cmr

Thanks Russell - will see how I get on over the next few weeks - really need it to be warmer to see if the radiator path opens as expected.

I thought I'd give an update.... I've had the coolant system to pieces and flushed more sand out. Also had the pump off and checked that out. The actuator moved when powered (Pins 4 & 5 on the connector are the direct motor connections) so i left it with the valves open to the radiator and re-fitted it and then left the connector unplugged. The engine is definitely pushing coolant through the radiator and eventually got to arounf 60C (It's cold at present so probably to be expected) As soon as I plugged the pump back in it was heard to move to the closed position and the coolant temp came up to 90C and stayed there. From cold it does get to 90C within about a mile so I suspect that the radiator path is now closed. Anyway we'll drive it for a while and see if the P00B700 - Engine Coolant Flow Low/Performance fault re-appears - I fully expect it to.... I'd like to know from Russell - which OEM pump manufacturer did you go for in the end? I suspect that this pump is just marginal when it comes to the thermostat temperature values which the control unit isn't happy with.

I'm suffering from the same problem. My original 2014 water pump failed - leaking. Had it replaced by an independant and that failed (motor) after about 4 months. They replaced it and ever since it's been flagging P00B700 - Engine Coolant Flow Low/Performance faults when you drive for a reasonable time (ie engine fully up to temperature), then stop for a short period then go again. After 3 of these it goes into limp home mode. If I reset the fault it clears... They had it back again and flushed the coolant system with a cleaner and found (to my surprise) sand in the system - casting sand from when it was built which we suspect has been dislodged when they vacuum extracted the coolant on the first water pump change. I've subsequently had the coolant system to pieces as the lower radiator hose wasn't getting hot. The car isn't overheating (runs at 90C on the gauge) but that may be just the time of year. There's no coolant flow through the radiator (which passes water without a problem as I've flushed it and got more sand out) I reckon the new pump is either broken or jammed up with sand and I plan to have that out and examine it for blockages and hopefully test it. So I finally get to my question - does anyone have the pinout/wiring diagram for the 5 pin coolant pump which would the allow me to run it on the bench and see if it's actually jammed or broken - I've read that a jammed pump can break the motor connecting rod/spindle. Any advice / schematic much appreciated.