Sheffieldyorky

Hi there

As the title says "Need help with Junsun Media Centre" running Android 12.0 I have an Android phone.

I have installed this media centre and connected up the following hardware items ;

1) ADAS DVR Front Camera
2) Rear camera
3) GPS
4) DAB system box

1) ADAS DVR Front Camera, How do I get to that section on my unit

2) The rear camera gets its power when the reverse gear/light is operated but does not show on the centre, how do I get to that section on my unit.

3) GPS is working but I can't get to that section on my unit.

4) The DAB system box is connected (as per the instructions supplied) but on automatic scanning, I do not get any radio stations.

The instructions that were supplied are very vague, for example the two USB ports allow you to fit either way up or down.

The English translation leaves a lot to be desired

Audi A3 1.9Tdi 3-door hatchback March 2009 making it an 8P1

Hi there peeps

As the title says "Does anybody know where this fits on my passenger seat".

I had cause to take out the passenger seat of my vehicle to find the source of a water leak which had accumulated in the passenger footwell, this item (seen in the images) fell onto the floor.

I have tried Google images with "audi a3 seat components 8p1" and can not see anything that resembles it whatsoever.

If a member supplied an image of a passenger seat frame with an arrow pointing to the item I would be pleased.

It measures 135mm x 12mm, composed of metal & plastic, finally, it is spring-loaded, on the image "seat unit 2" left-hand side is the spring's location.

Panic over I have just found out the price of the new type, plus the MOT etc. etc. so I am going to re-fit my old bulbs😃

Hey there guys & gals

I have a problem which I sincerely hope a UK member will be able to help me out.

I have an Audi A3 1.9Tdi 2009 3-door hatchback making it an 8P1.

I need some advice on an upgrade for my headlights that will meet the current U.K M.O.T testing standards as laid down by the D.V.S.A.

This is their link

> 

Aftermarket HID Headlamps - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk)

> 

I have LED headlights and main beam in at the moment but they fail because the M.O.T tester can NOT get a pattern.

The tester has told me that I only need to change the headlight bulbs the LED main beams are O.K.

1 hour ago, cliffcoggin said:

Tony.

The Halfords report is inadequate in that is performing a simple voltage test under a meagre load. What is needed is a deep discharge test which simulates the heavy load of about 200 amps imposed by the starter motor, rather than the dozen or so amps used by the lights and screen heater.

Halfords are also wrong in their comments about battery coding. To my certain knowledge A3s from at least 2007 need to have the battery coded in order for the car's electronics to work correctly. It is even possible, though I am less sure of this point, that your repeated disconnection of the battery is causing the coding to be lost. It would need somebody more knowledgable than me to clarify that.

Whatever the cause of the problem, the symptoms you presented of the battery being unable to hold a charge are classic properties of a faulty battery, hence my conclusion that you need a new one. I suggest you get the car tested by somebody more competant than the clowns at Halfords. If and when you get a new battery get a decent one, have it coded, and never disconnect it without good cause.

On 5/19/2024 at 8:41 AM, Magnet said:

 

Hi Cliff

Please see this from another Forum VW Audi Forum

Thread title

Does 2011 A3 need battery coding?

31satara 
Hopefully a short one. A freind has a 2011 2l petrol A3. In Febuary his battery (original) was completely flat and he bought a new Bosch S4 (74Ah) which I fitted for him. Yesterday it wouldn't start or turn over. When I went to look today the battery was completly flat, 4V off-load. Being retired he doesn't use the car much - maybe once a week a few miles to the shops and back. Normally I would suspect that he's just not using it enough, but it seemed odd that the battery was so flat (unless he has left things on, but he says not). He then said he had been looking on the internet and some cars need new batteries coding - can anyone tell me if this model does need replacement battery coding? Thanks

31satara
I don't think it is the 2l, rather the 1.8tfsi

philipharmes 
It's usually only cars fitted with stop/start systems ( and therefore AGM or EFB batteries ) that need coding.

Fexo 
Yes, I fitted an S4 to my wife's old A4 Avant and no coding was needed. When the battery on my A3 with stop/start had to be replaced, that did need coding.

Hold on: my car is a late 2011 A3 2 litre TDI and has stop/start. Are you sure about the battery? The garage was going to fit a standard S4 on mine until they realised it had stop/start which requires a much more powerful (and expensive) one.

31satara
Thanks for the info. It doesn't have stop/start nor the multi-media display which seem to be pointers towards coding required. However, the owners manual that came with it states coding is needed when replacing the battery. I connected it to VCDS and was able to go through the coding proceedure without issue. Hopefully that will improve it a bit, but I'm still not convinced it will make much difference - I think he just needs to use it more (it's only got 35k on the clock). There must be loads of similar cars that have had replacement batteries fitted without being recoded.

Texmilb 
I have a 2011 2.0 TDI with stop/start and when my battery died 4 years ago I just fitted a replacement from Halfords and has been no problem ever since.

The spelling mistakes are not of my doing.

So I draw this conclusion, my A3 does not have a start facility, I will now leave the battery cables in situ and I will plug my Audi Chorus back in, the only thing that I will do is leave the bonnet unlatched, so if I say IF it fails to start then I will be able to jump-start it.

To be honest I can see that the alternator is charging the battery, but the first time that it fails to start then I will let you guys know, also I will update you as to how many days since the engine was running, so I will class this as 20th May DAY 1

On 5/19/2024 at 8:41 AM, Magnet said:

Good afternoon one & all

As promised I have been to Halfords and have attached their evidence.

The “Starter test” “Good battery”

He told me that the CCA was 12.4

13.87v no load

Then with a load ( rear screen, light’s main beam etc. fan ) 13.13v

And on the Halfords sheet at the bottom “Charging test, No problems”

His words were “I can’t understand what the problem is”

I purchased this battery locally on January this year.

I asked him about coding, his words “coding is mainly used for vehicle’s with stop start facility.”

I spent 30 minutes chatting about the test I also explained about the crackle on removing the positive, his words “I have no idea”

5 hours ago, Magnet said:

Hello Tony,

With any persisting electrical issue, it’s always worth getting the battery efficiency measured to establish whether it’s a contributory cause or not. 
Perhaps you could let us know whether you acquired the car with that battery, or if you bought it during your (how long?) ownership. 
Way forward:- take the car to an Halfords store and ask them to check the battery’s efficiency for you. Get the alternator output checked at the same time. 
If the battery is found to be sub standard, you may want to come back to us, before you buy a replacement from Halfords. 
My take on it, for what it’s worth:- It wouldn’t surprise me that the battery you have is ‘reconditioned reject’ bought because it was cheap. 
Please come back with the outcome - as Cliff says. 
 

Right I am going try and write this again, the first session disappeared when I tried to “copy and paste” some text, so this time I writing it all in a word document.

What I previously wrote was something like this.

My vehicle was purchased 16^th January 2020

I think it only fair I give you a full rundown of what I have done and had done to the car up to date, what will be missing are the dates, sorry.

These are not in any order but just as I remembered them

New battery (1)

New driver’s door lock

Bonnet resprayed ( I know it has nothing to do with starting or electrical problems )

Replaced the wiring harness driver’s door

New key and chip programmed at my home

Installed LED lighting all round (no capacitor’s needed)

Removed Audi Chorus

New clutch with “Dual mass flywheel”

New battery (2) which was returned due to buckled plates

New battery(3) purchased 15^th January 2024

The data for this battery is 72Ah 650CCA which is way more than advertised.

I had been removing the positive lead when new battery (2) was on the car, I don’t do it now, BUT I still get the crackle when I am  putting on either negative or positive lead.

As the text from Cliff, “PS. Don't forget to have the new battery coded to the car or it won't work,”

On the internet  [www.htsaves.com ] I find the following text

How Long Does it Take to Leave the Battery Disconnected to Reset the Car’s Computer?

To reset your car’s computer, you should disconnect the battery and allow time for the residual energy in the electrical circuits to dissipate completely. Typically, this process can take anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour. This ensures that all the stored electricity is cleared out of the system.

Old battery (2) off new battery (3) on changeover was minutes nowhere near 15 minutes, the battery ( 3) had already been charged up awaiting my arrival.

I have just had a thought with battery (2) it was left off overnight and sometimes more than a day But when I reconnected the battery I got the crackle but the engine would start and run without a problem.

With battery (3) I do not disconnect either lead, I’ll just jump in the car go to the roundabout and back total maybe 2 miles, pull it up onto the drive switch off and go inside.

I am now booked in @ Halfords for a “battery  efficiency” check 09:30 Monday morning.

I will appraise you of the results and I will upload any documentation should I get it.

Till tomorrow then

Tony

P.S I know that I have included certain items that are not electrical related

12 minutes ago, cliffcoggin said:

Tony.

What's the point of showing us pictures of a battery? I'm sure we all know what batteries look like.

The only thing I ask is what you perceive to be a problem with your car? It has already been explained that you do not have any excessive drain on the battery, so why do you continue this topic? Is there something else that either you have not explained or we have missed in your introduction?

Sorry Cliff

The problem with the car is that it is left not used for 5 - 6 days If fails to start OR is very sluggish and refuses to start.

I have not had my Audi Chorus plugged in since then.

Previously I was disconnecting the positive lead and then in the morning I would reconnect it and get a slight crackle between the positive lead and the battery.

If I know that I am not going to be using the car for a while, i.e. early February I went to Turkey for surgery so I knew I would be away for a while, so it was disconnected, I came home and reconnected the battery obviously started fine.

On 5/15/2024 at 6:05 PM, cliffcoggin said:

 

Hi there Clifford  & Gareth

Many thanks for contributing to my thread.

I think that the best solution is for me to show you the battery etc.

12v 72Ah 650CCA

I have also located the website

The battery website

I will now let you ask questions and I will do my best to answer them.

On 5/15/2024 at 6:05 PM, cliffcoggin said:

Tony.

How large is this drain from the battery? A few dozen miiliamps is normal for the alarm system. If it is significantly larger look for non-standard pieces of electrical equipment such as satnavs, radios, dashcams etc. and ensure they have been connected to an ignition switched power supply. It is too easy to connect such devices to a permanently live supply.

Hi there Cliff

At long last, I was able to get around to the car (stacked up with laptop repairs) and started to test.

First thing I latched the driver's door and did the same to the bonnet catch.

Waited about 30-40 minutes, and sleep time varies from Forum to Forum, so I took an average, some people say 2 hours some say 4 or 5 minutes, go figure.

I used the Red lead on my DVM on the 10a scale connected to the battery NEG post & the Black DVM lead to the Negative lead from the vehicle, as seen in the image.

What I found was 0.06mA see image, I removed the 50a fuse and it disappeared see image.

I have tried to find out what this 50a fuse is protecting but failed miserably.

Oh by the way my radio is not fitted.

So I look to you guys & gals to come up with a solution.

As a final note when I connected the Negative lead from the vehicle there was a slight crackle similar to what I get on re-attaching the positive lead from the vehicle.

Hi, there peeps,

I have an A3 1.9Tdi 3-door hatchback from March 2009 making it a 8P1.

>

As the title states I have had this drain for some time now and have been unable to find the source despite the usual testing methods, i.e. digital meter on the mA range with the leads in the correct orientation, any way to cut a long story, I took out all the under dashboard cover's, steering column, glovebox etc. in a search for an obvious short etc.

At this time I was disconnecting the positive lead from the battery and I manually locked the car.

At the same time as this was happening, I purchased a new Junsun multi-media entertainment system ( I was awaiting arrival from China) to replace my Audi Chorus which I took out, it then started raining due to various other circumstances including the weather I was not able to get back to the car.

Finally, I then started looking for any signs of a fault using my HEX-V2 dongle, there were several fault codes but NONE that related to what I was experiencing.

I don't know what made me do it but I checked the multiplug for the Audi Chorus (the radio is in the house) for any signs of a supply and I found it in the multiplug, at this stage, there was no key in the ignition and both doors were shut, while sat in the car I pressed the remote to lock the car and waited and waited and I still had a supply from the multiplug.

So after a bit of research etc. I found the fuses are located in the engine bay # 8 and 9 I proved this by removing them and checking the multiplug supply it has now gone, so reinstated said fuses now back to square one.

First thing if I go out to the car in the morning take off the positive lead and then tap the positive battery post I get a very small spark which tells me something is energized but take out the fuse and there is no spark, I forgot to mention the door and the bonnet catch have been put into the lock position and I have to wait about an hour to start this procedure (sorry cart before the horse).

 What is really puzzling me is why is the multiplug still live even when the car has gone to sleep etc.

Hi there Cliff

As a beta tester you have to answer some fairly technical question's and then sign an N.D.A first and foremost then afterwards you are sent a disc and instructed to install it onto a standalone machine i.e. laptop preferred the same for both Windows 95 &  eventually 98

Hi there Cliff

Thanks for your response  I have an A3 1.9Tdi 3 door hatchback March 2009 8P1 NOT an A3 (8V)

Regarding MSN I was a Microsoft beta tester Windows 95 & Windows 98 I never got to hear about spyware.

I am still a registered "Windows Insider"  

Hi there Cliff

Thanks for your response BUT your link takes me to a website who I have never heard of once there I found that the results were for Audi A3 wiring diagram on YouTube
Audi A3 (8V) not what I was looking for.

AUDI A3 Wiring Diagrams - Car Electrical Wiring Diagram

Did not have what I was looking for it and to muddy the waters it had schematics thrown in for good measure.

Clicking on another supposed Audi A3 link I get

404. That’s an error. The requested URL was not found on this server. That’s all we know.
 

Wiring diagram showing various circuits

I am seeking wiring diagram/diagrams showing various circuits and their corresponding wiring colours

1.            Electric windows on both sides

2.            Electric door mirrors

3.            Door power lock/unlock circuit

4.            Audi factory-fitted alarm

While I have your attention I would also like the various locations of all the modules in the car

A3 1.9Tdi 3-door hatchback March 2009 8P1

As this thread will be viewed by people with left-hand drive vehicles I would prefer right-hand drive details, please.

I do not want a schematic

Hi there guys & gals

Here is an easy one for you as the title says "A3 1.9Tdi 8P1 2009 RHD BLS Engine" internal fuse box wanted please upload a clear image showing all the fuses in their respective colours

I have looked online and there are quite a few but either they don't show the whole fuse box or it is a wrong model (i.e. petrol or 2.0 etc.) 

> > > >

Oh while I have your attention I am searching for an engine cover, not just any old engine cover but one like this seen in the attached image :-

Please notice how the engine oil filler hole is on the left hand side

I look forward to the response

Tony

I had the same problem, but I have jumped the gun a bit.

I have 8P1 2009 A3 Hatchback·1.9 TDI Hatchback·1896ccm 105HP 77KW and the battery was beginning to give up the ghost so I purchased a new battery.

The old battery measured 12.27v (dead) the new battery 12.45 and then I started the car, no problems.

Then all the warning lights on the dash came on :- glow plug light, handbrake, seat belt light, I'm still moving at this stage I just could not understand it.

Got out of the car locked it and went and did some more shopping, came back unlocked the car started it up and glow plugs, handbrake, seat belt, etc came on but this time no speedo or rev counter, now I really am beginning to get worried in case it just died and I'm nowhere near home, but I made it home without a problem.

Got on the T'inernet and started searching and found all sorts of various answers.

I then thought well if the car is in the driveway I am not going to be caught out by non running etc. so I unlocked the car with the key fob and turned the key and waited expectantly and it started up and the glow plug light, handbrake, seat belt light and rev counter all working as normal so I decided to take it for a short drive. I clicked in my seat belt the light went out, this further impressed me, drove out of my driveway and up to the top of my road 136m turned round and back speedo came on and stayed on. Parked in my driveway and could not believe my luck.

I spoke to a friend of mine and he told me that just by starting the car again the ECU will have reset itself.

Happy days

On 1/3/2021 at 5:30 PM, Laurie said:

Thanks for your reply Tony, I have looked at a 1.9 TDI and understand them to be very good, proven and reliable engines, I just found it to be a little underpowered, also looked at quite a few 2.0 TDI's, which I did prefer, but I hear about a lot of potential problems with the oil pump on these engines... of course, with a car of this kind of age there is always going g to be a degree of risk. 

 

Cheers

 

Laurie

Hi Laurie

Well there you have it with regards to the 2.0Tdi oil leak.

Please see the video posted by "Steve Q"  with reference to 2.0Tdi 

Regards

Tony

Hi there

Very quickly DO NOT let the "speaker stripe" and the "speaker non stripe" end touch even for a second, you will blow the board, NOT the fuse.💀

Far better to stick a bit of insulation tape on both ends till you are ready to fit insulated crimp terminals.

Hi there Laurie

If you have not yet purchased the petrol version I would respectfully suggest NO.

Please see my post above yours ;

I would suggest getting the A3 "8P1 [2003-2012] Hatchback·1.9 TDI Hatchback·1896ccm 105HP 77KW"

Audi A3 Tfsi vs Audi A3 1.9Tdi

BUT the most important thing is what you feel when you take it for a test drive the same goes for the 1.9Tdi

Please don't let the salesman bamboozle you with all sorts of numbers.

Do your research first 

Reference the oil leak you might be interested in this thread

Audi A3 Tfsi oil leak

Good luck please post a photo of your purchase as and when.

Tony

Well if I had seen that door wiring kit I would have been over the moon.

I did say that you needed a toolbox to sit on a patience.

as regards bulk etc I did say that you might need some slack, but with a wiring kit like that should be done in a morning.

Go to eBay and insert "audi obd2 scanner" for get your £150.

I didn't pay that for my Foxwell NT 510 Elite

I would suggest getting the A3 "8P1 [2003-2012] Hatchback·1.9 TDI Hatchback·1896ccm 105HP 77KW"

They are a sought after vehicle, I think that it is something to do with the £30.00 per year road tax but I maybe wrong  😂

Mine is a 2009 plate 97,000 miles £2,100 purchased in January 2020 and tested till mid November

13 hours ago, ConcreteDonkey said:

I've had my 2007 A3 for around 10 years. Around a year ago the remote central locking stopped working. Tried replacement batteries but no joy getting resolved. Decided not to fix it further as it still opened from inside once the ignition is switched on. More recently though, the front passenger door will not open with the rest of the doors and must be done manually from inside the car before it can be opened. 

The final straw is the boot. It became intermittent opening and as of the last week it has now just stopped entirely. Again, manual release does work. 

I tried an OBD scanner and there were no fault codes. Hope someone can offer some suggestions as I love the car but it won't pass MOT next year if I can't resolve this. 

 

Hi there Nathaniel

I had similar problems, driver’s door related and the tailgate.

Your passenger door

If you have various a Torx screwdrivers in various sizes or Torx bits a scraper and or a Trim removal tool., small flat blade screwdriver, a multimeter.

Something to sit on i.e. a small toolbox (you will need it) an LED torch and finally plenty of patience, you will need that to.

Passenger door

Handbrake ON Ignition off and key removed from the ignition, if you want some music I suggest turning on your i-player or something else but NOT car related.

First thing first

Double click the remote to hear whether you hear the remote working or not, if not proceed as follows.

Start by taking off the interior door trim (otherwise known as the door card)

With a good torch have a look at the “door actuator mechanism” see image to make sure it is working OK.

Unclip the various cables etc. you will see what to unclip etc.

With the door card safely out of the way and the door fully open look at the rubber gaiter from the door to the bodywork.

This is the tricky bit peal back the gaiter my might need to make some slack so reach inside the door cavity and adjust cables as necessary once the gaiter is pulled apart I fully expect you will see one or more wires corroded OR broken, hence no central locking but can open from the inside because that works on a wire system.

If you door a search for “Repair Kit Audi A3 8P Door Pillar Wiring Harness Loom” see image you will find a new plug with all the wires, I would advise NOT to try and repair / solder because you might be defeating the object.

I take it that you have checked the fuses etc.

From what I am reading I think that you might have to do it twice. Passenger and drivers doors.

On the tailgate, remove the trim and unplug the supply lead and check that you are getting a supply, I would expect that you have checked both fuse boxes (under the bonnet and driver’s side dash next to door pillar.

From what you are saying that sounds like a wire that is broken and the two ends are sometimes rubbing together.

Locate the break join together.

Assemble it all back together and test before putting the trim back on.

I find it bad practice to fit second hand parts in this kind of an area.

eBay first and then Amazon

Good luck if you need any more advice send me a P.M or post here.

Tony

Well as it says this is my intro.

I am a retired Electro Mechanical Engineer

Take one of my particular interests, I repair laptops, so much so that I have purchased an Audi A3 1.9Tdi based on the turnover, before you say it NO I do not charge a lot.
As an example for a broken screen I will charge £20.00 ( $26.00 ) plus the cost the screen, I will turn that round within the morning once the screen arrives, fully tested and working, complete with a 12 months guarantee.
I undertake this to keep my brain happy.

Before Covid 19 reared its ugly head I undertook voluntary I.T support at the local community centre

The other interest is Formula One Lewis Hamilton fan

Lastly the other interest is scuba diving, I been doing this since 1964 and I have dived just about every corner of the planet.

I am P.A.D.I qualified