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I daresay if anybody had an idea he would have spoken up by now Stuart. Bear in mind there are precious few of us in this forum so it is no surprise there are no replies. See the recent history of the forum for proof. Personally I distrust any of the code reader results so I didn't even look at yours. If the problem can not be solved with a new fob battery my suggestion is to get a meter and start testing the relevant circuits.

Will do when get some good shots

Hi Gareth, thanks. Me too, it did cause me a bit of a headache initially but with a bit of research and various testing I got there in the end, thankfully at not too much expense. It's always good to try and help someone out if they're having the same problems so hopefully some people will benefit from this post. I don't see the point in saving just a few pounds if you can get genuine parts at affordable prices. They're generally better quality and with the likes of sensors which work on very small tolerances it's a must. Cheers James

Thanks Trevor. I did take a rush of “brown stuff” to the brain back in May 2018. Traded in a A5 coup for a new 4 series Gran Coupe. I was constantly comparing and rapidly got shot of the thing for another A5 coupe.

UPDATE. Just a bit of info. These sensors seem to be a common problem, if your getting this same fault code then I'd look at these first. I'm sure it was just the one sensor that was faulty but I replaced both just to save any hassle in future. (Not saying this is going to be the cause on all occasions but it's certainly the cheaper option) I got both genuine VWAG sensors for £65 on Ebay 🙂 compared with Audi wanted £72 each. Also managed to get the adaption done in VCDS by going in to Engine then Basic Settings and there's a drop down menu in there. Hope this helps anyone with same problem.

Hi Trevor, Yeah i'm normally a grey car kinda guy so keeping it clean will be a challenge haha

As Magnet has mentioned, I wonder if the fuel level sensor and/or the computerised readout is compromised and out of calibration and therefore the fuel 'used' is not entirely accurate?

Hi Rob....welcome to the Club Long term Audi addict then....you know there's no cure 🙂 Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

Best way would be to take it to a garage for them to use an impact gun on it to loosen it and then just nip it back up for you to remove later on

Hi Trevor Thanks for the reply, I have put a deposit down to see this weekend so will let you know how it goes.

Hello Stuart, Sorry, as Cliff said, there doesn’t seem to be regular contributors who are into diagnostics to the same extent that you are. Having said that, some knowledgeable diagnostic folks do contribute from time to time when they visit the forum, but I well understand you need answers when you need them. Although I certainly respect the need for diagnostics, and well appreciate the benefits to be gained from such experience, another viewpoint is one of the old ‘cause and effect’. As I understand it, component x can be shown up as the culprit since it receives its ‘signal ‘ from y, yet the root cause is actually at y - not x. Of course, this doesn’t help you one bit, but all all I can do is apologise for the lack and response and hope someone might come along shortly. Meanwhile, kind regards, Gareth.

Hi everyone. Has anyone on here seen the "exceptional" 1992 100 C4 currently for sale on ebay? Looks nice. Item no: 202793084321 Bidding ends Monday 14 October 2019 22.31 BST

Hi Cliff, Thanks very much for providing your opinion too. It was checked out by an Audi specialist who did confirm that it was the Dual-Mass flywheel. They've changed the whole clutch kit (for £750 including VAT and labour), and said to me afterwards that it was badly damaged inside, and I could have easily damaged the gearbox if I'd driven much further. Interesting - as apart from the shaking, there wasn't too nasty a noise from the engine like those I've seen on youtube videos where the DMF was failing badly. Sadly, there is still a small, regular vibration (like a much reduced version of the initial problem) while idling. The garage assure me that it's ok, and that they suspect that it will diminish over time, and may be a result of some damage done while the DMF was failing... But also mentioned injectors as a possible cause... They've sent me away for now to keep an eye on it. Will keep this updated with any further developments, but thanks again for the contributions gents. Glen

Hi Gareth, Thanks very much for the response: I'm really glad to hear you think it's a bit early for DMF/Clutch issues, but hope that doesn't mean it's something much harder to solve! I bought the car at the end of August from a private seller (through gumtree). I realise the risk involved there, but I met with the guy at his home on a few occasions: he was selling because he had a new baby (I saw the pregnant wife on one visit and the newborn on another!) and he needed something bigger for his family of 5. His whole story checked out, he has a full service history from a local Audi specialist, it appeared to be immaculate and he seemed genuinely sorry to be saying bye to the car. If he was scamming me then he's very thorough!!! He had it MOTd the day I took it off him, and looking through the MOT history everything looked fine -really consistent 8000 miles or so per year, only one or two times with fails and passes the following day etc. etc. It felt like it was running like a dream for the 6 weeks or so I've had it, but I do at least 80 miles a day on my commute, so I've put nearly 2000 miles on in that time... I'm not sure if it was doing only stop/start city runs or not for it's recent past, but we are living in Edinburgh so it's possible that city driving has been the recent history. I've booked in with another Audi/Volkswagen specialist tomorow morning, so I'm hoping they can diagnose the issue in person. I've driven it to work the last two days (another 150 miles...) and it appears to not be worsening for the moment. In fact the vibration while idling seems slightly less, but steady. There's the slightest falter when starting (and yesterday it took 3 attempts to start on one occasion after refuelling, but that just happened that one time). While driving the vibration/shaking isn't pereptible, unless in 6th gear at slower speeds and very low rpms (when I should have downshifted anyway...). I understand this is not enough to go on without seeing the car, I just thought it was worth posting in case someone might say "I had exactly that issue and here's the solution". If I get the answer I'll post it here in the hope of helping someone else in the future. Cheers, Glen

Thanks for the post Envy. It's a really interesting topic. Electric cars are brilliant, they are great to drive. The E-tron is fantastic and for you miles profile it would be perfect. Apart from the range and Audi not giving you enough information, pre purchase the other main issue if the public charing points. I charge at home with a 7kw charging point, its takes 8-10hrs to fully charge. The key issue is the public charging points, the only public points that are of any value are the 'superchargers' that charge within 45-50 mins. When you first look at a map of all the charging points around the UK you think you are going to be covered but most are the 7kw points that they call 'Rapid" which is the opposite of what they are. There are not enough supercharging points in the UK currently. If I had my time over again, I would have looked at things differently which is a shame, I am sure the infrastructure will catch-up but until then I would think again. That said if your family already has a family car and you need a second car for shorter daily commutes, then electric is the perfect solution. Matt

Hi Matt - again interesting topic, many drivers of fossil fuel burning cars will read your post with interest knowing that there is a revolution coming but there is so much uncertainty regarding what will be the best next generation form of propulsion for transportation. With options for purely electric propulsion growing I for one follow it intently looking for something that will be viable going forward but unfortunately I do not believe battery only is the way forward. I only do 15k / year miles my daily commute being 70 miles but I do leisure miles including the rare 40 mile drive to visit family. My main concerns regarding EV are around range as you have already highlighted but also charge times (including waiting for public points to be available) and as we have all experienced with hand held devices - the battery falling off a cliff scenario where after a couple of years utilisation they will require charging more often than not. Lastly I do have my doubts whether the national Grid will be able to sustain a national EV only transport technology with the majority plugging into charge points overnight. I have tested an EV and have to say they have a future but I foresee a balance of EV and "other" propulsion systems where EV will be the vehicle of choice for urban utilisation and the other fuel be it bio hydrogen or flux capacitor will be the choice for distance and HGV Please continue to contribute to this forum - I understand your frustration regarding the performance of your new car - having cast an eye over one the last time I was in Audi I must say it ticks a lot of boxes if not the commuter option.

Thanks, I guess I’ll have to. Appreciate your help ..

Audi A4 - 260 BHP - 1.8T - B6 - 2002 I have for sale my beloved 260 BHP Audi A4 B6 1.8T. I have spent thousands on this car and it is a great powerful vehicle. See below on the overview and spec. Overview The car has been upgraded to a very fast 260BHP with a uprated K04-15 Turbo (hybrid), FMIC , Bosh 550 Injectors and de-cat down pipe. The car has been professionally remapped at Unicorn Motor Developments and the rolling road report is attached. Upgrades 260BHP with a uprated K04-15 Turbo (hybrid), Front Mounted InterCooler Bosh 550 Injectors De-cat straight through down pipe. Performance Air Filter Professionally remapped at Unicorn Motor Developments 19" Alloy Wheels Features Front Electric Windows Air Condition Audi Chorus Sound system with 6 CD Changer (one of the speakers are not working) 19" Alloy Wheels Multispoke wheels Condition I have just changed the water pump and the timing belt was also just done at the same time, so this is brand new. The body work is in fair condition for the age of the car. There are some minor dents and scratches of course for the age of the car. The bonnet has a medium dent which can easily be repaired at a dent repair place. The engine was fully rebuilt 26,913 miles ago as the orignal turbo failed hence i decided to fully rebuild with new uprated Turbo and compenents , so this engine only really has 26,913 many miles on it. The overall mileage of the car is 189,913. The thermostat needs to be replaced for the heating. Any inspection / Passenger Test Drive welcome. Only selling as i have bought another car now. This is a great 4 door powerhouse for a cheap price. You will probably not get 260BHP and a lot of fun for this money anywhere. £2795 or nearest offer - Call Now ! Audi A4 - 260 BHP - 1.8T - B6 - 2002

Forgot to put a result to this post. It was a faulty release valve on the passenger rear suspension strut. Bought 2 replacements from knufftech I believe for about £20 each. Replaced both rear drivers and passenger sides and car works fine again.

Hello Steve, That’s great, but my first ( incorrect) thoughts were that the wording is typically what you expect from a trade sale, and might just put some people off - who would prefer to buy direct from, hopefully the long term owner. Of course, you could turn this on it’s head, and depend on the advert attracting buyers who think it is a trade sale, and will be spending their money with all the trade sale ad-ons such as warranties, finance and part exchange facilities. Good luck with finding it an appreciative new home. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Trevor, and apologies it’s come your way. I do - to some extent- understand the limitations of the system, but surely the editing out #Removed# system is driven the logic of certain words which will have been inputted into the system on the understanding they might offend. Isn’t it just a question of adding the abbreviations as they occur? Kind regards, Gareth.

Perhaps it’s worth repeating:- ‘garage guy’ should = recommenced local diesel specialist. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello I have 2001 1.6 I have this happen now and again for years, no head gasket failure or other issues. Check out as advised but for me its just slight condensation as the engine warms and cools.

Hi, new here and not sure about your exact lights but I have restored headlights myself on my cars and usually get pretty good results, as daunting as it sounds I rubbed down my headlights with 1k grit wet and dry sandpaper till the haze was mostly gone then repeated the process with 1500 then 3000 grit (wet and dry) until all the haze and scratch marks where removed, after sanding check your lamps and make sure there are no deep gouges, then clean the lens with a rubbing alcohol (isopropanol solution) then apply clearcoat lacquer (uhv) wait ten mins then apply another coat and repeat a 3rd time, after doing this my lights where pretty good tbf,, hope this helps a little, I did both my headlights for around £15/20 which is a lot cheaper than replacing,,

😂 You are allowed to say that! The writing is putting me off as I cant think of a reason for it to be there. The rubber being removed also suggests some work has been done, and if you look close to the windscreen, the plastics are not perfectly aligned (as they have been on other cars I have seen). As it happens the guy buying my Range Rover screwed me around and despite numerous calls and texts, has failed to show this morning. The wait goes on....

Old topic but I notice no one has replied. I have just bought a 15 plate S4, again no dipstick so ordered one through Mark Brodie who runs a company called Brotek on Facebook, arrived in 3 days.

Hello Ross, I assume that you have now worked out the issue and correct m eif I am wrong. That part comes in 7 and 9 pins, for the electrical socket. I purchased a 9 pin and then on removing the actuator from the dorr found out my car needs a 7 pin - currently on the hunt. Hope you did not find it to much trouble. Regards, Brian in Australia

Dude the car is a bomb) especially turbines especially turbines it's so cool all looks very harmonious and cool . Don't know why you need glidecam it is useful thing I do not argue but it is more suitable for video recording or or when you shoot in motion. It needs more for extreme conditions like hiking extreme traveling. Can advise this article with glidecam reviews click here, but on extreme case you can always use photoshop if you need to improve photos.

Hi Gareth, Sorry, my message was a bit misleading! New battery required, so I got one and got it installed 🙂. So hopefully all sorted!! Thats young a car? Wow. Touch wood, I hope my new battery lasts longer, although I’m thinking about getting a new car soon as mine has done 125k miles and showing signs of age. Will be a sad day when it goes. Have loved this car and was my dream (realistic) car when growing up. More space needed now though so may have to look at the Qs... or an RS6 😉 I wish.... Thanks for you help guys! Will

Ask these guys about reversing cameras:- https://audi-retrofits.co.uk/ Good luck with your purchase. Hope you can drive a hard bargain, so you get all the features that you want. Is it a private sale or Dealer? Independent inspection is a must for any used car, especially when spending that much money! Do some homework on common issues, how much it might cost for those repairs, and drive the price down, down, down! This site is very handy for reviews, recalls & common faults:- http://australiancar.reviews/

Hi Stephen, Having just bought your Audi A4 2009 2.0 Known as B8, it takes a while to familiarise yourself & get to know what is fitted, what to look out for etc. In Australia, we don't have "59 Plate" - just Build Plate Month/Year & Compliance Plate. I don't want to alarm you, just inform, so here goes.... In addition to Gareth's advice:- Check if it has had Timing Chain Tensioner Revision already fitted. There are a few more things to watch out for, just like any used car on the market. If I remember correctly:- there are reported cases of the old Timing Chain Tensioners failing on some 2.0 Engine Codes. In Australia, there's a site for reference, with Detailed Reviews, Complaints, Recalls for various Makes & Models. Check with your Audi Dealer. or a respected Independent in your area. (I've seen many Audi Owners remain sceptical of what previous owners say, plus what Dealership Service people say, when asked about "any known problems") http://m.australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Audi&model=A4&gen=37&pno=0 I have 2010 A3 8P 1.8TFSI EA888 CDAA 6MT. (Similar Engine, with Timing Chain)

Thanks Gareth, the sale was through an Audi dealer (a large Yorkshire one). So I was expecting the books. I will chase them and start with the service print out. Rgds

It wasn't too bad actually - there and back. But as i'm sure you're aware... it's wasn't too sunny this time around!!

Following my last video about the car not starting , the result and solution is my Audi S3 8L fuel Pump FAILED!!!, its been changed out, 2. Im going to clean her out and take her to the carwash , but added in a nice exhaust sound clip at the end and enjoyed my drive to the carwash , finally i get to drive this car :). https://youtu.be/0dH6RSIKPKY

Do let us know the outcome.

Hello James, Just a couple of points:- In my experience, the only place to go for information about recommended tyre pressures ( if not shown inside the fuel filler flap etc.) is the vehicle handbook, checking against wheel and tyre size, and number of passengers etc. Over inflation and tyre pressure warning? Good question. Does this system alert to over inflation as well as under? If not, it should do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Part 3 - Fixed So the problem go worse to the point the car was stopping while driving. roughly 30 seconds from starting and moving away to then flash warnings and refuse to start. I limped home after 10 minutes of trying to start. Relays 614 and 395 are apparently know issues and I bought 2 new relays from a VW garage. Cost circa £20 each. They didn't seem damaged or broken but replacing them has worked well. Getting to the ECU box on the right hand side required removing the windscreen wipers and black plastic under the window but was otherwise okay. Since being replaced I've had 24hrs of okay starting and driving. if anything fails I will update here Ben

Hi Gareth. The same debate is often on various marque forums, not least the MB ones. I think sealed for life refers to a plastic plug inserted in what would be the dipstick tube. What would happen if the sump on the gearbox started to leak? ....Why do Audi sell the ATF , gaskets and filters?. The price of a fluid and filter change is listed under the price list from Audi dealers. Mercedes offer a fluid/filter change on ZF boxes as do several other makers who use exactly the same box. I think its the same with the long life service. I think this is to attract fleet buyers to keep the cost of servicing down. I will keep an open mind. Thank you again.

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Hello and welcome to you from another newbie.