Howcanifixmya3

Alright yes, I get paid Monday, I’ll shell out the $300 and code the new battery for the car. I get a day off once every 14 days so it’s been very hard to find time to code the battery but I’ll get it done and go from there.

Don’t think so, because when I hooked my car up with the new intake I picked up for it I started it without the MAP sensor plugged in and it tossed its own specific code, plugged it in and the code went away. I purchased a fuel pressure sensor (the one that goes to the HPFP) last night off of eBay in desperation, the replacement called for me to swap the old unit to the new pump, so I’m hoping that might fix the issue. My camshaft lobe the follower rides on wasn’t warn, pitted or marked in any way so that’s not the culprit either. Someone mentioned it could be the inline fuel filter? The vehicle did sit for over a year at a dealership before I purchased it, and as I stated in another thread it ran fine during the test drive when I purchased it.

Oh and an added bonus of the p0087 code too…

So after I replaced the cam follower and the fuel pump, the car cranked back to life after sitting over a week with zero issues. I turned the car off and went to bed. Today, I start it when I get home from work and everything falls apart again, rough idle for first 30 seconds or so, random misfires… clear the codes and restart the car, the high pressure fuel pump code comes up yet again, after I replaced it with one that is of OEM specification. Did new plugs and coils, my question is what all could this code be related to besides the HPFP itself? Any ideas? I’m going crazy with finding and fixing all these little issues with this car.

Sorted for the most part, I’m sure I’ll be back on here requesting some help or advice from people again in the future, I have brakes to tackle next on the list as well as all the other small issues that I’m sure will arise.

I was able to find the replacement at ecs tuning, and with 2 day shipping it was $93 🤬

So I was able to narrow my issues down to the car being in limp mode due to a HPFP fault, long story short I stripped the 8mm triple square right out, however I got the banjo bolt out with very small vice grips. While I was removing the brass fittings from one pump to the other I broke one off inside the fuel pump! Anyone have a part number or even better a link to a store that I may buy the exact replacement for? I can’t believe the only thing that’s preventing me from driving is a brass fitting and it’s driving me nuts. Thank you for your time. I’ll attach pictures below.

Picked up a good compatible battery, however no place can code it for me until Wednesday. Still stuttering upon start up getting the low fuel pressure performance bank 2 code and mechanical fuel pump failure code, but on the plus side my fuel pressure pump arrives today in the mail along with my cam follower, so I’ll be replacing that today after I pick up a torque wrench, and goodies from ECS too are due to arrive. If the fuel pump doesn’t solve the issue with the misfires and rough starting then I’m going to break down and have the shop that codes the battery to the car go ahead and just go through everything.

Well I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes and put it back on, started right up like new, engine wasn’t chattering it was nice and smooth and zero misfires. Then some new codes came up, P0100 and P12A1. Still not wanting to shift upon hard acceleration so I’m thinking clutches or maybe if everything is tied into that no name battery that possibly the solenoids are not properly functioning or something along those lines???? Don’t know much about those dsg thingys Maybe they swapped the battery out on me while they were going over the final inspection before I had it? Took them almost an hour to complete.

Alright, so thank you everyone for this information, I’m learning the hard way as I go along with this car, maybe it would have been cheaper to fix the water pump and the rocker arm needle bearing in my A5 then this whole new car is going to cost me to get it back on the road lol live and learn I guess. Lol. Can’t wait to see how much this is going to end up costing me.

Doubt the battery was coded, I looked at it and it looks to be as about generic and cheap as they come, almost like if you could buy batteries on that website wish lol… I’m pretty sure that’s the culprit, I’m thinking about purchasing one tomorrow after work. Googling the whole coded Audi battery made my head hurt, so if I buy an oem replacement I would be good to go without recoding?

Well battery can be ruled, had it tested right now and it’s the correct stat for vehicle and it was confirmed to be brand new.

Yes I think I will do that, because what are the odds of the transmission clutches and high pressure fuel pump failing both at the exact same time? I had a diagnostic done for $50 and these were the results, they told me to fix the fuel pump…. To start.

Thank you for answering. It is an automatic. Yes that’s what I was dreading, which sucks because I haven’t even put 1000 miles on it yet. Buyer be wary right? I could not return it, I already put a healthy down payment on it I would lose, my monthly payments are not bad, I’ll keep it and fix it within the next few weeks I’m guessing. Could it possibly be just dirty or old DSG fluid?

Hello all! Been browsing this forum for awhile while deciding between fixing the motor in my A5 3.2 or pick up an older 8P, and I pulled the trigger on a one owner 06 2.0 turbo A3 with 130k miles on it. Test drive was amazing, so I picked it up, on the 300 mile drive home I stopped to eat and came back to start the car and noticed it took a few seconds to crank then at the car lot each time, and a check engine light was on. On the drive home I noticed it struggling to go up hill, around 75 mph it started to slow down as I climbed and as I put my foot into it she revved up but wasn’t going anyplace. I made it home and plugged in my cheap obd 2 reader and came back with multiple misfires, 1,2, and four, as well as a code saying I had low fuel pressure on performance bank, that it was a mechanical issue with the fuel pump under the hood. So after I replaced the ignition coils and properly gapped the new plugs, the misfire is still there only maybe not as bad as before. However something is still amiss with this car, I have not replaced the fuel pump just yet, because I’m trying to figure out what’s going on with the shifting, in any gear it feels like it’s seriously lacking power. I can floor it and the rpm’s race but the car slowly crawls forward. Drives great if you don’t have to get on the throttle a little. Just now I took it out to go to the store and tried flooring it from a dead stop and the rpm’s raced along like they should but the car slowly moved forward with the speed of elderly driver next to me. It’s very frustrating. Could this be an issue related to the fuel pressure regulator fault? I had it checked and it was only about 5-7 lbs off whatever it should have been, could that be the issue that’s making me think there is a problem with the transmission? It shifts fine otherwise, smooth, even with the paddle shifts. Also should point out that there is slight vibration that feels like misfires when the car is in Neutral or Park, but completely goes away in drive and reverse. It’s depressing I just want this car to perform how it did on the test drive, still a great car despite its hiccups. Anyone have any advice? Car is a 2006 A3 2.0 turbo. I’d appreciate any advice or input. Thank you.