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Appoman

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  • First Name
    Steve
  • Location
    Hampshire
  • Audi Model
    A6
  • Audi Year
    2010

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  1. no problem, that's what these forums are all about :-)
  2. Hi Jon Nobody replied to my post with a solution, but I may now be able to help you instead The fault was not the DPF sensor, but it was the aircon pressure sensor - replaced that, and all is good. I was only billed for one job too, so have to applaud Audi for that Hope it helps Steve
  3. Hi all Audi A6 2.0 TDi 2010 (60 plate) I had a service and timing belt done a few weeks back and since then the engine fan starts up immediately the engine starts and stays on until it's switched off. No over-run, that I've noticed. Audi told me that the DPF sensor had a fault and was causing the problem. Got the job done, collected the car and guess what - the fan is still on all the time. Sods must have known it wasn't fixed. I'll be taking it back, but in the meantime does anyone know if there is anything that could have been damaged during the timing belt work which could be the cause? Call me suspicious, but this problem only started immediately after the timing belt work was done.... I'm not a massively experienced car mechanic, most knowledge is to do with 2002 BMW 530i M Sport, but I am reasonably practical and if there are coolant temperature sensors (for example) which I can check then please can someone point me in the right direction or give me a link to previous threads if they deal with this issue? The coolant level seems too high in the reservoir, don't know if that can cause an issue? cheers Appoman
  4. thanks Piotr, I'll give that a try Can I just check details about removal: quarter panel - do I remove internal trim or can the securing nut be accessed without doing so (there looks like there is a cover over a hole, but could also be a trim fastener, and I don't know which) boot cluster - is it also secured from behind, and how much trim needs removing to access the locking nut If this was a 2002 BMW 530i MSport then I'd know what I'm doing, but I'm new to the Audi construction Cheers Steve
  5. I wasn't even sure whether these lights are bulbs or LED....if LED then maybe the high price option awaits me But why does the boot-mounted light fail as well - there isn't any condensation in that unit - and do you know if that one is a bulb or LED?
  6. Hi all This is my first post here because (believe it or not) I haven't had anything break on my A6 TDi S-Line 2010 (60)....but now I do have a problem. First time the problem happened it was near-side rear brake light warning symbol on the dash - tail lights were all ok, brake light in the boot lid was faulty (1 out of the 3 sectors which can light up when braking). Car was in for a service and Audi changed the bulb and said all fixed. Not correct, warning symbol again. Next time it happened I checked the lights again and the inboard bulb in the wing-mounted lamp was also gone - 2 out of 3 sectors gone Next time I got another warning symbol for tail light - and now the outboard bulb in the wing-mounted unit is also not working for brake or tail lights. Indicator and reverse lights work fine, for now at least. Confusingly, when I get the wife to turn the lights on and watch from behind the tail lights flash on once or twice before going out completely. The wing-mounted lamp housing has a small amount of condensation inside, there is a small crack in the plastic housing. I have read about corroded pins in the sockets and bulb holder, so maybe a new unit would fix this, but I don't see how this can explain the failed brake and tail lights which are in the boot lid unit? Could it be a fuse issue, earth issue - or any other ideas really welcomed, before I embark on diagnostics or spending loads on a new rear unit Cheers
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