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  1. New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.
    3 points
  2. I remembered I had Autodata on an old tablet, looked it up and was the wrong diagram I was using !!! and the belt went strait off the generator strait to the first pulley, not to the power steering and air con first like I was trying to do lol Thanks for everyone's replys
    2 points
  3. Thanks to those who read or replied to my fuel flap query; there was a duff sensor which has now been replaced.
    2 points
  4. Hi Everyone, I am new to Audi, I have just purchased an A6 40 TDI Avus Saloon (July 2020). It is the base model but with many extras. I have attached a photo Bob
    2 points
  5. For information replacing the parking brake switch worked and cleared all of the faults. Quite an easy job if you're handy with a screw driver and saved a fortune going to a main dealer.
    2 points
  6. Hi kh904 , i found something but not sure if this applies to my model , it says its behind the air intake pipe , so i will have a look if that's the case and will update Many thanks
    2 points
  7. Hi James, my idea of a service is oil and filter, air filter, pollen filter, fuel filter, plugs, if this is done once a year you won't go far wrong for the following reasons, plugs tend to degrade over short milage, air and fuel filters suffer the same, if you don't use anything other than premium fuel they may last longer but we have all of a sudden come from 6k or yearly service to 18k or every three years, this is all to make the car appear super cheap to run, then we have service plans which don't cover fuel filters and air filters, they might change the oil filter with the oil if you are lucky, main dealers are thieving scum, find a good independent and tell them what you want done, there are loads of posts on this forum from people who have dealership service history who have decided to have a go at changing their own air filter [simple] and found more dead leaves in the housing than are in your local park, over the years I have had more than enough arguments with main dealers over shoddy servicing, thats why I do my own at least I know its right. Steve.
    2 points
  8. HI ALL, Picked up a nice S1 on Monday and have a few question I wonder if anyone can help with. (added some pics) Has the power mirrors, cup holders in rear seat? (not seen that before) and it seems a few upgrades like heated seats, parking sensors and Bose stereo The car doesn't have front fogs. Would the wires be there and I just have to put them in and enable by OBD? also get the new light control unit to pick front and rear fogs? I got a OBD11 this week, I read i can enabled dip the mirrors on back up. Anyone done? Would also like to open the hidden menu on the mmi, that can be done as well? green/red menus? I read i can update my MMI just by sd cards and a download, but i looked for a few hours and cant find a list to confirm i can update mine. The version is HN+_EU_AU210_K0900 I was told this is chain system/belt, so as long as oil changed every 8k, this should never need to be changed. True? would anyone say to just get done ? (car has done 90k) with loads of parts and oil servicing to back it up.
    1 point
  9. Hi looking at this its definitely pointing to the Battery Energy Monitor sending the wrong signals to the control module have you acquired the new correct module yet as this would be the sum total of your problems if not, I have found one thing with electrical components to do with engine management the part numbers have to be identical apart from sensors I.E. Oxygen where if at the end of the number it might have A,E,B,D that is the build year designation or supersession numbers, now we come to electrical sensors which are numbered according to their software operational strategies, to simplify its like a demanding wife and will only accept what it wants, its the way the software is written unfortunately, so it won't have anther version. Steve.
    1 point
  10. Hi no apology necessary its refreshing to have somebody do their homework and be committed enough to supply that information, with regard to the management module I can't see replacing the battery would make a difference as the module will only regulate the voltage according to the command protocol from the ECU via a body control module this in turn can confuse the ECU which will go into a default protocol to try and preserve the continuity of charging this means it will undercharge drastically to preserve the system, it does the same thing if the smart charge wiring goes down, it all comes down to the original programming of the ECU thats what runs the whole show it has perameter bands programmed in to deal with just about every sensor on the car, especially engine management for example MAF/MAP sensors which when failing normally throw up implausible signal codes which means that whatever it gets is outside its operating band strategy, thats why on later cars any modifications to the vehicle electronically throw a light unless the item is run through a Canbus system, Absorbent Glass Mat, which sounds like an incontinence aid, has only one real advantage it charges faster and if you look at the dynamics of your current set up even if your energy module is not quite the right one the system as is will accept this as it has a certain flexibility therefore if you start introducing more new variables there is more room for error, can't understand the scarcity of parts where you are but I do realise the North American market is very different, one of my Fords had a diesel fired cabin pre heat and a plug on the engine block with I later found out was for plugging in to a station that stopped it from freezing while you went shopping the antifreeze was a bit special as it was like syrup, apparently it was destined for North America but the build was cancelled so it ended up at a dealers in Hertfordshire then I bought it they never mentioned any of the above, the only way I found out was through a friend at Ford finance who chased its murky past. Steve.
    1 point
  11. Hi I can't see that buying an AGM battery will be any advantage to you in view of the cars age and assuming it is not equipped with stop start, the charging parameters are lower for the lead acid unit except when the temperature drops, then you have a problem as your existing set up generator may well rise to 15v, that will toast a very expensive AGM battery where as lead acid is far more capable of absorbing overcharge and still being serviceable, AGM will charge up to six times faster than a lead acid unit but won't tolerate overcharge, there lies the problem the charging systems on your car and newer are about the same but the BEM systems are different as the built for AGM system is highly sensitive and won't allow overcharge, I have also seen on this forum where one of the members bought an AGM to replace his old battery and caused himself all sorts of problems with weird faults, this is because you can't code an AGM unit to the older BEM so it can't work out why it can throw the worlds supply of voltage at the battery virtually unrestricted, this is because AGM has a much lower resistance to charge which is why it charges faster, in essence your $ will be much better invested in a top quality lead acid unit. Steve.
    1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. You might be looking £650 ish. That's what I paid for my a6
    1 point
  14. Hi I have come across this many times with different vehicles, Ford for example can be read with just about any generic software for codes with varying degrees of success until you go into them and start trying to alter protocols for various functions then the ECU goes into protection mode an shuts down the Can Gateway and enables the immobiliser to protect the car because it thinks its being [jarked] stolen, with the manufacturer specific software it recognises the entry elements for the Can Gateway and won't mind you fiddling with it, excellent intuition unplugging the MAF because when it was rebooted it gave it something else to worry about, your system is very good but for reading codes on different vehicles, my garage I use has about three different Snap-On units but if he ever needs to readapt anything that is a bit exotic on a Ford he uses Forscan. Steve.
    1 point
  15. Yea air suspension can be changed for coils etc. Even some aftermarket kits are available.
    1 point
  16. Hi I had the the same issue with mine A6 intermittently on my rear door too , also got a central locking fault malfunction come up on the dash sometimes , I did some digging on the US forums and found it was a known issue with some A6's . Mine would also show it was locked but when checking the rear door intermittently I would find it would be unlocked , Any way it went into the dealers 3 times before they changed the rear door lock ,
    1 point
  17. I'd recommend disconnecting it and give it an inspection. Water may have got into it causing it to short.
    1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. a quick update on my wet floor,the water is getting in through the rear lights ive discovered.i know this is a common fault with coupes,my son sprayed rain water on the back window and down towards the lights and it was flowing in fairly quick.so ill get sealant tomorrow and hopefully that will sort it.
    1 point
  20. I wish it would Gareth. Unfortunately, it's too low down once raised. Our A4 B8 used to do that.
    1 point
  21. welcome to the forum,nice car,i like the wheels
    1 point
  22. Hi about the best two are YARA from Halfords or Redex, cheaper at Tool station, the Yara is the best and Halfords are doing a deal at the moment three 3.5 litre pouches for £18.99. Steve.
    1 point
  23. Ok, I spoke with Audi's engineer and what he said was crazy but it worked. He said that the 'efficiency' setting does not work with my driving pattern and that I should switch it to 'Auto'. I did this and i'm now getting those high mpg again. It works so I am happy but it's a bit misleading. People who don't know this and are thinking they are doing the best thing by using 'efficiency' mode are losing 10mpg, on a 60ltr tank is 150miles less.
    1 point
  24. As I tell anyone who buys an old Audi. Regardless of how cheap the car becomes the bills always remain expensive.
    1 point
  25. You didn't specify what product from the link you thought would be the solution to your problem. Also - lighten up, why don't you?🙄
    1 point
  26. O.K. Thanks Steve, I'll do that tomorrow and update the post accordingly.
    1 point
  27. THAT BLUMMMING AUDI TRADITION IN GERMANY ARE NOT HELPFULL THE STOCK THE PARTS I NEED BUT WILL THE FECCC HELP AV GOT TO BE A COMPANY WHATS POINT TELLING FOLK TO TRY THE COMPANY WHEN NO BLUMMMING HELP WHAT SO EVER FUUUMMMMING WHAT THE POINT PART NUMBERS audi 200 quattro avant 445853379a AND audi 200 quattro avant 443853582a THEY NOT DEAL WITH AUDI UK AV HAD TO GOT ASK AUDI IN IRELAND SHES GOING TO TRY THEY GOT THEM IN STOCK TO REMIND ME NOT TO HELP AUDI TRADITION UUUUU SSSS LEEEEESSS BASKETS RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
    1 point
  28. Apparently it is part of a Cobra 2110 Tracking system and not part of the original Audi build, so does not matter where it goes.
    1 point
  29. Hi all the car is done. I just changed the arm and the car recalibrated itself and all is well. the airbag was a fiddle at the base as its on an angle and the circle edge that proceeds through the lower trailing arm isn’t as proud as the original but the locator plastic nipple and the two plastic edge clips which hold it in place was ok. im happy it’s done. I did the offside rear arm as well as it was mega stiff . It is lubed up moves freely. pill check the fronts tmrw. thanks all for helpful advice, dan
    1 point
  30. Glad you got sorted 🙂 insurance is a ripoff
    1 point
  31. It depends if the car is set up on long life servicing or not. Audi would be able to tell you. And inform you of all the work it's had in its life by Audi. Filter change may depend on engine but I think it's roughly 5 years or 50k. Whichever comes first
    1 point
  32. Try this web site, enter you vin number and you can view drawings and schematics, will also bring up all part numbers. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/
    1 point
  33. Hello Nathan, An honest opinion would agree with your first few words. To ignore inspections of braking systems to a point where pads wear below 3mm is asking for trouble. Having said all that, the fortunate outcome is that only your wallet and shoe leather has been damaged on this occasion. When did you look at the front ones last Nathan? Apologies for being direct. Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  34. It doesn't matter if you believe it or not, unfortunately. It's a fact 🙂
    1 point
  35. its an interesting debate folks,i personally hate the start/stop system and when i use our a6 i turn it off the minute i get into the car!
    1 point
  36. Just thought I'd post a quick update on this. What are we, 6 months later roughly? Racked up around 4000 miles since the repair. New plug is right where I left it, no leaks. Guess that's about as good as you could ask for.
    1 point
  37. seatbelt adjuster is what id call it.
    1 point
  38. Hi keep it as is and work it up to near concours condition and just enjoy it and the memories, if you start heavy modification it along with your memories will turn a bit Frankenstein. STEVE.
    1 point
  39. Haven't been on for abit due to work and other things so started on the valves clean and cutting back in new stems are on putting the keepers are a pain to put back on got 12 days off so should put a good dent in it and if all goes to plan engine should go back in
    1 point
  40. Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 lovely looking A5 👍
    1 point
  41. No longer available, gone to a good home.
    1 point
  42. I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. Alternatively get an Audi specialist or auto electrican to take a look
    1 point
  43. I WANT DIE IN MY SLEEP LIKE MY GRANDAD AND NOT SCREEMING LIKE THE PASSANGERS ON HIS BUS
    1 point
  44. Ok, just an update for those who may have a similar problem.... I removed the rear light cluster and thought that I could open up the unit, but unfortunately not. It's a sealed unit, so you can't easily replace the leds, so I purchased a replacement cluster and so far the problem is fixed. It seems that enough moisture go into the clutter to cause the fail. It does seem that it's bad product design from Audi, especially the water channels where the tailgate/boot meets the taillight cluster. The rubber & plastic trim isn't water tight and water can get through!
    1 point
  45. Hello Chris, Still under warranty I guess -? If so, I would not be bothering to enquire whether anyone else has had a similar issue, but simply booking it into Audi to get the problem resolved. Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  46. Could be valve guide seals weeping a bit overnight. Try lifting your foot off the accelerator letting the wheels drive the car on over run, then accelerate fairly briskly if they is blue smoke it could be the valve guides.
    1 point
  47. They’re just the standard silver ones for some rs5’s
    1 point
  48. Hi, I've just had a gear linkage kit replaced as I couldn't get the car in reverse (2008 A3). Just noticed yesterday when I put the car in reverse there's no beep sound and the rear sensors no longer work. Could this be connected? Updated: According to the mechanic, "a wire had come off the sensor near to the gear linkage." I checked everything for myself before leaving the garage. Reverse sensors and reverse lights now work.
    1 point
  49. This is my much liked 80 Cabriolet. It a 2.6 version with only 80 miles on the clock.
    1 point
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