AudiMickey

Where would you start looking first then?

OK, I am now getting pretty disillusioned with this car... After fixing the ABS Pump, Turbo, Brake Caliper, and a faulty NSF Crash Sensor, now i have an issue with the electric windows on both sides. After bleeding the brakes, i took the car out for a test drive and all was well, i wound down the passenger window halfway and then the drivers one all the way, got it back into the workshop and now none of them work at all??? I have changed the 30amp fuse behind the knee panel under the steering wheel and nothing. I just dont get it, the electric mirrors work, the central locking works so what the hell is up with it now?? I find it hard to believe that both electric window motors have gone although at the same time? Any help or advice on what to look at next would be most appreciated?

Hi All, I have recently replaced these (and yes the adjustable bolts are a B**ch to get out)!! However i now need to track the vehicle so that i can drive it to the garage in order to get it tracked properly. (slight oversight on my part as I didnt think about the tracking until after i had replaced them!) Any ways i have now took it off my ramp and took it on a drive and by gosh its all over the place, is there any "tricks of the trade to get these arms even remotely tracked up? or do i need some witchcraft? Thanks in advance for any help and suggestions!

Are you sure you have no loss of cooant from the header tank?

Just to update this thread, i have now cleared the code after reinstalling the pump and bleeding the brakes and hey presto the fault code has gone, However i still have the ESP light on as there is a Steering Angle Sensor Fault and also the airbag light on as i have a fault NSF crash sensor!!!! Someone tell me when this nightmare will end!! I will soldier on and update again soon!!

Hi Cliff, Apologies I now own an A3 (need to update info on profile) anyway as it turns out the fuses in question are ok, the airbag light is on due to the NSF Crash Sensor (i have the fault code for this) and the ESP and Power Steering light is on due to the Steering Angle Sensor?...................... I give up. Do you know what the code E20 relates to? Something about a interior dimmer light I believe? Any help would be appreciated?

Hi cliff, I think this is for the a4? Regards Mkckey

Hi all can anyone point me in the right direction, I am looking for the fuse for the ABS/ESP? apparently it's housed in the fuse box near the battery, but unsure which one? PLEASE HELP!

Hi guys, I'm back on again trying to gleen more info from some of you guys if at all possible? I have had the abs pump/module reconditioned as I had the dreaded esp light come on and stay on. They confirmed as did a code read that it was the brake pressure switch that was faulty. Anyways I have now refitted the pump and module back in and have a few question? Does this need programming? And how is it best to bleed the system? I have filled the Resevior and put a pressure bleeder on but get no fluid at any caliper?? As ever your advice would be appreciated?

Oh and the oil pressure light was due to me being a numpty. I hadn't plugged the switch back in properly!!

Hi Dan, Before I contacted the turbo supplier I ran the vehicle up for a good half an hour to 45 mins..... Then switched off and left for another half an hour, checked oil level and had not used any oil at all which led me to believe that the oil that was coming out was what was in the exhaust from the previous turbo failure. So needless to say the only way to properly test it was running it back up to temp, and then letting it heat up.to the point where the oil was burning off in the exhaust. After this I put a bucket under the exhaust and give it the beans a few times and probably got another litre out of it...... the vehicle now doesn't smoke, no coolant or oil loss and ticks over beautifully..... only thing is now is to sort out why the traction control light is on! Thanks for all your help and advise Dan3222. It is very much appreciated

HI Guys, Right quick update, its all BAD!!! Fitted a new recon turbo, filled with fresh oil, and started the car, left it ticking over for a good 15 mins and considerably less smoke than before........so far so good...... so thought i would then give it some revs and all of the Oil..... i would say a good 1.5 litres came out of the exahust?? WHY??? Oil pressure light also came on dash? I am really really down about it now and considering giving up? Any help would definitely be appreciated?

Hi Dan Thanks for the reply. The turbo and manifold is now off. There is lots of oil in the exhaust side of the turbo so there is a clear issue here, had some issues actually getting the turbo/manifold out into the open as I didn't take out the OSF driveshaft......... someone told me it came out through the exhaust tunnel?? Anyway I'll get all the gaskets and turbo replaced, clean all the oil up and report back.

Hmmm yes I was thinking exactly the same, however would injector seals explains the copius amounts of oil it is burning? Would it explain why there is oil in the tailpipe?? Not sure what to think anymore lol. As for the cost to strip I would be doing it myself as I have access to a ramp. Your thoughts on the above would be appreciated, also the smoke could of been a greyish white if that makes any difference. By the way the coolant has not moved since day 1??

Hi Guys, Just a quick update, I took the vehicle out for a drive and i have no boost at all, and copious amounts of smoke, so i can only assume now that the turbo has gone. I am going to replace the turbo and then see how i go from there, however before i go and buy a brand new turbo can anyone advise if i could just replace the cartridge, a new cartridge is like £65 and a new turbo is circa £200?? so the cheapest option would be to replace the cartridge???