Cornelius

Hi All Thought I might give you some feedback. Whilst I was waiting for some advise on my current topic for 2 weeks now, I have decided to take my car to a tuning specialist. I was advised that this is a common problem with these Audi's and it took them well over a year to figure out what the cause was. In a nutshell, my cam belt has been replaced before I bought the car and I suspect the owner had issues with it since then, hence the reason he sold it. The specialist knew strait away what was wrong after I confirmed that the cam belt had been changed, The reason was that the Exhaust cam timing was wrong!!!!. He explained that allot of people who does these jobs does not realize that the cam timing needs to be polished off via the diagnostics port after the job has been done. Owners go on the internet and convince themselves that all sorts of horrible things have gone wrong, like DMF, oil pumps and even gear boxes. In some cases and £8000 later the timing was all that was wrong. I hope this will help anyone to sort out a similar problem, before spending stupid money, where a simple £50 will sort it.

Hi. I need some advice on an ongoing issue regarding my Audi A4 2.0 TDI. I bought the car about 4 months ago and within the first week, the EGR valve packed in. Some of the gears on the plastic cog broke off completely. This was replaced for me by the garage that I bought the car from. Before the EGR packed in and even after it has been replaced, I have noticed a bit of a shake when you start it up in the morning. This eventually fades away as soon as the car reaches its optimum temperature at about 90 degrees C. So I started trouble shooting to see if I can sort this problem. I have unplugged the M.A.F sensor and notice that the shaking is almost non-existent, and that the car was driving a little bit smoother. I have taken the sensor out and gave it a good clean and re-plugged it in. I was back to having the same problem. I concluded that the sensor must be faulty, and therefore replaced it with a new sensor. Still the problem persists. However if I unplug the sensor, it runs smoother? I have tested the coolant temp sensor by reading the ECU with an OBD2 reader that I have. It seems like the sensor is doing its job according to the readings, because it is consistent with what the temp gauge is saying on dash. Logic suggests that the MAF is co-dependent on something that is clearly not doing its job. I hope that someone can suggest any other avenues I can explore, before even considering talking about things like: Duel mass flywheel, Engine mounts and oil pump issues. Thanks