audiA4carpet

I assume you have scanned it for codes, if so put the scan on here so that we can help.

Any chance of posting a video/audio of the noise,

and the circumstances under which it occurs

it may help us to diagnose.

I assume it's an automatic?

Could be a host of things. Really need a stethoscope, and car in the air to try and isolate it. 

Could be the heat shield, or exhaust not properly installed, etc.

If you can get a spare car battery for a short while, then connect the spare battery before taking out old battery, to avoid disconnection of power.

Fit new battery. 

Then disconnect the spare battery.

Hopefully the car computer will never know that the battery has been replaced, and may just start charging after "learning" for a week or so.

"with the usual hole in cylinder head"

Why do you say "usual"?

Unfortunately, another example of Audi designers trying to make basic DIY'ing as difficult as possible.

Solar trickle charger may help while we are off the road.

Never done the battery myself, but if you can find someone local with VCDS software, they maybe able to program the new battery for you for a fiver (£5) or  a pint of beer.

Hello

I am after a DIY manual for my car. Ideally the sort of thing the dealers use.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Yes, best to get check the codes first.

16 hours ago, Magnet said:

 

Although the cambelt has just been done on the A3, I have been ‘banned’ from carrying out such jobs! -

 

"banned" - please elaborate

Hi

Also, the following might info help.

Mileage, number owners, service history, etc.

When does it judder, and under what circumstances.

It would be fair to say that the Audi designers have made it as difficult as possible to DIY our cars.

20 hours ago, Magnet said:

Apologies Peter for throwing this one in, but I would never (in caps) advocate fitting an aftermarket pump, since they can be of dubious quality.

In fact if push came to shove, I would prefer to take a chance and leave the existing one there if genuine VAG, rather than fitting an aftermarket one. 

Genuine VAG pumps should be available at discount for under £60ish, so why compromise the whole critical assembly for an extra £30? 

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

I agree. For that price, just get a genuine VAG one.

Have you got a link for your write-up about the cambelt job.

& Where's the best place to get genuine VAG parts?

19 hours ago, Magnet said:

Hello Peter,

Are you talking £30 for a genuine VAG water pump? 

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

No. That would be for a non-VAG one.

Would be better if you can use a VAG one, but I'm not sure of the price  of that. 

Change the water pump while you are at it. (it's only about £30). It's false economy not to.

If afterwards you find there are issues with the water pump, it may break the cambelt which will be expensive.

If the pump doesn't last another 5/6 years then you'll have to pay all that substantial labour cost again.

2 hours ago, mogsy said:

Just to answer myself, replaced the clutch master cylinder, car now starts ok, handbrake releases ok, gearchange recommendation has returned and strangely the radiator fan which was starting when the engine was switched off is also now normal, strange.

Hi

Thanks for updating.

I have a similar issue with cruise control and e-brake auto-release not working (see post link below)

I wasn't sure whether the clutch pedal had a micro switch or whether the switch  was in the clutch master cylinder.

Did you replace the CMC (clutch mater cylinder) yourself or a was it done by a garage?

If DIY is it a big job?

How much did it cost?

Thanks

)

Hi

The cruise control doesn't work on the car - it won't even engage.

The braking e-brake won't auto-release. Have to press on foot brake to manually release the parking e-brake.

The car won't start unless I press the clutch pedal - which i assume is normal.

Any thoughts what it could be?

Thanks

General interest. 

It seems to happen a lot on many forums, but It's a bit rude to start a thread, and then not update it with an outcome either way.

On 3/13/2020 at 6:58 PM, Dagmara said:

Hello, 

I've got audi a4 2009 1.8t tfsi 150k mileage 

I've got a problem with a gearbox. 

1st and 2nd gear are difficult to change while changing when engine is cold. Works smoother when the engine warms up. 

I drop it to the garage, and was told that the oil could possibly be too thick.

I have collected car from a mechanic today who drained and replace the gearbox oil to 75W 90 Semi - syntethic. 

Mechanic said there was some metal shavings in the gearbox oil and it could be the first sign of possible "end of the gearbox life" which makes me feel a bit worried... 

After having gearbox oil replaced It didn't really help + now there is a creaking noise while changing the gears.?! 

I've message them to ask but will prob get an answer after the weekend.

Any ideas? 

 

That's just a characteristic of the gearbox. It's not actually a fault.

Don't worry about it, carry on as normal

Seems like the garage gave you some b-ull sh-t, just to charge you for an oil change. But they may of caused your other issue thou.

@B8sline143

An old thread, but what happened in the end?

On 3/11/2020 at 9:09 AM, Magnet said:

 Hello Peter,

All in good humour - you really should not be saying ‘..........owner...........is actually such a dipstick.....’    Not nice! 

Predictive text eh!

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

LOL -  What a difference one word makes. sorry meant to say.

However, I was really looking for a response from an Audi owner who has the same engine and is actually using such a dipstick, with those measurements.

On 9/5/2019 at 4:48 PM, Beacon123 said:

Hi

Anyone else had any problems with a 2018/19 audi q7 3.0tdi with the 48v hybrid system with gearbox/hesitation issues which results in loss of power ??

Automatic gearbox or manual gearbox?

Yes, thanks for the info.

However, I was really looking for a response from an Audi owner who has the same engine and is actually such a dipstick, with those measurements.

here's a photo of said engine.

The green arrow is where the oil filter is.

The red arrow is the dipstick tube (but no dipstick I assume)

The engine oil filler cap is just out of the picture where the  blue arrow is 

Hope that helps.

Hello 

Just purchased an Audi A4, 2009, 2.0 TDi 4-door saloon.

I'm not sure which engine I have, it maybe the CAGA 3380. Anyways, the oil filter is towards the back of the engine on the RHS, and just in front of that is what looks like an engine oil dipstick tube - but I suspect that is just a bung at the top and there is no dipstick as the car as MMI electronic oil level indicator which is showing full.

I'm looking to get one of those adjustable engine oil dipticks.

Has anyone used such a dipstick on a the same engine, and what are the measurements (cm or mm) from the shoulder to

1) the minimum oil level, and

2) the maximum oil level, and

3) the distance between the maximum and minimum oil levels

Thanks

PS - the engine oil filler cap is at the front of the car, towards the Left hand side - if that helps.