Stevey Y

Hi its pretty tight in there I would definitely check the depth of the recess more than any thing to make sure the tyre width wont exceed the height of the floor cover a good quality rubber boot liner would take care of any chafing issues, my A6 was never even close to the amount of boxes and wires you have.
Steve.

Hi you will need a suitable diagnostics unit which has the facility to put the car in to rear lining change mode, this is used when you have the car jacked up and the rear wheels off with the car in gear so it wont roll, switch the handbrake off and engage rear lining change you will hear the motor retracting the pistons, then with the aid of a beefy screwdriver inserted between the old pads and disc gently push the calliper piston the last bit back into the calliper the pads should be moving free now so its just a case of undoing the two bolts that hold the middle of the calliper to the main carrier these are attached to the slider pins which have a rubber boot covering them and allow the calliper to self adjust to compensate for wear, once released from the slider its a case of pulling the calliper away making a note of which side the wear indicator wire sits, you will have to replace the wear indicator as well as the pads, the wear indicator has the plug end in a slot in a metal bracket which you have to twist to release it so you can separate the plug and fit the new wire, make sure you fit the new pads the way the old ones were fitted that makes sure the cut out for the new wear sensor is on the correct side, take photos as a reference, clean the runners for the pads on the carrier with a stout wire brush and then coat them with a thin smear of copper grease and then mount the pads on the carrier and gently push the calliper body over the new pads, you will have to push the slider pins in a little to allow this, you must always use new bolts to hold the calliper to the carrier but in saying that you can get away with using the old bolts provided you clean the threads and use a blob of blue thread lock, do not over tighten these bolts as they will snap, nipped up will suffice say 20nm, once its back together give the brake pedal a push then take the car out of lining change mode then engage handbrake and replace the wheels, don't think I forgot anything but claim poetic licence.
Steve.

Hi finest upgrade is high carbon discs that are drilled on the front and just plain high carbon discs on the rear pad wise either Brembo or ATE, the biggest bonus will be achieved by changing the brake fluid using Comma dot 4 ESP, I used drilled ATE front and plain ATE discs on the rear of my cab the fronts now need changing but they have done 70k, grooved discs just eat pads and get bits of crud stuck in the grooves which wear the discs at an accelerated rate with no real benefit in braking performance, on the other hand drilled discs cool quicker as well as dissipating water on the discs during wet weather twice as quickly.
Steve.

Hi visualise kilowatts, more chance of poking smoke up a cats backside with a knitting needle, sorry but these things are pre programmed to do what they want when they want, if the car is being charged and the ambient temperature drops it will automatically turn on the battery heater and that sucks energy, these cars are a hard thing to analyse as the variables are beyond most mortals comprehension, thats why I have always run diesels as the patterns are more predictable with the change of seasons, example, my old Euro 4 engine used to give more power when it was colder but less MPG, slight difference with a Euro 5 engine colder more power and only a small drop in mpg, Euro 6 less MPG during the summer as the engine is permanently trying to run cooler but has to fight the effects of warmer air on NOX production, ergo more adblue consumption, now winter more mpg less adblue consumption as the ECU loves cooler air, I  really wouldn't drive yourself nuts trying to second guess, it is what it is, welcome to new technology is it not wonderful, rule one if a salesmans lips move he is probably lying.
Steve.

Hi there should be a plastic grip brake under the bumper skin the lugs break off you can buy replacements on eBay which bolt or rivet onto the metal.
Steve.

Hi Steve Q did say it was similar not an exact video so room for poetic licence and imagination, worse ways it gives you a clue as to what to do.

Hi is that so many different types of bird or lugs?, if you strip the front scuttle panel that runs across the front of the radiator the part number should be on the top of the headlight, plumb that in and the fact you need a lug repair kit and based on the right part number a kit should appear.
Steve.

Hi its the calliper easy enough to replace and not to expensive, you will also need a new set of pads and a flexible hose as they collapse inside I had it on my car a few months ago.
Steve.

Hi you won't get a pedal on the first push as the pistons have been retracted hydraulically and need to return to their protocol positions, other than that bleed the system, you should always stamp on the pedal a couple of times after brake work to prime the system preferably before driving the car, no ESP could be you have disturbed a wheel sensor.
Steve.

Hi Vpower is excellent but expensive Shell/Esso standard fuel is good when used with an octane booster and is cheaper, don't go anywhere near E10 as on older cars its toxic !Removed!.
Steve.

Hi all tuning boxes work on the same principle they plug into the fuel rail and fool the car into thinking its running cold all the time therefore it runs richer this in turn allows over fuelling which washes the bores and the pistons, so in conclusion it looks like the remap is the better option as that controls the fuelling in the correct manner commensurate with throttle demand and not the boxes way of lets throw extra fuel in an see what happens.
Steve.

Hi if you take the top plastic cover off above the radiator which from memory is two plastic plunge clips that should give you a better view of it all, mark where each pulley touches the belt with tippex and do a drawing of each pulley and the way the belt travels either behind or over that particular pulley, good kit Dayco and INA are used as o.e., I wouldn't get involved with changing the alternator freewheel clutch in situ as they can be an absolute cow when the alternator is out of the car and on a bench these clutches normally fail way after the alternator and as most replacement alternators have a new clutch fitted its probably a fruitless and consuming exercise, only other tip is make sure you have the belt running true when you pull the tension pin out to release the spring tensioner as you will need Neanderthal strength to pull it back again if you get it wrong and remember to turn the engine over by hand a few turns to settle the ribs on the belt into their grooves, I have seen the new belts try and ride off of the crank pulley.
Steve.

Hi if your talking about the green menu I would steer well clear of it unless you are totally at home with the adjustments to be done as if you get it wrong you can FRY the MMI and oh boy is that an expensive hobby.

Hi they all do it not just Audis, when I was running Mondeos that was there favourite trick as well as spreading foam crumbs all over the carpet I used to go down the breakers and find a car that was picked clean and buy the passenger seat foam and use that as it had less wear, I think the new foam is probably your best bet and is easily fitted so that will be it for another 168k by which time I think you will be past caring LOL.
Steve.