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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/27/2024 in all areas

  1. Finally this issue has been explained in a simple manner. I've been chasing a leak in my GTI with the same engine and haven't found anyone explain it the way you did. Thanks for this and I did subscribe and like this! Thanks man, take care Kodi
    1 point
  2. Good Morning Mick. Gareth is definitely right. We both paid Audi an armful of money for these GT's. So they should look after their product. However, I found that when mine was new you had to be sure that the charge plug was fully home in the socket and that there was no tension on the charge cable. I have had mine nearly a year now and the charge port and plug fit nice and smoothly. Tony
    1 point
  3. Hi its the sealing ring, most likely they did not change it with the unit problem being that you have to buy the seal separately and they are quite expensive, its either the seal or they have damaged the locking ring that holds the pump in when they re tightened it, the third hole looks like a breather, easiest way to check is get a small length of wire and push it into the hole and see if it bottoms out, if it does its the seal. Steve.
    1 point
  4. Hi Joss, You went large with the 550! The Audi is a really nice car, but its main advantages are being younger, less miles, less tatty and better maintained than the E61 - which I couldn't justify spending money on towards the end. Although the BMW had more BHP (when it was new) than the Audi, the supercharger + quattro means the acceleration is certainly quicker with the 3.0. In my reality, that's better than the silky smooth 100mph+ cruising that the V8 was clearly capable of, because I live nowhere near an Autobahn. It's hard to beat the E61 for space, comfort, handling and looks that really aged well (do you remember how controversial the Chris Bangle styling was when they first came out?). Comparisons on fuel economy are striking, but boring. Even the standard MMI amps/speakers in the Audi are a big improvement of the BMW (standard) audio - and the Audi has Bluetooth/Aux. I was using a cigarette-lighter FM transmitter in the BMW! I decided to wait until my insurance came up for renewal to see what the bump would be for declaring the chip tuning as a modification. Although I must say that, after over a thousand very pleasurable miles, I've been chasing an overheating issue in the Audi for the last few days (thermostat and/or poor seal from cheap after-market expansion tank cap I think). So I'm giving more consideration to reliability and being gentle to the car alongside the previous thought of "seems a bit silly not to unlock an extra 100 bhp for a few hundred quid! " as you eloquently put it! Thanks for the conversation and I'll check out Phantom Tuning. Cheers
    1 point
  5. Turns out the Haynes book threw me a red herring on the ACE engine the mid shaft only runs the oil pump, therefore no need to have a timing point on the cog. I found this out after rotating it with my hot wire rig setup but nothing was happening and the wires to the coil from my golf were getting hot. I even took off the distributor cap and sure enough the arm was not moving. Even I found another string on the net that has a sketch of a hole by the bell housing that should show a timing mark, however that was not moving. Then I went back to Haynes and looked up distributor where I found, I quote “ACE and AAR engines, the distributor is located on the right hand of the engine and is driven off the rear of the camshaft. After finding out my cam belt was 2 teeth out, I put all back together again, indecently the distributor cap had a mount bolt loose, that would not help. I manually cranked the engine over, no issues. Started on the button idled fine up to 60 degrees where the engine started to search again, but not as bad as before. I just instinctively unplugged the isv and she purred like a cat at just over 1k and was rock solid, plugged isv back in and the searching came back, new one on order. I turned off the car, and waited 5 minutes but she would not fire up. Back to Haynes for inspiration and eventually I found a problem that I feel is the root cause,…. The connector on the loom to Part OEM 034919369C has been wired wrongly, not only that somebody tried to correct the fault by forcing the two parts upside down and the new connector is also broken. I have found a you tube person who prints new ones as the connector is no longer available. 3-pin connector 893971974. Has anyone got a wiring diagram for the correct wires to locations they could show to me so I can get this faux pas sorted out. I feel close to getting this car running the way she should again, what an interesting day I have had.
    1 point
  6. Hi I would definitely get some body in that line of work to look at it and tell you realtime what's been done, never been a fan of mapping as half the clowns out there have no idea what they are doing or what the long term implications of their work is, are you still getting codes? Steve.
    1 point
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