hamzaidlrbe

Turns out the heater core needed to be flushed and now it works perfectly. According the mechanic when we replaced the thermostat we replaced the waterpump as well. He claims that the new waterpump was so good that it cleared the pipes and created a clog. Either way a heater core flush fixed the issue.

13 hours ago, Magnet said:

Thanks Manza, so what are you interpreting from all that? 

I think there is an open circuit in the Compressor that's leaving it open little bit. Then everytime there is more air coming it through driving its opening up more and letting more cold air out which mixes with the hot air the car is producing and I think that's why the AC is constantly warm for me never just hot. But we'll see once again, I'm taking it back to the dealer Friday.

On 11/27/2023 at 3:57 AM, Magnet said:

Thanks Hamza, but I clearly understood your explanation of the symptoms from the start. 
Where I have difficulty is understanding how the thermostat was considered to be the culprit, when the coolant got up to operating temperature ( and maintained that temperature) quickly enough.

My belief is that although they may have changed the thermostat, it has proved not to be the primary cause, and the problem was associated with some malfunction of the heat distribution system - now partially fixed.

From what you now describe, although better, is still not totally fixed. 
No doubt you will be returning it, and perhaps you could keep us informed of the final outcome. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Yah you're right it's not a full on fix it's still on and off. Today I scanned the car used a VCDS and got the following two codes/faults under the HVAC module.

2 Faults Found

65543 - No Basic Setting

B2010 00 [00001000]

Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

Freeze Frame

Fault Priority: 6

Fault Frequency: 1

Reset countec 108

Mileage: 1353 km

Date: 2023.11.28

Time: 21:44:44

First Run-ln

Circuit

Component

Klima Zone 3 H32 00

1048576- AC Compressor

B109E 13 [00001000] - Open

Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

Freeze Frame

Fault Priority: 5

Fault Frequency:1

Reset counter: 108

Mileage: 135549 km

Date: 2023.11.28

Time: 21:45:34

Compressor shut-off condition: Compressor active: no shut-off condition is prese

Compressor current: actual value: 0.00 A

Compressor current: specified value: 0.00 A

Engine RPM:757 /min

Any ideas of what the issue?

On 11/21/2023 at 4:04 AM, Magnet said:

Thanks Hamza,

This is confusing, rather than a solution to your issue, since you inform us that the car was getting up to the correct temperature. As such, I cannot see that the thermostat will be the suspect here (unless you didn’t inform us that it took a long time to get to normal operating temperature). 
 

Not sure who marked this as a solution, but it may be rather premature if we are to study the evidence to date. 
Is it possible to unmark! it ?  
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

 

Sorry for the confusion let me explain more.

so the car gets up to temperature quickly as expected. However when the heater is on and set to high it only blows cold/warm air. Even when set to High and the car is up to temperature. Even after driving for 20-30 minutes. 

Now it blows hot air which is good within decent time but what I noticed is that the air is hotter on the driver side air vent compared to the one all the way on the right side of the passenger. And the rear ones blow more like warm air still. Is this normal?

On 11/19/2023 at 4:33 AM, Magnet said:

Checking if there is any remaining evidence of a bag or crystals, I guess would be a good place to start.

Having said that Hamza, you really don’t have to concern yourself about the cause or fixing of the problem. All you now have to do is to check it’s fixed ( properly) once the seller informs you it’s sorted. 
Perhaps you could let us know how you get on.

Kind regards,

Gareth.

Your right, I was over thinking it. Turns out it was the thermostat. They said they'll take care of replacing it and labour. All should be fixed by tomorrow. Thanks for everything! 

4 hours ago, Magnet said:

Anything to do with the bag of crystals that was/still is added to the expansion tank, and can break up and find its way into the heater matrix? 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

I just looked that up and that seems possible. How would I be able to check ?

1 hour ago, Steve Q said:

If bought from a dealer then they should fix the issue FOC in the first 30 days after purchase.  As you're entitled to a full refund within that time. 

Yah I just called them to see and I'll probably bring it in Monday to see. Thanks! 

7 hours ago, Magnet said:

Welcome to the Audi Owners Club !

Good to have you onboard

Hello Hamza,

Is the car getting up to normal operating temperature on the gauge or display? 
If so, you will need to check if both smaller bore rubber hoses from the heater matrix are of matching heat when the car is up to temperature, and the heater set to hot. 
Are you able to return the car to the seller for them to sort out the issue? 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Thank you so much I appreciate it! The car is getting up to the correct temperature. I'm not losing any coolant and both the rubber hose are pretty warm (but not hot ) when the car is in operating temperature but they're the same temperature for both the hoses. I'm taking it back to the dealership next week to see but I was curious to ask to see if it's a small fix or a big problem. 

So I bought a new 2017 Audi A4 Technik S-Line literally today. It's my first day with it. And I've been driving all day and noticed that the heat from the car is really weak. I have it on high constantly and it's barely hot its more like worm. Any ideas or causes of this issue? I tried looking this issue up here and didn't find anything specific. Anything else even if you refer me back to the correct form. Thanks!