Jim70

Hi Gary, I have the diesel model and it does have the mhev.

It will carry out the intelligent coasting if you have the air con off and will only cut the engine when the start/stop is turned off also.

You'll only notice it by the rev counter going down to "ready" then if you press the accelerator the engine will restart and return to normal running.

Hope this clears up your query 😀

Hi Frankie, difficult to pinpoint fault without seeing anything. If your able to remove inner door and have a look at the connection between inner door handle and the lock mechanism.

It's possible the cable between them has broke or has come loose somehow.

Good luck, let us know how you get on 🙂 

On 11/16/2022 at 10:32 PM, Mickwillow said:

Has ur car had the recall 42L1 for rear suspension nuts ? And if so how what date was it carried out ? 
only asking because I’ve had  wheel alignment issues which I ended up with a complaint with Audi Uk 

Just had a quick look around online and it seems to be USA and Canadian models with the recall. Not sure if this is the case but I shall certainly ask next time I'm passing an Audi dealer.

On 11/16/2022 at 10:32 PM, Mickwillow said:

Has ur car had the recall 42L1 for rear suspension nuts ? And if so how what date was it carried out ? 
only asking because I’ve had  wheel alignment issues which I ended up with a complaint with Audi Uk 

Hi Mick, I couldn't say if it's been done or not. I wasn't aware there was a recall for that but will check with Audi the next time I'm in and will let you know.

I got my 4 wheel alignment done by an independent Audi specialist so I would have thought they may have mentioned it but maybe not.

It all seems fine now though.

On 10/24/2022 at 7:43 PM, Magnet said:

Hello James,

It must be me and my age, but I’m confused by your post. 
You say you told the Kwick Fit person to ‘carry on’ with the wheel alignment. …‘when he came back and said…£ and 10 mins’ you said ‘don’t bother’. So can we really take it the alignment wasn’t adjusted?? 
If it wasn’t, how is your steering wheel now off centre? If it wasn’t before, then how is it now - if it wasn’t adjusted!? 
I’m lost now! 
I hope for your sake that your chosen technicians do indeed know how to use their sophisticated equipment. It’s surprising how many people put their trust in the best of equipment, and believe the operators must therefore be just as good. 
I’m sure it will all work out for you. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

 

 

Hi Gareth, sorry for the delayed reply. 

When I got new tyres fitted by Kwik fit, I had noticed that the steering wheel was slightly off centre afterwards, no idea why but I managed to get the 4 wheel alignment done by an independent Audi specialist and it's now all okay :).

I was looking for the Audi settings just as a reference point as my mate has basic wheel alignment equipment. 

Cheers

James

Hi Gareth,

I didn't think the tyres were unevenly worn but the nearside tyre was more worn than the offside, only because they weren't changed at the same time previously.

Current mileage is just over 18000mls. My issues all started after the two front tyres were changed at Kwik fit and the guy said we do a free wheel alignment check, so i stupidly said that's fine, carry on. Really wish I had told them to leave well alone. When he came back to me afterwards and said it did need adjustment, front and rear, I asked how long would it take and what cost, wait for it..... told me 10 mins and £116.00, so I said don't bother, there's no way that can be done properly in 10 mins. Any other places I've spoke to said it takes about an hour to do a 4 wheel alignment properly.

After I got the car home, I changed the two front wheels with the new tyres on to the rear with the slightly more worn tyres now on the front but they're good tread too. 

I noticed after a couple of days that the steering wheel was slightly off centre. I was looking for Audi settings as my mate has alignment gauges and was going check to see what was wrong.

Anyhow, I've now got it booked in at a local Audi specialist who have the Hunter 4-wheel alignment system which seems to be the best/latest and these guys do know how to use it lol so I'll see how I get on with them and let you know how it all goes.

Cheers

James

Can anyone help with any notes on the wheel alignment settings for my 2020 A6 2.0 TDi FWD model.

Also, can anyone recommend a decent company that knows what they're doing with getting the 4 wheel alignment set up.

2 hours ago, Stewb said:

 Hi James 

That's the same that happened to mine, I went to Kwikfit and was told it was fully gassed. no cost yippee.

So I looked on line and a lot of the Americans had the same problem so I ordered the sensor part number above,

and at 20 quidish it's a no brainer in my opinion to try this first and it's so easy you wouldn't believe it.

Sorry for the late reply just back from the wet Isle of Skye M8.

Thanks for reply mate. I ordered the sensor, same part number and for the sake of 20 quid (£19.85) to be exact lol.

Have just got in from work and the sensor arrived today so just popped it in and it's worked a treat 🙂 

much appreciated mate, saved me a whole lot of hassle, money and possibly a sweaty weekend 😂

On 7/10/2020 at 12:02 PM, Stewb said:

  Hi guys

About 3 weeks ago my AC packed up so looked online for a fix, and ordered a air conditioning pressure switch 4H0959126B.

Fitted the switch this morning and hey presto I now have full AC again, just in case anyone has no AC try this before you go to the dealer.

The switch is located on the right hand side of the condenser in front of the radiator when looking from the front of the car.

Make sure the engine is cold so not to loose any fluid on the A6 C7 you only have to take of the plastic cover on top of the grill,

then unscrew the sensor and replace with the new one an easy fix for about 20 quid. 

Hope this will help some off you out.

          cheers

Stewart.

Hi Stewart, glad you got it sorted.

How did you know it wasn't working, was there any other signs or was it just blowing warmer air?

Just about a week ago I noticed my air con wasn't as cold as normal and then put it on yesterday and it's not cold at all.

I thought it may need a re-gas but now thinking could it just be this sensor?

10 hours ago, Magnet said:

Hello James,

Great. Glad you have sorted it, and equally pleased you have taken the trouble to report back to the forum, which will be of help to others in the future. Unfortunately, such follow-up responses are rare. 

I’d certainly be happy to be able to work alongside you,  once I could see you were a ‘genuine VAG sensor’ man only. There are some dubious aftermarket parts out there, and their use can lead to all sorts of ongoing issues when ‘it can’t be that sensor - I’ve just replaced it’ 

I tend to do what you do - buy quality parts at best shop-around prices.

Many thanks again and kind regards,

Gareth. 

 

Hi Gareth, thanks. Me too, it did cause me a bit of a headache initially but with a bit of research and various testing I got there in the end, thankfully at not too much expense. 

It's always good to try and help someone out if they're having the same problems so hopefully some people will benefit from this post.

I don't see the point in saving just a few pounds if you can get genuine parts at affordable prices. They're generally better quality and with the likes of sensors which work on very small tolerances it's a must.

Cheers

James

On 5/12/2019 at 6:54 AM, Zohaib said:

Hello,

I have 2.0 TDI audi c7. I have engine management light on. When i scan for error codes i get dpf bank 1 above threshold. Recently, i got my dpf cleaned, i was told by mechanic that it wasn't bad but still he carried out forced regen and everything. 

-no limp mode

-regenerates every 200-250 miles

-soot mass calculated/measurd below 25g. 

-45mpg combined mileage (not bad)

But i have noticed that sometimes soot mass measured goes in negative value. And at idle my dpf sensor voltage is above 1V. 

I dnt understand why my engine management light is on because of dpf although my car is not in limp mode i have done about 1000+ miles with warning light on. 

Could someone plz help me to get rid of engine management light? 

Thanks.

Did you get this issue sorted? 

On 10/11/2019 at 3:19 PM, Jim70 said:

Hi all.

I've had an EML on for the past week or so and did a scan which showed the fault code as P2002 Diesel Particulate Bank 1, Efficiency below threshold.

The car is still running fine with no other issues.

Not sure exactly what this means but I've done a bit of research on it and it seems to be a common problem 🙄.

Anyhow, after trying some things, like running car at higher revs on motorway, using higher grade fuel, the EML has returned with same fault code 😞.

I purchased both DPF and Exhaust manifold sensors and replaced them today, cleared faults but my question is, do I NEED to code them with VCDS and how do I do it?

When I plug the car in to VCDS and open Engine controller module it won't let me recode anything as in picture??? Coding ll and measuring blocks is greyed out??

Anyone help plz.

Thanks.

 

 

UPDATE. Just a bit of info. These sensors seem to be a common problem, if your getting this same fault code then I'd look at these first.

I'm sure it was just the one sensor that was faulty but I replaced both just to save any hassle in future.

(Not saying this is going to be the cause on all occasions but it's certainly the cheaper option)

I got both genuine VWAG sensors for £65 on eBay 🙂 compared with Audi wanted £72 each.

Also managed to get the adaption done in VCDS by going in to Engine then Basic Settings and there's a drop down menu in there.

Hope this helps anyone with same problem. 

Thanks Lee,

all seems ok so far and the car is going great, actually feels more responsive since I changed the sensors.

The vcds set up as great, but there's a lot to learn as there's so much you can do with it.

I don't really do many short journeys so I was doubtful it was the DPF. That's a good tip though as it should help keep the system running better. 

Thanks again for your help.

1 hour ago, HusbandofStinky said:

Just picked up on this posting (sorry) and one thing is, I would always recommend a map and have always mapped diesel cars for years. (20+ years) 

I think 232bhp is a bit optimistic, but should easily get a good 30 ish bhp so not far off

Always do your research (forums are best imo) and use a good tuner. The one I use is a fair old drive away but they have mapped a Leon, Superb and an A6 over the years and are very well established within the VAG forums 

RR printouts can be a bit misleading and vary from one place to another, however mpg should be better (I reckon 2mpg on a 2 litre) and the car more 'driveable'. The power will be there and you will easily notice the difference, but a heavier right foot will give you worse mpg than it was before hand. Real world and it should be better marginally. 

I know this post was a while back, but I hope you went through with it, if the tuner you was going to had a good history.

 

Hi Lee, 

Thanks for your reply but I've decided not to bother with it.

It wasn't so much about the extra power but more about the driveability and possible fuel consumption. 

I really enjoy the car and it's got enough power and tbh, the fuel consumption is pretty decent so after thinking about it for a bit, I didn't see much point of putting out that money.

Since you seem like a knowledgeable guy, could you possibly help me with another issue?

I had an EML on with the error code P2002 which is Diesel particulate bank 1, Efficiency below threshold.

I have since replaced the DPF sensor & Exhaust pressure sensors (both same parts) cleared the faults with vcds and it seems ok since last week, No EML,,,,,🙊 yet.

Do I need to adapt or code the new sensors with vcds and how do I do it?   

Have been searching online for a workshop service/repair manual of some sort, pdf or book. There's lots of different ones available, mainly downloads but not sure what one to go with.

Don't mind paying good money for a decent one. 

Has anyone bought a decent manual that they can recommend? 

Hi all.

I've had an EML on for the past week or so and did a scan which showed the fault code as P2002 Diesel Particulate Bank 1, Efficiency below threshold.

The car is still running fine with no other issues.

Not sure exactly what this means but I've done a bit of research on it and it seems to be a common problem 🙄.

Anyhow, after trying some things, like running car at higher revs on motorway, using higher grade fuel, the EML has returned with same fault code 😞.

I purchased both DPF and Exhaust manifold sensors and replaced them today, cleared faults but my question is, do I NEED to code them with VCDS and how do I do it?

When I plug the car in to VCDS and open Engine controller module it won't let me recode anything as in picture??? Coding ll and measuring blocks is greyed out??

Anyone help plz.

Thanks.

On 8/2/2019 at 3:36 PM, T-Cut said:

Hi and welcome to the club.

If you have VCDS you can do a forced DPF regen. Ross-Tech have an How to

Hi Alan, Just came across this post. I have a similar issue where the EML has just come on today but no loss of power or anything. Although the AdBlue level warning came on today too, albeit just the 1500 mls top up advised so I've topped that up and cleared the EML and took the car for a short 15 min run keeping the revs above 2000rpm.

Beforehand I plugged in vcds and done a scan which came back with a fault code of "19226 Particulate Trap Bank 1"

                                          "Efficiency Below Threshold"

I haven't heard the car do a regen for a while now which I'm usually aware of and was going to do a forced regen but its not very clear how to do it on Ross Tech site.

Wondering if you can explain a bit clearer plz? 

Cheers

Hi guys,

Just wanted to get some thoughts on this. I got a quote from a pro tuning company which specialise in Audi's for an ECU remap which takes the power from standard 190BHP up to 232BHP and the torque from 295lb/ft up to 388lb/ft.

I know it's not all about the power, this apparently helps with smoother acceleration through the whole rev range and can increase fuel economy depending on driving style of course. 

Anyone had this done, if so is it worth the cash? I got a quote for £360 which I thought was reasonable.

Hi Mandy,

Yes, he's correct in saying you do need to plug the car in to wind back the rear park brake motors.

The software/lead is a bit expensive but it may be worth the cost as you can then do all your own servicing and fault finding without paying for a garage to plug in and clear service/fault lights. I had purchased the VCDS lead from Gendan mainly so I could do all this myself and it will save me a fortune in the long run.

I would be very weary of the cheaper versions of software kits as I've heard it's a nightmare if not done correctly and can be expensive to fix if it goes wrong.

Hope this helps.

5 hours ago, Petrol head said:

Hey James,

Has it resolved ?

Hi,

Since I cleaned the electrical contacts to the EPB motor and cleared the fault code a while ago now it's been fine. About 2/3 weeks ago the same fault appeared but it cleared itself without me doing anything so I'm assuming it is just a poor/dirty connection. I'll keep any eye on it and have another look if the fault reappears.

Have you had the same problem?

On ‎6‎/‎15‎/‎2019 at 10:28 PM, Magnet said:

Dont quote me! since I’m trying to get my aging brain around these systems, but there could now be two batteries fitted to your car.

Just to clarify things on the battery.. There is only one battery and it's a big expensive one in the boot 🙈. I had an RAC recovery guy out to my works van and while he there I asked him about my car, whether it had two batteries or what.

Sorry that's probably no help to finding what the problem is though 🙄

Hope you get it resolved mate and two fingers to the xxxx that sold it to you probably knew fine there were faults on it.

Hi Gareth,

I was only going to change the water pump as a matter of course because I was changing the belt but I'm not going to bother doing it just now.

I went into a garage that specializes in VAG repairs/servicing to ask how much it would be for him to do the job, he estimated about £500 and would only fit genuine parts anyhow.

I had a good chat with the guy, he was extremely helpful and advised me with the age and mileage (nearly 5 years old with just under 30,000 miles) of my car he said there is no way it needs to be done just now. He has done them in the past and said these belts are made to last and it's 10 years or 130,000 miles before this job needs doing 🙂 so I'm happy to leave it for now. 

Cheers

On ‎4‎/‎11‎/‎2019 at 6:42 AM, Magnet said:

Hello Jim,

Some might (rightly?) say that since the car has only covered a low milage then changing the belt and assembly after 5 years is unnecessary. What often gets forgotten is that once a car gets to operating temperature and is say even covering high mileages on the motorway, the long term stress on the belt may be less than a low milage car which has been mostly used on short trips where it seldom gets up to temperature.

As a matter of interest, what kits with water pumps have you been looking at?

Kind regards,

Gareth.

Hi Gareth,

Yeah I agree that short stop/start journeys will put more strain on some things. I've had the car just less than a year now and don't do many short journeys but I don't know how the car was driven before so this is why I'm keen to change the belt/tensioners on mine.

I had a look online and came across a Gates kit that includes the belt, pump and tensioners for around £150.

What's your thoughts on this kit? 

Cheers

Jim

On ‎4‎/‎8‎/‎2019 at 7:35 AM, vuduo2 said:

Hey Jim,  thanks a million for getting back to me.

All credit to numptiness, me of course!! , as you suggested, within the service manual it mention's "Replace toothed belt" 2.0TDI models @ 133,000 miles.

A quick google has confirmed "Toothed Belts" & "Timing Belts" are the same.

What I cannot understand is why main dealers are all saying the timing belt is due for replacement at 75,000 miles ( apart from money grabbing reasons)

🙂🙂 we can all be a bit daft sometimes, can't see the wood for the trees lol. 

Thanks for all the info/email from Audi UK 👍

I've had an interesting read through all the comments on this post. It's always good to get varied points of view and all valid. My car is coming up for 5 years old but has just under 30,000 miles on it.

I've had a look for the timing belt kit with water pump and tensioners and going to do the change myself very soon just to give me peace of mind.

At the end of the day, if you're a bit wary of it and the history of the car, I always say just change it, then at least you know it's done.

Cheers

Jim

Hi Gerry,

Check your service/owners manual, it does tell you in there. I think it goes with age or mileage, whatever comes up first.

If your in any doubt about it though, I'd always advise to change it anyhow as it can be very costly if it breaks.

Cheers