Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Audi Owners Club (UK)

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.


AudiOwnerGroup

Members
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by AudiOwnerGroup

  1. Wow thats quite a thorough clean, I was charged £220 for quote 'DPF Chemical clean and road test', I will have to ring him to ask if ash levels were checked. Thanks Steve.
  2. Sorry I meant would he have tested for ASH levels too?
  3. Thanks for the reply Steve. The last mechanic did clean out the DPF and then tested it for soot levels he said all the readings were OK, would he have tested the soot levels too? I can call him and ask him.
  4. I am bumping this topic as 3 years down the line Stevey Y's prophetic words have come home to roost. I basically lived with the engine management light coming on and off. It wasn't persistent and only happened now and again. However, a few months ago it was getting more persistent so I took it to a fresh mechanic I hadn't used before. Told him the problem and he suggested the EGR delete, which I went ahead with. For the first couple of days it was fine, then next thing the DPF light came on (I had never seen this light until I had the EGR delete). He said the car needed a regeneration we tried to do it manually there and then but despite revving car at 2000 revs for 15 mins it wouldn't go out. Anyway I had to to to Derby a 2 hour drive on a trip. The DPF light was still on, but no other lights and the car was running fine (no limp mode). Drove all the way there, DPF light stayed on. On the way back the engine management light and the emission control lights both came on. I pulled into services stuck my OBD reader in, cleared them and I was on my way (DPF light still on). Another 1 hour later the DPF light went out also. Hooray! thought I'd cracked it, so much so went back to the mechanic and told him all lights were out, car running fine. This lasted about a week and DPF light came back again. Went back to the mechanic he suggested maybe a DPF delete, but I didn't want to go down that route. I then took it to another mechanic and explained in details everything to him, the remap, EGR delete etc.. he said he would test it, chemically clean out the DPF, service, changed all filters etc, which he did. Said he tested the dpf afterwards and there was no soot readings, he said all the results were clear, but the DPF light still hadn't gone out, he said run it for a few days see if it goes out. Which I did and it did go out, car running fine no lights again. But alas a few days later DPF light back on again. Then engine management and emissions lights. Took it back to him again he said he would ask the guy who does the remaps etc.. to look in the ECU to see if was something there. Didn't really come back with anything but he did say the EGR valve was slightly open so he blocked it off. Again, was ok for a couple of days but now all lights on again and in limp mode and can't clear the codes. So at a loss really, just went back on this forum and realised I had posted about it years ago, so thought I would resurrect it to see if anyone has any ideas. My mechanic has suggested a new EGR valve, would that then get rid of the DPF light? He did say something about the engine not getting to the right temperature to clear the DPF, but I thought he had cleaned that anyway, would it have built up again in such a short space of time? Not sure the guy who did the EGR delete knew the car had a stage 1 remap, would that have showed in the ECU? Presently car is in limp mode with all 3 lights on, the thing is, it runs well when its in normal mode, just don't know what to do next. Any advice greatly appreciated.
  5. Thanks for the detailed reply Steve. I see what you mean about the remapping variations, I was originally booked in to the have the remap done with the rolling road and proper testing but days before it was due to go in it had an unrelated problem with the car so I rang to rebook it and I was told I would lose the £50 deposit, to say I was miffed was an understatement, so I went for the mobile option, was cheaper I admit but presumed would suit my needs. My mechanic has quoted around £800 to have another EGR fitted due to the proximity of the valve in the engine, does this sound correct?
  6. Thanks Steve, the guy who remapped the car was a mobile set up, he just rocked up lifted the hood tinkered with his computer and it was all done in a few minutes. What are the are the specific problems I will encounter at a later date?
  7. Audi 2.0 TDI had a stage 1 remap in August last year. Just started having coil light flashing on dash and engine light come on. Come up as p0403 EGR code error. Mechanic has said can close/remove? EGR valve. How will that affect my already stage 1 remapped car, does it have to be remapped again afterwards? Would it be worth contacting the original company who remapped it first to see what they say?
  8. I've got a 2010 A3 2.0 TDI and it had the same fitted unit yours has, I replaced it with a Kenwood Multi Media system DMX 8020 DABS. It has apple carplay and voice control basically does everything while your driving, responds to voice commands etc..it comes with a surround which helps it fit into the space left by the original unit
  9. Just bought second hand S-line leather interior for my audi a3 2010 8p 2.0 tdi sports back. They are heated and have electric lumbar support, has anyone had experience of fitting these? I have bought the heater climate control switch panel for heated seats which will obviously replace my current switch panel. I also understand I need a seat heating harness wiring loom which goes from the heater control to the seats. I am currently in email exchanges with kufatec.com German firm regarding purchasing this. Its probably not something I want to take on myself, do you suggest using a car interior upholstery fitter, a normal car mechanic or an auto electrician? From what I can gather on YouTube fitting the actual seats doesnt look a problem, its just the heater and wiring that looks tricky. Any advice appreciated.
  10. That would explain it, thanks Gareth.
  11. Thanks Gareth, I will buy the correct battery, the main point of my post really though, is why the stop and start function isn't working.
  12. I have had 2010 A3 2.0 TDI since July and since then the stop and start function has never worked. It has a button on the controls to press to disable it, but it the function doesn't work even without the button being pressed. There is also a stop and search icon on the dash which comes up with a line through it indicating that its off. I have found out I need a new battery and the one fitted is a stop and start battery. Couple of questions, if the stop and start function isn't working can I just get a normal battery (a lot cheaper), also how do I get the the stop and start working if it is at all needed?
  13. Thanks for reply Clifford. I have had the car since July and never really noticed it until recently, I suppose since it has got a bit colder thats why I thought it might be related. I'll mention it to the mechanic on Friday when it goes in for another problem.
  14. I have had this problem quite recently. I have a 2010 Audi Sportsback 2.0 TDI and when the car is first started after being stood all night it seems very sluggish for the 5 mins whilst driving. There seems to be a lack of acceleration, after about 5 mins when it warms up it seems OK. Is this a common problem and anything to worry about and will it get worse over time? Any advice appreciated.
  15. Just an update: Had the full service done and I have booked the cambelt change with my local garage to be done a week on Tuesday. Thanks for the help, Gareth.
  16. Thanks again Gareth. I think we can take it as read that there is no evidence that the cambelt has been done, other than a tick in the box on the 3/7/18 service (no stamp or evidence of who did it). This was (supposedly) done at 59k miles. The previous service record entry also has toothed belt ticked (again with no stamp), this was recorded at 55k miles in July 2017. Prior to those 2 entries, the toothed belt has also been changed (allegedly) in 2014 at 36k miles. There is actually no stamped service between 06/13 until 07/18, boxes filled in and ticked but no stamp or invoices, so dodgy I think. Bit annoyed didn't spot this at the point of sale, but didn't notice no stamps 😒 Got an invoice for the last Halfords service, it just says interim service and a a car service checklist is with it where 50 points have been ticked. One of the ticks is against 'check for timing (cambelt) replacement interval and report if replacement due according to mileage or age', so it looks like it was checked. What is the 'shelf life' of a cambelt anyway? Re: haldex and oil, I am just going from the Audi service schedule book service record where Haldex: oil is one of the entries under 'additional work'. No, mine is not a Quattro. I suppose it's all a bit 'after the horse has bolted' and these questions should have been asked BEFORE I bought the car, but hey ho, you live and learn. As regards ATS, are they really that bad? I must admit they have done my last 3 mot's on my last car, and also couple of small repairs and tyre changes and I have found their service very good. They haven't found unnecessary work, and I have found the staff to be polite and helpful. The car is 10 years old, so if I can get another decent 5 years out of it I will be more than happy. I don't really want to spend huge sums on servicing. I plan to do about 7000 miles a year so a service to reflect that suits me fine. Thanks again Gareth for your time in answering my questions. Kind Regards, Chris
  17. Thanks Gareth, The brake fluid appears to have last been changed 03/07/18, although this is dubious as the service book hasn't actually got a stamp, it has just been filled in (just noticed). Not sure about the cambelt, is toothed belt the same thing? If so this is ticked as done at the same time. When you say use a local garage so I can dictate the parts used, how do I know myself which parts I need? Do you mean genuine Audi parts from the Audi dealer? Obviously this will increase the cost? It shows Haldex: oil in the service record, I take it this is the recommended oil. Also, its previous interim service was conducted at Halfords. Sorry for all the questions, but total newbie here when it comes to the complexities of Audi car servicing. Kind Regards Chris
  18. Thanks for the reply Gareth. It was last serviced in July 2019, where it had an interim service. It has FSH prior to that. As it is a new car to me I am happy to pay for a full service this time as I would like to know if there are any major problems. I intend having the service done at ATS which is near me. They are quoting £195 for the full service, which for me is expensive but if it gives me the peace of mind that the car is good then it will be worth it.
  19. is this plate still available?
  20. Hi all, newbie poster here just saying hello🙋‍♀️ I am the proud owner of a used Audi A3 2.0 TDI. Very nice looking car and my first venture into the world of Audi. Previously have owned a couple of used BMW's and they were both great cars. First question though, service spanner has come up on the dash, so service required. How much could I be expected to pay for a full service? The car is 10 years old and had done 77,000 miles. Thanks




Background Picker
Customize Layout

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.