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ertdes

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Posts posted by ertdes

  1. Hi Gareth,

    Euro Car Parts and GSF have no steering knuckles, unfortunately. Motor Parts Direct said that steering knuckles should be obtained from the dealer but as initially mentioned, the dealer is out of budget. That leaves me with:

    1. Helicoil the thread
    2. Buying an aftermarket knuckle online from brands I am not sure about via steeringknuckle.com or Autodoc
    3. Buying a knuckle from breakers (have looked into this, many are very rusted)

    I prefer helicoiling just because I know there is nothing wrong with the integrity of the knuckle itself, the issue is finding someone happy to do it.

  2. Hi Gareth and Steve, thanks for the responses!

    Gareth, yeah I've heard Febi is a good company. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find a knuckle from an aftermarket company which I have previously used or even heard of. I can only seem to find it from the place I linked or other companies on Autodoc which, like I mentioned, is only selling parts from manufacturers I have never come across before like Ridex.

    Steve, I have looked at helicoiling on the forums, can't seem to find a definitive answer on whether it is safe. For day-to-day driving, I assume it is given your recommendation? There's a cheap one on eBay for £10-£15 unbranded (link). Again, I assume branding does not matter when it comes to this? Should threadlocker be used as well? In all honesty, as a new DIYer, I'm scared to helicoil myself just in case I don't drill square into the hole and then ruin the whole thread.

  3. Hi all,

    I have an Audi A3 2010 8PA 1.6TDI. Did a brake job and mistakenly overtightened one of the threads of the brake carrier causing it to partly strip! It doesn't help that the brake carrier is integrated into the steering knuckle. Not sure where to go from here 😞 . The 2 options I can think of are:

    1. Repair the thread - contacted Brake Caliper Refurbs who were happy to try but are asking for the part off the car so I won't be able to drive it for some time (not ideal and the garage I trust are not able to do it as they only have 1 lift)
    2. Replace the steering knuckle - I have found an aftermarket knuckle from Select Automotive for a decent price but unsure of the quality, I have asked Audi for OE price and they are charging an arm and a leg

    What are your thoughts on aftermarket steering knuckles? I'm open to repairing the thread instead but hesitant to do it myself. Any help would be much appreciated! 

  4. Hi all,

    I have an A3 8P 1.6 TDI 2010. I am hearing 2 sounds from the car and I do not know whether they are normal or whether something is wrong. No warning lights have come up on the dash and as far as I can tell, there is no loss of power. I have only recently gotten into cars so your thoughts and advice would be much appreciated!

    Sound Under the Bonnet

    There is a sound under the bonnet when the car is idling. Here is a link to a video of the car when idling:

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_sKT7rQp9FdsMdGPaHqQMRCyQ82NQGuo/view?usp=drive_link

    And when the car is being revved:

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q_FSVZm4kz-Pgl536Pj6Ky2OH-nMoLrA/view?usp=drive_link

    It's a faint sound that can be heard in the background of the loud engine noise and fluctuates in pitch, it sort of sounds like a straight metal sheet being bent back and forth (not sure how else to describe it!).

    Sound When Accelerating

    There is a sound on the driver's side when accelerating, especially in the 1K-2K RPM range (above 2K the engine noise drowns out the sound but it is there). Here is a video of me accelerating the car (taken from passenger side so the sound may not be particularly clear):

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MvTShvO7nukB-CajJ1aTcoN1OB9cmfPW/view?usp=drive_link

    The sound is similar to the one in this Youtube video but is more "airy" for lack of a better word:

    Once again, your advice would be much appreciated!

  5. For those experiencing the same problem as described above, turns out the above symptoms were caused by bad coolant temperature sensors!

    To summarise, the symptoms I was experiencing were:

    • Intermittent high idle of 1000RPM rather than the usual 800
    • Rough idle when the coolant temp gauge on the dash was 70+ C
    • Temp gauge on the dash fluctuating between 70C and 90C (normally the temp stays at 90C once at temp)

    Remember to buy new OEM sensors if changing, otherwise your problem may not be fixed.

  6. Hi,

    I recently had issues with rough idle and idle RPMs intermittently switching between 800-1000 RPM, also 1.6 TDI. Turned out to be bad coolant temperature sensors. 

    Are you getting any warning lights? What exactly happens when the RPMs are 1000? Could it potentially be a DPF regen? Also, what do you mean when you say the car will kangaroo down the road?

    As Steve mentioned, it would be ideal to have a scan to see if there are any fault codes. My car had none but was having the above-described issue.

  7. Hi everyone,
     
    I have a slightly irritating issue that has been ongoing for a few months now. Having driven this car for several years, normally its idle RPM is 800. However, for several months, the car is having intermittent periods of high idle at 1000 RPM and at times the idle can be slightly rough. The car has no fault codes on my Autel machine.
     
    The DPF values before and after the latest regeneration that happened this Tuesday were:
    • Before Latest Regeneration
      • Km Since Last Regeneration - 417.1Km
      • Soot Mass Measured - 0.21g
      • Soot Mass Calculated - 24.26g
      • Oil Ash Volume - 55.3341711g
      • Oil Ash Mass - 55.3341711g
      • Ash Load Limit - 70g
    • After Latest Regeneration
      • Km Since Last Regeneration - 2.5Km
      • Soot Mass Measured - -5.57g
      • Soot Mass Calculated - 4.68g
      • Oil Ash Volume - 55.3402682g
      • Oil Ash Mass - 55.3352631g
      • Ash Load - 70g
     
    When the car initiated this particular regeneration, a grumbling sound came from the engine bay which I had never heard before but it has not happened since.
     
    Having done some research, I am suspecting one of the following:
    • Bad DPF differential pressure sensor/blocked DPF - unlikely as the DPF is regenerating every 415Km or so which I believe is fine
    • Bad alternator - unlikely as there is no battery warning light and the voltage of the battery during idle is 14.5V
    • Weak battery - again unlikely as there is no battery warning light
    • Fuel injector issue - unlikely as there are no engine fault codes and the car is not misfiring
    • Bad thermostat - unlikely as I fitted a new OEM thermostat from Audi in Nov 2023
    • Bad coolant temp. sensor - possible as it has not been changed, over the past week when motorway driving, the temp. gauge on the dash was fluctuating between 70 and 90C instead of staying at its usual 90C 

    Also, over the past week or so, there has been an extra sound coming from the engine bay (I believe it is loudest on the offside of the car) that is louder on accelerating, not sure if this is related. This video of me testing the DPF differential pressure signal wire contains the sound of the engine on idle and while it is revving on idle (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SfIBwlzODhr4Rjy9tdwqpNCoTVE_anyY/view?usp=drive_link).

    What are your thoughts as to what could be causing these issues? Any help would be much appreciated!
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