demiari

Ended up in Audi dealer 760e, crimped 4 wires of the clutch switch and she is good again now! Cant tell how the wire there ended up being damaged as there is no movement there at all but probably due to vibrations anyway she is back eventually

Very helpful indeed, i am having same problem right now, but my problem started only after i forgot the windows opened over night, so waiting to get my car back from garage as they couldn't fix it after breaking down an hour away i rang nearest tow company and he took it in to garage next monday 2 weeks, when i get her back i am going to check for moisture under the floor and j519 module and clean the plugs and see which leads me to belive its got to do with moistureas the module under passengersfootwell is controllingheadlight in conjunction with j519 and my left headlight started pointing down only it doesnt swivel all too randomly, if not that then it is wire pin 3 from t6ah glue grey wire, i could have damaged it in process of replacing c master cylinder, how far away from the plug is the branch that goes to ecu pin 44 of 93 pin plug? Is it all accessible on the chamber front or does it go inside the cabin under dash? Thanks Arjan Stevey Y i see you here too

Thank you Stevie, Ill check that tomorrow and get back to you, ill also have a look at the module in the boot Will report back Thanks

Hi Stevey This is text I also forgot to mention 3 weeks ago windows were opened i must have pressed the button and opened all windows and it was raining all night centre console was wet and floors were wet but i drove it and turned on high heat with ac dried them up but wondering if it is a corrosion under floor or something. Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 387123 km Date: 2025.11.27 Time: 22:04:28 Engine RPM: 829.00 /min Normed load value: 36.9 % Vehicle speed: 0 km/h Coolant temperature: 74 °C Intake air temperature: 52 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.320 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Starter control: Interlock or P/N-signal-Bits 0–7: 65 Brake actuation status-Bits 0–7: 65 Selector lever position-Bits 0–7: 0 Transmission neutral position sensor: adaptation status-Bits 0–7: 2 Engine status: COENG_RUNNING Engine status-Test_Program_Co_eng st @ COMPU VERB UBYTE3: 3

Ive looked everywhere there is very limited info, i get that clutch switch has been discussed but this one is different as i can see clutch is being picked as it changes from 1 to 0 when depressed but interlock just stays the same, the error i am getting for interlock could anyone interpret it please see photo

Sorry typo replaced the clutch master cylinder with the switch integrated onto it and nothing happened, funny enough though the interlock bit was flicking between 0 to 1 intermittently with the new switch that way i was able to start her after numerous tries but then the bit for interlock remains at 0 constantly now and wont start any clue

Hi all Audi a6 c7 6sp manual tdi 2.0 2015/6 I got start stop system fault contract workshop, scanned the car and got clutch error for start and interlock error too, replaced the clutch but still nothing is happening, anyone else had same issue what turned out to be the culprit? Wires? Which i am pointing at atm The pictures below is showing bits whith clutch pressed goes from 1 to 0 and intetlock should go from 0 to 1 but there is no change in bit for interlock Thanks

In detail explaining thanks Stevey, and i agree with you on second hand parts, although the strut brace is the only scrap bit i used i took off all the arms and bearing of it and used my arms and replaced the bearing after noticing play on it, so with the new bearings in regards to audi c7 4g2 models torque it to 200nm plus 90° and leave it at that, no need to back the nut out quarter, is it silly if i went ahead and replaced the otherside bearing or would you leave it until humming noise becomes louder, i can barely hear the humming noise at 50km/h or at over 80km/h but it there very faint nothing concerning sometimes you think its the tyres grip but i do feel the grinding and when it comes to cars i like them to be top notch even slightest unusual noise would annoy me at first i thought it was the strut mounts thats how i ended up with broken pinch bolt but the mount were perfect it was the sway bar drop link that was knackered and making knuckles i have two spare strut mounts now

Thanks Gareth for your replay. Now that i am reading my own question, i don't understand what i meant sorry for confusion. I was pretty sure the bearing has excessive play out of tolerance but then I wanted to be sure as i don't own this car long, thought maybe its normal play on the new models i still went with my gut feeling and replaced the bearing on drivers side, it made huge difference more confined steer feeling even though the car has only 80kmiles the bearing was guessed, going to replace the passenger side tomorrow too, checking other sites they do suggest to change them 75k to 100k, there was no indication of how the car was handling and no sign or noise of wear of the bearing but as you can see in video the bearing was gone. I had to get a strut brace from scrap yard and the buddy gave me the whole kit with arms and all i took of the bearing of the scrap strut and it had exact same play on the bearing as my one thats why i was comparing two old bearings as the old strut on my car pinch bolt was stuck in i didnt bother trying to get it out instead i went and replaced it with another one from scrap. Thinking of replacing the rear bearings as well but ill leave that for another time Thanks

Hello lads. Sorry its my first post if it has been covered i have been searching Internet all day trying to figure out if the wheel bearing play youll see in this video is within tolerance or any of you experts would say its goosed i have a scrap bearing and it has exactly the same play on it is it normal 20210329_192419.mp4