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Ste Kelly

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Ste Kelly last won the day on March 31 2019

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  • First Name
    Stephen
  • Location
    Dublin
  • Audi Model
    A4 B6 Cabrio
  • Audi Year
    2005

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  1. Only just realised when I saw your reply that I never really fleshed out my post re the battery 🙂 . I just mentioned it then forgot that I intended to say more. Yeah, it was only meant as a stopgap because I had it there so I could check all was working to avoid another dead battery situation after buying a new one. Hopefully there's a relatively simple fix for the starting issue. Cheers.
  2. Hi folks. Having an issue with my 05 1.8 Cabrio (auto). Its been off the road since around Sept when I got my work van. Battery died around Christmas and shortly after I disconnected the leads and tried to recharge the battery with no luck. So the other day I got an (I think, I'll have to go check) 027 battery that we recently took out of the missus Touran when it went to be scrapped (its a brand new battery I had just got for it) and decided to start the car. All seemed to go ok for a second, got it hooked up and went to start the car , it starts but then cuts out after about 2 seconds. Thats all it will do. Anyone have any ideas on what it could be? The remote locking wont work, but I was expecting that. I did try a couple of the resynch techniques I found with a google but no joy and I out 2 new batteries in them. Cheers. Ste
  3. My issue is that I cant seem to get any recommendations for somewhere. I'm in Ireland. I've tried a couple of different motoring forums here and no one seems to know anywhere I can go.
  4. Update , but not in the sense anything got sorted. On closer inspection, the roof is actually sitting to the right so is off on the side to side axis rather than up and down. On the drivers side, where it sits properly in the seal, the roof is sitting a few mm outside the A pillar and on the passenger side its sitting a few mm inside, so im guessing this is the issue. Im still at the point where I need to try adjusting the roof to move it left so Im going to see about stripping back the headliner at the back and seeing if theres any adjustment in it.
  5. Yeah, I've tried it a couple of ways. Putting pressure as it's closing as well as when it's closed seeing will it click down but no joy, it springs back up. Im remembering now that when I first got it there was a bit of a clunk when operating the roof, but I'm nearly sure it was the roof storage area cover and it was fouling on the hinges, I've memories of taking plastic covers off them and not having issues anymore. I do most things myself on my cars so I'm not above diy'ing it if it's something that can be adjusted. I'm wondering if I pay for some access to one of the sites that let you use etka (any recommendations?) And had the mechanism diagram in front of me is there something I can adjust.
  6. Cheers. My issue is trying to find someone competent here (Ireland) that knows what they are doing. The lock seems to be working, I can see it operating just as it closes. Whats happening is just at the point the driver side gets to the point its down and the 2 locks start moving to lock in under the pins in the top of the windscreen, the passenger side is visibly higher. This is a video I took of the passenger side. When the rain stops Ill get another one from the back seat showing the full width
  7. Getting back to this after more than a year. Roof is still the same but now Im frequently getting the alert that the roof is open, usually starts after going over a bump. So its something I need to address. If anyone has an ideas or knowledge on the roof mechanism and if theres something that can be adjusted itd be much appreciated. When the roof is closing, the passenger side is about an inch behind the drivers side.
  8. Ive ordered the stalk and the cowl for the steering wheel to retrofit cruise control. I believe I need to change the steering wheel control module too? Is this definitely the case? Does anyone now what part numbers are for the one I need? Any help much appreciated Its a 2005 1.8 Auto Cabrio
  9. Went back at the wiring again today. Figured out the wires ( I think) . Went with the thicker ones and matched them to the cables that would have had the brown loom on it. That left me with the 2 smaller cables one the new brown loom . I have sound from the tweeter on the dash. That left me with a Right Front negative and a left front positive from the new loom to match to the 2 wires left on the car loom, a yellow and a grey. if I connect either of the ones on the car side to either of the ones on the radio loom, I get sound from the front door (just the bass ) . If I touch the 2 worse on the car together with 1 on the radio loom it gets heavier so both working then. But if I try connecting the 2 on the car loom to the 2 on the radio it cuts out altogether from those speakers. so now I have the 2 wires on the car loom connected together with one of the ones on the radio loom and the other one on the radio loom taped up. All seems to be working from what I can tell.
  10. Last, but not least, this is the thing the speakers were (badly) wired through when I got the car. It's the foam covered yoke in the pic below the radio pinout picture.
  11. Anyone fitted one of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-A4-B6-00-04-AUDI-A4-B7-04-07-ARMREST-ASSEMBLY-SET-BLACK-TEXTILE/173212024707?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Picked one up a few weeks ago and started the process of fitting today. I googled a bit but the template I found is for the factory one I think. So if anyone has any tips or first hand experience that would be great. Ste
  12. Just on my wiring for the fronts. What I have on the brown plug for the radio is: Right Front positive pin is a brown cable with a blue stripe Right Front negative pin is a thick green cable with a blue strip and a thin green cable with a blue stripe Left Front positive pin is a thick brown cable with a green stripe and a thin brown cable with a green stripe Left Front negative pin is a blue cable with a yellow cable What I have on my loom in the car is 4 cables, that have to have originally had a brown plug for the front is: Black with a blue stripe Green with a yellow stripe Green with a blue stripe Purple with a yellow stripe The last 2 I have are on the loom that go to the long plug that has the rears and other stuff on a yellow cable A grey cable (actually think its more white when looking at it rather than in the pic)
  13. thatd be great , much appreciated. Cheers.
  14. Yeah, I had downloaded a pic of the sticker a couple of weeks ago when I started to try repair the wiring. My issue is that the wiring had been butchered by a previous owner. I was left with the original black plug (with 3 wires) and a mess of wires , some of which were routed through the foam covered thing in the pic. I got new connecters off ebay from a scrapper. I wired the longer black one that has the rears wired off it to its loom matching the colours. I was left with 2 extras on the car loom that didnt have matching ones on the long radio plug. Thats the pic above with the 2 wires. Then I was left with a loom on the car with 4 bare wires (other pic above) to match to the brown plug that came with 6 wires coming out of it in the 1st pic above. As you can see they are different colours and guages from the wires in the plug
  15. So got myself a radio. Stuck it in with the rapaired cabling I have done so far and all is well as far as the radio powering on, display shows on the dash too. Rear speakers working fine. Just the fronts to sort. Ive 6 wires on the car to match to the 6 from the front loom on the radio (the radio has the 6 wires on 4 pins in the middle 4). I can get sound from the front speakers by having a guess at the config, so I know they work. Just need to get it right. The dash tweeters worked fine but both were on regardless of which way I set the balance .
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