B7RS4

Been a while! So to wrap up this thresd it was the rectifier pack on the alternator that was causing the drain. Alternator changed and all codes deleted that arrose from diagnosis now she has been fine for a few months. It did destroy the battery tho which was a pain. Thank you for all the advice! Nice to ger it out the garage every now and again for a run! Next job im thinking is seeing how the carbon build up is. Doesnt seem to effect the running as it ticks over like silk.

I will try and get this done next, thank you for the advice.

No I have not had the battery coded yet until the car has decided not to drain it. Fuse 38 out drops it down alot? I will do a bit more investigation tonight. 12.8v in battery and when running ticking at 14v with slight drop and climb as expected with a healthy alternator.

So booked it into garage and they did some chasing, couldn't pin it down but said it may be a module behind the dash? I then went to see a guy who has owned a few and he said he would have a look for a grand up front! Please see screen shot from diagnosis carried out by the garage. Central locking? I've had all relays fuses out including the ones under the bonnet. Starter relays the lot! Central locking or imobilizer? Bose amp? Something didn't like being unplugged for 2 months!

The Bluetooth thing was a no go, I'm going to disconnect alternator and id its still there I'll book it in. Thanks for all the advice. The plug crack would of been fine it was still secure just missing a bit. Bought a new one for 6 quid and spliced it in. Still drawing 1.4 amps with radio fuse out so its not that. Garage it is!

While the car is trying to sleep it sits at about 4 amps then after a few minutes drops and settles at 1.4 amps. I'm going to remove radio fuse and see if it goes away and if it does, rip out the Bluetooth and get an aftermarket headunit

Just talked to a guy who said it could be the Bluetooth until trying to find my phone? Could be the 1.4amp draw?

The only time I have had it to 0.05 amps is when both alternator and starter leads disconnected. I'm just wondering if the starter was drawing the power. So last night I left it with all connected and it was drawing 1.4 amps. Then jacked the car up and disconnected then 3 starter leads and left it. Still drawing 1.4 amps. Tonight I'm going to just remove the alternator plugs and see if it still draws 1.4 amps at rest. If it does i can't be those items. It must be something else. If it drops to 0.05 when alternator plugs removed I'm assuming its the alternator which was fine before any did any poly belts and starter work. I'm just thinking its something ice touched hence my reluctance to think it was the battery or alternator. The only other thing I can think is maybe the engine mount? Could it be inducing a fault seen as that plug has been off? Could remove that fuse to see if the drawing goes?

Last post on this as its boring now. New battery fitted. Starter disconnected, drawing 1.4 amps locked out sleeping. Disconnect starter. Still draws the same. Connect it all back up with a new plug as its casing was smashed and glued together. Wire still connects fine just cosmetic. Still drawing 1.4 amps. Booking into garage for someone who is a little more savvy with electrics to pin point the draw. Thanks for all the advice but I'm not taking it to bits for a 3rd time. Need some direction before stripping again

Just tested all relays and are fine. Car is sat now locked with new battery let's see if the draw drops off once its fully asleep?

Which one is the starter relay? All videos or links ive used all have different ones! Thanks in advance

Just bought a new one and going to install it tonight. Leave it and see if it drains again! If it does its going in to a garage that specialise in finding Eletrical faults. Then I'll follow their advice. Wish I still had my VAG reader.

so i thought it had been sorted. after i took the advice i locked the boot manually and lock it up , leave 20 mins and no draw 0.05 at most, starter back on , everything back on wire wise. left for 48 hours and flat again. Before i play it safe and put on a new starter and battery i need to know whats draining it! when battery is charged if i lock car and leave as normal but remove the starter relay then i know its the starter? I cant change the battery / starter and alternator just on an hunch, when they were all working fine before the strip. all that came off the alternator was the earth and small plug, the same for starter earth, main plug and small plug. car starts fine it just doesn't fully sleep when locked up. tomorrow charged battery back on with starter relay removed, if it holds charge, change starter relay. if still draining im stuck.

starter motor out all leads disconnected from alternator, still drawing 1 amp when doors closed and just boot open to get to battery. radio fuse removed, I'm thinking it must be the immobiliser? at least i can reinstall starter and reattach alternator leads. something is stealing my amps when at rest

I will disconnect the alternator and see if the draw drops off, If it does then it might be the alternator leads. Yes if it does in fact begin being a pain i will get it booked in somewhere and bite the bullet. Also i have nothing after market on the car that has been installed since it was working fine.

Evening all, soooo (bangs head on coffee table) As you are aware by now i,m more mech based then electrical! below are images from multi meter connect in series with the battery. 4.48 is with all fuses in 1.86 is with just the radio fuse removed. |( not sure why the radio would be a problem now?) with the loose starter earth removed made no difference, all fuses out has no draw at all which is expected i assume. It has to be something i have fiddled with? the heat shield from the engine mount was touching the back of the alternator point so not sure if that would have an impact? immobiliser? how do i check that? i haven't taken any plugs off the back of the alternator yet so not sure if that is drawing power? that will be my next job, leave all fuses in and just disconnecting alternator to see if the draw drops. After that i'm not sure where to go? Thanks in advance.

perfect thanks, I've jacked her back up and found a slightly loose starter earth but surely that wouldn't be it. i will disconnect the alternator plug and check the draw. ill keep you updated. i will have closer look at the multi meter to get the amps in the correct power. seen as i've only fiddled with the starter i assumed it would be that but alternator could be a shout.ill update tomorrow once ive had a fiddle about.

So how it started (no pun intended). Drove the RS4 for about 400 miles on and off and no dramas really. 1st problem - Starter partially engaged a few times (horrible noise) then started fine. 2nd Problem - Squealing poly belt on tick over (still working but annoying.) decided to take the car off the road for a few months and do both jobs. Anyone looking to do any of these jobs be aware it a little more work then your average. 1) poly belt, jack car up and take belly pan etc off. Then you need to slide the front of the car forward, (Audi S4 4.2l alternator belt and tensioner replacement DIY by Edge Motors) Fog lights out Bumper off watch the video! easy job but make sure you have a long pole or breaker bar to take tension off belt. NEXT Starter motor, (what a !Removed! of a job) Audi RS4 B7 - 4.2 V8 - Starter Motor change One of the engine mounts Allen bolts near the exhaust is a pain but doable. Stripped and cleaned starter motor. engaging shaft was all carboned up, cleaned and lubed and works like a dream out of the car. heat shield was put back on but maybe not as well as it was when i took it off due to its age. (Might be a problem) So poly belt installed and works fine Starter motor works every time ............................. When the car is warm after a run it wont start. Clutch pedal down (audible click) and no joy, Leave the car for 10/15 mins to cool down starts straight away! Assuming the heat shield may be making the starter solenoid overheat and not sure if it tells the car not to start if its to hot? Also if car now left locked up over night it drains the battery. 1) Charged battery and it hold charge fine. leave it disconnected over night and didnt lose any charge 2) did a parasitic draw check. car unlocked and drivers door open, drawing about 4 milli amps removed all relays from under steering wheel and no change to draw. car running battery doesnt drop so alternator is charging. 3) Once locked and left it drops to 1.6 milliamps is this bad? my thoughts are before i did starter and poly belt it was fine so its something i have done. Any ideas what may be drawing? Bad earth from starter? Bad cables from starter? Heat shield hot starter sending signal? bad earth or something not on properly attached? any help would be appreciated. Plan on getting the car back on axle stands and getting access to the starter again, check all the plugs and leads wrap exhaust near the starter and try and make a better deal with the heatshield. Hopefully i notice something!

Evening everyone, Starter solenoid went so decided to change myself. If anyone is tempted to give this a go here are some tips. Make sure you have tools and axle stands or its a tough job. I couldn't get it out without taking the engine mount. Some good videos on YouTube. The hardest part is one of the Allen bolts from the top engine mount that is obscured by the exhaust. The other top one is accessible with lots of extensions and a Wobblies. Looking for a part number for the stretch bolts (x3 18m main bolts) Any help would be apreciated.

Ill get it plugged in thanks

Thanks for the reply, it seems bad when cold but when warmed up , in S or not it just pulls well for as long as i need it to but sometimes feels a little missfireish? traction control light doesn't flicker and it makes no difference if i turn it off. its not really bad but noticeable, maybe pulling through from say 2k to 6k its a little lumpy but then when its on its at the top end its fine. not sure if it fuel filter? pump? or it is the really bang average tyres it came with? maybe its just an aged v8?

Looking at any advice on slightly lumpy power delivery under power, not sure if it is the tyres, fuel pump, any ideas or checks i could do to maybe fix this? its not bad just a little annoying sometimes.