’m no mechanic but it was really easy to change, took less than 5 minutes, and everything is back to normal. I’m just so relieved that I was able to sort it for £75 plus postage AND before the ABS became an issue, so two fingers to Audi and a big THANK YOU to Simon.

Happy to provide whatever info I can. After giving Audi multiple attempts to fix the issue (they’re only legally entitled to one attempt) I informed the dealer in writing that the car was not of acceptable quality and I was rejecting it. The Head of Business at the dealer contacted me and explained that he believed the hesitation was a “characteristic” of the Q7 and that they were unlikely to accept the rejection. He offered to come to my house and drive the car himself, as he has a Q7 and wanted to compare. After driving just a couple of miles he agreed that the hesitation was a lot worse than he was expecting and that the car was not of acceptable quality. Other people trying a rejection may not be so lucky and may have to get an independent inspection of their car. The dealer has now submitted the rejection details to the manufacturer, who also have to agree to the rejection. He had already spoken with the relevant department before driving the car and they had agreed that they would support his decision. He is therefore confident that Audi will accept the rejection. Again, others may be given more hoops to jump through at this stage. The next step is for the dealer to buy the car back at the purchase price, less “reasonable” usage. The car is still in perfect condition, so this will be based purely on the mileage I’ve driven. I’m currently waiting for their offer, so I don’t know yet what their idea of a “reasonable” pence per mile figure is. I’m expecting to have to dispute it. Once a buy back price is agreed Audi will collect the car and refund me. The whole process from start to finish should take no more than 28 days. I think I’ve been very lucky to have had an honest, understanding, well connected with the Audi group, Head of Business to deal with. I’m sure very few rejections are accepted this easily. I should note that my car was paid for outright, so I don’t know how the process works if you’re on a PCP or other finance. I suspect you would have to first contact the finance company rather than the dealer, as the finance company own the car.

There is a sticky thread here for C6 pre facelift If you search online for the brochures for each generation/facelift, so A6 C6 2009 brochure will get you the C6 facelift version. You can find the brochures with a spec for each trim. Same for the C7 (2011/2014 i think) depending on the generation/facelift you are looking at. Le Mans is pretty well specced but there are still many options to be had, like electric folding mirrors! Le Mans is just S-Line with a few more options like interior lighting package ticked. You may find a well specced SE is better as it has a softer ride to. Both C6 and C7 could be optioned with it. The C6 has a single sensor in the front grille below the plate, the C7 has what look like two turbines where the front fogs usually go.

Hi everyone Ive just retro fitted cruise control & DIS (driver information system) stalk to my 2006 B7 also did another lads from work last week. Its was fairly easy to do and for the £40 I paid for a second hand squib / levers , well worth the money! Ive put this video together on how to fit the stalks and run through the coding using a snap on scanner (in expert mode) Ive not gone into great detail explaining how I found the exact codes I needed to input but have put links to the rosstech site where the codes are explained a lot better , its fairly easy to get your head round once you have a quick read.. ive also put a link in the video description to a google drive file which again explains the procedures quite well. along as you can work out your correct codes you can follow my coding procedure but just entering the codes which suit your vehicle 🙂

Yep they should be able to provide full Audi history on an approved used audi 👍 you might need to prove you're the owner and pop into the dealer. But speak to Audi on the phone first.

Very useful 👍🙂

Hi Joshua, Yes this indeed should be covered under the approved used warranty as I have that warranty and it was covered. I’m not to sure though about the diagnostics they aren’t covered under the warranty I believe , however I wasn’t charged for this when I took my car in. But the part and fitting is certainly covered. Rgds

Thanks Steve, booked in for 2 weeks time to get exhaust done next. One on has those valves in the back boxes. So going cat back no resonators , GT100 tips(would prefer something else but only choice of 2 tips). K and N is due this week and that will be going in. Just make sure no excess oils and left to air for a few days. Never had an issue previous and just a habit I have! Cheers

Very nice indeed 👍

I'd bought the large can Halfords clear but it spat tiny bits onto the surface (I tried all the ones I'd bought and they were the same) so I returned for refund and bought a different brand which was fine... but forget what that was.

Thanks for your comments. The spray was Halfords BMW Titan/Titanium Silver. Just happened I had tha colour BMW four years ago when I decided to refurb daughters Honda alloys and used that paint as a test on one wheel as I had a can to hand. Personally I like its slightly muted look compared with some of the bright alloy finishes in cans sold as Wheel Silver.

Hello everyone - I never managed to solve my A8's battery drain problem - an issue I now understand is shared by many other owners it now appears - and reluctantly had to sell it. A great car spoiled by too much unnecessary complexity and silly electronics which make it less reliable and add weight. A missed opportunity for Audi in my opinion.

Perhaps it's not your thing to DIY but I've done a couple of sets and the results have been great. Need to get the tyres off... make good the scuffs with the least sanding possible... prep the paint... etch prime... grey undercoat... top coat... clearcoat. I heated up a small garden shed with a fan heater to aid paint drying between coats. Been a year since I did these on my Mondeo and despite giving them no extra care and occasional car wash use they still look perfect.

The A3 TDi I bought and overhauled for my daughter in June suffered similar. Didn't test drive as it was bought privately during full lockdown and was in the middle of the city so wouldn't have got it above 30mph. Bought with leeway to do work but I was shocked once up to speed on the motorway driving home to feel a dreadful vibration from 60mph. Felt more through floor than steering wheel... as if the driveshafts were bent or the gearbox was about to fall out! Worse I've known in decades of driving and not a typical wheel balance feeling. Tyres were first check and were actually due for replacement as mixture of Chinese brands and I always fit premium. Both front tyres showed a degree of out of round/tread distortion when jacked up and spun with a fixed point just touching the tread to judge the distortion amount. So I swapped front to rear as a test and 90% of the vibration went. Then fitted a new set of tyres and smooth as silk. The amount of tyre distortion seen wasn't as great as the feeling of vibration indicated and you could easily have just balanced the wheels...still had the vibration... and moved onto wheel bearings, driveshafts etc... thinking the tyres OK. I've seen this quite a bit over the decades and tyre fitters often swear blind they can balance anything out but if it ain't round it might show as balanced in free air on the machine but once back on the road still no good.. Fingers crossed a front to rear swap will prove the point for you... assuming the rears are running true!

Hi Gareth, Thanks for the reply. I'm very pleased to say I finally resolved the rattle. I managed to recreate the sound while the car was stationary and after much trial and error I realised that pressing down hard on the dash near the A pillar and windscreen totally resolved the issue. I have a temporary fix in place (pic below) but will take it in to Audi for a proper fix. All the best, Omar

Ok so I feel like a muppet! I got the idea that the yellow circle symbol with 3 dots either side was to do with low oil pressure given that when you press the check button on the dash it shows this symbol at the top of the display and below it the low oil pressure alarm, turns out its actually just the front brake pad sensor alarm! panic over! 😅

Mystery solved! I've just picked a 2019 Audi Q3 which came with a bottle of gue and a tyre inflator instead of a spare wheel and tools. If anyone is interested in getting a spare wheel and tools then the bits you need to source are the following... 5Q0-803-899 Wheel Bolt and clamp. This fits the socket shown in Brian's picture above. If you already have the subwoofer speaker in your car you will already have this. 5QF-011-031-C Jack plus 5Q0-011-221 Jack crank arm. (The crank arm is the Jack handle and it is sold separately!) 8N0-012-219 Wrench 83A-012-109-H Audi Q3 Foam tool compartment for spare wheel. 83A-601-010-A or 5QF-601-027-B Spare wheel. It is a 4J x 18H2 ET 28 wheel fitted with a 145/85 18 Tyre. (Same spare wheel for all wheel sizes) Don't forget to transfer your tools from the old foam compartment to the new one! When finished your new spare wheel and tools take up exactly the same space as before and you can still put your boot floor in the lower position.

Lol so true 😂

My suggestion would be to drive both, and see what fits you best. The C6 may have more power, but the gearbox is an older tiptronic and a bit slow. You may find that the C7 is faster with less power because of this.

Hello & Good Morning to you all... I have a 2007 Audi S-Line 2.0 TDI SE. (Saloon) The car has recently been to the garage where there was a fault ongoing issue with the glow plugs blinking. dpf light also on.. garage said that the dpf pressure pipe was knackered and i had to order a new one £45.00 genuine audi that was fitted aswell as a brand new dpf also... both parts were fitted 04/08/2020 however I was told the garage couldn't this time remove the dpf light but before could some reason this time no luck.. but advised me to go round the corner and another business/ garage said they could remove this no problem.. So anyway same day I had to drive to london and back total of 200+ miles (motorway and dual) no problem going to london absolutely swimmingly well however once I got to heathrow airport the glow plug was on just as I was on the m25 shortly to come off at term 5. along with the engine management light & dpf light also on? Car was also in limp mode. Phoned RAC however they sent out a private company on RAC behalf who looked at the car with a cheap Konnwei OBD2 reader removed the engine management light and within maybe 2 minutes from arriving to then removing codes he was gone and said nothing I can do for you it is an audi garage matter 'cya' .... Great nice one cheers... So I had to limp mode all the way home from Heathrow Airport to Suffolk!. . . Any idea's ????? is it a Sensory problem or more to it like Forced Regen or other...?? Codes that popped up on my obd2 when I got home 1) P0299 - Turbocharger / Supercharger Underboost 2) P2002 - Diesel Particulate Filter Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1 I am no mechanic so if you can help or guide me through I would be most grateful!... I am currently off work sick so not a great deal of income either...... :-(

Hi does anyone know why mine does not display anything at all? It’s just completely blank the little screen

Hi all! ☺️ Newbie here. This is my 1993 B4 2.0e Avant that I bought for a budget rally. The rally was from Edinburgh to Rome via Swiss Alps and was probably my favourite thing I've ever done. Now I daily the car and while it has a whole heap of weird noises and problems, I love it.

Hello all! Here is my new baby, my Audi TT MK2 2014 S-Line. Just got her last week and I am keen to upgrade some parts, cosmetic and mechanical, on her with the help of my father who's currently restoring an '86 Porsche 911 🙂

Hi Guys, here's mine, just back from getting tints and dechromed 😍

Imho gotta be the 3.0 tdi s-line Quattro mate, had mine just over 2 years now and it hasn’t missed a beat! Which has meant I’ve been able to get it looking like this 🤩