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bantamdave21

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Posts posted by bantamdave21

  1. Hiya,

    I’ve been Googling this and forum searched and have found many a conflicting tale…was hoping someone could help.

    My car is a 2017 B9 A4. I’ve been set up as key user with Audi themselves and have paid the annual subscription for remote services.

    They told me on the call I can associate my connect profile with the MMI using the pin and it constantly shows up in the app. I’ve tried entering the pin in audi connect in the MMI and it says this service unavailable (or similar - I should have taken a photo) I’ve also seen online you need to enter this into online destination in the nav but can’t find online destinations…

    The car wifi is working and connected to my phone, I have a data sim installed so the car wifi has data access.

    any ideas anyone? I’m not even sure what benefit there is to successfully achieving this tbh.

    thanks 

  2. Hiya,

    Not something I’ve come across tbh. I did my discs and pads but wound them back with OBD type tool or may have used VCDS. And all has been fine since…

    I’d always start with reading codes with a quality device, check for mechanical issues - is the calliper stuff, is it holding on causing heat etc and hopefully you find a direction from that. Does seem odd that a new motor would play up….

    sorry can’t be more help

  3. Hiya,

    After finally sorting out all the little niggles on my A4 (practically rebuilt the entire front suspension including new knuckles and wheel bearings) timing belt and water pump, six belt and idler and tensioner, new alternator and crankshaft damper just because I wanted to know it was all done - I came across a 2017 A4 B9 Avant S Line in twilight grey today at a price I just couldn’t refuse so will shortly have three cars again so the B8 needs to go.

    new clutch fitted April less than 5k miles since. Now just turned over onto 180k miles and just fitted Apple CarPlay and order map updates for the MMI 🤬

    Located Worksop, Nottinghamshire if anyone is looking drop me a line. I’ve thought about keeping it and moving the BMW 3 series Estate along but having two estates as much as I don’t like just makes sense.

    Cheers

    IMG_7234.png

  4. And after all that….I’ve just fitted Apple CarPlay box also then I see a 2017 B9 A4 Avant in twilight grey for a steal of a price and couldn’t help but buy it. Wasn’t even looking….

    So now the saloon has to go….gutted as it literally has new allsorts of everything and will be solid for years to come

  5. Indeed….just an unusual one for me. I must’ve done 100’s over the years.

    Anyway she’s had some more love today new alternator and deflector pulley. The only bits I didn’t change with timing belt and still had a noise. At the time when I was getting timing belt parts i wasn’t sure where the noise was so rather than order an alternator pulley kit and fit it was the alternator I figured I’d go with everything is new so it’ll do another however many thousand miles….even did crankshaft damper pulley so I knew it was good for a long time. And thankfully the engine noise has gone now too….

    keep changing the oil every 5-6k and hope she lives a long life. Don’t work hard motorway to kent every week steady away

  6. Road tested and was bearing. I’m still baffled in honesty, nothing in the bearing spun by hand and feels lovely and smooth - never had a bearing like that in 20+ years but pleased its not the gearbox or not yet.

    new knuckle (couldn’t get the bolt out) all new arms, ARB link which all needed doing.

    the photo is the bearing from pass side which I fitted around 10k ago (I only had one new one which went on pass side around a week ago while trying to track the noise. I don’t like fitting a used bearing back but it was for proving purposes and have ordered a new new one to pop in next week.

    Tracking tomorrow 

    phew…

    Thanks for input….as always 

    IMG_1280.jpeg

  7. That would be my next normally but all new, well less than 2000 miles. I’ve not noticed lumps or bumps in them when I did the other bearing and no jilting of the wheel….

    hopefully it’s the drivers bearing and I just couldn’t spin it up on the drive quick enough. I should’ve jacked it and spun it with the engine although that wouldn’t eliminate the gearbox but at least I could isolate sides…

    • Like 1
  8. 3 hours ago, Magnet said:

    Hello Dave,

    Sorry to hear of your issue. 
    Re. the noise you think is from the gearbox:- 

    Is this noise the same in every gear?

    Is it the same when you accelerate, and does it alter when you decelerate? 
    Have you checked the gearbox oil level? 
    All the above may be useful to be knowledgeable on before returning the car. 
    As an aside, wheel bearing associated noises normally change as you go around bends, as the stresses are placed on or off the bearings. 
    Good luck with sorting it out, but it would be a bit of a coincidence that the gearbox develops issues directly after the clutch has been renewed. 
    Kind regards,

    Gareth.

    p.s. It might be worthwhile to have an independent opinion on the issue before you return the car for checking. 
     

    And that’s what’s throwing me the noise is the same regardless of road surface, straight, left or right hand bends etc. the garage thinks it’s the drivers bearing. I span both and could only hear anything in passenger so changed that. 
     

    I’ve just fitted a new bearing in the new drivers knuckle I have (the bolts seized in my top arms and has been on my list a short while - I don’t have facilities to heat or burn the bolt out)

    so tomorrow AM when it’s hopefully not too warm I’ll swap it over and do all the arms and ARB link at same time (another needed job) and if nothing else I’ll have replaced everything on drivers side too but will keep fingers crossed it’s the bearing….

  9. Hiya,

    apologies from the still novice….I recently had my clutch replaced around 1000 miles ago. Now have developed a not so nice noise first thoughts were wheel bearing so checked them all even replaced the front I hadn’t already replaced and the noise still there. So I’m thinking the worse even if at 175k miles. Not sure if losing oil at clutch change is possible and not been topped up or pure coincidence. It’s going back to the clutch garage today for a check over in case I’ve missed anything on the drive. But suspect it’s going to be needed a new/another box….

    so the question is there a way to identify the box fitted before it’s removed….I’m hoping the clutch garage would be willing to swap it at my cost if it does seem to be the box so would like to start my search for a replacement - it’s a 6 sp manual SE teknic 2014 I’m hoping the answer is all the 6sp are the same or code this or that from x year 🙏

     

    thanks

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