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me either none of this came up at Alcoholics Anonymous meeting :)

With the Dynamic Rear indicators or front indicators you'll need the modules which attach to the light units, they are not cheap and you need to make sure your LED rear lights are capable to have Dynamic lights activated. There's a company that deals with them www.adcanced-incar.co.uk they sell a lot of retrofit parts for European cars.

Wife is happy bunny for 5mins, might get a cup of tea tonight 😁

That's good then, it's always good to combine the work to save trips to the dealer! :)

Hi all, Link to Watchdog website, there is a quick form and a place to input your information it takes about 10 mins to do. May be worth linking to this thread (copy and paste link) https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b006mg74/contact

No computer in the car can detect every fault. If you have a knock you need to get it examined because it could be caused by innumerable problems: worn track rod ends, worn CV joints, worn steering joints, worn suspension mounts, loose steering rack, worn wheel bearings. The list is nearly endless.

Rob , thank you for this very comprehensive list . I think timings are pretty much spot on, unless anyone else can see anything that could hinder this. I will see you at Rowhams at 07:00. Cheers all.

What do you think guys?

Most people who have a remap carried out would recommend one but I can't say I've personally done it. Obviously bhp and torque are increased but not always mpg. In theory it should as the new map should smoothen out the torque curve etc. Also the remap could be better improved if you combine it with uprated induction kits or exhausts. It's also key that the car is in good health before you carry out a remap as you will be putting more strain on the engine and potentially the gearbox if it's an auto. If you do have it done and you get called for the emissions recall then do r have the recall done as Audi will wipe your upgraded map. This also goes for software updates which Audi will often do if required when your car goes in for a service or other work. The reason why I've not had a remap is: 1. My a6 is on 328k 2. Despite the fact I could go from 150bhp to 180bhp with a remap the fuel pump my a6 has probably wouldn't be able to cope whereas later a6 models (2004-2005 c5) had a uprated fuel pump as standard. Hope I've helped :) Cheers Steve

Problem is hardware - bt module does not support a2dp

I have the same question so I'll be watching this... I've had a quote from "Celtic Tuning". A 30% increase in both HP and torque seems too good to be true with no uprated components for £295 all in (and they come to you!). 170BHP --> 227BHP 359Nm --> 421Nm https://www.celtictuning.co.uk/component/ctvc/audi/a4-b8-2008-2014/diesel/2-0-tdi-cr-170-bhp-2008-2014-ECU-remap-chiptuning/stage-1?year=2012#t3-content

Good luck :)

For ami get tune2air for bluetooth streaming

It should be an easy job for a good car electician to connect the d3 seats .

Ordered yesterday after seller confirmed that it would fit. I'll update on the service and component when I get it.

You could replace just dr8ver seat from se if it will help

Se and sline have diffrent seats I have 2006 a6 3.0tdi sline lemans with sline seats. Love them . I have sat in se and yes they are more soft but sline are half bucket seats and they wrap around you nicley , yes they are harder to seat on. Also driver seat has electric lumbar support. So its all about personal preference ... If you are not far away you can try mine :) Also you need to think about ride hight and suspention. Se has standard soft and sline is lovered by 30mm and much harder.

The add ia not a lemans. Badge is an add on by the owen and its in the wrong place... but this is an sline

I can’t recommend Blackvue enough. The 2 channel DR650GW hard wired, they are similar in size and shape to the thinkware. www.blackvue.co.uk

I have a Q5 with front and back cameras made by Blackvue, cost me around £300 plus wired in locally by a guy in Cranleigh, very good job no wires visible .

Welcome to the forum Paul, you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch :) Truthfully I've not seen any issues with the vag keyless system it seems to be Ford that is affected. For my keyless Ford I have a Faraday pouch which I bought off eBay for 79p and it came from China and it works a treat. A metal.tin does the job just as well. Usually theives will break.ibto your home so in order to steal your keys. (Keyless Fords excluded). With any form of steering locks they will slow down the thief and will make more noise. This therefore acts more of a deterrent, ideally meaning the thief will target a more venerable car. Hope I've helped :) Cheers Steve

I’ve owned a 3.0tdi for 8 years. Injectors replaced with a set of AB revision, mine were original and smoked after idle, and leaked diesel into the oil. The oil level rises inexplicably. Only other fault was the fuel sender. That’s it. Bought some second hand injectors from a well known auction site for 600 and fitted them myself.

does this help m8

AutoExpress do tyre comparison tests from time to time. Check out the results. Very interesting...http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/92873/all-season-tyre-test-20172018-results-by-category

Thanks Gareth, I'll bear that in mind.

Take out a policy in Poland on a temporary basis, as we are both (still) part of the EU you may use this to bring it here, register it and get UK based insurance or trailer it over or use one of the many transport companies that operate between the two countries?.

Welcome to the forum, I don't know why but for a second I struggled to think what kind of equipment carrots were for horses...

the sticker looks like this

Welcome to the forum David, you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch :) You are looking at a very good a6 Avant model :) you'll find the pre 2008 models have less power and lower emissions due to the fitment of a DPF filter which was first introduced in 2007 for the 2008 model year. Cheers Steve :)

They state 19" in the link page 16, just Sline were 18" https://www.audi.co.uk/content/dam/audi/production/PDF/UsedCars/Refresh/A6/A6 - November 09.pdf

I haven't been on the forum for a while lol and just seen this, Awesome! :D

Oil loss, coolant loss - that sounds like a head gasket to me. Do a quick check (if safe to do so) with the engine idling but not hot take the cap off the coolant bottle 1. check for bubbles 2. have a sniff. Also with engine switched off remove oil filler cap and check for white sludge on the cap and around the neck.

here you go m8 skip 2 mins of the video its just chat https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3ECKiZlTqQ

Hello all, Got a 2011 A7 last week, everything appears in good working order with a couple of small issues that need attention. One of those was a "loose" back panel of the passenger seats. Today I decided to sort it out, and as the info floating around the net is either vague or incomplete I decided to snap a few photos and document everything and contribute to community. Panel was a bit loose on the bottom and cracked open on left side so I wanted to remove it to inspect what the problem is and fix it. Looking around I found bits of info, mostly saying that it is difficult to remove without damaging it. I carefully peeked inside through the open end as even though the metal clips that are supposed to hold the top part were not engaged but it was still impossible to pull away from the seat. Finally I figured out that two plastic parts disappearing into the seat must be hooks and managed to disengage them by pulling the panel downwards. Here is the view of the internals of the removed panel: The two plastic black clips on the bottom are known to break, but in this case they were not even engaged, one was completely separated from the panel and the other one partially separated. Luckily both were not broken: Now on to the top part. It was obvious that someone has been in here already and then messed up the reinstall as the metal clips have been bent downwards and did not engage in the appropriate spots. On top of these, there are two plastic hooks that also hold the panel in place, but not snugly agains the seat back. I suspect that the purpose of these hooks is to prevent the panel getting too far back when you pull it back to remove, which would probably break the lower clips Here you can see the bent metal clips and the plastic hooks: Another view: Somewhere I read and advice that trying to disengage the metal clips by pulling back will most likely result in the breakage of the plastic or the panel, and it was suggested to nudge to panel to the right to disengage the clips on the panel side. Looking at the assembly above this will not work, as each clip can only be slid out in opposite direction, and compressed at the same time for this to happen. Luckily (?) I was spared of the actual removal of the metal clips, but from what I have observed if one needs to do it, they will either pop out, or more likely the complete plastic support will separate from the panel. ABS plastic is known not to collaborate too well with most adhesives, including what appears to be a epoxy resin here. Over time it becomes brittle and will easily crack and give up as you can see on the photo below. In any case, it is enough to glue it back in just as I had to do with the lower plastic clips. After it hardens up I just need to straighten up the metal clips and hopefully everything will snap back in place tomorrow. Will keep you posted. Hope someone will find this useful. :)

Hello folks, Thanks for the good attempts. Lonsdale belt, which was presented by the 5th Earl of Lonsdale - Hugh Lowther - in 1909. He had been elected the first president of the AA in 1905. It seems he had a penchant for the colour yellow, and in fact was know as the Yellow earl. His carriages etc. were always painted in yellow - one surviving example in the National Trust Arlington carriage museum in N. Devon. No, they don't know he was the yellow earl or of his AA connections either! So, the Yellow Earl was the first president of the AA and the AA's livery is yellow. Bit of a coincidence? or choice? Try asking any AA patrol this question. Good odds they won't know, but you do. Kind regards, Gareth.

MAGIC Trevor. Spot on. The initial president of the AA back in 1905?? (or there abouts) was a keen sportsman, and attempted to "tidy up" boxing from its previous bare knuckle affair. He dedicated a still-contested boxing belt to this sport. Now parts 2 of question:- What is the name of the belt? What is the connection with the AA's livery yellow colour and this first president? By what I understand the choice of yellow had nothing to do with standing out/visibility as we now associate the colour being good for. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Trevor, I have been trying to send the email I received from Stanford house but have been making a hash of it I will ask my friend to do it for me hopefully later today! Thank you for your patience.

Hi, I have not been around much due to illness,but there is a Sunday Classic Car meet on a Sunday at Stanford house in Brighton (Yes it has a bar and restaurant and those displaying early arrivals even get a bacon buggy plus tea coffee if my info is right) I will post any information wanted if anyone is interested! I

Not audi related but please share, help and support :) We can make a diffrence !!! https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/formula1

Hello Jay, Peter Best? - believe they may only have a sub 20 year concession for MGs. Could also try:- Lancaster, Haggerty, Carole Nash, Heritage, Gotte & Wynne, RH; etc. Also, any insurers linked to this forum? Some 'everyday' car insurers will also consider doing an additional 'classic' vehicle as an add on you your policy, particular if you have owner-driver (just policy holder covered) on the basis that you can only drive one car at a time! Only other suggestion is to try the performance VW websites and forums and magazines, since some of these cars may come under the sub 20year old category. Good luck with it, and thanks for being able to update this forum - always useful. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jay, I sympathise with your plight of not being able to insure a 15 year old occasional-use car under a classic cover. I too have found that most of the volume classic car brokers will not insure vehicles under 20 years old, and it seems they can be selective on what they will cover at 20 anyway! My long standing broker recently refused to insure a 15 year old MG TF for me, but I did find Peter Best would insure it as part of a deal with the MG clubs. As you are aware, classic policies do not require, or earn a NCB, and I can only suggest you try all the brokers you can think of to see if any might do you a limited mileage agreed value policy on the car. Adrian Flux comes to mind as worth a try. There will be others. Re. your previously earned NCB, again you are no doubt aware that if this is not used against a policy for two years then it elapses. Insurers used to give so called introductory discounts for such cases, and say for ex company car drivers, but not so any longer I believe. Your car may just come under the heading of a Modern Classic, and there is a magazine published with that title. Could be worth getting a copy and checking with the insurance companies who advertise with them. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello mate, If I was you I’d get browsing for a RNS-E unit and all the Bose surround speakers. Really nice clean sound, works really well with the acoustics of the car, obviously if you want some rude boy bass then probably up go for smaller diameter sub. However personally I’d rather have a clear boot space without a box taking up space, plus you’re not always checked it to see if you’ve managed to loosen the cable or jump starting your car when you’ve forgot to switch off the sub.

Wow, now that is smart! :) A thread with advice for other members would be awesome. It's the best way we all learn :) Cheers Steve

Hopefully not but then knowing my luck the boat will go via Australia

Now the Automobile Association started out as a type of club if I'm correct. And at the time 20s-30s they did road rallies to test a cars endurance and reliability. The RAC did this too. I do hope I'm correct :) Abit random but here's a pic of me with an old AA box in Norfolk :)

Hello folks, One correct and some tantalisingly close answers. Boot:- Back to the pioneering days of motoring where additional boots may have been necessary to deal with adverse conditions along the journey. Stored in a box, and this box became known as the Boot. Never been substantiated that I know of but...... So full marks Steve. Go Faster Stripes:- Yes, it was to do with colour, and yes, it was connected with racing, and the good clue was how cars were constructed then and now. Up to I would say the early 1920s, the chassis (frame for the younger element!!) was visible and the body work was built up on this (most cars continued this method of construction until the late 1940s). Cars used for racing generally had lightweight non streamlined bodies and the chassis was painted in the manufacturer's chosen colour, and of course the chassis and its colour was visible. As bodies became more streamlined, they covered the chassis, so the racing (chassis) colour had to be replicated along the length of the body to identify the manufacturer from a distance. So there you had it - the birth of the "go faster" stripes. Now that will earn you a pint from anyone who drives a current car with these stripes! Beer barrel and traffic control:- The clue was in the shape of the barrel - round - add about and you've got the answer. Many towns and villages claim to be the first to use a barrel at a crossroads to better control vehicles turning in varying directions. Generally reputed to have been used where there was an inn at the crossroads, and a barrel was put to good use where there was a high number of accidents at this crossroad. Again never substantiated, but the village next to where I was born claimed to be the first to use a barrel for this purpose, but I've heard quite a few others making similar claim! Will probably pose another question next week if you think it will provide some exchange between members. There's a pint for you Steve if you are ever passing through - and a half for Paul and Trevor. Kind regards, Gareth.

Here are pics of Eddy's a3, he is a fellow member and lives in the Nertherlands.

This is shocking

Nearly 50% of all cars that fail an MOT do so because of small faults that could be avoided by simple, at-home car maintenance. These problems are easy to correct, and fixing them before taking the car in for its MOT could help you pass first time and avoid garage costs. To help, Ring, the automotive specialist in bulbs, wipers, battery care and tyre care, has some advice on the simple things that can be done to avoid an MOT fail. Lights and signalling – 17.8% failure rate 4.5m cars fail because of lamps, reflectors and electrics every year. Doing a quick bulb check before you take the vehicle to the garage could avoid an MOT fail. Make sure you check all the exterior bulbs – this includes the side light, indicator, tail light and number plate lights. The registration plate lamp being out accounts for 4.5% of MOT fails. When it comes to headlamps, there are plenty of options out there, including upgrades to help bulbs last longer or put more light on road for safer driving. We recommend you always replace bulbs in pairs, to ensure the light output is equal from both headlights. Ring stocks a range of bulbs, including long life versions, and for headlamps, try the new Xenon150 bulbs (nationwide – SSP £39.99), which put up to 150% more light on road without compromising on life. Tyre condition – 7.5% failure rate Well maintained tyres are essential to ensure safe driving – and neglecting them could mean a failed MOT. The legal requirement for tyre tread on passenger vehicles up to eight seats is 1.6mm, but studies show that when the tread drops below 3mm, stopping distance begins to be significantly affected. Checking tyre tread is easy and requires a simple depth gauge. However, to ensure your tyres are both safe and helping cut down fuel consumption, drivers need to check the pressure as well. For a digital gauge that gives accurate readings on a large backlit screen, records the correct pressure and has an integrated LED light, Ring suggests the RTG7 Programmable Digital Tyre Pressure & Tread Depth Gauge. This is easy to store in the car and easy to use, wherever you are. Available nationwide, SSP £24.99. While there is no legal requirement for tyre pressure, under- or over-inflated tyres will reduce the traction between the tyre and the road, making driving less safe and less fuel efficient. For easy pressure top ups, try the Ring RAC635 Digital Tyre Inflator, with preset for accurate inflation. This industry-recognised inflator can inflate a 13” tyre from flat to 35PSI in under 3 minutes – making tops up quick and simple. Driver’s view of the road – 6.8% failure rate Cracks in the windscreen and worn wipers are a big reason for vehicles to fail. As wiper deteriorate gradually, drivers often don’t realise they are no longer clearing the windscreen effectively. Choosing and fitting the right blade can seem tricky, but Ring’s new range of Ultravision Wiper Blades (SSP £9.99 to £13.99) make blade selection easy. The unique, patent-pending clip fits 95% of the car parc, meaning that drivers just need to know the blade length for their vehicle to select the correct blade. The clip adapts to fit the seven most common wiper arms. Henry Bisson, Marketing Manager at Ring, says “Motorists could be making savings by carrying out basic checks and maintenance at home, but often they don’t realise that these minor faults could cause an MOT fail. What’s more, having well-maintained tyre, blade and lighting are driving safety essentials, so making sure they are regularly checked and replaced when necessary is critical.” For more details on Ring’s range of bulbs, wiper blades and tyre care, visit www.ringautomotive.com

I have maps avaiable to downloand and burn for mmi2g high 2018 . Contact me Due to the non offical source of the maps it would be unwise to post a link here unless admin agree :) @Trevor @Steve Q