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Advice given to me from a VAG specialist on this topic: A tuning box is easy to spot; it's a physical unit and if you crash your car and haven't told insurance it'll void your policy. And they're s#!t. Remaps can only be discovered if someone is looking for it specifically, and knows exactly what they are doing. Insurance companies don't do this. Audi may however inadvertently reset it 😆

Edit: it’s an S-Line, if that makes a difference!

Well it looks like the binnacle needs to go away for repair, Audi wants over £2k to replace it with a new one…..

No worries John, I ordered mine through the same lease broker I ordered my current Cupra Formentor with that's due to go back mid March. They quoted around Feb/March time

Hi sorry to be the bearer of bad news but replacement is the only solution as these units are sealed and no spares are available, mine went the same this year I had to source a second hand unit its HID so its plug in and play, yours will need coding to the car. Steve.

Hi I think you answered your Question in the last sentence which equates to not a lot, all these engines were tested to destruction and when they break they take them to pieces to find out what caused the failure, they strengthen the offending part and up the torque/ BHP slightly, if it works well they just keep upping the power to way past the intended production run power, then whatever the engine has achieved up to 45% above the production Torque/BHP if it runs ok they reduce that figure by 45% to the production run power, thats your reliability factor, if you bear this in mind with the age of your car you are just putting more strain on an old engine thats made it this far with no real issues/wear and I bet if it all goes pear shaped and bits start failing he wont want to know unless it involves more money. Steve.

I recently bought a 2020 MIB-HS SD card for my 2017 audi a3, I have read online that it does work which is why i ordered the card, but when i’m putting the card in it says the navigation data is not enabled does anyone have any idea how to get it working?

Do check in case there is an indication on a sticker somewhere under the bonnet. Might not have one on an older car, but my new A6 this year had the correct oil specs clearly indicated. The manual then advised that you could top up with that spec at any time, but if the correct spec wasn't available it indicated an alternative that could be used only a limited number of times between each full oil service.

A6 Avant boot cover in black for sale. Second hand good condition. £50 collection from County Durham. 51 inches wide and 35 inches when pulled out flat. Please PM me if interested.

I have a 2011 Audi Q7 6 seater, 3 rows of 2 seats with an armrest btween the 2nd row seats, does anybody know if this can be converted to a 3 seat row of seat

You need to add minimum of 5.7 litre and maximum you can add 24 litres to reset it. I would suggest topping up between 7-10 litres. Thanks.

Thanks for joining Chris. Your request for help is appreciated, but it’s rather unusual insofar as requests for renovations are normally aimed at bodywork and body panel requirements. My primary recommendation would be:- don’t entrust this mechanical ‘restoration’ to a ‘company’. The car is now 21 years old, and loosely comes under the heading a ‘classic car’, so if I were in your situation, I would be looking up a local all-makes classic car club, and joining that. Members there should be able to come up with some local recommendations of who to go to, and more importantly - who not to go to. Again, if it were mine, I would be getting that garage to give you a report on its mechanical condition, and highlight and prioritise a schedule of work necessary to bring it to an acceptable standard. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Chris. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Try sending him a PM, since he hasn’t been on here for well over 2 years. Kind regards, Gareth.

Useful point, thanks Gareth

Thanks @Magnet for the recommendation. Yes I do a long distance commute every 2 weeks which I think keeps the battery healthily charged Just having new discs and pads, battery next 🙂

Yeah took a look blackcircles or asda seem to offer best deals atm Regards mark Ps those dynamo tyres were on when I bought the vehicle.

Ah ok mate , yeah I’m gonna ask the questions , I’m a bit nervous but I’ve been watching the you tube videos for a few years and like you say they seem to know there stuff thanks for all your help though mate I’ll keep you updated

If you can actually remove the offending door card in situ. Kind regards, Gareth.

What happened about renewing the known-to-be-inefficient battery Harry? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Carlos, Welcome, and thanks for joining. Would I be daft to suggest even the horn has to be coded in on this virtually new car? Kind regards, Gareth.

I have an issue with my 2012 1.6 tdi A1. The car is in permanent limp mode with the glow plug light flashing, EML on, as well as start stop not working. I believe the code is P0237 which points to the boost sensor. Is this the boost sensor or not (circled)? I did notice on the lower of the 3 pipes had a split at the end, I have shortened it and put it back on so has a good seal, cleared the fault but comes back as soon as the ignition is turned back on. A good google hunt said clean the MAP sensor but I have no idea where it’s located. Any ideas/help much appreciated if anyone has had experience of this issue before?

Hi, need some advice/help Couple weeks back a coil light started to flash and car would then go in to limp mode I had it plugged in just before summer started the lights got deleted and I was told head gasket. But no symptoms of head gasket I have continued to drive the car 100s of miles since this as the light didn’t come back on. Two weeks ago started the car drove for around ten minutes and coil light came on and straight in to limp mode. the car has had egr/dpf delete and dpf gutted. Egr blanking plate also in. now the light comes on every time we drive. I’ve had breakdown out I’ve been to two different garages. Injectors have been checked apparently there fine? one said turbo but again no symptoms of a turbo on its way out. Second person said map sensor we’ve changed that. And still doing the Same coil/management light and limp mode. most garages I take it to won’t touch it.

A lot of the time people often overlook that these lithium car batteries will only work at certain temperatures. The result is it will digest or deplete its own power in order to provide battery maintenance/care management to prolong the life. what’s happening over night is that it could be heating the battery pack on its own power. Or given that batteries tend to work terribly bad in cold weather it’s estimating your range/power according to preset limitations to preserve its battery cell pack. I remember arriving at our hotel in our Tesla hire car looking at the range of 210 miles thinking we won’t need to charge and then getting to it the following morning after removing 9 or so inches of snow and seeing the range of 113 miles and scratching our heads. It wasn’t until we spoke with a fellow electric car owner at the charging station when it drops below -19 the battery heating pack runs literal marathons trying to prevent cell failure/damage.

Yes, I thought maybe the brake disc shields also but they are in tact and not at all needing attention. I was actually shocked at how well they looked and felt. The rubber hose thing is interesting, do you have pics of the part you're referring to?

It's funny really. I try to keep the cars as long as possible, and these extra little preventative maintenance things do pay back over and over. And for what, an extra 15 minutes work when the brakes are dismantled; it's hardly any effort. I was boring though and opted for black which by his standards must make the car go slower 🙄