Redwolf

No dont have Carista, just have Ross Tech VCDS which I would have thought might do the same thing. Thanks for the update on the flush.

Hi Gareth. It hits 90C and never goes above.

Thanks for the info Ian, I am reluctant to flush as I am not convinced the matrix is blocked. My current thoughts are a) The coolant is just not hot enough, hence thinking about the thermostat, and b) I can here the motors that move the heating flaps in the ducts but are they actually move full distance. Before I pull the car to bits I have a cheap (Aldi) endoscope, so I am going to see if I can feed under the dash and actually see any movement. Will update if/when I find anything Cheers Stephen. I was hoping the Thermostat wouldn't be too bad to get at, but it sounds horrendous. The car is due a service and cambelt, so seems an appropriate time to do the the Thermostat as well!

Thanks Steve. I have VCDS and nothing came up on there. I believe 90 degrees is the norm though I was surprised that the bottom hose was cold even after a long run.

Hi. Looking for some advice regarding an issue with my daughter in laws car. I have trawled forums and YouTube but struggle to find anything specific for this particular model or issue. Apologies if this has been covered but I can’t find it. The Car: 2017 Audi A4 Diesel Avant Quattro (B9), engine - DETA The problem: She complained that the cabin never gets hot and she is freezing by the time she gets to work. I have sat in the car when she has returned from work, with the temp set to 28C, and can confirm it is cold in there and that the heater does blow out ‘warm’ (not hot) air at the ‘face/centre level vents’ with the temp set to 28C. Feeling down at foot level and in the rear they are blowing cold. My initial thoughts were maybe there was insufficient hot water and that the heater matrix was blocked and need to be flushed, I also wondered if there was an issue with the flaps/gates not opening that control the flow through the ducts. Here are some of the checks/tests I have already done and any outcome. · Is the heater matrix blocked? When the car engine was hot (90C) I felt the flow and return pipes that go from the engine bay to the heater matrix. I could tell no difference in temperature; they were both hot. My conclusion is matrix is probably OK. (This car does not have those silica bags in the coolant bottle to clog the matrix) · Are the flaps opening? If I turn the temperature down at about 18C I could hear a motor behind the dash and the air flow went cold, when put back higher, I again heard a noise and temperature got warmer. Could also hear motor when selecting different settings (demister or feet). Tested the same for the passenger side. My conclusion is that the ‘flaps/gates’ are working OK From the above tests my thoughts are that there are probably no blockages in the matrix and that the control units are working correctly. I am now thinking that although the flow and return pipes to the matrix are hot and we do get warm air, that the coolant isn’t actually hot enough. The car temperature gauge never exceeds 90C. I then felt the main radiator hoses. The top hose was hot (not boiling hot), but the bottom hose was stone cold! My thoughts now are it could be a faulty thermostat. So here is the next problem, thinking this might be a relatively ease thing to swap out I cannot find any information (forums/YouTube) of where to locate and change the thermostat on this model. She did mention that even on the coldest of days (0C) the car doesn’t get above 90C but the radiator fan will be on. Is the thermostat housed within the water pump or a separate housing? Where is it physically located? If in the water pump is that part of the cambelt assembly? If you got this far reading my ramblings, then well done and thank you! If you can offer any advice and guidance, point me to some ‘how to’s” (for this particular engine) then that would be much appreciated. Thanks for reading. Regards, Kevin

Hi Guys. First time post, hope you can help. 2017 Audi Quattro A4 Avant 2.0 Diesel S-Line This is my daughter in law’s car, and I am trying to help diagnose the fault but know we will probably need to take to an auto electrician. Just wondering if anyone has seen this before and knows the issue. Driving along when suddenly (with no notice) the car lost all power (Electrical). Engine stopped, no power steering, no indicators/hazards, no dash lights. Managed to get to the side of the road and called breakdown services (AA). Their mechanic said it was extremely hot under the bonnet and the ECU was particularly hot. There was no power from the battery and the mechanic tried to jump the car using a booster pack. When he connected the booster under the bonnet (battery as you know is in the boot) and connected the earth there were sparks and the booster tripped out. The mechanic suspected something between battery and front of the car where he connected the booster was shorting and she was lucky the car did not set on fire! The car was recovered and taken back to house as no garages were open at this time. We have now performed some further checks as below: With everything connected 1. Multi-meter across the charging/jumping terminals under the bonnet, and it showed Zero (0) Volts! 2. Removed the spare wheel and tested across the battery terminals, again it showed Zero (0) Volts 3. I then set the Multi-meter to Ohms and checked for resistance\shorts. I performed the same check directly across the battery terminals and under the bonnet. These both showed no resistance indicating some sort of short of the positive to earth. Positive Terminal Under Bonnet Disconnected. 1. Again, using the Multi-meter set to Ohms and checked for resistance\shorts between the disconnected positive cable and to earth now showed resistance. 2. Did the same test from the Positive terminal of the battery (with the positive cable under the bonnet still removed) to earth and it also showed resistance. This indicated some sort of short of the positive to earth when connected. 3. This suggested that any problems are on the engine side rather than the battery or cable to the engine bay. Both terminals removed from the battery 1. With the Multi-meter still set to Ohms and cables disconnected from both the battery and the positive in engine bay it showed resistance 2. With no battery terminals connected I decided just to have a final voltage charge across the battery and to my surprise this showed just over 10 volts. Any help appreciated.. Kev