QuattroMark

I have had exactly the same issue with my B7 - First of all, does the PRND panel on the dashboard light up - if it does its likely to be one of the solenoids IN the gearbox - that condition would also register a fault code - As stated in a previous post you need to get your car scanned for fault codes, it can save you many hours searching. My particular fault when I lost drive was a leaking hydraulic pipe for the transmission cooler - eventually there was not enough oil left to drive - THIS DID NOT GENERATE A FAULT CODE. I had a filter change and fluid change ( its doable for a home mechanic) but I would get a garage to do it - unfortunately you will need an Audi specialist or dare I even say a main dealer.......its quite a specific routine. There are many Audi auto gearbox repairers out there - do a google search, most of them seem to be in the Birmingham area! ...and just for reference, when you say diagnosed as a clutch problem - which one? - there are SEVEN clutches in your auto box good luck Mark

So just an update to this topic - changed injector #1 cleaned out the messed up EGR and the car now idles really smooth - my only issue now is that when I start the car It sounds a little noisy, but relatively smooth - readings shown below: Take a look at group 3 - especially block#4......... After about 4 minutes there is a noticeable change in engine note - and this is what I get : For some reason the EGR duty cycle goes through the roof - as does block 2 & 3 - the car is still at idle @903 rpm - if I blip the throttle then the readings go back to around the same as on start up....after 4 mins it reverts back to the same as above. Any ideas ?

Hi Martin, My 2.0l BLB engine sounds exactly like yours - It didn't before the remap, started about 18 months ago - I didn't have my egr blanked off, but the remap has certainly affected it as the readings on VCDS are all over the place - I know you have had the EGR removed, but look at block 4 in group 3 under ENGINE in VCDS - is it at 100% all the time? And also, the cam lobes look fine to me - as for the timing, your torsion value is 0.5 so I cant see how your timing can be out - one thing that made a difference to mine was when I reset the backlash on the injectors after replacing one of them - I'm hopefully going to see a diesel specialist next week for him to try and figure out what is causing the noise - spoke to him over the phone and he seems quite confident !!! Mark

So, got the starter motor put on by a tame spanner monkey yesterday - what a difference! you can just tell by the sound of the new starter that the old one must have been totally shot - car starts within a second of turning the key, unlike the 3 seconds previously. Not had chance to see the old unit yet - i'll try and get to see what state it was in tomorrow. Mark

Hi Gareth, You've got the jist of what I am talking about - It wouldn't start again last night(20 mins) and this morning (10 mins) just making the same old whirring noise with the very occasional clunk of it meshing with the flywheel for a split second before stopping. Had a mechanic mate have a listen to it last night - he is convinced its a tired starter motor. Going to get one ordered and get the garage next door to work to put it on - I would do it but I just don't have the time. Dan, - good point! - I'll have a look around later thanks guys Mark

Hi Gareth Battery is new - well, 3 months old! - I understand your theory of a potential duff battery, I had it with my Quattro turbo - It span the engine, but JUST not quite quick enough for it to start. This however just sounds like the starter spinning on its own - I doubt there are missing teeth on the flywheel - otherwise it would never have started - the car is 2005 and has done nearly 250K miles, so it should kind of be expected. Possibly all the grease/lubrication has dried out. Might try and see if I can get underneath and squirt a WD40 like fluid in it to see if it helps - I don't have the 2 hrs to remove it right now!! Mark

Diesel !

Hi Bradley I have full VCDS, however there is no fault code generated. I also seem to remember that the starter on a B7 is not the easiest thing to get to. I have tried to start it a couple of times earlier today (while engine still hot) and it was ok - lets see what happens when I try later tonight on a totally cold car. Mark

So I've had a busy weekend with the A4 - cleaning EGR, changing injectors and such like - but it seems I now have a completely different and I think unrelated problem. After been smug with myself yesterday for curing a very lumpy tickover, the car would not start this morning. When I turned the key the starter motor operated but it was like it was not engaging with the flywheel - tried it several times, occasionally it sounded to engage with the flywheel for a second or so then I would just hear the starter turning. This went on for 20 minutes - eventually it fired up and ran faultlessly. Does this sound like the starter motor shaft not extending far enough? Mark

So once I sat down and thought about this, I realised there wouldn't be any 'slack' to take up - the adjustment screw is purely there to allow for expansion due to heat. I was presuming it was there to adjust when the injectors get pressurised...DOH! Anyway, car runs much better now and the injector deviation quantities are much closer than before. As a precaution I also stripped and cleaned the EGR - what a load of gunk in there! - I am getting spurious readings on VCDS regarding the duty cycle - even at idle it sits at 99.9% where it should be 60-90%. All readings regarding the EGR are out of spec - I am now thinking this is to do with the remap I had a few years ago. Mark

So moving on from a previous thread........I have now replaced what has been described as a faulty injector. Bit of a swine to get out, but finally managed to do it - replaced the 'faulty ' injector with a replacement and put everything back together. Now the tricky bit - I came to set up the injector cam and found that when the cam is at its highest position the lobe is already being pushed tight against the top of the injector, so I can't wind the adjustment screw in to take up any 'slack' - Ive also noticed that this is the same for the other (untouched) injectors - this doesn't seem right to me

I've just noticed that your earlier post says your Torsion value is -0.5. Is yours a BRB engine? - if so spec for that should be 0 to 0.5. Mark

any update with the gearbox mount? Interestingly my car has been laid up for 3 days while I have been away, started it up this morning and it ran like a dream - not the slightest bit of judder.

The thing is is that it is not constantly like this - sometimes all the injectors are round about .09 and the car runs fine.

Those figures look fine - I have 1 cylinder which is hitting 2.99!!!

Have a look at Group13 in the Engine tab in VCDS - this will give you the injection quantities deviation - The figures should always be pretty close to each other - anywhere from -0.5 to +0.5 is good. If you have an injector problem it will show something upwards of 2.0

The belt is coming up to 60K miles - Just out of curiosity....how do you check and adjust the timing with VCDS?

Hi Darren, I was under the impression that it was not possible to change the timing in VCDS - because it is a PD car - there is a Torsion Value measurement ( see below) which will give an indication if it is out - I believe there is a small amount of adjustment on the pulley which can bring this value back into tolerance- however, not had chance to see this yet so I am prepared to be shot down in flames!! The Torsion Value of -0.5KW is within tolerance so it seems the timing is ok. However, Injection Quantity is all over the place, cylinder 1 hit 2.99 mg/str at one point - I checked EGR measurements, again they seem to be all over the place. You can just see (before it faded away) what the specification should be at idle - its miles off. Possibly have a clogged EGR?? This screen shot shows how excessively out it is. Finally did some Advanced measuring on the cylinders, you can clearly see cylinder 1 is wrong. I'm going to do a Purge clean of the injectors to see if this helps - I'll also pull the EGR and clean it Mark

I stumbled across an independent Audi specialist at the weekend - he took 1 look at my A4 and said that I needed the timing belt changing - he had seen this issue many times and went onto tell me EXACTLY what my symptoms were when the car wasn't even running - 'apparently' my issue is with the exhaust valve timing - you need to use something like VCDS to complete the timing belt install. Anybody heard of this? - surely the exhaust valve timing cant be out on its own - only a change in the cam lobes could facilitate this? Is there a function on VCDS that checks timing? Mark

Thanks Steve - I'll certainly try and get to more shows with the Quattro!

No problems with the oil pump Darren - and to be honest I did think about cam lobe wear but the noise is not constant, it changes....need to have a look at it really-

Thanks Trevor - she is my pride and joy, had her 24 years now!!!

I'll stick more up later - oddly enough I don't have ANY on my phone!

Taken at a recent classic-audi meet - mines the 1 on the left - the other is a stunning example of a non turbo quattro

She's just about to come upto 225K!!! - gets well looked after - oil and filters every 9000 miles - generally bomb proof!!