BigTownz

11 minutes ago, Faisal Farooq said:

@BigTownz did you ever get to the bottom of this issue? I have similar symptoms so thought I'd ask 

Hi Faisal, regrettably with all the fantastic help I had here from stevey, no I didn't.

I poured money into it changing each sensor, changing turber, EGR cooler etc and it was never right again. In the end I got rid and went back to BMW 😅

But what I will say is because I had the DPF removed and remapped, this could of been hiding the true fault. But I didn't have the heart to put more money into it.

Sorry I couldn't help further 

So, I fitted the new glow plug with pressure sensor today.  Cleared all the codes and re-adapted the senor and other sensors in the loop. Same issue persists, no power, wont drive above 30mph and kicking out lots of black smoke. Any thoughts?

Just to add, VCDS is no longer picking any error codes up

🙈

1 minute ago, Stevey Y said:

PS don't forget to re adapt it on VCDS before running.

Thanks, I didnt know I had to....

cheers, I have found a brand new genuine one still sealed etc on eBay for £30, but its part number 059 905 061 H, I think im going to order this one 🙂

Hi Stevey, sorry I've been away hence the late reply. I have just googled the numbers provided and they say its for the Audi A3. I presume these parts are the same across the range of diesels? I will get the part anyway and feedback to you

I hope its not the loom as I dont want to have to go down that avenue. Would you happen to know the part number for the glow plug?

Thanks for the info Stevey, weird thing is vcds still reads it and obtains a pressure reading of 39bar when idling when unplugged the bar reading is -1.000 and does not fluctuate (which is expected). The second picture is the error given if I idle the engine with the bank 3 sensor unplugged, but when the sensor is plugged in it gives the implausible error??? Why is this? And can this sensor also cause the power loss and black smoke?

So, new part came today. Ive fitted and the error persists. But now a new error code has popped up

8809 - cylinder 3 interal preasure sensor

P13D6 00 [101].

😡

Any advice please? 

Cheers Stevey, makes perfect sense. And would you agree the sensor stating its -33 degrees is the issue for power loss and black soot? Im assuming its causing the air and fuel mixure to be wrong and the car is trying to increase its temperature to match the other sensors values as they should be the same give or take a few degrees?

***Edited due to typos and wrong information being showing in original diagram***

Right, sorry for flooding the thread, but I think ive cracked it.

I started by disconnecting 1 sensor at a time and reading with vcds to see what error it throws up.

Disconnected bank 1 sensor 1, no error shown

Disconnect bank 1 sensor 2 - error shown P2031 00 [167].

This helped me determine exactly which sensor was which on the digram.

For anyone that needs to know part numbers

Bank 1 Sensor 1 part number is - 04L906088DR

Bank 1 Sensor 2 part number is - 4G0906088K

Theres actually 4 sensors on my car and when watching the values of them all it was clear Sensor 1 was the culprit due to the difference in temperature sensing. It was reading -35 degrees whilst the others were reading 130+. 

Whilst the issue isnt resloved, I have ordered the part and will update you once fitted.

Just to add, i have taken this sensor off and it was absolutely caked with soot. I have cleaned it with some carb cleaner, cleared the code and cleared the sensors learned values. Drove round the block and no difference made (still no power and lots of black soot out the back), although the code hasnt popped back up.

I forgot to mention, if you remember my previous post over a year ago, i had issues where I ended up spending over £2000 to have it repaired and had the dpf removed. Egr and adblu has also been coded out.

Im actually thinking this is the wrong sensor as all readups say its either on or pre turbo housing. Problem is I cant even find the turbo and really dont want to start stripping her down

Thanks stevey, am I right thinking this is the G235 sensor?

9 minutes ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi I have to go down and see my mechanic tomorrow and I will see where that one pops up on his autodata though I am pretty sure its one of the three on top of the engine between the cat and turbo.

Steve.

Perfect steve, thanks. I hope its there too. Theres three together and one before them. Im hoping its the one on its own

Hi fellow audi'ers. Im currently experiencing power loss and alot of black smoke out the back of my audi (when I put my foot down). I have read it with VCDS and the following error is visible:

8187 - Exhaust Gas Temp Bank 1 Sensor 1 (G235)

P2080 00 [101] implausible signal.

Can anyone explain exactly where this sensor is as ive googled and they all give a location but im unsure where that location is on my car.

One thing to note is my car is the 2.0tdi S Line 170 with the stupid CNHA engine. Any pics or advice would be greatly appreciated. Sorry if the pictures aren't clear enough.

Thank you for all your input Steve, it really has made a difference. As for the current gain in bhp, youre right, my car feels alot quicker than it did previously 🤓.  

On 3/11/2021 at 8:10 AM, Anton8 said:

Hi 

My stop/start does come on very early sometimes, even before stationary. Very disconcerting as you lose the power steering as well, but when I got used to it doing this a quick blip on the throttle was all that was needed.

Tony

I have also found this with mine. I just ensure I turn off the auto stop feature everytime I drive as I cant stand it. Its borderline dangerous as its always as reaching a junction.

Morning all.... so, to update all to my recent issues, I am now happy to say I have my car back and shes running perfectly 🥰

All in all its cost me approx £2250 which im not happy about but "aye ho" it had to be done. The bitter pill to swallow was it went to three garages and the £700 bill from the first garage could of been avoided so please make sure you do youre research on garages before hand...

Changes to car:

1st garage - timing belt, waterpump camshaft pully seal -  £720

2nd garage - dpf removal, economy remap with dpf delete, ad blue delete - £350

3rd garage - Turbo replacement (I sourced for £200), egr cooler replacement (I sourced for £40), egr clean, 16 crank arms, new oil filter, new air filter, new oil, new breather pipe - £900 (price is high, but this version of audi has the most awkward engine, making it hard to work on)

£40 - tow recovery charge

Before I conclude this thread, I have a few more questions.

1. Should I have the swirl flaps deleted (programmed to stay open all the time)? And what are the benefits of this? (Dpf specialist recommended this)

2. Should I get the power remap which would take it from 190bhp to 240bhp

Thanks for your input Steve, it really does help paint a better picture.

My car does take adblue and tbh it seems to drink it so fast and I'm having to fill it up every couple of months. I know you and other will advise against it but I have opted to have the dpf replaced with a hollow one (obviously for track racing purposes 😉) and have bought a replacement turbo and egr cooler. With the dpf amendment it will require a remap which I have also been asked if I want the egr blanking/disabling and the adblu disabling. Now I have told them no to the egr being blanked/disabled, but would having the adblu diasbled affect the egr cooler? As after your comment about the crystallisation I dont want the replacement part to be affected.

Also, noted about the injectors I will get on to them

I have constantly had issues with my dpf regenerating and error lights. My car is actually in the garage getting repaired right now which all started from the dpf issues. I am replacing the egr cooler the turbo and against people's advice having the dpf filter removed. Egr coolers are a knightmare and when they are faulty they can affect the dpf, egr and the turbo. Also if you don't have the correct oil this can cause issues as you need a low ash oil.

Just to add fuel to the fire, the mechanic has also found 4 broken rocker arms. So I will be replacing these too 😢

Evening fellow members. The reason I havent posted any updated is due to not actually having any until today. So they have started stripping parts from the engine and have come across a totally blocked egr cooler. As advised by the garage I will be replacing this, but the garage have also advised I change the turbo as the blocked egr cooler could of damaged the turbo and before stripping down they claim it thrown up a "turbo boost pressure error twice" (funny thing is my VCDS didnt pick this up?). Also they say the turbo shaft has some horrizontal movement which I thought was normal. Now my questions are:

1. Can the blocked egr cooler be the reason for no power and failing to drive faster than 10mph?

2. Do you think the turbo will need replacing too?

Remember my dpf was 100 blocked and now it appears the egr cooler is affectively the same amount blocked.

After passing light through the main opening, light was only visible through three of the tiny holes.

Hi Steve, I went to the garage today and had diagnostic tests ran on the car, but it doesn't bring up a single error???? The car ran fine but sounds deep when you try to rev it. The only way I can explain the sound it when you get a boy racer that drills holes in his airbox or puts a K&N on to make it sound beefy. Any further thoughts?

Sorry for the delay, just to give you an update, my car is still poorly and it is currently with a DPF specialist. They have checked the DPF and it was full of soot and ash. They have also checked the EGR valve which was also full of soot. After sorting these there is still the apparent issue that theres no power and it sounds rough when running. They have performed compression tests on both sides of the manifold, one side seems clear and the other seems blocked. So they believe the manifold is blocked and needs clearing.

Now im no expert on this sort of thing, is this actually an issue that can cause my symptoms? 

Ive just spoken to a dpf specialist and they have said 26g is the equivalent to 80% blocked. 32.5% is 100% blocked so looks like the bill just got higher as it can't be regenerated at that level. 🙈🙈🙈🙈

Just to give an update, cam belt and water pump changed, car started up, was running for 5 minutes, sounded perfect with no knocking noises from the engine which is a positive..... But then it cut out 😭. They are in the process of stripping it back down to ensure they have done everything correct. I have told them to check the DPF as when I was running the test before it stopped running it was stating there was 30.9g of soot measured.

Is 30.9g of soot high? And can this cause the vehicle to stop running?