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  1. Steve Q

    Steve Q

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  2. Magnet

    Magnet

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  3. Stevey Y

    Stevey Y

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  4. Shytot

    Shytot

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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/21/2021 in all areas

  1. Hi the trade off was for the escalating emissions targets, the loose engines as termed were produced as a looser fitting piston does not create as much friction as the conventional tight bore, less friction creates less emissions as it reduces the heat inside the bores thus cutting back on C02, every engineering principle for engines is that they run better when very hot but this has the side effect of raising emissions, Ford almost got round it with the CVH lean burn engine this ran hot but because of the lesser fuel charge it produced less emissions but unfortunately the oil technology at the time let it down. All modern petrol engines burn a little oil its part of the price we pay for driving new off the forecourt and thrashing it a couple of days later which further down the food chain won't help the second hand buyer. Steve.
    2 points
  2. Hello Ron, The answer to your in-bold question is a qualified yes. Qualified, since by the mileage you were doing, the service indicator should be set at an annual service. The alternative (if it’s still the same) is based on a higher annual mileage and is/was termed a Longlife service schedule, which often ran to 18k miles, or c18 months, whichever came first. If you swapped to this schedule, you would obviously save one service in 3 years. I would ask the question - why do you want to be governed by having this 6 year old car serviced at a main dealer, and if that is so important, why would you want to save the cost of one service in that 3 year period - by which time the car will be 9 years old? Short journeys are not good for vehicles, since they are seldom operating under optimum conditions, so getting the oil changed once a year is a sort of investment. If this were mine, I would be untrusting future servicing to a local trusted garage and insisting they use good quality parts. This should be cheaper than operating via. an 18 month schedule at Audi, and give you the same level of servicing as you have now. Some will insist that main dealer service history enhances the future value, but at 6 year old and more, the respective values will not cover your servicing costs. Perhaps you would let us know what you decide to do going forward. Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  3. I USE G3 AND MACHIEN POLISHER THEN FIN WITH G6 THEN POLISH SEAL THEM
    1 point
  4. @Magnettomorrow i'll go to friend of mine...he told me that there is some black connector near the computer that need to be changed (that black connector is doing something related to the engine,and i really do not understand what he is saying) and he told me that last year he and his friends spent almost a week to find what is causing the same problem like i'm having 😁 tomorrow i'll let you know Regards 👋
    1 point
  5. Hello Milan, If the car restarts instantly by turning the ignition off and back on again, then it would be well worth investigating/ changing the ignition switch. No more than a guess, if comprehensive diagnostics hasn’t shown anything. Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  6. Ok update on front doors not opening from key fob well I bit the bullet and took the door cards off removed the door lock took the little grey cover off and cleaned the linkages then used bicycle wet lube oil on the linkages and clips hey presto everything works
    1 point
  7. If you mean will a a3 8v screen fit an a3 8l then I dont think so as the body design is different.
    1 point
  8. Octane rating has nothing to do with the E10 debate mate. Octane rating denotes an ability to resist Knock (detonation) Hi Power cars usually run a high octane rating to prevent detonation and its usually the last transition from road to race fuel. The big Issue with E10 is its corrosive properties. 95 RON E10 and non E10 95 RON have the same Octane rating. Octane rating isn't the issue, from what I can see it will effect classic cars that sit for months on end rather than daily drivers.
    1 point
  9. To jump on this, yes the garage should program the battery to the car. Also the yellow light on the dash is the engine management light.
    1 point
  10. Hi guys ! I’ve manage to find the issue. The i had a problem at the connector of the cable. Was closed circuit (interupted). The electrician scan the whole car and check the ABS connector and found the problem. Everything is alright now Thank God 🙈 if somebody has a problem like mine i recomend to look at the connector from ABS module and the circuit from ABS TO THE WHEEL/WHEELS where say on scan is a fault. The car works and starts perfectly ! I had a job to Luton so thats 250 miles journey with not a problem. Thank you all for the support ! ❤️🤗🤝
    1 point
  11. To be fair most adverts are crap. There really is a dumbing down of people in society, mainly through English language. Especially when you think of the vocabulary used 50, 60, 70 years ago.
    1 point
  12. For any remap I'd recommend a tuner with a rolling road for best results. Don't worry I thought your English was good 🙂
    1 point
  13. Hi Leafypot Did you get your pipe? Just seen this if you're still interested. Breaking 1996 Audi A4 Avant, Estate, 2.6 V6 Manual, Blue, B5 | eBay
    1 point
  14. Hello Jackie, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. It is highly unlikely that the issue of the car not sitting correctly is as a result of a shock absorber failure. The most likely cause would be a broken spring - which is not at all uncommon. If this proves to be correct, then this raises the question about the whether it is wise to also renew the spring on the opposite side at the same time. In my opinion, yes, it is, Now the other question is - why are you arranging for any repairs on this 5 year of car to be undertaken by a main dealer? Logic points to asking this question, when you were prepared to take ownership of the car without even checking that the VAG dealer it was bought off, had serviced it before sale to you. If you couple these questions, with knowledge that an Audi main dealer labour rate is likely to be north of £100/hr plus VAT - £120/hr. may result in you considering getting this car serviced and repaired at a trusted local garage. Since you have the main dealer cambelt cost, you can now easily obtain local garage costs - using Audi parts, which you can buy mail order at discount ( I would be able to suggest a couple of sources if (in caps) you are serious about embarking on this alternative route. Main dealer cost to renew a spring - and/or shock absorber can easily be obtained in advance from the dealer where the car is booked in to. Hope some of this helps to address a sensible resolution to your issues. Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  15. Evening all. New to the forum but not Audis. I’ve purchased a new edition 1 - 1.5 tfsi. Dealer had one delivered last week so I had a look and took it. Happy with spec but is standard edition 1. No extras. Photo not the best as car filthy for some reason. Pick up Thursday once all registered and sorted. Moving from an A4 on my PCP.
    1 point
  16. I have no idea what a stage 1 cr170 is, but if it is a tuned engine then Steve is right, the revs are too low. Generally the more tuned an engine is, the smaller the power band. Most road cars are designed to deliver power over a wide rev range for maximum flexibility, but if you modify the engine for more more power you sacrifice some of that flexibility.
    1 point
  17. That's a significant difference. I'm getting between 7 and 8 miles per litre. I can't see the premium petrol giving me enough additional range to justify the 29p per litre price difference. Looks like you just need to monitor and go with what suits you 👍
    1 point
  18. My advice would be to put in premium as that's still e5.
    1 point
  19. Get your battery tested before doing anything else. It does not matter if it starts the engine satisfactorily, it can still have an internal fault which can interfere with the car's electronics.
    1 point
  20. my mate had same thing happen was his clocks in end
    1 point
  21. It says a4 2001-2008 with Parking heater is compatible. Did a4s cone with a parking heater? I think you'd be ok. Alternatively you could always contact Audi directly.
    1 point
  22. I don't think TT engines were as susceptible to the major problem of dodgy piston seals. Have read here and maybe do some googling on the TT engine type http://casestudies.atlanticmotorcar.com/audi-engine-oil-consumption-correction/ Engine codes CAEB, CDNC and CNDC were tv he main offenders. But as mentioned by you and on other threads here - the petrol engines are *designed* to consume oil. I think it is a trade off for cost of build v tolerance in the moving parts.
    1 point
  23. Highly unlikely that the timing chain would stretch with that milage unlike cam belts chains don't suffer with age related change intervals, as for the oil consumption you will only find out what your chosen vehicles is after you buy it unfortunately, a good indicator would be service history as even the most basic garage knows the importance of low SAPS oil. Steve.
    1 point
  24. Yep it's not just a case of changing to led as led bulbs draw a different level of electricity. If you fit them your car will tell you you've got a bulb out when you haven't. My advice is just to fit brighter standard bulbs but buy them from a trusted retailer so that they're road worthy.
    1 point
  25. No probs at all. I would definitely try and find a system reset video on YouTube as that might solve it.
    1 point
  26. Sorry forgot to say, my expected delivery date at order was end of September, turned up mid/late August
    1 point
  27. I didn't mention that I gave the top a good vacuum first. I used the wet & dry to remove as much of the W2 as possible then drenched the whole lot with the sprayer and again, used the wet & dry. I repeated this several times until the water was mostly clear. Attached photos show a 50:50, the gunk removed from the first pass and a shot of the top when I was done. Obviously, soft tops always look good when wet so I'll have a look in the morning and touch up any remaining stains.
    1 point
  28. Hi check the cam timing if you can it may well have slipped. Steve.
    1 point
  29. Thanks to all for this thread, very informative. The warning came up on my 2019 Q5 when driving home yesterday. I rang Audi assist this morning and they came out to my house and replaced the sensor within an hour. Impressed to say the least. If you have Audi assist, highly recommend calling them to get the sensor replaced.
    1 point
  30. Well so much for getting 3 days to do my wheels…… had to squeeze it into a day and a half…..for a first attempt at attempting to refurbish wheels I m very happy with how they are looking….3 layers of primer, 3 layers of paint, 3 layers of laquer ….. they are not 100% but they are 100% better than what they were before…. Here’s a a few pics…..
    1 point
  31. They're appealing to the same people who do Tik Tok and watch cr@p like Love Island, I'm a celeb,.... To be fair most TV programmes are almost adverts these days!
    1 point
  32. Thanks Stevey, I totally understand the points you raise in your message . I know for the money it’s easier to get someone else to do the wheel job but for me personally I like to do things myself. I accept that a professional job will probably be a perfect finish but I reckon I can get pretty damn close. It’s just a matter of time patience and elbow grease. I have had the paint cans specially made with the colour I want and I am looking forward to getting cracking….. Also as Greysquirrel said if you do it yourself then in the event of anything happening a repair should be easy to sort..
    1 point
  33. Hi the only problem wth rattle cans is the cans contain about 60% air and 40% solvent the rest is paint, if you get the wheels refurbed professionally their paint/solvent mix is about 30% solvent and the rest is paint therefore you get about a 30 micron sweep on the dust coat which accelerates to anything up to a millimetre with the wet coat and drys in record time, they also strip the wheels when prepping and use a fast drying Gell to fill in kerbing marks before priming, thats how they can produce a stunning guaranteed finish in eight hours and at around £50 a wheel it won't break the bank, if you find the right company [mobile ] they even come round your house and do it. Steve.
    1 point
  34. Cheers Gareth, I understand what you are saying about paying someone to get them done but I am a firm believer in doing it myself if possible…. I like the satisfaction of looking at a job and thinking “I did that..!..”…. I have been running a van hire company for over 20 years and have plenty of experience in repairs in all aspects of vehicles trying to keep the vans on the road and looking tidy ……. I’m still not sure about the black…. Might go for a more anthracite kind of colour on them…. Decisions decisions…….
    1 point
  35. Hello Phil, Keith has indeed done a superb job with his wheels. Black as opposed to the colour Kath has used? Personally choice of course, but to me gloss black just looks tarty and cheapens the car - opinions will vary! Re. replicating Keith’s standard of work? Skill will certainly be required, and although you can improve on your yours, only you will be able to judge whether you can meet that skill base necessary to overcome the risk of any work being seen as simply a DIY attempt. You say you had a good discount due to the car’s wheels needing to be attended to, so it may now be worth investing that discount in getting them done once and wisely. Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  36. not the same places I look at, lots of choice ,good prices ,and very good quality.
    1 point
  37. Thanks Steve. Sounds like VAG have saved some more steel again then- bless them. 6 year old (and average mileage?) and needing a bearing changed? Perhaps the progress is marked by selling parts quicker than they previously did. Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  38. Hi Deme I don’t get to use motorways much like yourself and I’ve been using a product called Cataclean and found it to be really efficient on short journeys and definitely improved the performance of my vehicles
    1 point
  39. Good afternoon all I would like to update you all on some feedback I had from a e-mail I sent on Sunday to Audi UK and Andrew Doyle as PHB requested. As mentioned earlier I sent the email Sunday not expecting so much as a reply to it.Monday getting in I checked my e-mails at home to find my e-mail had been forwarded on to the below who contacted me INicholas Willerton Executive Customer Relations Manager Audi UK T 0800 699 888 E executive.office@audi.co.uk Internet: www.audi.co.uk Nicholas has contacted me twice via e-mail, asking if he could speak with me, which he did today,I explained that I had the message come on the car on Thursday and that a looked into it Thursday night at home,I explained that I found this forum and joined it last week, and that it had been most informative and helpful . I offered to send Nicholas the link for this thread in order he can read the posts and the problems encountered by many,across all the ranges of Audi. Happy motoring,thank you all
    1 point
  40. Had the same issues on my A5 and thank goodness for this forum and Google, otherwise as others have had the misfortune of a new ABS unit, I did order mine from EBay but when it didn’t turn up got it from local Audi dealer apparently like others it had been on back order so I was lucky it was in stock, fitted in 10 mins and as others all is good, savings made and no costly ABS repair, still wrong on Audi’s part but doubt anything will change, keep up the great work the posters who gave the great step by step guides that even a non mechanical person could follow 👍
    1 point
  41. Thanks Steve, looking forward to contributing
    1 point
  42. To paraphrase Mandy Rice Davies “They would say that, wouldn’t they!”
    1 point
  43. It's probably the fob battery, they don't last for ever, and at less than a pound for a new one it should be treated as a cheap way of testing the fob.
    1 point
  44. As it's under warranty getting it booked into an Audi garage is a must. Might be worth ringing all the local dealers to see if any can get you in sooner.
    1 point
  45. Hi audi owners. Just treated myself to this little beauty which I should be picking up next week! Really buzzing about it here she is.
    1 point
  46. Have to agree with stevey y, there's standards manufactureres have to meet or exceed, I have just replaced mine with KINETIX DRILLED COATED BRAKE DISCS, and red stuff pads, big difference, very pleased.
    1 point
  47. Hello Steve, Thanks for your help,really appreciate it mate.I’ve ended up buying a fuel filler cap housing, complete with the rubber that I’d split.Hopefully the coloured flap is easy enough to remove and swap for the colour I have already. Fingers crossed, but thanks again, Paul
    1 point
  48. Hi Tom,looks a real beauty, wish you loads of luck with it,I have had my a3 saloon just 3 weeks and it's great fun learning everything about the system and everything else technology moves so fast and cars are amazing now happy motoring Dave Wise
    1 point
  49. Refurb will be £50 per wheel. I guess it depends whst the tyres are like as well. As different size wheel will mean you have to splash out on tyres.
    1 point
  50. My part arrived today from Cardiff Audi. Following the video instructions I've changed this over and had a quick test drive, no more warning error! The only difference I had was there was no release of pressure when I removed the old one. BIG BIG BIG THANKS TO AMBROSE! You are an every day hero. Mark
    1 point



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