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Hi, get another engine I am sorry but however well they stripped it and cleaned it there is no substitute for a hot tank/ pressure cleaned block and a compete strip down and inspection of every part, pistons rings bores, cylinder head, valves and guides. In my early twenties a couple of my mates used to race cars so I sed to go to places like Burton engineering who were quite happy to show you around the workshop where the engines were rebuilt, their engine builders were fanatically clean and one explained to me that the slightest particle of metal in the engine could lead to component failure, especially in high performance engines, if I were you I would be looking at reconditioned engine with a nice fat warranty, job done. Regards Steve.

Hi, Ryan, 110,000 is the recommended change interval and I wouldn't mind betting thats why the previous owner sold it, you won't have a service booklet because they did away with them years ago, is all you get now is a piece of paper sent to you with the service history as far as they have serviced it, this won't include any independent or quick fit service history. With regard to any engine damage I seriously doubt there will be any as it still tries to run but subject to my conversation with William today if the belt has not been changed that could well be the source of your problem, you would be best served filling in whatever garage you use on what you think might be the problem as this always stops any ideas of padding out the bill if they think you know in depth what you are talking about, show them the scan results that will impress them, the best part is my engine is the same as yours and I will log what I have learned from this for any future problems I may have. Wish you the best of luck with this and please can you post the resolution on the forum as it gives good usable information to other forum users, and its been a pleasure talking to you. Steve.🤓

Hi Ryan. Hold the press I used my break today and go and see a couple of people and ended getting involved in a sensor tour of my engine, the Autodata did not pan out as it did not cover your engine and any late engine come to that, apparently you have to pay a massive subscription now and go on line, this has stopped a lot of garages using cloned discs off of the net. The second guy was pure gold he showed me where the G40 and the G28 sensor are located I even found out where the VVT unit was, he does a lot of Audis and VWs and started to show me data logs from some of his repairs at least four of them were nigh on the same as yours, so I showed him the picture of your scan he then proclaimed that I know what that might be and gave me a repair triage, from the top, have you had the cam belt changed recently as the guy has found through experience that if left to the recommended change interval often as not they stretch, they rarely break but will stretch quite a bit, case in point a beetle he had there that had come in with the same symptoms is all he had done was change the timing belt kit, cleared the codes and it ran like a Swiss watch he then showed me a new belt against the old belt which you could definitely see the difference. So he advised the following, have the valve timing checked not difficult as I watched him do my cam belt a couple of months ago and if you can find a decent independent garage they as he has will have the right locking pin kit. If the belt has been changed recently then the most likely suspect is the G40 camshaft sensor which is housed inside the cam belt cover the crank sensor is underneath on the right hand side rear of the engine when viewed from the front of the car. what you have there in the picture is a crank sensor as advertised but the other sensor for the cams has a wire and a plug unit attached, I will go back to my system and using the new info you gave me will see if I can get one definitive part number. As for the dealers don't worry about them they are all brain dead as I found out last summer when I bought two new headlight bulbs, they were adamant that they were D5S bulbs so consequently when I tried to change them it turns out they were D3S original bulbs so the new ones won't fit, another seventeen mile round trip to take them back and even when I showed them the pictures of my original bulbs they still said I was wrong and did not want to replace them because I had opened one of the boxes, I asked for a refund they refused that until I stood in the service counter and phoned Barclays to ask them to stop or recover my payment, they gave me a refund on the spot. Regards Steve.

Hi Ryan bear with me as these are pretty new to me but the principles remain the same, had a study up on the VVT system its the same as most manufacturers these are electromagnetic devices that use controlled oil flow to advance or !Removed! the valve timing via the camshafts, other manufacturers just the same thing but a more complex valve system like BMW the VANOS system, when these fail they cause performance issues, sluggish engine performance not a partial shutdown or other peripheral problems, vet units either work or don't and seem to have their own set of DTCs. So if you go back to your original post changing the oxygen sensor was a good shout as thats pretty close to the recommended milage change interval anyway, the glow plugs again good housekeeping, but subject to the latest scan information my money is still on the G40 sensor as its not talking properly to the G28 sensor, swapping readings hence the term correlation in other words the G40 is supplying G28 with no plausible information, anything to do with engine sensors will affect the engines ability to start a regeneration forced or otherwise. We need to know what engine code you have and the BHP of your engine, mine is 190 BHP CNHA engine, they seem to build virtually the same engine but with different horsepower and engine code denominations if I can find where G40 is hiding I am sure that may well be the answer the timing cannot slip. Regards Steve.