Stevey Y

Hi the condensed version is, you have had this remap and according to the alleged power gains you dont seem to find your vehicles performance to be any different from normal, therefore you now seek ratification that it is better than before but your own tests disprove that, I have no doubt the car was fast enough from the factory,, so why the obsessive thirst for more power which you definitely have not had for your money, I fully understand the remap tuning dynamics but before all of this started the only way to truly tune a car was to improve the air intake, fit higher lift cams to increase the exhaust valve duration fit a free flow exhaust manifold and of course bigger capacity injectors, then the performance was greatly improved, the most obvious flaw in this whole thing is 150nm of torque but if the limiting part of the program is still in place how the hell are you ever going to experience that gain. Steve.

Hi would say it is possibly the pads sticking in the runners, I personally tend to check the condition of the discs and pads before condemning anything else, the age and condition of the battery has a great bearing on handbrake performance. Steve.

Hi as I said its with checking the turbo hoses, its most likely one of the ones from the turbo to the intercooler or the other side of the intercooler were it goes to the throttle body then are the hoses that get most of the cr@p from the PCV valve. Steve.

Hi probably, as the unplugged MAFF would be in default strategy as its not able to measure the airflow and the ECU would limit the amount of air coming in and form its own triage for combustion based on the info from the MAP and the air temp sensor in the throttle/ manifold housing, I am assuming its diesel. Steve.

Hi it sounds like it may be a boost leak on one of the Turbo hoses, have a good look at them for oily residue it only takes a tiny hole to loose pressure and it whistles or hisses.

Hi I was in no way trying to cast aspersions but based on what I know about the SFD guarded software system and how it works I am a bit sceptical as to the reason why the test drive results are not like night and day, as an example I have owned many Fords and had MK4 Titanium X 2.2 175bhp 320nm torque, I then got the big boy the MK4/5 facelift 200bhp and 400nm torque, the difference was astounding, so based on that I would consider that the figures you gave would be shatteringly different from standard. Steve.

Hi if as you say the lights are a British design you should be ok as they will comply with the road laws in this country, as for the washer system you wont have any as the original units were halogen, washer system not required, the manufacturers produce all bumpers with the caps for this function it saves making two types of bumper, those with and those without. Steve.

Hi how was the extra BHP/TORQUE proven, did you have it on a rolling road? or did he just tell you what you wanted to hear, want to hear my theory?, 2020 on all the ECUs and other modules on VAG vehicles are protected by SFD which wont allow you to do anything like that to the ECU or any other module on the car, you would need the correct software to present a challenge code to the dealer mainframe and if accepted the mainframe issues a clearance code to allow the function to be carried out, if the mainframe has any issue with the function it simply refuses access. Steve.

Hi if you have converted a halogen lamp to HID/LED it probably wont pass a vehicle inspection for the following reasons, HID bulbs need a washer system and will need a levelling sensor with the associated wiring, LED bulbs tend to destroy the beam pattern unless the lamp has a fisheye lense but even then you may not get a beam cut off line which will also fail. Steve.

Hi the warning light is telling you that you can't over rev the engine, being yellow means it is not serious but must be read on a scanner to identify the fault at the earliest opportunity. Steve.

Hi David sorry to hear of your problem, unfortunately every consumable part in a car engine has a [how long is a piece of string] life expectancy but I am sure the new one will solve your problems. Steve.

Hi I assume the quote for the repair was made by Audi, just find an independent garage, the sensor is about £70 and involves taking off the front splash guard underneath drain out the oil unplug the sensor undo three 10mm bolts and it falls out, also if you inspect the top of the engine with the cover off in there somewhere is a tube with a plastic bung, thats your dipstick tube. Steve.

Hi sorry its a new headlight, the strip is replaceable but nine times out of ten its cheaper to buy an aftermarket unit and fit that, DONT go anywhere near a stealership they will ruin your wallet. Steve.

Hi dye testing is a must as that will show exactly where the leak is rather than guessing, can't help you with the evaporator unit change but that item is odds on favourite as the moisture rots it out. Steve.

Hi go on a site called ZAP 7 and put in your VIN that should bring up a parts catalogue for your car, the part number is the key to getting the right part and YouTube is the best source of how to if you are unsure how to fit the part. Steve.