Hammie1982

Oh i understand that pal, i have had cars in the past that the only thing that it never broke on me was the speed limit!!!! Im just glad you got sorted!

Recently had a friend that was having a similar issue..... Same kind of car, came out of a roundabout and heard something "Pop". Told himself he hit a stone or something and thought no more of it until he said the "Ride got stiffer and bumpier" as he went along. Got about 15 mins from my place and gave me a call! I went down and there he was sitting lower than my D3 A8. Jack out, wouldnt fit under the car.... Wooden blocks out and drove up onto them to get the jack under the front end. Turned out his suspension link (Bottom arm to ride height sensor) decided that it no longer wanted to be connected at both ends..... And the little Ball joint that it connects into was broken and half of it was in the suspension link itself. Into my little box of tricks and i pull out a little bag full of small ball joint fittings, a 9mm spanner and a 10mm spanner. Remove whats left on his lower arm and replace it with a new one! a bit of fiddling and cursing and i got the ball out of the link bushion and popped it back onto the new ball joint! Bingo hes back in action! He had been pricing new struts, new compressors and all sorts while i was on the way to him and he was a very dejected man when i handed him my keys and told him to go get us a coffee while i had a look!!!!! When he arrived back and i told him i had a diagnosis and a price for him to be back on the road he looked like he was going to have a stroke!!!! I told him it wasnt as bad as he thought and told him he would be back on the road in about 15 mins and for the price of "Free" and i thought he was going to drop in front of me! I always tell people when theres a problem like this, not to think of worst case straight off as often there is a simple enough solution!

On your phone bluetooth menu, select the mmi connection and check the settings allowed. you should have a couple of options in there like the pic attached. Make sure the Media audio option is allowed. (thats the first thing i would do anyway)

realistically there are 2 options for doing what your asking about. 1 is spacers and 2 is lower offset wheels. Spacers have been given a bad rep for years, but yet noone will give lower offset wheels a bad rep for doing the exact same thing only in a slightly different way. Infact it would be my opinion that 10mm spacers are going to put less additional load on the drive train system than changing a wheel from a 255 to a 275 or even 285 profile on a lower offset wheel but i would be more than happy to recieve any explination as to why i might be wrong on this from someone that knows more and has tangiable reading material to show otherwise. Yes i know some people have taken these things to the extreme and put 70mm+ spacers on a car with just elongated bolts and not used the safer bolt on hubcentric options that are also available (Just to emphasise that i am not suggesting either option as being better than the other, I am merely pointing out the 2 options that i would be aware of that are not a huge cost in an attempt to answer the original query within the confines of the terms they set out in their query)

If the headlights have been changed in the car due to accident, upgrade etc. Its very likely you will have to code the headlights to the car. has anyone checked fuses or even put a multimeter to the car to see if there is power getting to the right systems? That would be my first port of call after that, id be taking the car to someone who has the equipment to code things correctly and get it all coded in and checked out properly. A car without full beam capability will not pass mot inspections (if they are carried out correctly)

Bodge, Sorry i came to this so late. I was going to point you in this direction. I dont often come to this forum due to the "everything not stock is wrong" attitude that i have previously experienced. Hope you got your camber sorted!

Regenerate the DPF and Have the EGR cleaned out aswell. a large proportion of the time if your DPF is clogging up from shorter journeys, then your going to need to clean out the EGR Valve too.

ill be quite honest, there will NEVER be an issue with the DPF in my wifes car again (unless someone goes to inspect it that is)

You might find that its like the one in my wifes Seat Alhambra. I found it was clogging up alot so got a scope and put it down into the DPF (removed from the car). couldnt see anything so i put a bung in it and poured a load of DPF clean into it, and left it over night. Then i used a DPF Rinse fluid and gave it a proper clean out. (all this was done after a forced purge while on the car) With the scope i was able to see a crack in the DPF Material inside the unit (fairly big crack) which required a replacement DPF (or a DPF Delete)

I think this query would be best answered on the ODB 11 Forum and not a general Audi fan base forum. Not saying you wont get the right answer here, I just think the guys over there would be in a much better position to be able to answer that question than a simple occasional end user. For what its worth looking at the the image in this link https://imgbb.com/LCtLsH3, I think you can see what software is installed but i wouldnt swear on it.

Ive just done my own lights with a Maguires Headlight restoration polish and a hot air gun. I used the hot air gun first and that took quite a bit of the cloudyness out of the glass (being careful not to overheat the glass) Then used my drill mounted polishing pads and some tape around the edges that i didnt want to touch with the polish. a small bit of water to keep the heat under control and polished the glass with the 3 different grades of pads. Keep it slow and steady and youll be fine. If your really uncomfortable doing it yourself, speak to your local detailers and they will be able to do it for you.

Robert, I dont know how a bearing issue would be causing a misfire, unless the piston slap was REALLY bad and then you would be loosing oil and it would sound like a bag of spanners in a washing machine. What are you using to diagnose the issue? Is it a garage computer or a private VCDS / other ODB plug in unit? It should be able to pinpoint where the misfire is coming from! I have seen reconditioned / reprogrammed injectors throw up errors in the past. Especially on remapped cars. It might be worth getting a second opinion on the bottom end, as without hearing the car or knowing the fault codes, anyone could be throwing darts into the air and waiting to see what fault it picks.

The Buzzer itself is part of the cluster. if its the buzzer then its (unless you are a master craftsman with it comes to soldering) a replacement cluster thats needed. Completely cost prohibitive in my opinion. As for testing for errors, yes you can throw VCDS on the car, but i dont remember ever getting an error on the computer for this problem (ive had 2 different cars that suffered with the same thing... an A4 and an A3). What i might suggest before you go ripping into the dash to look at the rear of the cluster, is checking other connections around the dash. particularly around the light switch or the indicator stalk.

is yours a BOSE system or what one is in your car? Theres a fairly common issue that the Rear Window Washer, leaks and then corrupts and corrodes the amplifier boards. What i would suggest is while your in there, seal up any of the joints etc where the water can leak from or reroute the washer line

they are an absolute pain in the bum to change. but going in thru the wheel well is the quickest and "easiest" Make sure you have a axel stands and not working under there with the car held up by the jack. I use wheel blocks and axel stands every time now after a near miss some years ago that seen a shogun fall off a jack and narrowly miss taking a friends arm off at the shoulder.