Chris777

Ok thanks

I saw something about axle nut torque being important as sets rolling load etc for the bearing. Would you say 80 + 90° or just the 80 sorry?

Where online would you suggest please? I tried to Google but just found different sites all had different answers

Also top mount nut please if you have it

Hi guys

Got the new leg now, old one off and about to reinstall. Just waiting for new hub nut as believe stretch and only 1 time use. Im not not sure where to get all my torque ratings from if anyone can help please

Sway bar

Drop link

Lower ball joint 3 nuts

Most importantly the hub/axle nut. Seen one say 75NM and another 148NM +90degrees so a massive difference. Wanted to double check as steering and if I get wrong could be dangerous. 

Also are wheel lug nuts 125NM ?

Thats what I tried last but not Irwin was an eBay special. Will get a proper one to try last before have to drill ? Any other ideas if extractor fails again?

Oh so just unclip and clip back on? That would be easier. The one I did on a Civic was a plastic sensor that literally welded itself into the hub over time had to drill out

Will the wheel speed sensor need taking out and moving over?

Heard they can be a reet pain

Probably about 60000 I am pulling my hair out with same issue. Other 4 came out with an extension on my breaker bar but the last one will not budge now completely rounded. Those gripper sockets failed miserably too

Ok thanks 

Ive done a coil on strut before but not whole assembly amd knuckle etc. From that pic I attached of one id seen for sale, does it look like everything id need. Is the bearing there? Know i need to switch the calliper, disc and pads

Thanks mate, I'll have a bungee i normally use for the callipers, seen people use a coat hanger etc like you say take the pressure of stressing the line

Could it just be unburnt fuel around the plugs? Just throwing it out there. A3 I had when just left sitting and only run on tick over it developed like a miss then cleaned up as soon as ran again

Do I have to detach and reattach any brake lines or sensors like wheel speed etc as remember that was stuck in on my old Honda 

Can you squeeze clamp a brake line or are they ruined if try to stem them that way? 

This is the one looking at getting 

Thanks for your message was trying to get the whole leg, knuckle etc from a breakers like suggested think I've found one. The big number across the middle seems to match but the smaller code across top is slightly different so hoping will be correct double checking

I did a new track rod as was only thing visibly bent

Thanks Steve

I did new coil springs both sides on an A3 from Copart with new Rad more front end that was an N. This is CAT S but can't see any bend apron, arm or anything structural and hearing more and more of these youtubers say about miss categorising as more done by AI.

My concern is not replacing strut and top mount that was my thinking to go to next aswell its the other bit you said about absorbing the shunt. Im new to CAT S. looked for obvious bend to wishbone, strut, apron, strut tower and structural bits i can see that side but concerned now may have transferred the energy further? What would you suggest checking? Looked like little oil weep under gearbox but seems from loose oil filter as bottom mounted and its done 100k. 

Any help and pointers great fully received 

Not sure how it happened was a copart jobby. I ran the wheels in 1st on jack stands and can't see a wobble. 

Sorry that's the gap between the strut and top of the tyre

Looked at top mounts under cowl and one on damaged side looks lower and not quite straight somehow. The other non impact side seems to sit a little higher with a little gap under the top hat but seems to me a little bumper on right side. Would that make the strut sit off and make the wheel camber in. The gap should be be about 14mm by looks and damaged side is approx 6mm

Hi Gareth

Thanks for reply. 

Nothing on the chassis leg i can see looks straight as. Impact looks to top of wheel into wing but just under bonnet luckily but didn't even scratch the apron.. it puzzled me a little why track rod was bent lower down as impact looked top of wheel.  How do you go about diagnosing which bit it is thats damaged?

Is there any movement on the lower wish balljoint nuts that will track back couple %

How is camber adjusted in these?

Appreciate your help

Hi Can someone help please

I just bought a 65 plate face lift A1 S Line 8X.

It has had a bit of an accident front n/s corner.

The top of the tyre camber is pointing in. I have changed the track rod as was bent, but not sure what to change to sort that camber its at approx 5 degrees. As the tyre is only a few mill from the shock. Can anyone help, please

Lol looks like I've watched one of his videos before on how to fix the fuel flap sticking, another common one 😂

https://youtu.be/3204cavV4iM?si=_ccNMfSZmmE6PzNE

Got you, thanks mate, thought you meant the noise was turbo related, sorry.

Did anyone have a look at yours for a 2nd opinion etc?

29 minutes ago, enc said:

Well mines still doing it. It hasnt got any worse.
theres a YouTuber (link below) and his car appears to do it also ; heard in a couple of his videos) I’m not saying it’s normal but it seems to be common. Let us know if you get it sorted.  
 

 

That video is a blown turbo like whistles or whirrs when you rev it, engine management light on and losing oil, I have none of those symptoms. I have exact match to your first post. No worries if you didn't get to the bottom of it mate, thanks for your message though

Mine just seems to over run on starter motor, prob 2 secs after engine fires. Seen others saying it's as starter motor wears the engagement onto the fly wheel doesn't release and withdraw as quick as it should, which sounds like makes sense. Mentions recondition or replace starter just wanted to see if you got yours sorted as either way over £150 if a simple fix possible