grahamjf

Thanks for the reply

Hate the idea of speedo being blocked in any way

Hi all

Could someone suggest a suitable pillar pod for my 2005 Audi A4 2.0Tdi RHD B7
Or even post a link for one as I am doing a boost gauge install (52mm gauge)

Thanks

Took the car out today for a 30 minute drive, With the engine running pulled back the bleeder hose on the heater matrix and a good flow of coolant came out straight away. No sign of any air.

Thanks for the reply

I'll give it a try.

Thanks for the reply

How do I go about a backflush?

Wouldn't a blockage in the cooling system cause the car to overheat?

Thanks for the reply

took the car for a 30 minute run temperature still at 50 (cold) Heater warm.
Got back home left the car running took the hose of at the heater matrix with the pin hole. Put the heaters to hottest setting and full speed
Ran the car for ten minutes no sign of any water coming out of that hole or bubbles, Took the expansion tank of and lifted it as high as it would go for 5 minutes still no water.
Switched the car off took the cap off the expansion bottle and after about two seconds there was a good flow of water came out.

Is my water pump gone?

Top of the engine is not hot, you can put your hand on it

Any help on this i'm lost

Thanks for the reply

There are two switches left of the clutch pedal

Pulled back the hose at the heater. There was a flow of coolant then a pause then flowed again.

Hi all

My car runs cold very seldom the car gets above 50 degrees unless it's getting booted up a hill then drops back to the 50 again.
Changed the thermostat to a 88 degrees still the same running cold.
Plugged in live data temperature gauge reads correct when I drive watching the data screen I can see the temperature rising going up a hill and dropping back going down a hill.
When i do a diagnostic check on it comes up with engine coolant temperature sensor changed that for a genuine audi one cleared the codes still comes up with that fault
Took the thermostat out, put it in a jar of boiling water at 88 degrees, I can then see it opening. Poured in some cold water it closes.
No mental black smoke, the heaters good but not mental hot, some times I get 53mpg some times as low as 40mpg all under the same driving conditions.

Top and bottom radiator hoses dont get too hot and the hoses going to the internal heater are not hot (just warm)

Any ideas on this one? I'm totally lost

2005 Audi A4 B7 2.0 tdi

Went down the short belt route.
So now the belt only goes round the crankshaft pulley, powersteering and the alternator.
No more rattles from the Ac 

Gates 6pk1123 micro v belt.

Hope this helps some one else out if they need to bypass there Ac compressor till there pulleys fixed

ESP light came on, done the fault code reader and it came up with 00526 brake light switch sporadic 011- open circuit.
Bought a new audi brake light switch. And the light still comes on. (every two to three days)

But if i switch the car off and on it goes out and wont come back for two or three days.

When it's on there is no change on the car, it drives and brakes as it should.

Any ideas?

Thanks for the reply.

Just had a new belt fitted so not that keen on cutting it up.

None of the car parts people round about me have belts on the shelf, they have to be ordered in.

What is a stretch belt and where do you get them?

Hi All

I am getting a rattle from the aircon pulley, phoned audi for a replacement £180
Don't really want to pay that kind of money as the air con dosn't work on the car any way. 

Is there any way around it? I was thinking of running a short drive belt but there is not a off the shelf belt for a non air con model.
Does anyone know of a belt that would fit?

Audi A4 B7 2.0tdi
2005

Hi All

For the last few weeks I have had issues with the boot lid not catching shut, took the liner off the inside of the boot lid, removed the locking mechanism and took the cover off.

The internal pin that opens the catch was not fully retracted stopping the lock from shutting properly. the motor inside the boot catch was not retracting the pin fully, 

so thought in might be a problem with the electrical connector (3 pin model) removed the terminals from the plastic connector and cleaned them.

But it is still not letting the boot latch properly close causing the warning to show on the dash. It seams to work intermittently, it worked fine after cleaning the electrical connector, but the next day opened the boot with the handle and it wont lock in place again.

Any help on this matter would be much appreciated. 

Audi A4 2005 
2.0 TDI Saloon

Thanks for the reply

thanks for the reply

Egr delete springs to mind lol

Hi all

I took my car to audi to get a diagnostic check done came back as egr valve insufficient flow.
Bought a new siemens EGR valve and I am Still getting the same fault code
The pipe feeding the egr valve has slight oily/sooty coating on the inside which can be wiped off with your finger. No blockages in the pipe.

What else could cause this fault?


2005 Audi A4 2.0Tdi

Hi all

Had my 2005 Audi A4 2.0tdi in to get scanned by Audi and it came up with the engine hydro mount. the sensor has broken off the mount. 
The guy at the garage suggested that you could bridge the two wires that connect to the mount and that would stop the code from coming back.

Has anyone tried this before?

Would this cause the eml to come on?

Thanks for the reply.

It's looking like the wiring or the plug, Did bridge the two pins but no movement on the temperature gauge.

Hi all

Just had my 2005 Audi A4 2.0 tdi in for a diagnostic check at Audi and one of the fault codes said Coolant temperature sensor circuit high P0114.

I have changed that sensor and the thermostat 88 degrees before it went in, I dont understand the circuit high part of it.

The temperature gauge sits at 50 unless im booting the car up a hill, then it will go up a wee bit but wont reach the first notch. It's no where near sitting at 90 like it should be.

What is going on here?

Hi all 

Just joined