Ca11um43

I was told that the battery was at fault last time, so I replaced it with a brand new Yuasa HSB096 which made absolutely no difference...A new camshaft sensor is what fixed it last time, but I'm not getting that fault code anymore.

So I posted previously about my 2009 Audi A3 (2.0 TDI) going in to limp mode...I kept getting 2 fault codes which were P0016 and P0088. Turns out the camshaft sensor was bad, so just after the new year I had the camshaft sensor, timing belt, and water pump replaced (after taking it apart it turned out that the timing was out and the water pump was leaking as well). It has been absolutely fine since then, so I thought it was all sorted, but now it keeps going in to limp mode again. On my way to work this morning; after about 5 minutes of driving, the glow plug light started flashing like it did before. I lost all acceleration and I gradually lost speed until I had no choice but to pull over. I let it sit for about 10 minutes with the engine off, then it fired straight back up and drove absolutely fine the rest of the way. But it did the exact same thing on my way back home. It only seems to happen shortly after I start driving, but once I turn the car off and back on again, it goes back to normal. I obviously scanned it when I got home, and only had 1 fault code this time which was P0088 (fuel pressure too high) like before. Any ideas what it could be?

I assume (and hope) that he would check it all any way...But I'll mention it to him. I did remove the top of the timing belt cover the first time it wouldn't start. I believe it had a different fault code though (stupid me didn't take a picture before clearing it), and I also had a warning on the dash for the battery voltage being low. Even though the battery was absolutely fine 🤔 So I changed the battery and then it was fine until a couple weeks later. But any way, the cam gears and everything else I could see looked fine. The timing belt and water pump was done around 50,000 miles ago, so I don't think it needs a new one yet, but might as well do it while it's all apart having the camshaft sensor replaced. I'll do the crankshaft sensor at a later date.

I can't seem to figure it out either 🤔

For the past couple months my car has been going in to limp mode while driving, with the fault code: P0016. I haven't noticed any sort of pattern, as it seems to happen randomly. One minute it's driving fine, then all of a sudden the glow plug light starts flashing and I have almost no acceleration. If I turned the car off and back on again, sometimes it would go straight back in to limp mode, or sometimes it would be fine for a bit. But now it doesn't like to start either. If I let the car sit for a long time then it usually starts first time. But after I drive it and turn it off, it fires up and dies straight away with the glow plug light flashing (same fault code). According to live data, the camshaft speed is still showing a number even with the engine off 🤔 But the crankshaft speed is showing 0, which I assume is how it's supposed to be for both. So I'm lead to believe that the camshaft sensor is at fault. This is a job that I could do myself, but I believe the timing belt and everything has to come off to change the camshaft sensor on a CBAB engine, and it's not the right time of year to be doing a big job like that on the driveway. So I have it booked in on the 11th January to have the timing belt, water pump, and camshaft sensor done. I also have the parts to do the crankshaft sensor (will do it myself) at a later date, just for peace of mind. But does anybody else have any other suggestions of what the problem might be? It has a brand new battery which is less than a week old, and the alternator was replaced last year. The car is a 2009 Audi A3 (2.0 TDI).

The car is built to s-line spec from factory. However when using the ebay search (with my vehicle details), google, etc etc it kept coming up with plenty of shocks which fit a 2009 Audi A3, but only the standard model and not an s-line...I think I've got a few leads, and found a few links now though, from old forums. Just took me a while to find them.

Is there a difference between the s-line and standard shock absorbers? I want to fit Eibach Sportline springs in the near future, which I've been told will roughly lower the s-line by 25mm on the front and 15mm on the back, since they're already lower than the standard A3 from factory. But my shocks look very old (they are probably the original ones by the looks of them), so I might as well replace them at the same time. As well as top mounts. But which ones do I need? I've been told that Bilstein and KYB are good brands to look at for suspension, but all the one's I've found specifically say that they're not for an s-line, or not for vehicles with sport suspension (which I assume the s-line has). But is there really a difference? If there is, what shocks and top mounts would you recommend? The car is a 2009 Audi A3 (2.0 TDI) s-line.

It was a second hand battery...However it is only a couple of months old (I originally bought it for my previous car). According to all my battery testers, the battery which came on the car is absolutely fine, and it's now being used on a different car with no issues 🤷‍♂️ I also tested it while it was still on the Audi, and both voltage readings with the engine on and off were fine. But for whatever reason the car kept saying it was low, and then refused to stay running. The battery was disconnected for about a week before that first issue started, but like I said, I changed the battery and it has been absolutely fine for the past few weeks. In fact the car is fine again now (after clearing the codes yesterday). So far it has only gone in to limp mode once, but I imagine that it will happen again at some point.

Any ideas how easy it is to change the crankshaft sensor? And what brand to go with? From what I've seen, a lot of things including the timing belt have to be removed to replace the camshaft one 😢 So that will have to be a last resort. I'm happy to change the crankshaft one first though, if it's easy enough to do. Then go from there. Not long after buying the car, I did have an issue where it said the battery voltage was too low on the dash, the car wouldn't start (it would fire up and die straight away), and I had a fault code for the crankshaft sensor. All of this started at the same time. I can't remember what the fault code was, but I'm pretty sure it was different to the one I'm getting now. All I did was change the battery, and it has been fine since. Until today.

Shortly after I left for work this morning, my car went in to limp mode and the glow plug light was flashing constantly...Once I got to work, I scanned it and it came up with 2 engine faults. The first one was P0088 (fuel rail/system pressure too high), and the second one was P0016 (crankshaft position - camshaft position: Correlation Bank 1 Sensor A). I cleared the codes and now the car is back to normal, so it's definitely something electrical. Somebody I know says that the crankshaft sensor needs to be replaced, but it also mentions the camshaft sensor so I'm not sure. If it is the crankshaft sensor at fault, then how hard is it to replace? I know the camshaft one is a pain (looks like the timing belt and everything has to come off). The car is a 2009 Audi A3, with the 2.0 TDI (CR) engine. TIA

I have recently bought a 2009 Audi A3 S-Line, and I'm looking to get new wheels for it...I do like the stock ones, but they're too far gone in my opinion. The paint is flaking off, they are dented/buckled, pretty badly curbed, etc etc (they were like that when I bought the car). So I feel like instead of finding somebody who can sort them, and paying all that money to have them done, I might as well just get aftermarket wheels. But what would be the best spec to go for? The car is currently at stock height, but I am planning on fitting some 25mm lowering springs in the near future. I would like to avoid rolling the arches, adding camber, or doing anything too crazy, as that's not my sort of thing. I'm going for more of an OEM+ sort of look. Would 18x8, ET45 do the trick? Or maybe 18x8.5, ET45? Something like that. Also, what wheels would you guys recommend? TIA

I recently purchased a 2009 Audi A3, with a bad ABS module...It was removed and sent away for repairs, so the battery has been disconnected for over a week. The repaired ABS pump/module is now back on the car, and I had quite a few faults for the steering angle sensor, acceleration sensor, etc etc (none of these were there before). Luckily I was able to recalibrate most of them with my Autel MK808 scanner, but there is 1 which won't go, and that's "00003 - Control Module - No or incorrect basic setting/adaptation". Again, that fault was never there before, but it's causing the traction control and ABS light to stay on. I have the option to calibrate the "basic setting of inlet valves" on my scanner, which is what it said I need to do on google. But the calibration keeps failing. So what else could I try? Need it sorted quick.

Does anybody know the best way to remove old adhesive pads from where the number plates go? Just bought a 2009 Audi A3, and I've assigned my private plate to the car. The rear was fine as it's a full size plate, so I just removed the old pads the best I could then stuck my new one over the top. However my new front plate is a shortened one, and there is 2 pads still visible on both sides 😢 I need to completely remove them somehow, without damaging the plastic grill. I did try some sticker remover which I had laying around, with a little scraper, but that did absolutely nothing. Also, what's the best tape/adhesive pads to use for my new number plates? I've used the ones which came with the plates, but they seem a bit thin and I'm not sure if I trust them. I may replace them with something better just in case.

I am currently in the market for a 2009+ Audi A3 hatchback, with the 2.0 TDI (170) engine. Ideally an s-line as well. Had one lined up to buy, but unfortunately it sold before I was able to get it...I am in West Sussex, so looking for one that's not too far from me. Thanks

Thanks for the information. That will be very useful 😃 Ideally I'm after a quattro with a manual gearbox...And anything else (higher trim levels, etc) is just a bonus. But I'm not too fussed about the quattro part, so I guess I'll just have to see what pops up for sale when the time comes. There is a 58 plate Audi A3 for sale not too far from me, which is an s-line with the 2.0 TDI engine (170hp), quattro, and with a manual gearbox. But since my insurance on the Cupra runs out in October, it's just easier to wait until then.

I have...I was originally looking at the 2.0 petrol engine, but cost wise, they seem to be more expensive to buy (for the car itself), more expensive for insurance, and would cost more for fuel 😏 One of the reasons why I'm wanting to get rid of the Cupra R, is because it uses soooo much fuel. Also because it has coilovers and polyurethane bushings, so it's not very comfortable for a daily. But yeah, a diesel seems like the best option for what I'm after.

I am more than happy to give it a try. I have been pretty set on buying a diesel since deciding to get a new daily...My opinion on them isn't purely based on what I've been told by family and friends, but I have used the information from them to do a bit more research and answer a few more questions 🤷‍♂️ Which was the whole point of this post. I wasn't saying that I'm definitely going to do a DPF and EGR delete, because in fact, if I can avoid it then that's what I would prefer. But if it did get to a point where those deletes and a remap were my only option, finding out whether it's possible now will just save all the hassle if it did ever come to that. Based on what I've been told so far on this forum, I'm pretty happy that it's not going to be an issue any way.

As long as it's not going to cause any major issues, then I'm fine with it...I have no plans to remap this car, or really do anything major to it unless I have to 🤷‍♂️ Like I said, all the stuff I know about diesels is based on family and friends cars over the years, as I've never owned one (partly because of the stories I hear about DPF's not liking short journeys). I have another friend with a diesel A1 who only does short journeys, and he hasn't had an issue with his so far. So maybe Audi's just handle it better. Which is good to hear.

It's not something I would do unless I have to...I'm just trying to get an idea of what my options are if it does happen 🤷‍♂️ A few of my family members and friends have had diesel cars for years, doing short journeys. Some of those cars have never had an issue with getting clogged up, but some have. So it obviously depends on the car. I have no experience with these 2.0 TDI engines, or Audi's in general, so I'm not sure what the chances of having DPF and EGR problems are. A friend of mine recently bought a Lexus 220D, and within a month the DPF and EGR became clogged up. He tried going on long drives to regen it, tried multiple DPF cleaners, etc etc and nothing worked. In the end he had no choice but to just get both deleted, and get a remap to turn the warning lights off. According to the person who did the work, it will still pass an MOT. But he hasn't been for an MOT yet, since having that work done, so only time will tell how that works out for him.

Has anybody deleted the DPF and EGR on a 2.0 TDI, then successfully passed an MOT? Is it possible, or not even worth the hassle? I'm looking at buying a 2009+ Audi A3 as a daily, with the 2.0 TDI engine. It's literally perfect for what I'm after, except I never really do long journeys, so I have a feeling that the DPF and EGR getting clogged up is going to be an issue.

I thought that might be the case...Hopefully somebody who has done those deletes, will comment about their experience with getting it through the emissions. We are yet to see whether my friends Lexus will pass it's MOT, but the person who did the EGR delete, DPF delete, and stage 1 remap (the remap was mainly just to turn the lights off) said it will still pass 🤷‍♂️ Obviously that's a complete different engine though, so I might not be so lucky with the Audi. I could always take it for a long-ish drive every now and then, but that's not something I would usually do, so I would have to go out of my way and waste fuel to do it (not ideal).

I currently own a 2004 Seat Leon Cupra R, with the 1.8t engine (225 BAM), but when I first bought it that was my daily and my project/show car at the same time. I've now bought a dedicated project car, and have decided that the Cupra isn't as good of a daily as it used to be when it was stock. So I'm thinking about buying my first Audi 🤔 It won't be until around October time, when my insurance runs out on the Cupra, but I would like something a bit newer, better on fuel, comfortable, etc etc. So I was thinking about a 2009+ (which I believe is a facelift?) Audi A3, with the 2.0 TDI engine (170hp). But what do you guys think? Is there any better options/models? I never really go on long drives which is why I've put off buying a diesel for so long, but a friend of mine has a diesel A1, and he has never taken it on a long drive. He has also never had a problem with his DPF getting clogged up, or anything. Whereas another friend has a diesel Lexus, and his one got clogged up shortly after buying it due to only doing short journeys. So he got a DPF and EGR delete, with a stage 1 remap. And that's another thing that I'm interested in. Am I likely to start getting DPF problems? And if I am, would a DPF and EGR delete still pass a UK MOT? Tia