Rust81

Would I be able to code myself using obdeleven? Local VAG specialist wants £100+ which is a joke and another independent reckons it doesn’t need doing.

Thanks - it’s had a new battery 6 months ago but it wasn’t coded. That said it must recognise it’s a new battery as the start/stop is now working

Are there any sensors that can be replaced or are they all part of the water pump?

Yes stays at 90. When the EML comes on, if you stop then restart, that journey also stays at 90. But on the one occasion the EML came on and we didn’t stop/re-start, it went just above 90 and fans were blowing hard. That’s what made me finally book it in. Error code is P00B700

Hi all, after some advice from the community please. I have a 2014 A4 Avant with the 1.8TFSI engine (170bhp version). For the last few months I’ve been getting an intermittent EML and car going into limp mode. It happens when the car is up to temp and the gap between the two journeys is quite short, eg within 30 minutes so that the car is still warm from before. If I turn the car off and on again the EML goes away and I have full power. I took the car to my local independent VAG specialist and they have suggested replacing the water pump & thermostat as it comes as one unit, but cost is over £1k all in. There’s no sign of coolant leaking on the pump. Obviously keen not to spend that level on a £4k car but wanted to get advice on repair & cost? Thanks

Yep you need to remove the door card and some of the trim around the window. I watched a video on you tube and replaced mine within an hour. It’s pretty easy. Just don’t rush getting the door card off or you’ll break the clips.

Hi, looking for any help and advice with an ongoing issue on my 2014 Audi A4 Avant 1.8 petrol with the CVT box. Over the past month or so the engine management light has come on 3 or 4 times and says reduced power and limited to 4000rpm. When you next start the car there’s no warning light and car drives fine. Took the car in to my local independent to get it scanned and it’s showing these codes. It’s not a coolant issue as the level is fine and rad was replaced a year ago so the garage are confused with what the issue could be. The issue seems to happen when you restart the car after only having done a short journey. Thanks for reading and any advice appreciated. Thanks.

Hi all - replying to a post I started at the end of 2023. I finally gave in and replaced the battery at the weekend as it was only a batter of time before the old one gave up with the colder weather. I bought from Tayna and got a Varta AGM that’s the exact replacement for the original that was fitted. Now all forums and posts say you need to get the battery coded so that the car knows it’s a new battery. I haven’t done this bit yet but I’ve noticed that the start/stop is now working when it hasn’t worked for the last year with the old battery. so it obviously must know that something has changed. As the battery is a direct replacement and spec as the old do I still need to get it coded; which seems as simple as changing the serial number by 1. Thanks!

Thanks for the tip re LLL parts. I used that and managed to find the same part number that Mark posted. Now I just need to find a reasonably priced mirror. In other news had a CVT gearbox service today and it drives so much better. Thanks for all the help. Russ

Hi, I have an Audi A4 b8.5 2014 model. I need to replace the power folding passenger mirror but struggling to find the right one on eBay and breakers yards. According to the build codes I need PRCode: 5SJ = Left exterior mirror: convex and PRCode: 6XK = Exterior mirrors: automatically dimming electrically foldable/adjustable/heated. Not bothered about the colour as have the existing case I can use. Does anyone know how I can translate the above codes into a part number I can find? Thanks in advance!

I suspect it’s the original battery so coming up to 10 years old. I’ve just put two new tyres and replaced the radiator so hoping I can drag out replacing the battery. Would you charge via the bonnet connections or remove it and do it that way?

Hi, I’m getting the low battery warning when starting the car for the first time each day, I suspect not helped by the recent cold weather. The message says the battery will be charged whilst driving and then doesn’t come back til the next day. I’m thinking to get a trickle charger and leave it hooked up to the charge points in the bonnet as the manual says. Has anyone had experienced the same and am I better off just getting a new battery? Thanks

Hi - quick update as car has just been in to the garage. There’s a small leak coming from the pipe at the bottom of the radiator and there is also some staining on the rad itself so being advised to swap the rad out which I will probably do.

I took the car for a drive around the block last night and had the red coolant warning appear with the turn your engine off message. I was only one road from home so got it back and temp didn’t get above 90. Obviously I need to get it to a garage so I will fill the coolant up and see if it holds to get it the 2-3 min journey to the local garage. My question - should I just top it up with water or use the non g12 coolant (Prestone) that I bought? I’ve read that mixing coolant isn’t a great idea. Any advice?

I actually think this is a coolant leak. Can’t see anything obvious around the cap or any of the pipes on view. Will book it into the garage and try and limit driving in the meantime.