Audi-Inny

Already tried the ecu. Wheel angled sensor. Replacing ecu/pcm did not work. So after replacing the wheel angled sensor, car is running fine. So, I put my old ecu/PCM back in. And still running…

I did what you did. And it solved my problem. I replace almost every part that I read on here, AND other forums and such. I meant to answer a question from someone on here. ( July 23rd, I think. Message, to me, had to be translated into English.) I realized after changing the wheel angle sensor, which you supplied the part number (yellow/black squarish box under steering column attached to the ignition tumbler), that it stemmed from when my key would not turn, where I twisted my key so bad.l, I was trying to resort to anything to get it to turn before replacing the ignition. So a coworker of mine, at the time, told me it happened to him in another make and model car. So he would spray wd-40 into the key slot and sure enough, it worked for me. But after about 3 days, the ignition would get stuck again, into the ‘on’ position, with the instrument cluster lights on. So I desperately did the wd40 again, and it would work. I finally replaced the ignition tumbler. But after some time, my car suddenly would stop while in motion. My other post has a full explanation of remedies I did. So, my conclusion… wd40 shorted the circuit(s) in the wheel angled sensor. And once it hit a certain temp, car would just die. Thanks so much for your info. I would’ve never thought to change that part. Because I did it all. God Bless… again, thanks! My car has made a 325 mile trip and back (round trip 650 miles) without issue. It has now gone thru 2 months of sweltering heat of 109F degrees. So relieved!

I just did a high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) on my car this past wknd. Today’s high will be 104 degrees. So I’m testing the theory of it being the HPFP overheating. I’ve read that quite possibly it’s because I’m driving my car with a low tank of fuel also. (Read about this all week long.) I’ll come back here and post, for sure. After my trip back from work. (Wish me luck…)

Same thing has been happening to my car 2011 Audi a3 8p. The end of last summer. And now present start of summer (end of spring). Dashlights out, car shuts off completely. After cooling down between 2-20 min possibly it’ll start. And stall when it reaches a certain temp while driving it.

I have had this exact issue. It started at the end of a hot summer last year. Possibly 100 degrees out in Las Vegas. It was 112 and stayed up there weeks before. My car stalled in the middle of doing 45-50mph on a busy three to four lane road. Dash lights went out. I pulled over into a gas station, decided to get gas and car would not start. Dash lights came on when turning key. Then after a few minutes of panicking at the gas pump (stuck there) under some shade, it started. Then drove for about 5 minutes and it happened again. Kept on cranking it. Then after maybe 5-10 minutes, I was able to start it and made it home about 5-7 miles. Thought it was my battery. So I recharged it. Battery was fine. I decided not having my AC on because I suspected alternator/battery. This was the end of August, I think? Then it happened again just recently.about a month ago. (March/April) it kept happening 5 or more times after that. That’s 5 different days. Tried jumper cables with whomever would come to my aid. Same thing if I let it cool down. It will start and run another 3-5 miles then stall. Bought a new battery and it wasn’t that. Changed the voltage regulator on the back of the alternator, still stalled. Changed the fuse box, made sure the battery cable was grounded to the chassis, swapped relays, a few of them (under steering column, checked fuses, all good. Changed coolant temp sensor and ignition key tumbler. And it still happened. I scoured the internet for insights on the matter, and the only thing left was to change the pcm/ecm/ecu. (The cars computer) I’d have to get a preowned ecm and send it along with my factory one to have them clone it for the immobiliser. This is current as we speak. It seems that my cars computer probably got too hot. The car was originally from Arizona. (another hot weather state here in the U.S.) my car is a 2011 Audi A3 8P. I even hooked up a voltage battery digital meter in my car and it read 14.1v while the car is running. And 12.6 when the car is off. It’s weird that I stumbled onto this topic. Because I read a lot but nothing exactly like yours (OP). In the winter I had no issue with headlights on, and foglights, heater. And it would be parked in the garage. The most recent stall happened early in the drive home, when I left my car out on the driveway overnight. In the sun. It stalled much earlier. But mornings, when I drove to my job, I stressed out a lot but, it wouldn’t stall. It was when I drove home around 4pm everyday, when the weather was at its peak during the day. Sorry for the long post. But I needed to let others know that this is a thing. And it’s dangerous. I would imagine getting stuck on the highway/freeway. And no one letting me pull over. Because the hazard/emergency light wouldn’t work right away. I would have to turn off the car, and turn it back on to get them to work. And you know what that means. ‘Steering wheel locked.’ So I’ll post after the remedial process is done. For now, I’m already in the process of installing a small online blower where the ecu is. And turn it on when the car reaches normal running temperature. Good Luck All. If you happen to run into this problem. WIP…