Ianswebb

17 minutes ago, Magnet said:

Hello Ian,

Apologies for a varying opinion, but in my book, any evidence of mayo under the oil filler cap isn’t necessarily/generally  a ‘solid  indicator’ of HGF. If everyone who had mayo under their oil filler cap were to renew head gaskets, the world would quickly run out of head gaskets! 
Some mayo is almost inevitable due to condensation usually associated with short runs/non motorway running. Yes, excessive mayo can be associated with HGF but is certainly not a confirmation of it.

Apologies, but don’t pull anything apart, based on some mayo under an oil filler cap.

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

I'm all up for varying opinions. Differing opinions and ideas could very well find the solution.

I leaned on previous experience regarding the 'mayo under the oil filler v head gasket failure'. which in my case was no way near excessive, but that is by-the-by.

Ian  

Ok, thought it was the same photo. 

That seems very odd, I'd hazard a guess and say they have broken due to metal fatigue. I'd be taking them/it straight back to where I got it from.

Ian

Have both turbos broken in the exact same place?

Ian

Admittedly I was late to the party too. Alas, we tried.

Ian

Nearest Audi dealer can tell you that, and they will more than likely have ample on the shelf. Personally I'd recommend genuine oil over others, if for no other reason than piece of mind.

I found there wasn't a great deal of difference in price either, couple of quid more expensive a litre maybe.

Ian

Could check the underside of the oil filler cap for a mayo type substance, if present then that is a fairly solid indicator for head gasket failure. Also, presuming your engine is inline as is mine, I believe there is a plastic elbow that exits the rear of the engine block that's prone to failure.

Ian

Definitely calling for a scan by either VCDS or OBDeleven. Sounds like there is more than one issue there.

Ian

I've got a lunched rear window switch to change, so looks like I'll be popping the door card off for that. I'll be sure to get some of those clips on order... You should be earning a commission🤣

Ian 

Smashing write up, as always.🤙

Finally managed to force the cooling fans. Went in to the 'Engine 01' module and 'Output Test' then chose 'Sequential'. Went through about half a dozen other tests for things like the fuel pump, various actuators and other stuff I don't really want to be toying with, then I came across the cooling fans.

Seems that you can only run the test once before having to come out of the module and going back in again.

Ian

Haha! turns out my knowledge of Audi trim levels is cack!.. thought the S-line was a top spec for Auto's, and the R-line being a same but for manuals😬

I that case, I don't think fuse 31 is going to be any help. Apologies for leading you up the garden path.

Ian

I see you have an auto... next time it goofs around, see if the 'press break' light on the selector is operating as it should be. I had an intermittent starting issue and it turned out to be a dodgy connection on fuse 31.

Ian

The snub mount should be centred in the shroud as it doesn't bear weight. It's there to limit vertical movement.

The grub looks a bit of alright too! 😋

Looking like a new pin.

Fingers crossed it comes back peachy.

23 hours ago, Bal B7 said:

Is yours having similar issues as mine? 

 

Mine started out feeling as if it was developing a slight miss fire before blowing oil out from the passenger side of the engine.

I'd recommend checking the quality of the coolant and if possible a quick look at the gearbox oil.

Fortunately I haven't got any symptoms, but I am a big fan of the CVT and maybe over sensitive to it's fragility.

I need to do a coolant change anyway as it looks like my thermostat is knackered (engine temps doesn't get much above 70c when on the move), although I'm nervous of changing right now as I'm not entirely sure the cooling fans are operating. I'll be sure to use the correct 'G' number though.

Gearbox oil is genuine Audi stuff as I didn't feel comfortable using anything else, which I changed about 4,000 miles ago. 

Ian

Can't guarantee that yours will be on there, mine doesn't have the sensors. Worth having a look though, a very crude search just now found they do appear to stock them. You're looking at upward of £100, maybe closer to £200 each.

Ian 

On 5/7/2022 at 7:08 PM, Stevey Y said:

Hi Pros, smoother clutch and never having to buy a flywheel again, Cons it will shred the rubber mounted crank damper in record time, possible crank whip which causes big end failure, worse case scenario the crankshaft shatters due to harmonic resonance because at about 2800 rpm the resonance will be at maximum with no DMF to smooth the torque curve it could be terminal. I have witnessed this first hand over the last eighteen years when my fellow cabbies have thought it was a good idea, anyone that tells you this is rubbish is uninformed, think about it, why would the manufacturer spend extra money on a hardened steel flywheel with an intricate float mechanism when they could cut their costs dramatically by fitting a machined one piece unit.

Steve. 

Nailed it again!

On 5/5/2022 at 7:26 PM, Stevey Y said:

Hi sorry mate its a full clutch four piece DMF, Driven plate, and slave cylinder best given attention soon as when the DMF starts really juddering eventually it locks over and you can't get at the bolts to release the DMF from the crank so you have to go at it with a diamond disc cutter to get it off, good news is your clutch kit will be a hell of a lot cheaper than the later models and don't be tempted by the solid flywheel conversion as that puts excess strain on the crank damper at the front end and ruins them in record time, worse case scenario the new solid flywheel is capable of breaking your crank through Harmonic Resonance at about 2800rpm thats why old diesels were limited to 2500rpm to stop this happening, with the advent of DMF and a rubber mounted crank pulley they are able to rev higher giving the manufacturers a wider rev range to tune the torque curve.

Steve.

That's a bang on response if I ever saw one. 

This has certainly peeked my interest. Although I have no symptoms, off the back of this I'm going to do some digging around and clue myself up. 

Anyone know if Elsawin is still the workshop go to, or am I 10 or so years behind?

Ian  

I've not long picked up a set of mounts for mine. Got them from Autodoc.. circa £50 each plus postage.

Ian 

I too have the Navigation Plus unit. Mine came with this installed..

I'm unsure if this actually supports bluetooth, but it has the AUX IN cable which is good enough for me as my phone has a headphone jack. Although this does render the multichanger in the glove box useless.

Unsure if they are readily available.

Ian 

I've used AutoDoc twice quite recently. The website is pretty good, they usually show a number of different manufacturers and also show OE part numbers, so you can nail down compatibility.

There are drawbacks though.. Parts come from Germany and take around a week to arrive and postage is £8.75 unless you are doing over £150 the its free. In my area they use ParcelForce to deliver and it appears they don't like to leave it with neighbours or in any safe place, so be sure to get it delivered when/where someone is about!

Hope this helps,

Ian

If the juddering is felt more through the seats than steering wheel wobble, have a good check of the inner CV joints.

My off-side one was lunched, anything over 40mph would damn near rattle your teeth out. Changed that and the engine mounts and it was like driving on silk.

Ian