cocog

Plastic surround unclips from lower grill. Three clips, one each side and one on top. Unclip sensor, replace and refit.

Had another quick look and it looks like the two centre ones are clipped into black plastic surround which possible clips out of the grill underneath the licence plate. Hopefully should be just case of unclipping plastic without breaking it and remove sensor

Park assist failed today and code reader showing front right centre sensor as the issue. Question is can it be replaced without removing under tray with it being the one below number plate?

I don't have a dipstick but it all points to suspect level sensor. Just don't know what to believe in the meantime as scale was on max when the top up warning came on. Garage checked the amount of oil in it and there is 4.3 litres which should be where it should be. At least if it gets really low the pressure switch should come in.

Had an oil leak which had level dropping and having to top up. Level going up and down as expected. Got oil leak fixed from timing cover seal and changed oil at same time. Level showing max on scale and drive it for a week and no change in level. Then got the warning level up needing litre top up. Checked car over and no oil leaks. Topped up the oil a bit and it has reset itself. Has anyone had strange things like this happening in case it is maybe an issue with oil pressure which reads into this level. Anyone had things like this

Never found why this is the case. Replaced everything and still get hot as if they are dragging. New calipers,discs,pads and wheel bearings. Gave up to be honest

Squeaking probably more to do with pads. Maybe got glazed with caliper sticking previously

Unfortunately I never really got to the fix for this. There seems to be very small clearance for pads in rear caliper which is creating the friction. I've tried everything and nothing makes a difference. Some say after brake pad change it improves over the miles. The brakes work really well but haven't managed to get a fix

Not really easy to see but looks like may be several breaks in heater element. Thinking it may be new screen required

Stripped some bits of to check wiring and got to terminal block for rear heated screen. 12V switching on and off via switch on climate control unit so I can only assume elements have gone on the screen. 12V on strip on screen. Am I correct in assuming this? If so does anyone have an idea how much replacement rear screen would cost?

Okay thanks. I assume the connections will be behind the trim on right side of boot is that correct? I had heard there may be some filter module that it goes through as well. There are a few electronic modules in the area around fuse box but not sure what they are. Any idea about them?

Working through few repairs on my Audi A4 and one outstanding problem I have is the rear heated screen is not working. The heated mirrors work when heated screen button pressed on centre console. I have checked the 40A fuse and relay and they are okay. The screen isn't oxidised or any signs of delamination. I have also checked battery voltage which is 12.3V when static. Any ideas on what it may be before I start to strip trim out to chase things?

Totally agree can only be pads or wheel bearings that can cause friction. My gut feeling it is the pads but can't work out why they are catching. Everything on brakes brand new including caliper carrier and sliders. The only difference is the brake hoses which are aftermarket. This issue is baffling me. Would you expect the wheels to spin freely on quattro rear axle? The wheels don't spin freely like non quattro axle wheels but don't appear to be catching pads when turning them. There does appear to be some resistance which I thought would be normal. Going to strip rear brakes down again and check over but don't know what else to do.

Discs way too hot to even consider touching. You can smell the heat and the alloys are getting hot to touch. They are hotter than any rear brakes I have had on a car. Used to front discs getting hot but not the rears getting so hot and hotter than the fronts. It is electric parking brake and done through proper retraction method. The bearings haven't been changed but new backing plates fitted so hub would have been removed to do this I think. How can you tighten wheel bearings too much? Would you not notice when turning if too tight?

Garage took car a drive and checked after. Rear discs were 10 degrees hotter than fronts and wheels were turning. I guess they wouldn't spin as freely with it being quattro compared to a fwd drive. Discs and pads genuine. Aftermarket brake hoses so smaller diameter hoses it appears compared to standard ones. Wheel bearings don't show any signs of play or noise and spin freely with calipers removed. New calipers and fitted using correct EPB procedure with scan tool retraction. Both wheels the same heat so not one worse than the other. I would have said pads rubbing but garage didn't think so. Would the smaller diameter brake hoses cause any issues? The brakes are exceptionally good but could they cause any pressure problems causing caliper not to retract properly. The car had been sitting for over a year before all this work was done to put car back on road. My understanding is the front door most of braking and I've never had a car with rear discs getting as hot as this. I have even driven very carefully over short journeys hardly touching the brakes and the rears are still very hot. Looking at rear the only things are brakes and wheel bearings. Could wheel bearings cause this heat and both sides the same as each other? The wheels do turn but do spin easier after brakes pushed fully into piston. It is brand new calipers so wouldn't thing there is an issue with the pistons on both so could these aftermarket hoses be the issue? The brakes do seem to be exceptionally good compared to normal