Charlie1001

Hey Cliff and thanks for your reply. Yeah I do agree that these diagnostic computers esp the vcds do make our lives far easier but are we nothing without them? What about the days before we had these electronic hand holding devices, surely if you know engines then you'd have a reasonable grasp of what the problem is before plugging in the diagnostic to confirm. I'm from the days of buying a workshop manual (Haynes) and cracking on with it. I want to believe that there are home mechanics out there with the knowledge without always having to refer back to a diagnostic computer... You understand? Maybe they've all grown old and retired who knows.

So I reckon it could be a duff ecu or perhaps the loom going from ecu to the injectors. Car sometimes starts, sounds really rough. Looking from the front of the car 3 injectors on the right and 3 on the left. All three on the left if I pull the connectors off the injectors and there's no change in the engine tone... Still runs but no more rough. 3 injectors on the right, one at the front if I pull off the connector it runs a little more rough almost stalling... Injector in the middle pull off connector and no change, injector to the rear I pull off the connector and stops engine immediately. I'm not that great at electrics, I have tried to back probe the the connectors from the injectors and not really sure what I need to look out for... I'm at a loss guys... Sorry for the sob story but it's hard trying to raise 2 young autistic kids, fighting the council for a larger than 1 bedroom place and trying to fix the car to take my boys on some days out.. Can someone help please it would be great.. Or if anyone is local to SE7 in London that can lend a hand it'd be amazing.

Yeah I agree about needing the battery coded and I will sort it. My last battery was fine for 5 years until I stopped using the car despite never having coded it to the car. Someone on vwaudiforumsaid years ago said that the car would work out that it's got a new battery but regardless I still agree it's best to code it. A noid light is an led that you plug into the injector connector with the engine running to check what pulse if any is being sent to the injector.

Hey Fellas Didn't get anything done over the school holiday with 2 little kids... So back at it now. I haven't got anything that can code the battery to the car atm so I'm working my way through what Im pretty certain are issues. I've got the misfire on one bank and want to find out if an injector is bad or wiring or ecu. The resistance of each injector was the same but I couldn't find out what the tolerance should be online but if they're the same I guess they're OK. Next I was checking the wiring with a noid light in the injector connectors. One thing I found was that the pins inside the connectors are very loose... How tightly should they grip the pins of the injector? because my connector pins have a wide gap and must barely touch the injector pins. Anyhow.... When I unplugged one injector the engine just idled a bit rougher... (I had trouble finding in the UK on an audi v6 3.0 which side is Group A injectors!... I think group A is passenger side.. Pls advise if wrong) Anyway Group A injectors bank 2 cylinders 4, 5, 6 (I hope)... Took connector off 4 and it idled a bit more rough.. same with cylinder 5 but each time I unplug 6 the engine dies straight away. Any ideas why? Then I used the noid light on 4,5 and 6... It flickered a bit on 4 then stopped and nothing for 5 and 6. I'm not sure if the noid light is defective (it's new) or if it's because the pins in the loom connectors are so weak they barely touch the pins from the nlid light... Of course I try wiggling the noid light pins around to help them make contact with the connector but nothing, no pulsing... But THEN when I plug em back in the engine idles better (except cylinder 6 because it always stalls when connector removed) Agghhh it's a nightmare.... Gotta get the car working, my 7 year old was asking again today how long it'll take 😞 Any help is much appreciated, really. Thanks

Well I haven't got an obd2 scanner that's good enough to code a battery. I'm trying to keep costs low so don't wanna fork out for vcds though I may look into an obdeleven as have heard that it's cheaper. The scanner I was using gave code 04160 injector in bank 1 open circuit. I've checked the injectors for resistance and they're all OK. The fuses that I've checked (left hand side of dash & under the main ecu in scuttle tray area) are all OK. Perhaps I've got corrosion in wires to injector so I'll check them once my back probing needles arrive. I haven't unplugged the ecu because the 2 large connectors that are locked into the ecu seem a bit daunting to unplug... Seems I'd need to replace the bolts if I remove the racket. Anyhow in the plastic box that houses the ecu I can't see any water or corrosion... Nothing dodgy. I am not sure which injector is having problems, I was going to listen with a long screwdriver for the tapping spring in the injectors but unfortunately the engine wouldn't start. If I can get it started then I'll have a go at that, then borrow a noid light to see if the injectors are receiving a pulse signal from the ecu. Thanks for giving your time to try and help btw 👍🏻

Thanks for trying to help Steve. Well when i replaced the battery in 2017 i read that it is normal practice to code the battery to the car but i didnt have any vcds or scanner to code it. Some guys said not to worry and that the car would work out it had a new battery so long as its identical. I didnt have any problems with the car for 4 year till i parked it up. So now i put another new Silver dynamic Varta in and assume itll be fine although if i do get my hands on an adequate scanner ill code it to the car. Better safe then sorry eh. re water in the car, well i havent felt the footwell carpets to know but i will check tomorrow and get back to you. i was really concerned with the water that built up in the section under the windscreen wiper assembly if there was any important wiring down there thats possibly ESP/ABS related or something else. its telling me code 04160 about the injectors but when revved there is no smoke or bad smells. Dont know if thats an inducator.. im really bad with electrics…im more an old pre ecu car mechanic guy haha… where is the ecu anyhow? Thanks again.

So when the mayor decided the latest way to squeeze money out of us motorists would be with a ULEZ i thought nope, cant afford £12.50 a day so i parked up the car and applied for the scrappage. The wife, kids and I can just settle for taking the bus when needed. That was 3 and a half years ago. I got stiffed on the scrappage so car has sat since then uncovered. Now we all hate walking/taking the bus (now with a new baby and pushchair!) and we really miss our beautiful A6. Car was working fine when originally parked up, but its been left to the elements. I know the partition at the back of the engine/bottom of windscreen has been half full with water due to the drain hole beng blocked. So i put some fresh diesel with injector cleaner in the tank, got a new battery identicle to the previous battery. Car started fine but sounds like an old tractor, something is clearly up. Also engine sounds a bit like its being tapped with a hammer. It starts with a little push of the throttle then idles on its own, sounds awful at idle but with a little revs sounds much better. Wont rev higher than 4k. Tried to drive it and car wont rev and has no power. Didnt wanna go in reverse or steer but after a but of use those things improved. The glow plug light is flashing and the traction control (car with squiggly lines underneath) light is also on. Codes being pulled with a scanner are 05715 - Active/static Read DTC memory of ABS cm. 04160 - Active/static Injector group A supply voltage, electrical malfunction in circuit. 01826 - Steering angle sensor G85 voltage supply terminal 30 tbd. 00003 - Active/static Control module, no or incorrect basic setting adaptation. It was showing this code (04120) earlier and i put alot of work into researching it and was gonna start taking out the inlet manifolds with an aim to fit refurbished ones or get the kit to fit new flaps etc, but then today i scanned car again a few times and its not showing the 04120 code anymore. So guys what do you reckon, an electrical problem or an injector problem? Yeah i was stupid not to cover the car, i had a lot of family issues, new baby and my mum passed away so the car went on the back burner. Now i really wanna take my 8 year old to car shows and santa pod and days out to the seaside etc so i need this car on the road sharpish…please can you help? Car is a A6 C6 3.0 tdi ASB engine 2008.