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Harris last won the day on May 5 2020

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    A4 Convertible 2.4 V6
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  1. Is there any way to bleed air out of the system other than topping up the water tank? the car didn’t overheat prior to me swapping the radiator. It had been loosing coolant more and more since last July and I was at the point I had to top it up every time I got in it. The old rad was rusted out all over and leaked from most of the vanes. I changed it with a brand new radiator from euro car parts as Audi didn’t have one in stock and with lock down had to order from the factory I only drained water from the rad bottom bleed screw before I removed it- as the rad was so blown not much more came out- the heater control in the car was set to 22 but turned off before shutting down the engine the last time I drove it as I knew I was going to remove the air con rad I have not taken it to be regarded as it’s now over heating since I changed the rad I noticed the car got to temp fine but would then creep past 80 ( normal running temp) to the next marker on the gauge (halfway between the middle and red) at that point the low coolant level flashes up. I waited for about ten mins before opening the water bottle but it was still under pressure and most of the water in the tank came out so topped it up and refilled drove it again and it over heaters any advice guys would be great
  2. Hi again ive changed the radiator on my V6 after putting up with a slight leak for the past year. works fine, well the radiator does but now the car overheated and the low coolant level light comes on despite there being no sign of leakage. My first thought was that the thermostat has failed in the shut position but after discovering that changing that would require a cam belt change I was hoping it was something else Any ideas welcomed
  3. Anyone know where the thermostat is located not in the place I expected it to be
  4. Decided to replace pipes so cut them off
  5. Also same assembly bottom right ive found a metal clip that slots it I’ve removed both of them very rusty and I think might have snapped as one side is longer than the other plastic fittings still not budging
  6. Hi guys Im stripping out my cooling system so dismantled my front end to get the radiator out at the top left hand corner of the rad is a pipe that splits into two the thicker pipe feeds from the engine and the thinner pipe feeds from the coolant tank they both feed into a plastic housing which attaches to the rad. I need to remove this to get the rad out but not sure how and don’t want to break it im guessing it just twists out but don’t want to break it in case I’m wrong any ideas????
  7. Thanks steve the guy I bought it from claimed they’d both been replaced but 123 bank leaks into the V and 456 bank leaks into the spark plug holes. I was going to just try and refit them but the price for Audi gaskets was actually lower than my local motor factors. I did ask Audi if they had a torque setting manual or something that listed what the settings were but the guy didn’t have a clue what I was on about- think I was just unlucky to get the wrong person on the phone that day
  8. Hi guys thought I’d update you all on progress with my issues As you all know from my battery charging paranoia post I bought a new battery ( for the record the old battery did charge up and starts the car as it always has done- but only holds 80% charge) Ive checked all fuses and relays and done system checks on both old and new batteries- all fine and no fault codes. So the only reason I can deduce from cutting out was due to flooded pistons I’m going to service it this week - new plugs and filters- and will swap over the coolant temp sensor too I need to replace the rocker cover gaskets so if anyone knows the torque settings for the 2.4 V6 I’d be grateful next job- wishbone bushes: anyone done them? Is it straight forward? Opened the roof for the first time this year- didn’t go very smoothly so have noticed a link to another forum post that looks useful thanks again guys
  9. Thanks Guys We’re on the same page chaps- I’ve decided to take the car off the road whilst I’m home and tackle all the outstanding jobs and the new ones I’ve come across like rocker cover gaskets and I think a power steering fluid leak. The MOT is due in July it has a raft of advisory’s that I should address. But I do think I can round off this thread by saying “yes” my battery was as all signs indicated- defective. Battery has now been replaced- going to have a poke about tomorrow and see if I can figure out why it cut out in the first place: Will update that in my original thread Thanks Guys
  10. Thanks Steve that’s it i will need the spare key though I’ve left that at work......
  11. You are right about the battery and it’s my biggest concern as from experience in the past with Jags- once they’ve flattened they’re never the same again and as I’ve pointed out this is an old battery so I’ve ordered a new one ( just £80) kids are off out for a walk with mum shortly so going to have a look at the connections as a bad one won’t do a good or bad battery any favours no longer any point of checking fuses as it’s started with no errors- no fault codes either which surprised me as we all know the battery is not 100%. Key fob is not working since I’ve got it going and I’ve forgotten the reset procedure- I’m sure someone has posted that on here so will do a search later ive found a brand new Audi branded coolant temp sensor in with the bag of parts that came with the car from its previous owner- bonus
  12. Ok I should be happy but I’m not! it started..... started as usual other than the ESP light coming on which is normal after you disconnect the battery running a tiny bit lumpy (it’s been stood for a week) I drove it the few hundred yards home (drove fine) let it stand and get to temp. Turned it off and left it to stand for ten mins and it started again as usual. Lots of moisture from the exhaust so held it at 2000rpm until the white spoke cleared. Runs fine Didn't want to take it for a run as I don’t quite trust it The battery does need replacing although it is still starting it Doesn’t answer the question as to why it cut out other than my first assumption of too much fuel in the cold cylinders Kids started playing up so had to come in but will still do all my checks tomorrow and still waiting for the spark plug socket to arrive in the post So stay tuned and I will update tomorrow
  13. Thank Gareth good advice i will admit I am stressing out over this and probably over thinking it. A wife and two kids and a mortgage on top of running a car that’s probably impractical. It’s difficult to justify these costs upon the family budget so thank you everyone for your patience and indulgence sadly Bude has very little in terms of businesses at the moment- it’s a remote seaside town that relies on tourism so I will stick it in the boot of my wife’s car and take a drive out. Power should be my first port of call and with the vast array of electrical components on these modern cars a weak battery is only going to stand in my way will report back later have a great Thursday every one
  14. Modern cars are an electrical nightmare sensors and switches and modules and relays- there is a part of me that longs for a Ford Cortina sadly my neatest Halfords is 40 miles away but I did think about that what I meant by the fourth or fifth rotation of the engine is Put the key in and turn it and the engine turns over two or three times then fires. Mine on the first turn of the key turns over four maybe five times before it fires you’re right though a good battery does make sense But- here is my issue: I can afford a new battery or a new Audi fuel pump or new Audi temp sensor but two of these would put a strain on the family finances in the face of a continued lock down. So by doing the above basic checks (and now check connectors) I’m hoping I can identify the cause of the problem. you’re on to something with the starter motor- I bought the car in June last year. About a week after I bought it I started but got distracted and didn’t let go of the key once it fired. The starter motor didn’t disengage and the car made an awful rattling noise until I quickly turned it off. Never had a problem with it since but the concern has always stayed with me. it’s rained today in sunny Bude so I’ve not been out to it (water and electrics don’t mix and I don’t want more problems) so new check list 1) check fuses relays and connections (starter and other connections) still need to look at plugs too 2) tank pump 3) temp sensor if no joy from above I appreciate this is a 17 year old car but it has been well looked after and has a fully stamped Audi service history and main dealer receipts for all the work done over its lifetime. if this had happened any other time of year I’d have just transported the car to Audi and told them to fix it having said that I now know more about this car than any other I’ve owned so I feel more confident for its future in my ownership thanks guys
  15. You are confirming my paranoia- in all honesty confirming what I already know its an old battery and it takes four or five turns of the engine before it fires (still fires first turn of the key but on the fifth engine rotation) The RAC charger just has two LED lights one to say charging and one to say full and the full light is still not lit. I was hoping that the as the charger was so crappy and my battery so big that’s why it wasn’t reaching full charge- just wishful thinking The reason I bought the charger is when I tried to jump start it from my wife’s car it seemed to cut off all power. I put a brick on the wife’s accelerator and got in the Audi and turned the key and got nothing not even dashboard warning lights until I disconnected them which concerned me ( yes I checked and double checked the leads were on correctly) i am going to try it again later checks to do when I have power: 1) fuses and relays and add a gallon of fuel in case my gauge is faulty 2) tank pump (I can hear the injection pump prime under the bonnet but there are that many things that fire up and him when you turn the key I’m going to lift the back seat 3) if a above ok coolant temp sensor- but I think the only way I can check that is by replacing if I do get charge in the battery and can connect jump leads to boost the power then hope would be that I have sufficient voltage to trick the car into thinking the battery is at 100% thanks again guys
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