Johnny Crowe

There are numerous threads on line re this topic. I never purchased new replacement connectors as the donor parts from the breakers sufficed. As with all online purchases quality will vary. I doubt Audi UK will sell connectors separately as will want drivers to buy the entire fuel hose. In the likely event your side connector tabs have broken it may be temporarily held with light cable ties. This was my case when I was replacing the fuel filter.

Hi Sweattysocks Specific pliers did assist to some extent. Also applied Plug gas or other penetrating fluid to connectors and pushed down when side clips depressed. Some were however so brittle I had to purchase replacements. Managed to source a fuel lead from an Audi car breakers and used this is a donor.

Dear Members Would welcome any advice on how to remove the fuel line connectors on my daughters A1 diesel. I purchased the enclosed filter with fuel lines from a car breakers as all three connectors on her vehicle are broken and retained by cable ties. I intend to transfer the three lines if I manage to remove without damaging. Enclosed is another photo of a recently purchased tool which I thought would assist. Thanks in anticipation Johnny

Hi Gareth. Thanks for clarifying. I resorted to a mechanic as he was required to weld a bolt onto the splined M16 to enable removal. Not sure what make he purchased. Charged around £40 for the part which would suggest less than superior quality. Car is quieter when driving. I am tempted to replace the N/S with the advice offered as there is a similar noise emanating on the left side. Any recommendations for where or what part to purchase is welcomed. Johnny

Hi Gareth Replaced bearing on existing hub. What would constitute the need to renew the hub assembly?

Pleased to report that offending hub bolt was removed by welding a nut and released with an extended 3/4 breaker bar. O S rear wheel bearing was worn however this was only detected when removed from the hub carrier. Mechanic suggested this may have been caused by the hub bolt having been over tightened in the first instance. The mechanic also referred to similar problems rounding the head when removing but not when tightening the M 16 hub bolts. Thanks to all who contributed. No doubt I will be enquiring again on a different topic at some point in the future D.V. Johnny

Hi Rybrook. Thanks for your interest. Hub knuckle was on car at the time. Your suggestion to use heat is valid however do not possess a blow torch ( yet) Have resorted to leaving car with a mechanic who sympathetically acknowledged my plight. He intends to weld the 16 mm spline socket to the offending bolt.

Thanks Gareth and Cliffcoggin for your prompt responses. At least my welding suggestion may be plausible. Alternatively (as I do not possess a welder ) was to consider using a M17 spline hammered into the offending bolt to act as an extractor. I have to confess I merely only testing if I could loosen the bolt with a view to replacing the bearing as I am hearing a cacophony of sounds from the rear which could be bearing and / or suspension related. My problem is that I am too inquisitive for my own good. Whenever I acquire any new vehicle I have to tamper / tinker with it for learning purposes. Like all members I derive satisfaction from repairing and overcoming the challenges of diagnosis. This however is sometimes to the detriment of my bank balance as I need to resort to the professionals for breaking something that probably didn’t need attention in the first instance.

😱Oh Dear! In my attempt to remove the rear wheel bearing I have rounded the spline insert of the bolt. Did use the correct tool (XZN 16) and usual scaffold pole on 3/ 4 breaker bar. If I had an assistant should have applied forward pressure onto the bolt. Any suggestions how I can remove the offending splined bolt? Not that I possess a welder but if the xzn 16 splined tool was welded onto the bolt would that work? Thanks in anticipation Johnny