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yay 6

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Posts posted by yay 6

  1. There is a lot of water trapped under the carpet of my 2012 A1 ( 3 door model ). I have pulled back the carpet in either side of the centre console in the front and squeezed out a significant amount of the water, but there is still a lot of water further back which I cannot get to. I would like to remove the entire carpet and dry it out.

    Would anyone here have step by step instructions on how to achieve this?

    TIA

  2. My daughter's 2012 A1 was getting rainwater in from behind the glove box. I removed the wiper arms, the plastic scuttle and saw there is a plastic channel which is supposed to drain rainwater away. This channel sits above the air intake for the a/c. The channel is quite narrow and my guess is rainwater can overflow from the sides and then find its way into the a/c blower.

    I cut a 12 inch long and 1.5 inch wide strip of hard plastic and taped it under the channel so that any overflow is directed away from the a/c air intake. This was about 6 months ago and she has not had the water ingress problem since.

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  3. On my daughter's A1, both footwells get a significant amount of water pooling after it rains.

    The car does not have  sunroof and the boot area is completely dry.

    I removed the scuttle and cleaned the area below, then poured a couple of buckets of hot water down. Checked the footwells after that and they were dry. However, after a couple of days of rain, back to square one.

    My next option is to check whether the rain could be leaking in via the doors. On a previous BMW with a similar issue, the problem was the plastic sheet behind the door trim had come loose, but I believe the Audi A1 does not have this sheet.

    Any thoughts on a way forward?

  4. On 3/28/2023 at 10:41 AM, Boris 90 said:

    Hi, having exact same issue with water coming into passenger footwell. Would like to remove the plastic scuttle under windscreen - can anyone advise how to do this? After removing wiper arms, how do you remove the plastic scuttle? Thanks

    The scuttle has a ridge running its entire length which fits into a groove along the length of the windscreen. Lift and pull out the scuttle from either corner and then work your way alongthe entire length.

  5. I'm considering buying a 2012 A1 with the 1.4 CAX 122 hp engine for my daughter who has just passed her driving test. We live in Auckland, New Zealand.

    I will limit my choice to vehicles under 75,000 km.

    Some of the research I've done online indicates this engine is prone to excessive oil consumption and issues with the camchain and tensioner.

    Have any of you experienced these problems?

    Thanks.

  6. 6 hours ago, Tigger said:

    Hi Denzil (again),

    Sorry, missed this the first time around...

    Having seen the screenshots now that would have been my first question - if the lights at high beam are reporting they're only using 25% of expected output/load then is the system expecting a high watt Halogen bulb rather than LEDs...? Are they coded correctly? (Were they switched out from Halogen to LED and not re-coded correctly?)

    But you have found the answer now - glad you got it sorted.

    Have you got used to the 'tyre rubbing' sound now at sharp turns/full lock...? (our first conversation some time ago)

     

    Best Regards,

    Tigger

    Hi Tigger,

    Thanks for the explanation - makes complete sense.

    Yes, I have got used to the sound and enjoying the car!!

  7. I had an electrical specialist check out the issue. He says the headlight switch and the stalk are fine. The fact that the blue icon lights up on the dash indicates that there could be an issue wuth the signal being sent but not received by the high beam leds.

    Has anyone come across a situation like this?

  8. I have changed the oil and filter. I had used the car system to reset the oil change interval, but the messages as shown in my previous post persisted. Anyway, as Thomas suggested, I used the "Workshop" app and now the service due message is gone 😀. Thanks for the assistance, guys!!

  9. ....and now, my wife's car, a C7 sedan 2012 2.8fsi. High beam does not work, either in flash mode or full high beam. The blue indicator light on the dash comes on when the stalk is pulled. A scan with OBD11 came up with the message "open circuit". I erased the message, but the high beam still does not work.

    image.thumb.jpeg.5ae34556cfdd512ae210819e848f1b63.jpeg

  10. A little more information on the problem:

    The light selector switch and the indications around it do not light up but all the other switches do.

    image.thumb.jpeg.3d5af4430a08cd0dd9c20513c5da73dc.jpeg

    image.thumb.jpeg.931b31ad569e8348071148042546f30e.jpeg

    Further, the headlights and taillights turn on, even in daylight, irrespective of the position of the light selector switch. If the switch is in the "Auto" position, and the door is opened with the ignition turned off, the buzzer goes off until the selector is turned to the off position.

  11. No, looking at it this evening, there is a rubber grommet with a bunch of wires ( in black tape) emerging from it. This is from the rear of the light unit which is part of the rear fender. I was not quite sure if I should try to undo it. Then there is the other part of the light unit which is part of the boot lid.  I will take photos and post tomorrow. 

  12. On 7/9/2022 at 7:34 PM, Magnet said:

    Hello Denzil,

    ’….al lights checked…’ Some brake light assemblies  can have twin bulbs, which lead owners to believe the brake lights are working - which indeed they may be -but not to a uniform degree of brightness. 
    If this isn’t the source of your particular issue? Worth checking earths and connectors. 
    Perhaps you could let us know how you get on.

    Kind regards,

    Gareth. 

    Checked the brightness, and all seems ok. All wires seem ok with no obvious signs of fraying, so it looks like a trip to the auto electrician is next. Tha nks for your help/

  13. On 7/3/2022 at 7:43 PM, FPC said:

    Hi, 

    May I ask how you fixed this issue? The same thing happened to me and so far no leads on how to fix this. I would really appreciate it to know how you fixed yours. 

     

    Thank you in advance:)

    I had to take the car in to a professional car audio repairer. Turns out the dashboard MMI unit was faulty and need some ICs changed. Cost: NZ$ 750

  14. 2 hours ago, Steve Q said:

    Might be worth you disconnecting it and cleaning the terminals to see if it's that or a loose wire etc. 

    I have searched for instructions on how to remove the wing mirror in its entirety, but can only find videos on how to replace the glass. Would the terminals for the motor be accessible if just the glass were removed?

  15. On 5/6/2021 at 7:21 PM, Magnet said:

    Hello Andy, 

    This could be as simple as the folding mechanism needing some assisted lubrication - try a little WD40 as a start. 
    if indeed you do have switch issues ( which would be unusual) then if you don’t have the knowledge or equipment to check that, then you would be best advised to buy an hour’s labour with a trusted local auto electrician. 
    Kind regards,

    Gareth. 

    Hi Gareth,

    The driver's side mirror on my C7 Avant has stubbornly remained in the up position since the last few days. I tried the WD40 option, but to no avail. I can adjust the mirror glass, it's the housng that does not move.

    The OBD11 scan on the driver's door is attached. 

    Mirror1.thumb.jpg.7e3e29838666cb1d4935d2fa01520db4.jpg

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  16. The LED headlights on my A6 C7 do not flash on to high beam when the stalk is pulled towards the steering column or switch to high beam when the stalk is pushed away. The blue headlight indicator icon does come up on the dash.
    OBD11 comes up with no errors.

    On OBD11 i went into Central Electrics and did an output test. The screenshots are below:

    Any ideas on what might bethe problem? Thanks

    Headlight1.jpg

    L High beam.jpg

    L Low beam.jpg

    R High beam.jpg

    R Low beam.jpg

  17. Greetings from New Zealand!

    I imported this used car from Japan with 116,000 km on the clock. All used cars have to go thru a "compliance check" when they arrive. The workshop replaced the front and rear brake pads, "front bush", "front straight bush" and all 4 tyres.

    When drving out of the workshop, I noticed a grumbling/grinding sound from the front wheels while turning in either direction at low speed. I initially assumed it was surface rust on the rotors, and drove on home. However, this sound continues, only while moving off from a standstill and turning either left or right. It does not occur above about 20kmh.

    The workshop (indie) says this is typical of Audi vehicles, but I find that hard to believe. To check this out, I test drove a C7 at a car yard, and experienced the same sound, while at another dealer there was no sound whatsoever!

    Has anyone come across this issue?

    Thanks.

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