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From all the admin team Just want to wish all our members a happy Easter 🐰🐣 hope you have a great day 😊

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi All just thought id share if it already hasn't been i lost power to my front doors no windows worked wing mirror stopped and central locking to drivers door, so after stripping own the dash under the wheel to get to the fuse box to check all wires and taking the door cards of and looking couldn't find any damaged wires it turns out that it was the ground wire to the module in the door that had dis connected somewhere in the rum so ive snipped it and joined a new wire to a bolt that has a ground in the door all working again now . just thought i would share in case someone else has this problem

Just to say that I bought a space saver 19" wheel from The Wheel Shop along. As Stevey noted above, I then stuck several sections of polystyrene using gaffer tape (pic 1) to support the wheel and keep it off the battery cables to the left and right. Enough space underneath the wheel to store the compressor and tyre repair bottle (pic 2) (just in case). This raised the spare wheel but there was still just enough thread available on the centre to allow me to use the normal large plastic nut to hold the spare in place (pic 3). Although the spare was a little higher than normal due to the polystyrene, there's still enough space to allow the top cover to sit flat in the boot. Lastly the tools including jack fit in the plastic tray (pic 4) between the battery and the back of the rear seats (blue towel round them to stop rattling).

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.

Post and run! Joined April 3rd - posted plea for help on April 3rd - not returned since to review any responses. Time taken to construct replies is free of charge, but it is time consuming! Best we can hope for is the information maybe of help to others.

Unless the power steering emis whining etc id say it's normal compared to new cars.

Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?

Is it worth considering the abs sensors? As they're cheaper to replace before changing the module

https://www.google.com/search?q=audi+a6+gearbox+code+QLX.&oq=audi+a6+++gearbox+code+QLX.&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg80gEJMTA3MGowajE1qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

happy easter to all the admin thank you for all your time and effort best wishes stephen😁

Hi Sean, I ended up finding the LUK 0B2105266T flywheel on ebay for £300 brand new. The garage removed the old clutch and said it was a Sachs after all… but they put the LUK flywheel in with LUK clutch plate kit clutch has been in nearly 12 months or so and all is well! Had timing belt and water pump done at the same time. I did have a bit of trouble after as the garage said they nudged an EGT sensor when removing the clutch assembly. Car ended up going into limp mode with the coil light and DPF warning coming on. New sensor sorted that.

Turns out the Haynes book threw me a red herring on the ACE engine the mid shaft only runs the oil pump, therefore no need to have a timing point on the cog. I found this out after rotating it with my hot wire rig setup but nothing was happening and the wires to the coil from my golf were getting hot. I even took off the distributor cap and sure enough the arm was not moving. Even I found another string on the net that has a sketch of a hole by the bell housing that should show a timing mark, however that was not moving. Then I went back to Haynes and looked up distributor where I found, I quote “ACE and AAR engines, the distributor is located on the right hand of the engine and is driven off the rear of the camshaft. After finding out my cam belt was 2 teeth out, I put all back together again, indecently the distributor cap had a mount bolt loose, that would not help. I manually cranked the engine over, no issues. Started on the button idled fine up to 60 degrees where the engine started to search again, but not as bad as before. I just instinctively unplugged the isv and she purred like a cat at just over 1k and was rock solid, plugged isv back in and the searching came back, new one on order. I turned off the car, and waited 5 minutes but she would not fire up. Back to Haynes for inspiration and eventually I found a problem that I feel is the root cause,…. The connector on the loom to Part OEM 034919369C has been wired wrongly, not only that somebody tried to correct the fault by forcing the two parts upside down and the new connector is also broken. I have found a you tube person who prints new ones as the connector is no longer available. 3-pin connector 893971974. Has anyone got a wiring diagram for the correct wires to locations they could show to me so I can get this faux pas sorted out. I feel close to getting this car running the way she should again, what an interesting day I have had.

Much appreciated, everyone!

Well after lots of research and worry, I decided against the purchase of that particular car! I noticed a couple of electrical warnings, and with the wet boot, I think it may have been an ongoing problem. So just waiting for my deposit back. Finding it very difficult to find a good used Q7! Thank you for your help and advice though.

Glad you got sorted 🙂

Hi Magnet, Thanks for commenting. I had to drive my car today 70 miles the noise was not apparent ongoing but just when turning on the engine and going slower. I know the belt is tighter because pre garage visit- I took off the casing to see the cam belt - I wiggled it and it was more loose. On hearing the change in sound - rechecked under the casing and the cam belt is definitely tighter. I asked the garage after changing the bolts if my cam belt was OK and they did not say they had done anything to it. The independent garage specialise in audi and use genuine parts. They seem to have a good rep. The water pump is on the opposite side on my 1.4 petrol engine I am told. I am thinking of going back tomorrow to ask them about it. (Noise).

Bill. The Audi service schedule is more or less all you need do to keep it in decent condition, though I would add two caveats: 1/ Change the cambelt ahead of schedule if it has not been replaced for a few years. Even though the car may not have reached the recommended mileage, (you have not mentioned the actual distance covered since the belt was last changed,) belts can degrade even when not used. Given the consequences of belt failure abroad it makes sense to my mind to change it in advance. 2/ Take the car for a fast motorway journey of about half an hour well before your next continental holiday. That will reveal any faults that may need to be sorted out before you go abroad.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Those v70s were great!

Not a lot to go with there Matt. Oil level light? Oil pressure light?

Ok thanks for reply. Took it to main dealer and of course diagnostic test did not reveal malfunction so advised to monitor it. However, later I did notice that if I pull handle hard it seems to stop it from locking but I still do not think this should be necessary so will see how it goes.

Had the same problem, Audi replaced lock system, A4K2 837 016 H …. Audi part

Getting my lock system replaced at the local Audi garage on my A6 2021 .. had the same problem

Thanks Cameron, Take it you have searched EBay, and registered your ‘Want’ on on-line breaker link systems such as Partsfinder - there are more. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Steve, I personally would not go anywhere near that one it looks like cheap trouble until you get the bill for the rebuild, go for a later engine thats got some history and runs, not some vague statement that it did and then spent an indeterminate time in storage, no milage, I think he wants to go to the pub on someones £80, I have made the same mistake in the past especially when driven by desperation, take your time send your cash wisely and make sure what goes in at least works. Steve

Let's not forget we also had a pandemic in 2020 which shut most of Europe.

Ditto what Gareth wrote. Let me add that it is always wise to change the water pump belt at the same time as the cambelt because the same expensive work is needed to access them both.

Hi its pretty tight in there I would definitely check the depth of the recess more than any thing to make sure the tyre width wont exceed the height of the floor cover a good quality rubber boot liner would take care of any chafing issues, my A6 was never even close to the amount of boxes and wires you have. Steve.

You quote "same model as you" the 80 wing is the same across the 80 B4 range, including saloon, ragtop and Avant to be precise part number is 8A0821106. You quote "not requiring any paintwork rectification" This is something you have said, not me. Other than that, thank you for your wishes Gareth.

Hi it took so long because the software to run electric power steering was not that well developed, if mechanical steering fails you can still steer, on the early electrical steering if it fails you are stuck, the main reason for the development of electric steering was emissions as it wont require the engine to drive the pump thus pushing up engine emissions and electric steering has been about on production cars since about 2008. Steve.

Loving those wheels 👍

For sale: 2003 Audi A3 Quattro Sport 1.9 TDI (130 BHP) 3 door hatchback The car has fairly low mileage for its age (not quite146,000 miles). Careful lady owner from 2007 to present (1 prior owner) Purchased in 2007 the car is still running well and has been serviced at makers specified intervals. (Full service history available). MOT covers up to 11 November 2024. Latest regular cambelt & water pump replacement was January 2021 (@135,800 miles). Reconditioned gearbox & new clutch in January 2022 (@139,900 miles). All road springs have been renewed. Suspension bushes renewed. New headlamp housings were fitted in 2017. New battery was fitted in February 2023 (5 year guarantee). New front tyres in November 2023. (Rear tyres have over 60% tread remaining). Minor mechanical repairs were addressed as required during ownership, & details can be provided. There are a few very minor bodywork ‘dings’. Alarm removed for repair (available). Fuel & temp gauges under reading. Love this car but reluctantly selling as we don’t have space for it any more. Looking for best offer of £1,000 plus for this rare A3 variant.

Hi Gareth nothing wrong with ancient , look at us we are still functioning, don't knock it. Steve.

Problem resolved. I replace the tailgate lock. My conclusion is that the lock did not "signal" door open and this causes the towbar to not release etc....

Sorry Full Service History and 2 Owners

Update, still in garage but mechanic had a week off, taken apart and parts awaiting testing, pump and injectors. they did say they had some “sludge” in the turbo hoses ? Not had any experience with these cars before so I’m bald and chewed through all my nails.

It could be a back tyre issue, or any of a dozen different issues from the sparse information you have provided. Whatever the cause, if you bought the car recently take it back to the dealer you bought it from.

Hi its quite a common problem mostly the rubber bit rotting out but if I were you I would take heed of the term not seriously weakened, get under the back clean the alloy bit with a small wire brush and then give it a coat of Waxoyl that will keep the rot at bay for years, did mine when I first got it 2019 and they were still good four years later. Steve.

Hi, I had the same problem on my 2017 a4 allroad last year, same place, o/s/r lower, I had mine replaced at an independent v w garage at just over £100. p.s. my brother, who has the identical car had his go as well on the o/s/r/ seems funny it is always the o/s/r. that goes.

Hi Gareth, try TOYO PROXES my mate has just fitted those to his wife's golf and reckons its like driving on air compared to the Continentals he previously had and also reports back the wet grip is phenomenal. Steve.

No vat they are a very good garage use them alot " viking motors " in rotherham they have 5 star on google thanks gareth

Just another update on the ongoing S-Tronic issues........ Matt, who is a true gentleman member on here and lives not far from me did a full VCDS analysis on the gearbox and read the fault codes, cleared them, read them again multiple times, and then attempted a full Adaption procedure via the VCDS as per manufacturer specifications. There were not really that many fault codes, but the ones specific to the Gearbox were: VCDS 7980: PO726 RPM Signal from ECU - Implausible Signal VCDS 8962: PI707 Clutch 2 Pressure too high VCDS 13791: P2873 Clutch 2 Pressure Engagement too high. That was it really, we cleared the codes, ran the scan again and they didn't return, so then we went onto the full Adaption procedure in VCDS Basic Settings menu, all was well until we got to adaption: IDE02294-Main Pressure valve calibration, whereby it kept giving the message: "Aborted-Safety Reasons" ? We tried this at varying specified gearbox oil Temperature's but to no avail, it just kept aborting half way through the calibration, however when re-reading for any gearbox fault codes multiple times afterwards none appeared ? although we still hadn't / were unable to complete the adaption procedure. I am now going to do a complete oil and filter drain and change service using a Full MEYLE service kit, after this Matt is going to read the codes again with VCDS and try another adaption ! To be continued ........................😮

If you wanted to keep the Audi’s reg and identity, it would be classified as *significant* changes to the suspension, running gear, powertrain etc which would mean an engineer’s report and IVA according to memory. However, it is perfectly legal to alter the body around as you wish so using the identity from the Isuzu would be less onerous. Not pain free, but less pain than the other way round. The rules about major components are what you need to read as well. Points for various bits and you need to score enough to avoid a Q plate. Finding a 2.8 diesel Trooper that hasn’t disintegrated into microscopic flakes of rust is also going to be a mission. I went through similar converting a Land Rover from a 2.25 petrol to 5.9 Cummins 6BT diesel. Having a friendly MOT guy to advise on various aspects was very helpful. And no, I wouldn’t do it again 😀 But good luck if you go for it.

Thank you so much. Will look into them. Sorry to hear you've been ill. Hope you're recovering now? I'd suspended work on the A6 in the short term whilst I've been doing the house up and getting prepped for our new (first) arrival.

I would probably start by removing the door card and seeing what's going on in there and then running a live feed and earth wire to the disconnected components to ensure they are working. Then I would trace back from the component to see where the fault lies.