greggles

Hi Spartacus, yes I bought a new oil level sensor from a reputable retailer. After it was fitted, I took the car for a test drive, I should mention at this point, that my mechanic thought it was an oil pressure sensor, despite all the info messages. Anyway, as soon as the test started, the same fault lights illuminated. I drove back the garage where the mechanic stood with a new oil pressure sensor in hand and a smug grin on his face. Turns out he was right all along and the fault has never returned.

Hi Cliff, the outcome is this fault simply went away. I had another posting regarding an oil warning light on the 10 April. This turned out to be a pressure sensor, even though the check button stated oil level fault. However, when the diagnostic test was carried out, there was no faults on anything. My theory! The car had just had a 180,000 miles major service. The fuel and air filters were both replaced as part of this, the mechanic did say, it looked these hadn't been changed in a very long time, if ever. If the ECU had been operating on restricted parameters, then suddenly those parameters change. Could this be the ECU getting use to it's new operating parameters. The car runs like a dream now and there is a marked difference in the performance since the service.

The car has been checked with a VCDS today. There were no codes. It appears the low oil sensor works in isolation. However, this does confirm that nothing more sinister is going on other than a faulty oil level sensor.

Thanks Spartacus, I have done some research on YouTube. It appears my car does not have the amber sensor warning light. The oil warning flashes red and by pressing the 'check' button, this identifies the issue. That said I have tried to find out what other text warnings are also available, but without success. There are no obvious signs of engine damage, it still runs smoothly. However, the college where I work has a VCDS, so I will get it checked out tomorrow hopefully.

The oil light started to flash (red oil can with dripping oil). I stopped to check the oil level, which was fine. When I pressed the 'check' button, the message read 'low oil level' and to top up or words to that effect. Knowing that the oil level was good, I suspected the low oil sensor was defective, so continued on my way for the rest of the 200 mile journey. The car completed the journey without missing a beat however, my mechanic eventually text me back to say it could also mean low oil pressure and I shouldn't drive the car. I replied 'too late, I have just done 200 miles'. That said the engine still sounds as sweet as a nut, as normal. Has anyone had this issue previously, and what was the outcome?

The college has massive sponsorship with Toyota who have a factory just down the road. Their cars are brand new Toyota's straight off the production line and the equipment donated to the college is the newest and best tech available. If the diagnostic test states it's the No1 injector, then the No1 injector it is.

Hi Cliff I am not getting any of the weird warning lights anymore. However, from time to time and not everyday, there is a misfire. The one in the Mersey tunnel as previously mentioned, and again this morning. But only a couple of times at high speed. I think this does point to the No1 injector breaking down. My question now would be, if I need to replace one injector, should all four be replaced at the same time?

Hi Steve, it turns out my car can have it's heating and ventilation system checked for a fault code. The test showed a windscreen motor failure. Because the glovebox had to be removed and it had a faulty light switch/brake, I had this changed at the same time. How the windscreen demister works everytime and the glovebox opens with a dampened movement, plus the light comes on too. Happy days!!!!

Hi Cliff I don't know if my car has an OBD port. I work in a college and motor vehicle plugged in a code reader into some sort of port. They tend to have the latest gear, so I expect it was a decent reader. I can ask them to check the battery on Monday however. I wondered if because the car has had no service history for a very long time, could changing the air filter cause the ECU to recalibrate it's fuel air mixture?

My car has just had a 180,000 miles major service. Rear brake pads and right rear brake caliper replaced. A couple of days after the brake warning light (amber) illuminated filled by a steady traction control light. That's when the engine became 'lumpy' like it was running on two cylinders. I stopped the car to text the garage that had done the service. However, when I restarted all warnings were gone and the engine was normal again. Later that day, I had a repeat of the first incident with the same outcome. Other Monday I drove to work, the brake warning light illuminated, I waited in trepidation for the traction control light but it didn't come on. At work I had a diagnostic test done on the car, but the only code was for the No1 fuel injector. As I have driven the car more, there have been no more lights. However, in the Mersey tunnel yesterday on the uphill part the engine misfire on three occasions. The traffic in the tunnel was heavy and slow. One out of the tunnel and on the motorway, it didn't miss a beat, and I pushed it hard to see if I could get a repeat. Everytime I get in the car now, I am expecting the worst. Can anyone explain the strange issues?

Ahh, the A4 had a face lift in 2005/6. I hadn't thought about wiring looms.

Hi, My 2003 A4 is fitted with a climate control panel with a temperature range starting from 18 degrees. Later control panels started at 16 degrees e.g. my previous 2004 A3. The part number of the one fitted in my car is 8E0-820-043-AD. Later climate control panels have the same part number but ending BM. My car does have heated seats so this is no different, I wanted to upgrade because sometimes 18 degrees is to warm but the LO setting is to cold. I manage with one side on 18 and the other on LO, which is okay as long as its only me in the car. Does anyone know if the BM version will work in my car?

Previously, the windscreen demister had failed, on both occasions it was on a Thursday. However, two Thursday's have past now without incident, therefore, I can deduce that Thursday is not the issue here! However, I have made a decision regarding this problem. Previously, in a seperate post, I asked a question about changing the glove box brake/switch unit. Turns out the glove box does need to be removed. Therefore, there will be access to the demister flap motor, which will be changed speculatively. My thoughts on the panel not being an issue are, there are two different buttons to select air to demist the windscreen. If one or the other didn't send a signal to the demister flap motor, then the panel would definitely be the faulty item. Anyway, time will tell I suppose.

Hi Steve, checked with my local garage that completed the 150,000 mls service last March. They stated that the pollen filter would have been removed, cleaned and refitted. What I am really interested in is whether this system is monitored so it might give fault codes.

Thinking about the 2013 Golf I had previously, the symptoms are very different. That would start the journey with everything working fine, but gradually degraded after driving for a couple of hours. The A4 is all or nothing right from turning the start key.

I guess the question is what could cause an intermittent fault. The panel or the flap motor? Will this system give fault codes on a 2003 car?

This is all I can find on the system on YouTube. I don't know what could be intermittent here. I wonder if the panel could be the culprit?

https://ebay.us/m/C82cMh If you open the link, you will see the panel with the demister switch bottom left and the 'up-arrow' switch upper right side. Maybe button would have been a better description than switch.

No electric flaps on this age of car Cliff.

Last week when I pressed the windscreen demist switch, no air was directed to the screen. I tried the 'up arrow' switch but still no joy. I dropped the car off at my local garage for them to look at the next day. However, when they checked the car, it worked perfectly. Yesterday, in the pouring rain driving to and from Manchester, the demister failed to direct air to the windscreen again. It was like driving in fog, but I was the only one effected. Again, I called my local garage, but this time they can't see the car until the New Year. However, when I tried the demister this morning, everything work perfectly. Has anyone any idea about what the problem might be. The garage can only fix a fault that exists at the time.

I was thinking of just fitting an LED bulb, because it doesn't get hot, so won't matter if the light doesn't switch off.

Hi Steve, this probably explains why it's never previously been replaced. Thanks Greg

The light has never worked in the glovebox, to be honest I thought there might not be one fitted, until I had to empty the glove box for a different issue. I replaced the bulb and it worked however, I had a suspicion the light did not go out when the glovebox was shut, and a video confirmed this. I have checked out YouTube for the glovebox light switch replacement, but can only find info on the complete glovebox removal. Can the glovebox switch be replaced with the glovebox fitted, or will the glovebox have to be removed?

I bought the TT and it has a CD player in the glovebox. She was made up.....

Hi, does anyone have a solution to the spare wheel issue for the Mk3, or is the Mk2 similar? Also, I believe there are 2 different kinds of 'gloop' that squirt into a tyre. One that wrecks it and another that doesn't. Which one do Audi supply with the car?